Odd Jackets

[Guest]

Help me pick the cloth pattern and colors for odd jackets.

I plan to build a core of 6 jackets in the next 1-2 years and want a core collection of classic cloth patterns, colors, texture, weight.

I want the core to comprise the classics, even the dandy - patterns/colors which I'll be happy with in 20 years and hopefully love to wear so much that they'll develop holes in the elbows which I'll then patch.

What's your advice?

[Guest]

Successfully putting together an outfit with odd coat is the pinnacle of accomplished dandyism, as Manton would suggest.

I would go for 4 coats for the Autumn/Winter; 2 coats for S/S.

Cloth selection: Choose a lightweight tweed for the A/W; if you can source handwoven tweed, all the better. Choose linen and linen blend for S/S.

Color selection: choose the natural colors that one finds in nature in the Autumn: browns, rust, greens, burnt orange, subdued shades of red. For S/S, I like creams and tobacco.

My suggestion for 6 core odd coats:

1. houndstooth; this in large pattern; I like black and white.
2. gun club check; again in tweed; I like a lighter overall color
3. herringbone; maroon
4. window pane; green with yellow check
5. linen: cream
6. linen blend: tobacco or chocolate brown


I think that something along these lines would provide fabulous possibilities.

Every coat color needs to work successfully with mid grey flannel trousers. If coat color selection passes that basic litmus test, then you are on track. After that, there are many choice of trouser colors, shirtings and patterns, vests, etc. etc.

For shoes you would want brown brogues and suede.

I think that you are set with choices along these classic lines. You could probably develop 50 interesting outfits from these 6 core coats.