Construction of lapel on a unlined coat

[pchong]

Hi All,

As I understand it, the small "countless" blind stitches under the lapel is what shapes and gives the lapel the body and belly. How is this achieved in an unlined coat?

Would the coat then have interlining on the chest piece as I would imagine the interling would not exist on the chest piece? What is the difference between this and the usual lined, floating canvass coat?

Thanks.

[manton]

If I understand your question correctly, then there is no difference. The canvas and those stitches are still there, covered by the facings. Lined and unlined coats will always have facings.

[pchong]

Thanks for the explaination, Manton.

[manton]

Here is a picture of the interior of a minimally lined coat:



You should be able to see the facings clearly. The canvas and all those stitches are under that cloth. The rest of the cloth you see is the inside of the coat's body. There is a little bit of lining in the shoulders, and the sleeves are fully lined. As to the interior seams, some are "turned" and some are "piped" with lining. There are strips of lining at the vents to help the vents flow smoothly and move with the body.

[pchong]

excellent. Thanks Manton...can you please show the coat as it is worn? Would you expect the drape to be different from a fully lined coat? Thanks very much again.

[manton]

This particular coat is quite soft: no horsehair, and a two-layer linen/flax canvas only. The cloth is fairly hard, so I doubt a lining would make much difference. It would make the coat hotter, though, which I wanted to avoid.

[Mark Seitelman]

Manton, is that your new Raphael suit?