Vol. II No. I (Jan 06') University Styles / Winter Items
Posted: Fri Jan 06, 2006 7:40 pm
Dear Members,
Please be patient when viewing this article. It contains detailed pictures that takes a while to load. IT IS PRESENTED IN THREE SECTIONS BECAUSE OF ITS LENGTH. This below what I have presented took me a massive 55+ hours to create. It contains 10-12 illustrations plus more pictures through the links. Actually, it was two different articles that I wrote on different occasions then linked them altogether to create one behemoth of a post. I don’t think I will be able to present something this detailed again. All this is in hope that people find these useful and actually learn something from these. It is funny but sometimes I wish somebody would have done these for me… many years ago when I was struggling to land on any piece of valuable info regarding sartorial matters. But that is all past…and what matters is now.
So… what do we have here? For a while I have been thinking of doing an article on something that is integral and vital to most of the matters that we study here… i.e., northeastern university styles that were observed during the classical era of 30s. It is not only the styles in themselves that are that important but their extremely heavy influence on the styles of that time (outside the campuses) and in the decades to follow. Before, you go on to say… well I don not care for university fashions and collage students are idiots anyways…I ask you kindly to leave your prejudices aside for a while. For the sake of this article kindly focus only and only what is presented below… not your likes and dislikes about universities. If you do what I say…at the end of this article…you will be glad you did that. There is more you can learn from these few illustrations and the article below than you will initially realize.
And I have added more at the end also. You will go through an exhaustive account of what the collage men preferred during that era and how it influenced many of the styles that are our favorites. Yes…times have gone by and it would be foolish to wear what is presented below to an undergraduate campus (at least in US) or suggest so to an undergrad… unless of course you don’t mind the good old ridicule.
If you focus only and only on the article, you will see the movement of these styles as they came (and were Heavily inspired from English country side) into vogue. The connection between the university styles of the past and that of the country side is exactly like the winter resort season at Palm Beach and then summer in the mainland. Both followed each other as night follows the day. Once that is realized you can take these items from here and use it accordingly in today’s world. Maybe that be your casual-Friday oriented office, your home at suburbs or on weekend in metropolis.
As always what is important is a thorough understanding of concepts and ideas. Mere copying will not get you very far and you will also be handicapped to the actual source….may that be designers, mainstream fashion media, books, magazines or even AA/Esky. In the morning or whenever you change for an occasion, it should not take you 30 minutes to decide what you want to wear and how it is going to “work”. You should not have a copy of your favorite book or magazine next to you, trying to figure out…what goes where and what comes next. If that is happening then something is not right…and should I be permitted to render a guess, I will say it is the basic understanding that needs to be worked at. That is exactly what we wish to accomplish with these fora and lively discussions. So off we go…
This time unlike pervious ones, I suggest all members to read this article. It is relatively easy and immensely entertaining. I have explained things wherever possible and given historic accounts (with restrain) when much needed. After the university article you will find a few more illustrations and various other pictures also. Study those for sure. When you get to the end, there is another article regarding the beloved fabric of many; tweeds. Do Not try to rush through this long post. Print it out study at your own pace. It should be fun. If you see any cross-referencing to old illustrations or articles it is because I want you to realize that how versatile this stuff is and not to be taken only and only as presented…the dreaded idea of “outfits”.
Okay… so this main article is from Fall of 34’ AA. The 2nd one is also from the same time period. Click on the links to be directed to other threads and pictures.
For the first article there is something you need to know…
In pre WWII there were 10 prep-schools in US, from which a majority of boys went to these northeastern campuses, that were of utmost importance…especially from the standpoint of clothes. These schools had everyday habits that later yielded in well-attired gents getting ready for their collage years. To describe them in detail would be rather boring and somewhat dull to most members…especially the ones outside US. But I would like to mention their names for sure so that you know what they were. These were the schools of; St. Marks, Gorton, St.Paul’s, Lawrenceville, Hotchkiss, Choate, Taft, Hill…finally Andover and Exeter.
