Scoop-Rubinacci's new premises in London-first pictures

[Flaneur]

Very nice. As an acolyte and wearer of Neapolitan sartorial arts I am glad to see a bit of Naples brought up to Savile Row. I hope to be in London for a few days in about two weeks. I will try to drop in.

[aportnoy]

Mr. Alden,

A wonderful visual tour, thanks so much. So to confirm, this is the same Rubinacci as Mariano whose RTW I have purchased at Louis Boston? If not, is there any familial relationship between the two? I am assuming that there is a connection not only because of the same name, but all the Rubinacci in my closet has a definite English sensibility to it along the lines of Luciano Barbera. Who , if they ever brought tailoring in house, could also fit quite nicely on "The Row."

Best,

Andrew

[iammatt]

APortnoy-

It is indeed the same Mariano Rubinacci. The reports I have read indicate that he did not enjoy doing RTW at all, so he went back to his main business.

[aportnoy]

APortnoy-

It is indeed the same Mariano Rubinacci. The reports I have read indicate that he did not enjoy doing RTW at all, so he went back to his main business.

Iammatt,

Thanks for confirming that. I had always been quite enamored with his RTW and would certainly be interested in learning more about his bespoke. I have several tweeds which I find particularly wonderful.

[Guest]

I visited Rubinacci at Milano, a while ago, where I was told by Luca about the opening in London.
In the milanese laboratoy tgere where mainly milanese tailors and one neapolitan cutter, and many of them all including he cutter have worked for caraceni.
Prices were 3600-4000€ for suit.
Everything handmade including trousers, they do not even own a sewing machine.

[doccol91]

The store is beautiful. Anyone know if there is any plans for a New York branch?

[sleeper]

My company flat is round the corner from the store, and I like to drink at the pub opposite. So I had plenty of opportunity to observe this store, but sadly never had time to go in. I thought I recognised the coat in the window.

The ties are absolutely stunning, both the woven silk and the seven-folds. This is a real addition to the London sartorial scene - the shop just feels like it has a little more joy about it than any of its counterparts on or around the row.

[whittaker]

Like a moth to the flame, I was out wandering today and drawn to visit Rubinacci again.

This time I had a good look at the beautiful neck-ties. To my mind, one of the finest collection of ties in London at the moment.

The elder Mr. Rubinacci was at the store and proudly showed me some wonderful 14oz and 16oz flannel and whipcord fabrics for a project I am currently considering. He is passionate about tailoring and wore one of his "own" creations from 1993, a brown-umber tweed sports-coat which looked extremely comfortable.

At the store they also had these eye-catching cashmere scarves, patterned in unusual "ethic" patterns.

[sleeper]

In "ethic" styles, you say? Perhaps we should encourage some of the board's lawyers to buy them?

I share your views on the ties - simple stripes, on beautiful silk, seven-fold. There probably isn't anything like them in London.

Did you see any Glen Plaids in the heavier weights? I feel a double breasted suit coming on...

[whittaker]

In "ethic" styles, you say? Perhaps we should encourage some of the board's lawyers to buy them?

I share your views on the ties - simple stripes, on beautiful silk, seven-fold. There probably isn't anything like them in London.

Did you see any Glen Plaids in the heavier weights? I feel a double breasted suit coming on...

Damn spell-checker can't tell when I mean "ethnic".

After writing that post, I picked up a copy of this week's Country Life. Nick Foulkes in his 'Ginger Fop' column has also written an impassioned article about Rubinacci's ties.

I wasn't on the look out for Glen Plaids. There is a splendid grey plaid I examined. I wouldn't be surprised if they had a heavier Glen Plaid. Snr Rubinacci is clearly a devotee of heavier weights, which I had not expected from a Neapolitan tailor. He was more approving of 14oz and above than some Savile Row tailors I've talked to.

[iammatt]

The measurements are taken in London and all of the cutting and sewing is done in Naples. The London suits will be identical to the Naples ones unless the customer orders differently.

The Milan jackets are cut a touch leaner in the chest and do not have the Neapolitan front cut. Otherwise the jackets should be the same. Apperently, fewer jackets are ordered with a spalla camicia in Milan and London than in Naples, but that is probably to be expected.

There is a small amount of RTW available in the London store. It consists not of tailored clothing, but of wonderful wardrobe enhancements that are all very archival in style. Especially nice are the Ghurka shorts and the super-traditional London style raincoats. The ties are fantastic, as are the pocket squares.

[charle22]

...

The Milan jackets are cut a touch leaner in the chest and do not have the Neapolitan front cut. ...

Matt -

Can you explain the meaning of "leaner in the chest" as opposed to the "the Neapolitan front cut."

... There is a small amount of RTW available in the London store. It consists not of tailored clothing, but of wonderful wardrobe enhancements that are all very archival in style. Especially nice are the Ghurka shorts and the super-traditional London style raincoats. The ties are fantastic, as are the pocket squares.

LH's vintage shop has many treasures. Recently, I acquired a splendid overcoat. Indeed, the Rubinacci neckwear is a must have item - they're exquisite.

[charle22]

The store is beautiful. Anyone know if there is any plans for a New York branch?

I spoke with Mr. Gennaro Rubinacci and he suggested overexposure is undesiriable at the present. I thinks it's a thoughtful business strategy.

[iammatt]

...

The Milan jackets are cut a touch leaner in the chest and do not have the Neapolitan front cut. ...

Matt -

Can you explain the meaning of "leaner in the chest" as opposed to the "the Neapolitan front cut."

By leaner in the chest I just mean that the Naples jackets are quite draped in the chest while the Milan jackets are draped but not quite as full. Mr. Rubinacci said that this was not really purposeful, but that the tailors in Milan just tend to make a slightly leaner coat.

By "Neapolitan front cut" I mean thatt the Naples made coats are made so that the front dart goes all the wat to the bottom of the jacket. It does not stop at the pocket like most jackets. When I was with Mr. Rubinacci, there was also a tailor from the Milan shop present. They said that the customers in Milan generally prefer tehstandard dart while in Naples the front cut is the norm. The Naples style is a bit more noticeable, but I think that it is quite beautiful.

[charle22]

...

The Milan jackets are cut a touch leaner in the chest and do not have the Neapolitan front cut. ...

Matt -

Can you explain the meaning of "leaner in the chest" as opposed to the "the Neapolitan front cut."

By leaner in the chest I just mean that the Naples jackets are quite draped in the chest while the Milan jackets are draped but not quite as full. Mr. Rubinacci said that this was not really purposeful, but that the tailors in Milan just tend to make a slightly leaner coat.

By "Neapolitan front cut" I mean thatt the Naples made coats are made so that the front dart goes all the wat to the bottom of the jacket. It does not stop at the pocket like most jackets. When I was with Mr. Rubinacci, there was also a tailor from the Milan shop present. They said that the customers in Milan generally prefer tehstandard dart while in Naples the front cut is the norm. The Naples style is a bit more noticeable, but I think that it is quite beautiful.

Okay, so the darts, or the vertical seams found on the front side of coats, provide a point where material can be taken? When material is taken in, this results in a leaner look? Where as, undarted coats have more of a drape look, hence is fuller in appearance?

Correct me if my explaination is unprecise.