Gianni Agnelli

[manicturncoat]

I was on the travelling by plane from Paris to Turin several years ago and on the bus that takes you from the terminal to the aircraft I spotted a gentleman that seemed very well dressed to me. I can't remember exactly what he was wearing but it was along the lines of grey flannel pants, tweed jacket and suede shoes, and all very well put together. When the bus takes off his arm goes up to reach the handle and... there is the watch over the cuff. He stuck in my mind and sometime later I saw his photograph somewhere and I immediately made the connection...Luciano Barbera, another victim of the terrible metal allergy.

[uppercase]

I tell you, this metal allergy is making the rounds.

[Richard3]

Well, the fellow must be wearing a ring made of rubber.

[Incroyable]

How imperfectly hideous.

I take an intense dislike to those oversized watches.

[uppercase]

Ah....but what an absolutely beautiful suit!

No?

[Connemara]

Woah! That suit is mind-blowing! The lapel roll is something to be admired.

Take note: one sleeve button is unfastened...an affectation that I've never been able to really appreciate.

[RWS]

I quite like the roll (though a bit higher than I'd prefer). But why would a presumably meticulous dresser not button the top button of his waistcoat?

[uppercase]

Perfection comes in a bit of creative disruption and elegant disarray.

This gentlemen is capable of dressing in the most sophisticated, exquisite fashion.

But that would be too contrived.


Although he is simply dressed - white shirt, subdued tie, plain white handkerchief in a straight fold, the cut and composition of his coat is such that his appearance is very dramatic.

The fabric is conservative, but striking, broad striped light oatmeal herringbone in a Winter suit.

Forget the watch style for a minute and the watch straps on the cuff of the shirt; that is a bit of an Italian conceit and not to many peoples' taste.


But even as simply as he is dressed, the dress borders on uncomfortable self consciousness given the beauty of the suit, its drama, and the bearing of its wearer.

The suit is certainly striking and brilliantly composed and any more attention to detail would topple this illusion of the perfect suit and personal style.

The other simple explanation is that he has put on a few pounds during the holidays and can't button either his vest or his coat.

[manicturncoat]

I, quite frankly, do not see any sophistication in this man's dress. Given that the fabric is beautiful, the white shirt and paisley tie works and construction of the jacket seems to be first rate, I find whole look rather garish. For instance I have a personal distaste for what seems, at least from the angle of the photo, to be a pronounced "rollino" in the shoulder which creates the effect described in Italy as, "troppo messa", literally meaning, "fixed there" as well as a pronounced rope, also known in Italy, "la sigaretta"(the cigarette), both of these terms are not compliments, not to mention the unbottoned sleeve another of my pet peeves.

[Incroyable]

Does anyone else feel the man's overall appearance somewhat contrived?

[DD MacDonald]

Other than being puffed up in the Karl Lagerfeld/peacock sort of way he doesn't look any more contrived than any dude in a suit. Its that nepoleonic hand at the waist looking to tuck into the waistcoat that catches my attention.

Now, let's put the watch under the cuff, button the top point of his waiscoat, and talk about the open cuff button and we are getting organized.

The suiting is a great design that is not overplayed or betrayed by a (loud) check shirt and a loud tie.
DDM

[Marcus Bergman]

I'm not impressed. The button stance seems too high, affecting the roll of the lapel. Also, the studied conservative matching of the tie, suit, pocket square, and shirt seems to indicate some affectation on part of the wearer. As far removed from the Prince of Wales as one might go...

The watch is another issue. I, for one, will advocate a pocket watch with the three-piece tweed of this nature -- specifically because this look conveys a rural manner that has nothing to do with wristwatches. As an alternative, I'd prefer no watch at all. After all, there are clocks in most ports, stations -- and airports.


Cheers,

Marcus Bergman

[BenedictSpinola]

I really like the tweed suit and the shirt collar. Whilst I don't really care for the "polso orologio" cuff, I think this person is well - albeit slightly flamboyantly - dressed.

[ThomasG]

Now, let's put the watch under the cuff, button the top point of his waiscoat, and talk about the open cuff button and we are getting organized.

DDM

Once I finally pulled my focus away from the watch, which was not an easy task, I did notice that he had a button problem. Notice how a single affectation can eviscerate a stupendous piece of tailoring

[countdemoney]

I think that suit is wonderful. I'm guessing the top vest button is undone to help the tie keep that wonderful arch. At least from the photo, it looks as though buttoning the top button would flatten the tie out. There's a definite swagger in how he dresses and carries himself here. I don't know him so I couldn't say if it is confidence or arrogance.

I do have one question. I remember hearing that the pocket square should be angled to go towards the shoulder yet his is angled inwards. Is my memory correct? I think that it works in this photo. Or maybe I just love that wonderfil suit cloth too much.