Now before we proceed very much into this article let me tell one thing simply… In pre WWII university fashions, there was Princeton and Yale… and then everybody else. Well maybe Princeton, Yale, then the northeastern campuses and then everybody else. These two universities preceded all other collages, in every scope of collage fashions as much as you can think. For many different reasons even Harvard was rarely credited with any new innovative ideas. There are a few reasons for this and before this turns into a long drawn out history lesson…I will skip over that in the nature of interest to keep this article enjoyable. These two campuses had rivalry from collages of Oxford and Cambridge. Though many will argue that Yale and Princeton fashions were heavily inspired by them…season to season, just as night follows the day, Princeton and Yale, followed fertile fashion grounds of Oxford and Cambridge. But this was not always the case, as we will see during the course of this article. Quite a few fashions originated in these US campuses and then moved east across the “pond”.
And to be perfectly clear on this…I have no affiliation with any of these campuses and this is NOT subject to favoritism or anything like that.
Kindly view the last article of this series also. You will find a few university styles in there plus it will be used for many cross referencing.
Fall Series Part 1
ON UNIVERSITY STYLES
Concerning the world’s most slippery customer—the collage student; you can catch him but can you hold him? Notes on important fashions that will help you do both.
There are two trips that every forward—looking men’s store merchant ought to take at least once in his life time. One is a trip to the Princeton campus on the day that Princeton plays Amherst its, opening game. The other is a journey to the same place some nine months later on Commencement Day.
The point of this suggested itinerary would be neither football games nor Commencement exercises, but something of a more intangible nature that goes by the name of fashion. It would call for a good deal of lynx-eyed observation. And the object of that observation would be (a) the Princeton freshmen as they come to the university, raw and unfledged, from all sections of America, and (b) the same freshmen as they appear at the end of the school year.
In the first instance one would see them dressed in their local clothier’s interpretation of university styles—for better or for worse, and usually for worse.* In the second instance one would see them after they have caught on to what is being worn by the men on campus whom they follow, to the point of slavishness, in everything including their dress.
*This was not always the case. A lot of these new incoming Freshmen already had their elder brothers in Princeton and other esteemed campuses, so their were exposed a bit to university fashions and how everything went along. For example the prep school of Lawrenceville comes to mind immediately, which is located close to the Princeton campus in Mercer County. It is to Princeton, what Exeter is to Harvard and Taft is to Yale… i.e. a big contributor of student body going to Princeton (about some 40% in early 30s). And it is also through these prep schools (mostly) that the elder brothers of the new coming freshmen came from.
The moral? Simply that a merchant can catch the collage student-to-be with promotional honey but he can never hold him in a million years if that honey later turns out to be so much fashion vinegar. Try to get those particular Princeton freshmen who got a bum sartorial steer, all the way from their squeaking shoes to their brand new hats, to go back to the local merchants who did the steering. Just try! They have been subjected, at least in their own minds, to ridicule, and ridicule is a notoriously strong motivating agency. Strong enough to last not merely four years but an entire life time.*
*Again over here is the case for those poor freshmen who were without the help of any elder brothers in these campuses, where fashion innovation took place mostly.
All of which brings us to the inevitable conclusion that the job of catering to the collage student—or to the future collage student, with a view to keeping his trade during and after his campus years—is an usually exciting one. In it, the proper approach to the whole subject is all-important. And that approach is best expressed in the distinction between “collegiate” and true university style, remembering that collegiate is to university fashions what jazz clothes are to true fashions.*
* i.e. the exaggerated features. This is a VERY important distinction. Make note of this.
Collage men today are dressing more conservatively and more for the occasion, than any other group of men in the country. That statement may be a generality, but the failure to recognize it and to deduce from it each individual particular of collage dress is responsible for weaning away more young men from more local men’s stores then you can shake a stick at.
The issue for those merchants who want to do a good (i.e., lasting profitable) job of catering to the collage men in their communities is clear cut. The requirements are first, a broad but exact knowledge of what merchandise is accepted by the well-dressed collage man as meeting his standard of dress and, second, a program of promotional activity carefully keyed to that knowledge. On the second score, aids in that direction will be found in generous measure throughout this issue. As for the answer to the first point, with specific reference to this coming fall season, just keep on reading.
