Spring and Summer wardrobe

[alden]

Gentlemen

The Minimum wardobe list we created together on the yahoo site is posted below

At the time, a suggestion was made to try and break down the essential wardrobe list by seasons. I suggest that we start by thinking about what items we require specially for the warm days of late Spring and Summer. Dressing well in these periods is a true test of a wardrobe's substance. We have had some comments and advice from Tom Mahon on the subject.

What are your thoughts?

M Alden

The fnal edition of the minimum wardrobe is as follows:

5 city suits;
2 informal, weekend or country suits (eg.1 Tweed and 1 Linen);
3 tweed coats;
1 Navy DB Blazer;
1 Dinner jacket;
2 Summer weight unlined coats;
10 Casual trousers;
24 Boxer shorts;
85 neckties;
7 White dress shirts;
17 Color dress shirts;
12 Informal button down shirts (including Viyella);
36 pochettes (12 colored, 12 Irish linen, 12 au choix.);
8 Sweaters;
2 Vests; (for wear with Tweed coats.)
5 Pyjamas;
1 Bathrobe in wool;
1 Bathrobe in silk (optional);
1 Smoking or "Interior wear only" jacket (optional);
1 Barbour jacket;
7 Pairs of shoes (4 Oxford, 2 Elegant Brogues; 1 Double soled Brogues);
4 Overcoats (DB blue or gray, SB blue or gray; Tweed , Whipcord, or Covert);
1 Leather jacket (optional, should be Sheepskin, preferably made bespoke);
5 Hats (Trilby Brown and Gray; Fedora; Homburg in black, Panama);
4 Caps (3 tweed; 1 Linen);
3 pairs of gloves;
Assorted silk and cashmere scarves;
2 Umbrellas;
1 Cane or Walking stick.
Boxes of socks. "Fils D'Ecosse", Wool, and Linen.
Unlimited numbers of pairs of cufflinks and button covers.
2 timepieces: Leather band dress watch, and Sportswatch
Assorted braces and belts.

[tteplitzmd]

Any advice on where to obtain these summer linen, sportting caps? Not panama, etc.

Terry A. Teplitz

[alden]

Terry

I found it very hard, acyually impossible, to find a nicely cut cap period, but especially a nicely cut cap made of "quality" linen. So, I designed one and I am having it made in 440 gms Irish linen.

The caps are being made and will be available to LL members almost immediately. I should be posting pictures of the caps in the next few days. The model is known by the maker as the "Alden" model (no surprise) and I designed it to look like the caps worn by the Duke of Windsor. Please stay tuned for info and ordering advice.

[tteplitzmd]

Excellent. I look forward to seeing the model.

With regards to the recommended wardrobe and haberdashery, going back to my posting on the old Yahoo site, I added my vote for bespoke luggage. I returned from the Hotel Bell-Air in Los Angeles, several days ago. Their Hotel Magazine had an article on: "Bespoke Baggage."

The article detailed information on Swaine Adeney Brigg (in the old days Tanner Krolle made their luggage, now I don't know), their website is: www.swaineadeneybrigg.com. In addition they mentioned Schedoni whose website is www.schedoni.com, as well as Tannel Krolle, www.tannerkrolle.com

I own several tannerkrolle pieces, a briefcase, and my wife's jewelry box. The new Tanner Krolle is not as conservative in design as the old company (famillial squabbles I believe). But my own preference for luggage is: Globe-Trotter. I own two "one-off" Globe-Trotter pieces of luggage. I say "one-off" as that is the company's appelation. My interpretation is that the pieces are one of a kind, more like made to measure, than full custom, but I am the only one with my pieces. I highly recommend a look at their website which is: www.globe-trotterltd.com

By the way, my Tanner Krolle briefcase is monogrammed under the flap, so that my initials are not advertiised---the anti Louis Vuitton if you will.

Terry A. Teplitz, M.D.

Those wishing to see the original article and photos should request the Hotel Bel Air
Magazine, current issue from Mr. Carlos Lopes' Secretary, 310 472-1211

[Guest]

Well, this is my - minimal - list for a late spring/summer wardrobe:

Suits:
DB suit Kid Mohair Midnight Blue 10oz
Two button suit Fresco light grey 10oz
DB suit Linen off-white 14oz

Coats:
DB Navy Blazer Fresco 10oz
Two button coat Fresco Tan 10oz
1 Sahariana in Fresco 10oz

Trousers:
1 cotton drill tan 10oz
1 cotton drill navy 10oz
1 cotton drill kaki 10oz
1 fresco off-white 10oz
1 fresco tan 10oz
1 fresco light grey 10oz
1 linen tan 14oz

Shoes:
1 ankle boots beige suede shoes
1 mink suede shoes
1 spectator shoes

Hats:
1 panama
1 navy linen hat
1 off-white linen hat

Any comments or critics?

Giona.

[Will]

I would have a pair of light tan oxfords instead of the chukkas, if only because ankle boots are overly warm in summer.

[Guest]

Well, Chukka's are for spring. For summer we have oxford spectator.

[T4phage]

Well, Chukka's are for spring. For summer we have oxford spectator.

Of course a blue cordovan chukka, with a bevelled, bootmaker sole and 3 piece shoetree would be wonderful!

[Guest]

No, It's a light color suede chukka!!

[T4phage]

No, It's a light color suede chukka!!

No Giona, I was just giving you a suggestion for a nice chukka!

[Guest]

Indeed, that's a light color suede ...

[T4phage]

Indeed, that's a light color suede ...

Blue would be good! Really it would....

[alden]

Dug out the old Minimum wardrobe list.

I think its very compact...maybe too compact.

I wonder how we came up with 85 neckties...boy, those were the days. Remember, people used to wear ties.

Cheers

[belimad]

Putting two and two together, across the various threads (wardrobe help, Alden's 40, this thread), I came up with this little excel chart that has I think it is helping me thing how to “rationalize” or prioritize where I go next with comissions, both cloth as well as tailor/style wise. This will help me think what's next. Keep in mind right now this is mostly business oriented, thus the limited selection in tones.



Moreover, I find it exciting to realize how much I've been learning lately, and how I can now take concepts, suggestions or ideas I learn from Frank, John and Russell and carry them on to the next comission, or even to previous ones!

Today I took one of my Russell's suits to him and asked to make the same neck and front quarter alteration John Kent is making to the one he made for me - fun! Equally, Russell's next suit is taking several ideas, like shoulder length or neck height from Frank's.

[alden]

Moreover, I find it exciting to realize how much I've been learning lately, and how I can now take concepts, suggestions or ideas I learn from Frank, John and Russell and carry them on to the next comission, or even to previous ones!

Mariano

You’ve done the lion’s share of the work. Frank really defined your cut with his work. So pull back from the detail and let the tailors do their work.

Your new challenge, the most daunting, the one where most of your generation fail, is to learn how to wear your clothes well. Pretty simple thing to do, right? It isn’t. Just look around you or on all the blogs and forums to see one dressing disaster after another.

A wardrobe plan is an excellent idea, but you are ready to leave the mundane sphere of clothing with a step into the world of style. Tread softly.

Cheers