Assessing movement quality
This may seem like a very naive question, but how does one assess the quality of a movement? Obviously, its accuracy and precision must play a part, but that can't be the only consideration or we would all be wearing quartz watches. What other characteristics should be included in the evaluation? Beauty? Reliability? Serviceability? I suppose what I am getting at is this: all of my automatic watches have ETA movements. They seem to be relatively accurate and very reliable. But they're not much to look at, and they are a bit bulky (at least, the watches that they go into are a bit thick). What better is out there, and how would I know?
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Cantabrigian
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Most good watches contain ETA movements which have been heavily modified in terms of functionality (complications) added as well as in terms of finishing.
Mr. Alden says in assessing a pair of trousers its all about line, line, line. In assessing a high horology watch, its all about finish, finish, finish.
Strangely enough, accuracy almost never is a factor in assessing a high quality timepiece. First, it is kind of a given - to limits of a mechanical timepiece. Typically this means chronometer type specs +5s a day or -3s a day. But also because any modern mechanical timepiece should be able to easily meet these specifications. And if one wishes, most well designed and made movements are capable of +1s or less a day. This is accurate enough for most. The Railroad standard of yesteryear was 30s a week, which translates to approximately 4s a day.
Finish is how a timepiece is judged as high horology, or just plain. ETA movements are generally not well finished. They are robust, well made (mechanically), and depending on where the movement finally ends up in, not well finishied. There are exceptions, of course. And typically high horology movements are well finished...I will write a short article on what to look for in finish later. But atelier manufacturers like Philippe Dufour represent the other end. With mass produced brands like Patek, Lange, VC, occupying the exalted high ground just below the atelier manufactured pieces.
Another factor is how much in-house addition the manufacturer does on the movement before plunking it into a case with dial and hands. The more value addition, the better the predegree. In this count, the ETA scores poorly. Manufacturers like Patek, JLC, Glashutte Original, Lange score high.
Complications - additional functions over and above hour, minute, and perhaps seconds and date, are also another consideration. ETA movements are very robust, and the train can supply very high torque and thus suitable to drive complications. The UN Trilogy of complications are only achievable on an ETA because of this. The only other way is to purpose design the base movement, and Oeschelin (the genius designer who resides in UN) has no interest in that.
Hope this helps.
Strangely enough, accuracy almost never is a factor in assessing a high quality timepiece. First, it is kind of a given - to limits of a mechanical timepiece. Typically this means chronometer type specs +5s a day or -3s a day. But also because any modern mechanical timepiece should be able to easily meet these specifications. And if one wishes, most well designed and made movements are capable of +1s or less a day. This is accurate enough for most. The Railroad standard of yesteryear was 30s a week, which translates to approximately 4s a day.
Finish is how a timepiece is judged as high horology, or just plain. ETA movements are generally not well finished. They are robust, well made (mechanically), and depending on where the movement finally ends up in, not well finishied. There are exceptions, of course. And typically high horology movements are well finished...I will write a short article on what to look for in finish later. But atelier manufacturers like Philippe Dufour represent the other end. With mass produced brands like Patek, Lange, VC, occupying the exalted high ground just below the atelier manufactured pieces.
Another factor is how much in-house addition the manufacturer does on the movement before plunking it into a case with dial and hands. The more value addition, the better the predegree. In this count, the ETA scores poorly. Manufacturers like Patek, JLC, Glashutte Original, Lange score high.
Complications - additional functions over and above hour, minute, and perhaps seconds and date, are also another consideration. ETA movements are very robust, and the train can supply very high torque and thus suitable to drive complications. The UN Trilogy of complications are only achievable on an ETA because of this. The only other way is to purpose design the base movement, and Oeschelin (the genius designer who resides in UN) has no interest in that.
Hope this helps.
I wouldn't say that's entirely accurate. Accuracy is also incredibly important, which is why extremely advanced complications like a tourbillon are very expensive.