SUITS
Among the major clothing trends of the past two years, the tendency toward rougher surfaced fabrics has been one of the most pronounced of all. Not dramatically, but with gradual and irresistible persistency, this tendency has marked itself as being of increasing importance. The general acceptance of rougher fabrics is a foregone conclusion.*
*I have stressed on this point in particular, regarding fall posts and have provided a few examples of this. For those who are still not convinced, there is more on that… in this article also.
But with reference to university men, “acceptance” is too mild a term and for it should be substituted the word “demand.” To say that all one sees on the campuses are Harris tweeds, Shetlands, cheviots and homespun would be an exaggeration. But it would be a pardonable one.
The trend toward the rough is the chief point to be made about fabrics.* As for model, the salient features may be quickly summarized. Shoulders are natural, jackets are longer and backs are plain except for a center or side vents. There is usually a fullness at the chest and shoulder blades and a decided flare at the hips.
The favorite coat is a three button notched lapel single breasted model and very often there is an addition of cash pockets. In some cases, patch pockets or bellows pockets are worn and, in many cases tweed suits a welt seam on the collar, lapels, pockets and front of coat. Trousers are pleated and taper gracefully to the foot.**
With respect to colorings, there is a predominance of rich browns in a variety of shades and mixtures, while in many cases shades of Lovat are coming to the fore. Greys, of course are also popular—particularly in combinations. At the same time, Glen Urquharts have not lost their hold and are still favored by many, very often with the addition of a colored over-plaid.***
*Read the detailed notes on tweed fabrics, including various types of tweeds and their characteristics.
**See the predominant influence of British campuses in many of these sightings. About two decades later (during 50s), all these details would merge into what is now largely known as the American Traditional clothing. You should be able to see many of these small details and notice how they changed later. Plus see the origins of many of these styles and details are chiefly English or heavily influenced by English details.
***Again, this cannot be stressed enough i.e., the use of Glen-plaid by university men. These checks and plaids were everywhere. US campuses were extremely strong on Glen-plaids with few of the hounds tooth variety, where as the British campuses were equivalently strong on the tartan checks and plaids of English origins.
To be classified well up on the list of popular patterns are both shepherded and gun club checks, while there is a comparatively sudden vogue for over plaids which may be either of a darker color than the suit or contrasting color. Not infrequently, one meets with the return of the ever popular black and white herringbone. Herringbones are also to be seen in brown and tan, as well as in black and brown.
For more dressy occasions, the university man favors the double breasted suit.* These jackets follow the same lines as those of the single breasted suits, as previously defined, the only important point of diverging being a tendency toward a more definite waistline.** Flannels, worsteds and cheviots are favored, with chalk stripes and check effects dominating. Some of these suits also carry cash pockets and vents, while, again, trousers follow fairly much the same lines. Color tends towards the navy blue and dark greys.***
*This is a Vital piece of info , so be sure to make a note of it. Purely a US understanding. This is a rather broad topic in itself, as to the respective formality levels of a SB vs. DB suit. Let me remind you, that the Englishmen never viewed DB as any one bit more formal… on the contrary it was always viewed as something that the younger people preferred in place of a SB 3-pc suit (which was essentially considered more formal than a DB suit, and perhaps still is). In case you are unable to guess… the good ol’ Duke had A LOT to do with it. Later another significant change came from WWII era restrictions.
This early collage perception is one of the root causes of why the DB in US is (usually) viewed as more formal of the two.
**This is strange… I mean the acceptance of waistline on US campuses. Around WWI, there was no waistline to speak of… later during the 20s & 30s… campuses saw an acceptance of slight waist line, and then after WWII it decreased again. On the whole the campuses in US have generally been more shy of accepting this feature, which again is English in nature.
