Italian Bespoke Shirtmakers

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

tteplitzmd

Fri Feb 25, 2005 6:30 pm

Having failed to succeed in logging on to the Chat section (kept rejecting my password),
and in antiicipation of a summer trip to Perugia and Capri, I am interested to know of any smaller, less well konwn artisans in either Firenze or Napoli ?

Terry A. Teplitz
uppercase
Posts: 1769
Joined: Fri Feb 11, 2005 3:49 pm

Thu Apr 21, 2005 4:45 pm

You are lucky to be visiting Capri this summer. And I am also hoping to make a trip there as well.
I would, as well, like to learn of the bespoke ateliers to visit in Naples from our knowledgeable members.
alden
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Sun Apr 24, 2005 2:17 pm

Remember that Italy closes in August. You won't find very many artisans working during that month.
Guest

Wed Apr 27, 2005 11:23 am

I ordered my first shirt from Bugelli. I have to say, he was as nice as could be. The prices are high compared to custom shirts in the USA, though of course I am not counting workmanship, he wants 240 Euros for each shirt without VAT. The fabrics he sent were beautiful quality and color, but they weren't Sea Island Cotton (which means nothing to me), so the price is not because of the material. The minimum is 230 Euros without VAT, I am paying a surcharge for slightly thicker buttons than the standard. I sent him a shirt to copy and requested cream-colored, orange and pink solid swatches.
Cruz Diez
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Joined: Sat Feb 12, 2005 9:23 pm
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Wed Apr 27, 2005 2:32 pm

Dear Dr. Bresch,

Thank you for sharing with us the prices of Bugelli shirts. Do you know his philosophy as regards hand-stitching in shirts? I wonder, how much he would charge for high-price fabrics, say Riva 150 super twill , Bonfanti 180s....

Is the shirt you sent for copying bespoke? Please keep us posted on the results.

Cheers,
:D Miguel :D
uppercase
Posts: 1769
Joined: Fri Feb 11, 2005 3:49 pm

Wed Apr 27, 2005 4:42 pm

Congratulations on choosing Bugelli!

I have direct experience with Leonardo, having visited him in his workshop in Florence recently and having had one shirt made by him.

He is a sweet, excellent human being and craftsman.

You will be happy working with him however you have chosen the most difficult way of doing business with a bespoke maker, - i.e., through the mail and over the telephone.
Ofcourse that is all that is available to you since you aren't in Florence nor does Bugelli travel to your area.

In my limited bespoke experience, I do believe that it is gratifying both personally as well as in product result to work closely and in person with a maker. There's alot to be said for sharing leisurely time over an espresso while the master craftsmen takes his measure of your figure and considers how he will fit you to perfection.

Ideally, to my mind, it is a friendly relationship that should last many years.
Who was it that said that I only let my wife and my tailor touch me?!

When you have the opportunity, you owe it to yourself to make a trip to visit Bugelli in Florence as well as the many other talented craftsmen making bespoke suits, shoes, ties, jewelery, if only to briefly enter another era of elegance, timelessness , dedication and art of the true bespoke makers.
Guest

Wed Apr 27, 2005 8:20 pm

Uppercase, I am way ahead of you. I contemplate a trip to Florence in winter and obviously, if I am there, I will see him. I completely agree with you about the pleasure of lounging about with your tailor. The best shirtmaker in Philadelphia, Barton and Donaldson, does not invite this sort of thing (you would have to see his shop and meet him to know what I mean). Nor do any others. Centofanti is too busy to really invite lounging, but he is generous with his time.

By the way, in anticipation of the next question, I have heard nothing but good things about Barton and Donaldson, I just thought getting a shirt from Bugelli, seeing as how Alden speaks highly of him and he is a CERTIFIED ARTISAN, would be more fun.
uppercase
Posts: 1769
Joined: Fri Feb 11, 2005 3:49 pm

Thu Apr 28, 2005 4:03 am

Good for you!
You will love Florence and visiting Bugelli, et. al.
Guest

Thu Apr 28, 2005 1:04 pm

Bugelli is really an exquisite person to talk with.

I think that Bonfanti / Bugelli make a great team to realize wonderful shirts.
miumoi
Posts: 17
Joined: Wed Feb 16, 2005 9:28 pm
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Sun Jun 26, 2005 3:10 pm

...
Last edited by miumoi on Sun Aug 07, 2005 5:17 pm, edited 2 times in total.
uppercase
Posts: 1769
Joined: Fri Feb 11, 2005 3:49 pm

Mon Jun 27, 2005 4:45 pm

I don't see one nice fitting shirt there.
andreyb

Tue Jun 28, 2005 4:43 am

miumoi,

Could you, please, translate the text written by Mr Fukamo, on English?

Or, at least, could you made an outline of what he wrote?

Andrey
andreyb

Tue Jun 28, 2005 4:48 am

Sorry, translate the text in English.

Andrey

P.S.: Where is that "Edit" button?
miumoi
Posts: 17
Joined: Wed Feb 16, 2005 9:28 pm
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Mon Jul 04, 2005 6:04 pm

...
Last edited by miumoi on Sun Aug 07, 2005 5:17 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Guest

Mon Jul 04, 2005 11:08 pm

Cruz Diaz, I apologize I did not answer sooner:

1) I do not know Bugelli's philosophy regarding hand versus machine stitching because I do not have the ability to discern one from the other.

2) I have the shirts and they appear to fit well. I personally do not see how someone can be held responsible for a bad-fitting shirt if it is ordered from a distance, or if he does not have a chance to make any mistakes right. I do not think any of these artisans are magicians, just knowledgeable people who are very nice to deal with. Bugelli made a mistake and fixed it. If there are any faults in the fit of shirts, I am to blame because I sent him a shirt whose fit I suggested to be perfect (a Jantzen, whose measurements I determined when I ordered it).

3) What Bugelli CAN be held responsible for is service, taste and judgment, all of which are exemplary in my opinon. And the construction of the shirts, which is particularly beautiful.
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