Seeking an Opinion: Vest for Silk Suit

[Mark Seitelman]

I am about to commission a beige silk suit for the summer, and since I like three piece suits my Oxxford salesman has suggested a vest. My first reaction was that it would be too warm, but he said that it would not because silk is so tihin. He feels that it would add a stylish note.

What do you esteemed gentlemen think? Would a vest be out of character since silk is a summer suiting?

A related question is whether it is worthwhile to purchase an extra set of trousers? Is silk especially fragile? I do not have enough experience with silk suitings to know if the extra trousers are necessary.

Thank you in advance for your responses.

[Guest]

I do not want to suggest to you; better, I will tell what I do: I always - always - do extra trousers for a bespoke suit; not matter which fabric, linen, flannel, tweed, worsted ... and I always do a vest with a 2 button or 3 button suit; not with a DB; I then can choose to dress it or not, changing the style of the suite and allowing for a little bit of flexibility. I always can use the vest to extend the season of the suit, using it when it is a bit colder.

Giona.

[alden]

I would always suggest making two trousers whatever the material. I would prefer seeing you with two trousers for a silk suit rather than a vest.

If you really mean Summer use, then I would skip the vest. I don't know what Summers are like in NY, but in Paris and Italy they are very hot and steamy. I can't imagine the vest will get much use...but if you can stand the heat it would be very elegant.

[Mark Seitelman]

I was wondering if silk were more prone to wear than other summer cloths, such as cotton, linen, or seersucker?

I have ordered second trousers for various suits, but I am not totally convinced of the usefulness because I find that coats age just as fast as the pants. I have not worn out trousers in 20 years.

I would order a second trouser for a flannel suit. However, I recently foregoed one for a 19 oz. serge suit.

Therefore, is silk especially fragile? Would the pants wear out much faster than the coat?

Again, thank you, gentlemen.

[Mark Seitelman]

A further issue for your consideration: styling.

[alden]

Silk is pretty resilient. I have two trousers in silk purchased in 1974 still functioning well. But they are worn maybe fifteen times a year and the weave of the silk is very tight.

Its hard to say how the silk will wear without seeing it. If the weave is loose, beware. If it is heavyweight silk that is tightly woven it should wear well, given proper maintenance and less than intensive use. I would still want a second trouser, one that you might use as an odd trouser later, beige silk trouser is useful.

[manton]

I agree about skipping the vest. Unless you really do not feel the heat at all, you will almost certainly not get any use out of it, given the season when that silk suit is likely to be worn.

[cuffthis]

I would also recommend two pairs of trousers over a vest for your silk suit.

I would also recommend seriously thinking when and where you intent to wear your silk suit. I had one made awhile back and I wear it only 1-2 times per year, as it is never seems the right time to wear it.

This ended up being a rather expensive item of clothing from a per wear perspective.

[Mark Seitelman]

Thank you for your responses.

Based on your responses I am re-considering the vest.

I appreciate Tom's concerns as to where and when the suit would be worn. I would wear it to the office. Since it's my firm and since my clients like me to dress as the lord of the manor, they will not think that the silk suit is too dressy.

Thanks and cheers.

[Guest]

Well, you know, my opinion is out of the choir, as I always like vests. Anyway the two trousers can be useful as they can used in several outfits, of course depending on style and fabric. Maybe you can have one with a fish-tail high back and no pockets, and the other one with belt loops, for example.

Giona.

[Leonard Logsdail]

My first response to a client requesting a vest is : do you think you will wear it or will it stay in your closet? Mostly "in the closet" is the answer. If you think you will wear it, then buy it. Personally I see no need for a vest for NY summer, particularly in silk. It may be a natural fibre, but it does not allow the air to circulate through it as other fabrics do, making it a warmer fabric to wear.

Leonard

[Mark Seitelman]

Leonard, thanks for your practical comment.

I left a private message for you.

Mark
212-962-2626

[Etutee]

Dear Mark,
Good to hear that you are making a tasteful purchase. Very nice Indeed. It is not every day that I get to hear about such choices in sartorial matters. Now…since I saw the post I thought I should reply…but then thought others would provide you with ample info…and in the end I decided to throw in my humble $.02. (Found something that maybe of interest to you).

Primary reason was that I am a hardcore linen fanatic for summer….maybe Gabardine, so it is very hard for me to give you a non-biased advice on this. Nevertheless since you asked…I will try.

So here it is. From mid-summer 34’ (maybe July or August) a beautiful natural shade / beige silk suit.





Now, as always details are everything…so here they are. Starting from the top... hat is leghorn with puggaree band of white silk, pointed India madras bow-tie, red silk pocket square that is of Persian motif. Shirt is (surprisingly) white with soft point (lounge) collar and light weight lisle socks (note the pattern). Shoes are brown buck with black varnished leather soles and heels. Note the light colored flat laces.*

*These shoes were a personal favorite of Fred Astaire (same laces scheme) and socks were a favorite of Duke himself.

The suit it self is a 3-button notch lapel model done in light weight shantung silk (but can perfectly be of linen also) with the natural tan color. The suit is cut along the easy-soft lines which are imperative in summer suits. This “easy-comfort” effect of the cut is further enhanced by the presence of patch pockets (breast pocket is also patch). Note the 2 buttons on the jacket sleeve. Also, even though the pants are “full” in cut, they are such that if the gent was standing…you will only see a minimal break (or none). Gentlemen, carefully observe the color scheme of this entire outfit…note how the colors are throughout consistent…white, yellow, tan, brown and finally a hint of red. Marvelous!

Now that said, in a modern day rendition of this suit you may dispense the hat and bow (in substitution of a regular tie or without). An alternative on shoes would be the 2-tone combination shoes if such is your style (no white calf please). Moreover, if you prefer somewhat of more formal note… you may consider a suit in 3-button notch lapel (maybe even peak lapel) with jetted pockets and side vents.

Personally, I envision this suit also with patch pockets (sorry horribly biased here) however I would recommend to proceed with caution if you go with them…especially with Oxxford. I haven’t seen anything recently made by Oxxford in patch pockets so I have no idea what to expect…& if you are picky about their (patch) shape then ask first to see samples. I am sure you have done your research. So… no need for me to go into that any further.

Another great shade for summer is the long forgotten Burma shade. See if you like that color.

As far as a 3-pc is concerned I will not say much except…if you think you can wear one…then by all means go for it. However, the 3-button SB model above is very appropriate also. Pockets & styling are upon your personal taste.

By the way… Mark, when you receive your suit you must pose for us like the gent above.

Hope it helps

Sincerely
tutee

[Mark Seitelman]

Dear Tutee,

Thanks for the picture. I wish that I could affect the easy elegance of this chap.

I am very familar with Oxxford's models, styling, and details. It does a great job on patch pockets which are totally hand sewn. They will also hand sew a back seam on welted seam on the lapels, if requested.

I have decided to forego the vest.

If I were to go with linen (in addition to the silk), which mills would you recommend?

Thanks.

[Guest]

Well, if you want to see one WITH a vest, you can wait for mine!

Linen: I saw it from H&S and it is wounderful.