***Note the reference to the ticket pockets.
ODD JACKETS
Few fashions attach more interest to themselves than the pronounced vogue for wearing odd jackets, slacks and waistcoats. This trend is responsible for the very popular mixed suit ensembles which have been dinned into the ears of so many people, not without appreciable effect.
Favored odd jackets are made up in Harris tweed, Shetland, cheviot, Irish homespun, Donegal tweed and gabardine. They find their greatest vogue in a three-button single breasted notched lapel model and very often they carry a belted back with bi-wing pleats. It should be added, however, that on the smarter jackets fancy backs are on their way out, with probable cause being traceable to the increased popularity of bold plaids and checks.
The more fashionable sports jackets carry a center or side vents, regular pockets with flaps and a cash pocket. These odd jackets are rather long and follow very much the same lines as those of the single breasted rough fabric suits.
The Norfolk jackets, which were popular year ago, have again been caught up in the fashion wave and are finding acceptance with clothes-minded undergraduate. A few Norfolk jackets were seen on the campus of Princeton University in the fall of 1933 and at that time Apparel Arts mentioned the return to this once-popular garment for sportswear. Since then, the Norfolk jacket has gone on to an acceptance, or rather re-acceptance, that is little short of remarkable.
But there are as many downs as there are ups in fashion, and on the downward trend are to be listed solid colored sports jackets. These, in fact, are seldom if ever seen. Practically all sports jackets carry definite patterns, whether hound’s tooth check, Glen-plaids, over plaids, district checks or herringbone. These jackets are very often worn in contrast to solid colored dark grey flannel trousers, or trousers that carry a small check or herringbone pattern.
TOPCOATS AND OVERCOATS
There are as many types of topcoats which find favor with university man as there are purposes which they serve. First in the heart of the undergraduate, however, comes the single breasted balmacaan, this is the regular balmacaan and is made of Harris tweed. Also to be reckoned with is the reversible type, made of tweed and gabardine.
Among those coats which serve a functional purpose is the gabardine balmacaan which is very often used as a raincoat. The popular double breasted camel’s hair polo coat, which has been a favorite for past five years, is still worn by many.* Likewise, the short raglan single-breasted coat with notch collar is again returning to the popularity it once enjoyed.
*This was depicted in an illustration in last series, plus the gabardine reversible coat was mentioned with much emphasis in that article.
Another favorite on more dressy lines is the single breasted notched lapel fly front model with extra cash pocket, very often made of Harris tweed. The balmacaan has a short military collar, five leather buttons and slash pockets; when made of gabardine, of course, it has regular bone buttons.
A new topcoat which had its origin last spring on the Princeton campus is a long, easy fitting, four button double breasted checked Shetland Ulster type coat. It follows the trend toward the new models in overcoats which, in turn, follow rather closely the once-favored greatcoats.
It is a foregone conclusion that many overcoats will be seen this winter in variations of these Ulsters.* In some cases—and here the matter of choice hinges upon the pocketbook—similar coats will be worn with fur lining and fur collars. As for the short warm, it is evoking little interest other than that which is being shown by the sportsman.
*See below for a beautiful illustration of these Ulsters. Moreover, see the grey with blue over-plaid Ulster (at a football stadium) depicted in last post.
SHIRTS
Among the various types of shirts worn by the collage man today, probably the most important one from the standpoint of fashion development is the even striped oxford with round collar attached, the collar being worn pinned. A frank diagnosis of the status of this shirt does not show for it a complete and definite acceptance as yet, but on the other hand it attaches more interest to itself than any other model by virtue of the increasing attention that is being accorded it. As the season prolongs itself, this shirt will undoubtedly find more favor every day.
Second to it in point of interest, although actually more popular at the moment, is the button-down attached shirt, made up in solid color oxfords, cotton flannels and wool flannels. Tab collar shirts, while they have fallen off from their last year’s peak, are still worn extensively by university men and are particularly suitable for more dressy occasions. These shirts are favored in definite, colorful striped and check patterns.
As for shirt colorings in general, blue still leads the field by a considerable margin, with tan and grey following in the order named. Yellow started to take on early last spring and is still on the way up,* while dark tones are also very much in evidence in shirtings for fall.