Hi Zipi, a tourbillon is expensive because of the virtuoso requirements of execution of traditional pieces. A tourbillon is not more accurate than a regular watch. In the old days, the tourbillon, execution required many hours of adjustment by a master, and beyond the abilities of younger watchmakers.
However, Progress changed that. The concept now lives in a company called STT - who is successful where Progress failed. With the Speake-Marin design, and input, the low cost flying tourbillon is a reality. And now, almost every watch house offers one.
However, Progress changed that. The concept now lives in a company called STT - who is successful where Progress failed. With the Speake-Marin design, and input, the low cost flying tourbillon is a reality. And now, almost every watch house offers one.
Dear Mr. Chong,
Would you please shed some light for me over what a tourbillon actually does in a watch. Like Zjpj, I was under the impression it was a device invented by Breguet (a respectable house with great tradition the name of which I am surprised not to have found among the first mentioned in this new inspired topc) meant to increase the accuracy of the movement which is otherwise inevitably subjected to Earth movement mechanics influence.
I look forward to learning a lot from in these matters where I am barely scratching the surface of the iceberg. Thank you, Mr. Chong and other knowledgeable members who kindly take the time to educate the unenlightened in the complications (sic) of horology.
Would you please shed some light for me over what a tourbillon actually does in a watch. Like Zjpj, I was under the impression it was a device invented by Breguet (a respectable house with great tradition the name of which I am surprised not to have found among the first mentioned in this new inspired topc) meant to increase the accuracy of the movement which is otherwise inevitably subjected to Earth movement mechanics influence.
I look forward to learning a lot from in these matters where I am barely scratching the surface of the iceberg. Thank you, Mr. Chong and other knowledgeable members who kindly take the time to educate the unenlightened in the complications (sic) of horology.
Errata (posts being uneditable):
read "Earth gravity's influence" instead of "Earth movement mechanics influence".
read "Earth gravity's influence" instead of "Earth movement mechanics influence".
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lancepryor
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I believe the tourbillon was designed to cancel out the influence of gravity on the accuracy of the watch. By having the tourbillon cage rotate 360 degrees, gravity essentially is cancelled out in terms of its influence on the watch's timing/operation. Note, however, that the real value of the tourbillon is in pocket watches, because the position in which the watch is worn (i.e. hung from a pendant or kept in a pocket) keeps the watch in just one basic position all day, so gravity will affect the timing of the watch. On a wristwatch, which moves through a wide variety of positions as you move your arms -- walking, reaching for things, eating, etc -- the watch is inherently less affected by the deleterious effects of gravity. Hence, the tourbillon in a wristwatch is more a function of the pursuit of horological artistry than it is of functional value. If you notice, virtually all manufacturers of a tourbillon watch have the tourbillon visible through the face, so that the owner (and others) can notice and/or admire its presence and operation. IFAIK, for years the only maker of a tourbillon to not display it was Patek, which in its understated way had it hidden behind the face -- the Patek Tourbillon Minute Repeater (the model 69?) is a beautiful and lust-worthy watch, in my opinion. When I win the lottery, I just may buy one!
Thanks, Lance is correct. The tourbillon is a devise which helps the hairspring of the watch to overcome the effects of gravity by rotating the entire escapement, thus equalizing the errors caused by position of the pocket watch as it sits inside its owners pocket. A wristwatch's life is somewhat different. It encounters a variety of positions, and thus its owner's wrist act to equalize the same effect.
The tourbillon is a device attributed to Abraham Louis Breguet, who invented most of what we see in modern watches. Do not confuse AL Breguet the person with the present company bearing his name - AL was an inventive watchmaker in his day, Breguet is part of the giant Swatch Group and is a product of the genius of Nick Hayek. I am not taking anything away from Hayek and his brilliance in reengineering the Swiss watchmaking industry, but suffice it to say, that the present day Breguet is not finished well.
Patek tourbillons have never been exposed via a cutout on the dial to display the carriage, but they are certainly not the only one. I own a JLC Reverso tourbillon, which shows a plain ruthinium dial on the regular side, and as the Reverso allows one to flip the watch over, reveals a striking movement with the tourbillon which can be admired under the glass. I will put up some pictures of this watch tomorrow. I like the Patek 5101 10 day tourbillon as well...shall we say, the design and finish is sublime.
