dinner coat lining

[Guest]

I could not find whether (or rather where) it had been discussed before, so have to start a new topic with the question:
What is the correct (or acceptable) colour of the lining in the dinner coat (tuxedo)?
I want to order a new one and am toying with the idea of having something different than the ordinary black...
Thanks for all your comments.

[Guest]

I assume you are talking about a standard, year-round black one. The lining on mine is black, and if I had to do it all over again, I would still choose black. The black and white color scheme in black tie is important, and while you can introduce color with good effect, it should be done carefully. Having a flash of color in your lining starts you off in a direction you may not want and limits your ability to add it elsewhere.

I might consider being more flexible if I had a shawl collared DB dinner jacket made in a shade of summer white or blue or camel. They might take an interesting contrast colored lining. But that is now talking fantasy - my lifestyle does not support such a wardrobe.

Someone will no doubt say that the lining color doesn't matter because a gentlemen never removes his coat. They will be correct about the latter in theory if not in practice. They will still be wrong about the former

dopey

[Guest]

Thank you very much for your thoughts, Dopey! Yes I'll be ordering a standard SB peak lapel grosgrain black one. I am certain about all except lining and vents. My current one has no, but I do prefer doublevented in all my coats.
Further views welcome!
Andrei

[Guest]

Mine has double vents. In theory a well cut coat with no vents is sleeker and perhaps more correct. No matter the theory, you are likely to put your hands in your pockets and side vents will hold the line better in that case (unless you are a Windsor, in which case one hand goes in your coat pocket, mooting the issue). Side vents are not incorrect and you should not feel bad if you get them.

dopey

[Guest]

I've another view, Andrei.

My favorite dinner jacket is lined in black (a bit of interest in the diapering of the silk, but black nonetheless) and is unvented. Were I to redo it (and I must soon: it's nearly forty years old, a testament to the staying power of Savile Row workmanship), I'd still have it unvented (though I long considered myself foolish for that, I've come to prefer what dopey rightly describes as sleekness). But I'd have only the body lined in black: lining the sleeves in white will help keep one's shirt cuffs from looking dingy, while continuing the strict convention of wearing only black and white at night.

Robb Storm

[Guest]

Robb:

Did you mean sleeve linings in white, instead of the striped white lining usually used for sleeves? Or did you mean your current dinner jacket has its sleeves lined in black silk?

dopey

[Guest]

'Sorry, dopey; I wasn't very clear, was I?

My current dinner jackets are completely lined in solid black. When I have (well, I hope to have) a new shawl-collar made, I'd keep the solid black lining, except in the sleeves: I'd have these lined in solid white, no striping (which I've never much liked, though more than one day suit has it): that pure white sleeve-lining reflects (dully, 'tis true, but reflects nonetheless) on the white shirt and enhances the brilliance of the white linen. Perhaps over-fastidiousness causes me to see a bit of grayness in shirt linen surrounded instead by a black sleeve-lining.

Robb Storm

[Guest]

I'll post as the contrarian to black linings here. I have a double breasted job with a dark lilac lining that always makes me smile.

DDM

[Guest]

I have black lining in the body and white in the sleeves. I think it does the best job in not calling attention to itself. I agree that black sleeve lining can make the cuffs loo dingy. White does a better job. Ivory is also nice as it really goes away to the eye.

Matt

[Guest]

Black lining is appropriate.

Spinola

[Guest]

The worst I have seen is bright red peaking out from the side vents . . .

[Guest]

'Reminds me of the red-silk-lined black opera cloak I once saw; one could imagine its wearer a toreador out on the town!

Robb Storm

[Guest]

Thank you, gentlemen!
I'll be meeting my tailors tomorrow and would ask for black lining with snow white in the sleeves - this combination seems to be the one!
Andrei

[Guest]

Hi, again!
Since I began this thread - a new wild question: is it acceptable to have edge-trimmed turnback cuffs on the dinner coat?
Andrei

[Guest]

Hi, again!
Since I began this thread - a new wild question: is it acceptable to have edge-trimmed turnback cuffs on the dinner coat?
Andrei

Today, it would be very dandyish and it is not at all common although I suppose anything might be seen at the Academy Awards.

I am fairly certain that in the early days of the dinner jacket, such cuff treatment was not unheard of. Perhaps I am thinking of tails or morning coats, but I am sure I have seen examples of cuffed formal or semi-formal sleeves somewhere in one of those three categories.

It would seem to me that if you were going to have any visible facings on the turn back cuffs, full satin or grosgrain linings would be preferable to an edge-only treatment. Unless, of course, the lapels carried only an edge treatment.

I bet Manton or Tutee could find some references for us.

BTW, unless you have or plan to have several dinner suits made, I would not do this. Dandy touches are fine at some events but less so at others. Like many odd items, I would be thrilled to own an example of a cuffed and faced dinner jacket but have a hard time justifying the expense and closet space for what would be only the fourth or fifth receiver on the depth chart.