*Here it is again… the reference to yellow in shirts. I explained this in detail last time. Kindly see that article for further info.
NECKWEAR
Last spring, the most important tie on the campus was the pointed end bat bow tie, which was favored in India Madras, neat foulard patterns and, to a certain extent, in stripes. There is little to add to that statement in bringing the account up to date for this year, since every indication points to the prospect that these ties will continue in popularity this fall among university men.* With respect to pattern, however, there is certain to be a revived interest in regimental and club stripes.
*And how right they were… these madras ties will continue to be a favorite among university men for decades to follow. However, one more thing must be mentioned here and that is the poplin based ties. Remember those as an alternative also… they were offered usually in compliment to the poplin shirts, that were sold at the time. The best combination harmonized but never exactly matched the shirt’s pattern.
A significant innovation among university men is the bow tie made of light weight wool. These are seen in authentic Scotch Tartans, as well as neat foulard patterns, and should be a favorite for the fall season.
For the past year, university men have worn crochet knitted ties and in this category all types, styles and colors have been popular. A revived interest is in evidence for fall in wide wale crochet ties on dark colored grounds with spaced bias stripes of unusual light colors, such as coral on black, pale yellow on deep green, pink on grey and many other novel combinations.
Another important element in the fall neckwear picture is the attention given to stripes of all types. Regimentals and clubs are foremost, with a well defined preference for neckwear with black grounds. For dress, neat geometric patterns in Spitalfields and Macclesfield effects are unusually popular and there is a renewed interest in shepherd checks of navy and black.
The wool tie that swept the country over a year ago is till seen on many well dressed undergraduates, and taking into consideration the informal type of dress that is worn by students today, this tie should remain in their wardrobes as a staple. As based on observations made at Yale and Princeton, the prediction may be made that the wools favored will be colorful Scotch tartans and definite bold patterns.
HOSIERY
The subject of student preference with regard to hosiery has long been a moot point, involving considerable debate on the part of those interested, but on the basis of an extensive survey this much at least may be set forth; that the university man prefers light weight wool hose to anything else that maybe worn, and in most cases he prefers this hose all year round.*
*Now “most cases” being the critical word here. Those members interested in extensive details will remember that the university students… (in decades preceding 30s) also preferred the heavy woolen golf type hose that were associated generally with golf and other sports. Historic reason being that many of the “sporty” shoes that were brought over from Scotland and other English playgrounds demanded a heavy woolen hose, which was sort of essential, to ensure proper function of these thick pebbled leather shoes. Now, this was until the US shoe manufactures “caught on” what the fuss about these new shoes. Later once they started developing these styles in US…(completely divorced from the function for which they were intended)… the students no longer needed the heavy hose and were quick to dispense it in favor of lighter weight hose.
This topic… the relation between country footwear and their acceptance in Universities is explained in an article through a link below. Those members who are interested in this may want to read the detailed article.
Shoes article
The return to rougher surfaced fabrics has naturally affected many articles of dress and one finds that, in keeping with the resulting demand for color and pattern, hosiery has taken to patterns that lend themselves to tweed and homespun suits, as well as to more masculine and stouter type of shoes in vogue.
One finds such patterns as Argyle plaids, gun club checks and colorful horizontal stripes well in foreground, not to mention a tendency toward mixtures in hose and a revival in old colors with a “dusty” tinge. Wool hose in solid colors of deep tones, in 6x3 ribs, are also highly favored, while for more formal wear there is solid color silk hosiery with colorful clocks and 6x3 ribbed silk and lisle hose.
FOOTWARE
In dealing with each separate article of merchandise, a constant reference to rough suiting may seem repetitious but it is none the less essential to a proper interpretation of the fashions under consideration. If suitings are rough and shaggy as they are then other apparel must follow the lead.* And that applies to the shoes as well as to many other articles of apparel.
*Here note the direction of this movement. As I explained earlier accessories… say hose, follow the footsteps of footwear directly, which in turn follow the suiting.