BTW, a ground up chronograph, especially a split second complication is much more difficult in execution requirements than a tourbillon. Of course, a Grande Sonnerie ranks amongst the most complicated, not counting the stacked on layers of what is known within the trade as the wedding cake complication, and outside to customers as the grand complication.
The tourbillon is a device attributed to Abraham Louis Breguet, who invented most of what we see in modern watches. Do not confuse AL Breguet the person with the present company bearing his name - AL was an inventive watchmaker in his day, Breguet is part of the giant Swatch Group and is a product of the genius of Nick Hayek. I am not taking anything away from Hayek and his brilliance in reengineering the Swiss watchmaking industry, but suffice it to say, that the present day Breguet is not finished well.
Patek tourbillons have never been exposed via a cutout on the dial to display the carriage, but they are certainly not the only one. I own a JLC Reverso tourbillon, which shows a plain ruthinium dial on the regular side, and as the Reverso allows one to flip the watch over, reveals a striking movement with the tourbillon which can be admired under the glass. I will put up some pictures of this watch tomorrow. I like the Patek 5101 10 day tourbillon as well...shall we say, the design and finish is sublime.
BTW, a ground up chronograph, especially a split second complication is much more difficult in execution requirements than a tourbillon. Of course, a Grande Sonnerie ranks amongst the most complicated, not counting the stacked on layers of what is known within the trade as the wedding cake complication, and outside to customers as the grand complication.
As promised, some pictures of the JLC Platinum 2, tourbillon wristwatch. First a picture on my wrist, with the case flipped over, to reveal the movement and the tourbillon.
Detail of the bridge
Detail showing the tourbillon
Detail of the bridge
Detail showing the tourbillon
Thank you, pchong and others, for your replies. Pchong, I would be very interested in reading whatever you are willing to write about finishing quality. I confess that I'm lost.
Here is an example of extremely fine finishing:
Note the 3 arrows marked with numbers:
1. We start with Arrow 3, which shows the edges of the bridge which is cut at an angle and the edges polished. This execution is exceptional because of the smooth-ness of the angle, the high polish achieved. This work is known as anglage, and quality of this level can only be done by hand.
2. Arrow 1 shows a very well executed inward facing point on a bridge. The inward pointing nature would mean that the point can only be executed by hand. Note that the point is sharp (the sharper the point, the more difficult the execution). Note the fine polishing on the edges, known as anglage.
3. Arrow 2 shows the wheels of the mainspring barrel. Typically these are cut in accordance to a parabolic pattern so the teeth mash well and smoothly to its partner wheel. But in this example, the teeth are cut to the correct shape and depth, and the edges of the teeth are also polished.
The watch featured above is a Decimal Repeater, made by Kari Voultilienen. The base movement is a turn of the century Jaeger LeCoultre minute repeater, and Kari had it gutted, modified to strike decimals, and finished.
Note the 3 arrows marked with numbers:
1. We start with Arrow 3, which shows the edges of the bridge which is cut at an angle and the edges polished. This execution is exceptional because of the smooth-ness of the angle, the high polish achieved. This work is known as anglage, and quality of this level can only be done by hand.
2. Arrow 1 shows a very well executed inward facing point on a bridge. The inward pointing nature would mean that the point can only be executed by hand. Note that the point is sharp (the sharper the point, the more difficult the execution). Note the fine polishing on the edges, known as anglage.
3. Arrow 2 shows the wheels of the mainspring barrel. Typically these are cut in accordance to a parabolic pattern so the teeth mash well and smoothly to its partner wheel. But in this example, the teeth are cut to the correct shape and depth, and the edges of the teeth are also polished.
The watch featured above is a Decimal Repeater, made by Kari Voultilienen. The base movement is a turn of the century Jaeger LeCoultre minute repeater, and Kari had it gutted, modified to strike decimals, and finished.
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