Pin Fitting vs Chalk Fitting

[iammatt]

In reading Alex Kabbazz's client letter, I noticed that he made very clear that his fitting process is critiquing and pinning, rather than critiquing and marking with chalk. This parallels my experience that a chalked fitting is often less than successful. The pinning gives the tailor a chance to step away and look, as well as a chance for the client to meve around and see how things settle.

I have two questions on the subject. First, what are your thoughts about pinning vs chalking, and second, is it acceptable to ask a tailor who is marking with chalk to pin the garment instead?

Thanks.

[AlexanderKabbaz]

Tailors generally chalk rather than pin due to the cloth weight. With the heavier cloths, the pins will pull in more than the intended amount of reduction.

Besides, chalking - with all of the various different marks and their meanings - looks more esoteric than pinning.

Tailors' work may be a bit more mundane and boring than a shirtmaker's. After all, 90% of their lives are spent manipulating virtually invisible patterns woven of navy and charcoal. We, on the other hand, get to play with reds and oranges and royal blues and bold stripes and wild plaids.

Let them feel esoteric for that brief moment of a fitting. Remember, all they have to go back to when you leave is the dull sameness of a two-color world.

Now I'm going to hide in a dark corner of the basement while the arrows fly.

[gng8]

I will stay away from the tailor vs. shirtmaker comments and just observe that i have never had a shirt properly adjusted unless it is pinned. I prefer pinning pants and jackets again because it seems like the proper adjustment is made the first itme.

[TVD]

All tailors I have used in my life, and there are about seven (no, I am not promiscuous, just that the age profile of this profession is prone to cause some artrition - of those seven four are retired today), used both chalk and pins.

Minor adjustments can be chalked: taking in the waist by half an inch. lenghtening the sleeve etc.

Bigger changes will be pinned: any adjustments to balance, collar fit, pitch of sleeve etc.

The process has been remarkably similar, no matter what country or the age of the tailor.

[Leonard Logsdail]

You need both chalk and pins to fit properly. I certainly do. On the occassions I have forgotten to take to a fitting either my chalk or pins, it is quite difficult.

Pretty much I use the chalk for my benefit (after-all, not many client understanding the marks we make - and we don't always!!!) and the pins I use so te client can see what I am talking about. At least for shape in a coat, I do. Ripping the shoulders and pinning them to the body is, sometimes, essential. But again, this is more for me than the client.

Leonard