For at least five years, the smartly dressed student on the better eastern university campuses has worn plain white buckskin shoes with black rubber soles and heels, in many cases the year round. These are still seen in abundance, but under compulsion of the trend toward rougher surfaced fabrics they are slowly giving way to the more rugged and masculine type of stout brogue with heavy soles and heels.*
*Once out of collage and into the working world, these same men tend to favor the shapely English lasts that were used by their elders also.
One of the most significant footnotes of all is that which involves a dark reddish brown Scotch grain shoe which is made on the English straight last with a noticeably rounded toe. The shoe has a straight toe-cap with heavy punching and has foxing on the side with bold punching. In connection with it, it would not be too much to say that it marks a new point of departure in shoes for university men.
Another model that is evidently finding favor with a number of undergraduates is a brown calf shoe with blucher front and three brass eyelets, all of which are oversize. The shoe has a very thick crepe sole and heel and its color is a dark reddish brown. Another popular reddish brown brogue has a square tapered toe and a blucher front; it features a sewn moccasin effect. Both shoes mentioned are important and in connection with them it is to be emphasized that the color is a dark reddish brown.*
*This is following the lead of the dark reddish brown suiting, also immensely popular at that time for country and town wear. It was offered in various patterns in woolen or worsted flannel types and often carried “dusted” (read fuzzy) chalk stripes or windowpane patterns.
Occasional wingtip brogues are also seen, but they are not overly popular. The Jai Alai shoe, on the other hand, has won immediate success at Yale and Princeton, as well as on other campuses, being seen in white and in white and black saddle. There is every reason to believe that the Jai Alai shoe of brown buckskin will be important for fall. With Jai Alai shoe being made in a reverse calf to resemble the brown buck—and not forgetting that the price is in its favor—it should attain considerable popularity during the coming season.
Interest is till being shown in the plain white buckskin shoe, as previously mentioned, and it can carry either red or black rubber soles and heels. The same shoe with a black saddle and red rubber soles and heels is favored by many. For town wear, and for more dressy occasions, one finds the black blucher straight toe-cap model on the English last highly favored. Calf shoes with plain, straight toe-cap are also in vogue for town wear; these shoes are not on the custom last but follow more directly the English straight last with narrow rounded toe.
HEADWEAR
The important hat of the university man is undeniably the dark brown snap brim model with a silk bound edge, the band being either brown or black. The hat is worn punched in at the front and the crown is worn in such manner as to form a long triangle with a point at the front.* The front of the hat, when snapped, usually carries of a few dips in it, affording a very nonchalant appearance.
*They are referring to what is also known as the tear drop crown style, when looking at the crown top from above.
The brown snap brim hat with a black band is really the headwear among university men and greatly in its favor is the fact that it can be worn to advantage with suits of any color. The same shaped model is often worn in a very dark grey, but at the present time this color is not on a par with the brown.
For town wear, there is the bowler hat and many of the better dressed under graduates wear it on their visits to the metropolitan centers. The favored shape has a full crown and rather, narrow brim.
WAISTCOATS AND SWEATERS
Among the more fashionable articles of dress at eastern universities is the Tattersall waistcoat with colored over plaids on cream colored grounds. One of its chief virtues is the fact that it fits in perfectly with mixed ensembles of odd jackets and slacks, with the colors of the waistcoat either blending or contrasting with the colors of the ensemble. Of late, considerable interest has also been shown in the solid color hunting yellow Tattersall waistcoat—at its best when worn with tweeds that come within the color range of the browns.
A vest which attracted attention at Princeton last fall was the wide wale cream colored corduroy waistcoat. This vest has been taken up by sportsmen throughout the country and will undoubtedly become a nation wide favorite with university men this coming fall. One of the newer notes is the return to the knitted vest. This garment, of course, is made on modern lines, being seen in solid colors which included yellow, white, natural camel’s hair color, wine, and light navy blue.
