Chalk Stripe DB

[pchong]

Some pictures of a chalk stripe DB. I will try and have some pictures of me wearing the suit up later. With many thanks to guidance of Mr. Alden, I arrived at what I think is a very balanced coat.



Very small padding on the shoulders, and all work is done completely by hand.




Showing some detail on the belly of the lapel.

[Alias]

Looks very nice!

Can't wait to see pictures of you in the suit.

[masterfred]

Is this from Chan in Hong Kong? Nicely done.

[pchong]

yes, WW Chan in Hong Kong. Working with Patrick Chu was a pleasure. I was very specific in what I wanted and gave him a very long list of specifications (a result of many discussions on balance, handwork et al with malden), and he took it in his stride. The end product is very beautiful, methinks. I will try and get a photographer to shoot me wearing the suit this weekend...I hope.

[pchong]

Here is one picture...took a bunch over the weekend, will post more later.

[Concordia]

Very nice. Looks like a suit you could live in very comfortably and elegantly.

[whittaker]

pcchong

You wear that suit well. Very comfortable and elegantly accessorised. The sleeves look a tad short but it is perhaps your stance.

[jekarwoski]

OK it is late and I am bleary-eyed, but it looks as if the pocket flaps are tucked in
when you wore the suit for the photograph? Beautiful tie!

Quite a handsome suit. What color is the stripe? On my monitor it looks as if there's a slight lavender hue...

[Alias]

Great suit. I notice the pocket jetting is in line with the jacket's pattern.

[pchong]

Hello, thanks for your kind words.

Yes, wittaker, I do believe the sleeves a tad too short. It shows about an inch of linen now, and I would guess it would be borderline acceptable. I would prefer it slightly longer, and when I am in Hong Kong for the second fitting for my LL Cooper Tweed, I will have it lengthened, perhaps by half an inch or so. I have discussed this over the phone with Patrick Chu (the cutter at WW Chan) and he agrees. I may also let out the back a little, maybe half an inch too...to have slightly more drape on the rear shoulders.

Jekarwoski, The colour of the stripe, I guess is best described as a very light grey, or perhaps even white. The third photograph shows this actual colour quite well. I had the flaps tucked in when I took the photograph. The tie was purchased in Milan when the Lira was still going strong for as little as L25000, if I remember. It was from, then a very small shop, known as Andrew's Ties. I believe they have grown significantly since then, and they even have stores in Singapore now.

And yes, Alias, the pocket jetting is in line with the stripes - a la A&S. I find Patrick a joy to work with. I went to his shop with a long list of instructions, and he fulfilled every single one of them, including requests for a lot of handwork where he usually machines.

[jekarwoski]

Re: Andrew's Ties: I first saw them about 8 years ago in Rome, in the shopping area between Piazza di Spagna and the Corso. You are correct, they have grown significantly, with outposts in the US as well in New York and Philadelphia.

[pchong]

More pictures...







Speaking of Andrews Ties, I just did a quick count...I have a clean dozen...

[Costi]

Congratulations for your beautiful new suit, Mr. Chong!
If am not mistaken, you have chosen a raised button stance, in which none of the two working buttons seem to be at the natural waist: the upper one is above it and the lower one - below, so that they encompass the waist rather than "pinch" it (creating a more "adherent" line) - a trick I have used myself on a 6x2 DB blazer. The raised stance elongates, too (perhaps tucking in the flaps accentuates that effect, doesn't it?).
Even though the pictures don't seem to focus much on the trousers, may I ask if they are hanging from braces (as the DB coat will hardly ever come off anyway)? I like the straight front crease I see in your only tip-to-toes photograph.

[pchong]

Thanks Costi for your kind words. Regarding the trousers, they are held by braces, and cut with high back, fishtail design. Here are two pictures showing the trousers. Note the second picture, I had forgotten to smoothen the legs before shooting, as a result the left leg is ok, but the right one looks crumpled. In actual wearing, they hang very well. I had them cut so that there is bearly a break to the trousers, and the front crease is almost knife sharp.

[Costi]

The trousers hang quite well, indeed. I am convinced they are very comfortable, too - no tightness around the waist (as with a belt) and a perfect hang throughout the day, no matter how you move. The front looks particularly "clean" and the length is ideal, in my view (given the turnups, too). You might try to store them hanging from the hem, with a clip hanger, rather than folding them over a bar - it leaves a mark just above the knee.