On this forum, I have found that some people focus on details that aren't exactly essential for the daily wear-ability of a garment. Things like where to place a buttoniere loop on the back of a lapel, the drape of fabrics differing by a half ounce, or unlined sleeves will not have as large of an effect as how well an armhole is cut.
Everyone should know the importance of high cut and rounded arm holes/ armscyes. They are integral to comfort and mobility. Seeing as RTW suits usually have low-cut amrholes, bespoke may be the only way to obtain the correct fitting arm holes.
Please perform this "Matt Deckard Test" on all of your jackets to test their fit.
A vintage well-fitted jacket should look like this:
Notice how the jacket doesn't move with the arms. Please also note the swoop at the back of the armhole.
Now, a modern stylish, but poorly fitted jacket:
Notice the jacket riding up and the flaring lapels. Also, please note the "chicken wing" effect on the back of the jacket armhole.
Perhaps you are thinking "Who the hell stands around with their arms out like that?"
This is a simple demonstration of how a armhole can inhibit or help mobility. Ultimately, the armholes will affect the comfortof performing things like driving your car, grabbing and reaching for things, and maybe even ballroom dancing.
Try the arm test on any of your jackets. A large armhole may allow a jacket to come on and over easier, but the comfort of the jacket while being worn will be sacrificed.
Help rid modern clothing of this sartorial pandemic.
Thanks, Fedora Lounge and Matt Deckard for enlightening me and many others about the importance of armholes.
Ray
EDIT: Please see Matt Deckard's previous thread for more on armholes.
http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/vie ... ht=armhole
