Spanish Jacket

[manicturncoat]

On a recent trip to Spain I noticed that many Spanish men wear a sort of casual unlined shirt jacket usually made of a heavy wool fabric or tweed. When I asked, someone told me it was called a Teba, named after the Count of Teba who popularized this jacket in the 1940's. I was wondering if any forum members were familiar with this jacket and where it can be found outside of Spain.

[whittaker]

Beretta's outlet in St. James has cashmere sports coats that sound similar in design. They are more shirt than coat, unlined and rather interesting. The maker is Maremanna. Perhaps they are more urban and less rustic than your Teba.

[manicturncoat]

What you are referring to is a typical Tuscan hunting jacket made out of corduroy or very heavy moleskin(fustagno), this type of jacket is called a "Maremmana".
Now that we are in Tuscany there is another, greater, traditional Tuscan garment, the Casentino overcoat. It is made out of a locally woven wool cloth called "panno Casentino". It comes in either green or orange and the surface is very rough, looks very worn and has has little hair balls all over it. The overcoat is DB with a martingale and the collar is lined with fox fur. The photo below shows a typical Casentino overcoat,

[whittaker]

What you are referring to is a typical Tuscan hunting jacket made out of corduroy or very heavy moleskin(fustagno), this type of jacket is called a "Maremmana".

Thank you. Interesting to understand the context. The coats at Beretta are, I would guess, an urban version. Wearing the delicate cashmere whilst shooting would be damaging for both shoulder and coat.

[manicturncoat]

Excuse me, I misread your original post, you stated the maker as "Maremmana" when I read it as a "Maremmana" type jacket. The Beretta item may very well be something similar to the Teba, Thank you.

[alden]

I think there is a bit of confusion regarding three very different kinds of sporting coats: the Spanish Teba, and the Tuscan Maremmana and Casentino.

The roots of the Teba jacket come from the traditional hunting jackets worn by the Spanish aristocracy. Today, elegant citizens of Madrid can be seen wearing these unlined, giacca camica like garments in the traditional hunting green or often in navy blue. The jacket is normally a 3 button front with patch pockets and one working button on the sleeve. It can also be made with a swing back for shooting enthusiasts. It is for all intents and purposes the Spanish equivalent of the Neapolitan giacca camicia Since Spain ruled Naples and Sicily for centuries, it is anyone’s guess who influenced who in the design of unlined coats, but suffice it to say that they are very similar.

The giacca maremmana is a traditional Tuscan jacket worn by ranchers. The style is suited to work on horseback as the front patch pockets are large and easily accessible.



The Maremma style jacket is normally made of very heavy corduroy or high twist wools.

The capotto casentino, a picture of which is shown above from a theater representation of the life of Giacomo Puccini, is made from Il panno di Casentino
For seven centuries in the environs of the city of Casentino in Tuscany the “heavy cloth of Casentino” has been sold by Florentine merchants.

To learn more about this traditional cloth please read the presentation here:

http://www.tessilnova.com/e_commerce/index.jsp



The Casentino is made into an Ulster-like overcoat, normally with a fox collar. The very fortunate owner of this Bespoke Casentino coat chose the traditional orange of Tuscany with the traditional forest green lining. This overcoat was made virtually without padding. The shoulders are completely natural. This is a situation where the word capo lavoro , "Masterpiece" , is truly justified.

[manicturncoat]

One of the characteristics of the "Giacca Maremmana" is a large game pocket in the back, in fact, the two pockets on the front and the large back pocket is one contiguous patch that goes all the way around the jacket.
For those who visit Maremma there is a sartoria in Castagneto Carducci that specializes in Tuscan country clothes called Morganti.

[mathew]

The collar on this particular Casentino overcoat is Russian Fox. There is no shoulder padding unless you consider the chestpiece extending to the shoulder seam to function as padding.

[whittaker]

Excuse me, I misread your original post, you stated the maker as "Maremmana" when I read it as a "Maremmana" type jacket.

On the contrary, I heard the term "Maremmana" mentioned in Beretta and assumed it to be the maker. The coats in Beretta are indeed characteristic of the "Giacca Maremmana" but rather more urbanised. Not only due to the cashmere but also less rustic pockets.

The picture above of the Maremma style jacket illustrates the original design and looks better than the Beretta version.

[Guest]

Here is a web site devoted to a collection of traditional Tuscan garments. It requires some fooling-with but has lots of interesting pictures and historical essays.

http://www.capalbio.com/English/index.htm

I would be very curious who these people are: "Global World Foundation," "The Clothing Company."

[manicturncoat]

Here is a web site devoted to a collection of traditional Tuscan garments. It requires some fooling-with but has lots of interesting pictures and historical essays.

http://www.capalbio.com/English/index.htm

I would be very curious who these people are: "Global World Foundation," "The Clothing Company."

I bought a corduroy "Marammana" jacket 5/6 years ago from this very maker at the Principe store in Florence. It was the real thing in terms of style but very mediocre in terms of quality. Unless things have improved in the meantime there is better to be had.

I do not know anything about "Global World foundation" but the people who produce these jackets are nowhere near Maremma but somewhere in the Veneto region.

[Guest]

That said, can anyone post a picture of a first-quality maremanna jacket? Didn't Alden write that he knew of an excellent specialist in bespoke maremmana jackets (in Italy)?

[DD MacDonald]

On a recent trip to Spain I noticed that many Spanish men wear a sort of casual unlined shirt jacket usually made of a heavy wool fabric or tweed.

I was in Spain a few years back and clearly recall these jackets, thought what I remember were jackets rather than overcoats. Mostly in a heavy blue wool, they were Spain's version of America's universal blue sack blazer. The common details were a single cuff button and patch pockets. The most notable detail, which I did not see referenced above, was the lapel which was neither notched nor peaked. I do not have the vocabulary here, but it was a notched type in which the "notch" was infilled or a "peak" in which the point of the bottom section of the lapel did not pass the plane of the top section or "peak" out. It was distinctive and colorful in the same way as Austrian details. When not in a suit, it was the most common jacket style that I saw.

If no one understands, please make a comment and I'll see if I can find a picture.

DDM

[Guest]

Alden mentioned bespoke aritisans who specialized in country wear. Any hints as to their identity? they are discussed here:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/thelondon ... ssage/1009