Can somebody explain this alteration to me? I have a jacket that stands away a bit at the collar, and my tailor recommended shortening the collar so that it would better hug my neck. Is this an alteration frought with danger, or is it a reasonable solution to the problem?
Any alternative suggestions would be most appreciated.
Shortening a collar/ Collar standing away
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Guest
The collar is a rather difficult area.
Usually at the first fitting, but sometimes again on the second and third, comes a moment cherished by many a bespoke tailor: Surprising the client, the collar that was merely basted in place is torn away in one fast move, scaring the novice and still bringing a smile to the face of the most jaded customer. The collar is then repinned in place, making sure that not only its height, but all the other angles match exactly the neck of the wearer. Only thus can one achieve the iron like grip that is called for.
If a jacket does not fit at the collar, this procedure must be in some way reperformed. Obviously, depending on the reason for the ill fit, there may not be enough material left in the collar to make the appropriate adjustments. This is an operation I would not entrust to any but the most experienced of tailors. Also, I cannot imagine that it would succeed unless the collar is detached completely.
TVD
Usually at the first fitting, but sometimes again on the second and third, comes a moment cherished by many a bespoke tailor: Surprising the client, the collar that was merely basted in place is torn away in one fast move, scaring the novice and still bringing a smile to the face of the most jaded customer. The collar is then repinned in place, making sure that not only its height, but all the other angles match exactly the neck of the wearer. Only thus can one achieve the iron like grip that is called for.
If a jacket does not fit at the collar, this procedure must be in some way reperformed. Obviously, depending on the reason for the ill fit, there may not be enough material left in the collar to make the appropriate adjustments. This is an operation I would not entrust to any but the most experienced of tailors. Also, I cannot imagine that it would succeed unless the collar is detached completely.
TVD
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Guest
More often than not, a collar that stands away at the neck is the result of a short back balance. Reducing the curcumference of the collar is a make-shift alteration that usually does not work in the long term.
leonard
leonard
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Guest
Leonard,
What is meant by "doesn't work in the long term?" Does an alteration or fix somehow change over time, perhaps with changes to the cloth or thread as a result of dry cleaning, etc ? It sounds as if some alterations are more subject to such anomalies.
What is meant by "doesn't work in the long term?" Does an alteration or fix somehow change over time, perhaps with changes to the cloth or thread as a result of dry cleaning, etc ? It sounds as if some alterations are more subject to such anomalies.
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Guest
Sometimes a quick-fix will work in the short term. Not always. But sometimes, with the alteration in duscussion, after a collar has been shortened ti can appear that it will sit closer to the neck, as it will. However, beware how the tailor actually puts the jacket on your shoulders. It is very easy for us to adjust a coat so that it looks good in front of a mirror, but afterwards it will, if the correct alteration was not done in the first place, revert back.
Leonard
Leonard
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Guest
Leonard-
I have seen two sorts of problems that are connected to this alteration.
First is the collar that actually stands away from the neck like it has a mind of its own. I do not know if you watch television, but the President on the show 24 is a prime example of this problem.
Second is the collar that simply appears a touch too wide and sloppy from behind. This almost looks like a shirt collar that is half a size too big.
I assume that shortening the collar will work marvelously on the second, and not much at all on the first. Is this fair?
I have seen two sorts of problems that are connected to this alteration.
First is the collar that actually stands away from the neck like it has a mind of its own. I do not know if you watch television, but the President on the show 24 is a prime example of this problem.
Second is the collar that simply appears a touch too wide and sloppy from behind. This almost looks like a shirt collar that is half a size too big.
I assume that shortening the collar will work marvelously on the second, and not much at all on the first. Is this fair?
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