Sweaters are also of prime importance with university men who now favor the sleeveless pullover with either a V or a low cut crew neck. These are most popular in yellow and in white, although navy blue and wine* colored sweaters are becoming conspicuous on the campuses of the eastern universities. The natural color Shetland sweater is favored by a great many, being most fashionable in flat stitches. On the other hand, however, there is a sudden vogue for cable stitch which is so popular in the white tennis sweater with colored V’s.
*This wine color (in sweaters for men at least) is a pure English invention, and came from their collages without a doubt. First offered in cardigans likes and then eventually in other models. Actually it came with (then) a new model from the school of Harrow but that is all history…and at best left alone. For those who are interested, timeline is around early 33’ maybe late 32’ at the earliest.
FORMAL WEAR
For formal dances and other occasions when women are present, the university men’s choice is the tailcoat. The newer ones carry a spade-shaped tail that goes to the bend in the knee and which is rather high waisted. Shoulders are broad, while lapel are wide and straight* and are covered with dull ribbed silk.
*I have addressed this before but here it is again… this was the classic rule or rather an observation that large men can have more roundness in their lapels (peak specially) than shorter men. See lapels on Gary Copper as opposed to Fred Astaire’s… but both were wide when it came to peak lapels.
As for waistcoats, the white single breasted pique backless model with V front is the favorite. Dress shirts are a fine stripe or bird’s eye pique, wing collars are high with bold tabs, and the preferred tie is in the butterfly shape. Trousers are pleated and taper gracefully to the foot, while pumps or patent leather oxfords are preferred.
In dinner jackets, the one-button peak lapel model is favored and double breasted jacket with peak lapel is slowly gaining favor. With this is worn a soft shirt, or pleated shirt with fold collar, and a medium width butterfly tie. The white and black waistcoats divide honors. For campus wear, both with tailcoat and dinner jacket, the brown snap brim hat is usually worn,* while the collapsible opera hat is favored for metropolitan centers.
*This was even more so the case when an overcoat was used, in which case their preferred choice was the natural color camel’s hair polo coat and with that the hat went well. It should have been the homburg but these young men were shy of this type of headwear and never accepted it fully. Hence, the snap brim filled the bill for them in brown color but some times in grey. By the way… this was also a habit of Astaire to wear such casual headwear (pork-pie often) with black-tie.
ACCESSORIES
Knitted gloves—in solid yellow, brown and white—are ideal for the campus and their merits have been recognized by most undergraduates. There is also a dual trend toward both the grey and red Scotch knitted glove and the white knitted glove with colorful embroidered flowers which resemble the Swedish peasant patterns. For more dressy occasions, the white mocha glove and the yellow buckskin glove are all highly favored. Gauntlet models are, at the moment, preferred by students.
Plaid wool mufflers, Scotch Tartan wool mufflers and print wool mufflers are finding a widespread vogue and there are still many solid color Cashmere worn, with yellow and blue being the favorites. For formal wear, the white silk or imitation silk crochet muffler gets first call, although some university men who are more individual in their dress favor the pale yellow* with their evening clothes.
*Remember that this was the same sort of “smart” dressed set that started things like off-white shirts for evening wear. Here when they say pale yellow, read LIGHT yellow like cream or ivory.
In connection with the Scotch Tartan muffler, attention may be called to the sketch on the preceding page.* In addition to being appropriate for university wear this muffler possesses the further recommendation that it carries the stamp of approval of the Prince of Wales.
*They presented a sketch of a beautiful cashmere Scottish muffler in bright color and pattern.
Suspenders that are narrow in width and bright in color are much liked and, for the warmer season, belts of buckskin, cotton or some other washable material, with brass loops, are the favorites. Silk foulard handkerchiefs are worn by many and heavy gold safety pins are worn in the collars of soft shirts.
Below is a short statement that their (AA) editors wrote to clarify some of the sketches that accompanied this article. I think its important that you should read it also.
POINT-TO-POINT
Point-to-Point racing has always held a position as dear in the hearts of the British sporting world as the British lion itself. Today, with the increasing vogue for sports clothing in this country, it is only natural that we should turn to those who are recognized as authorities on this type of dress. And so we borrow from the British.*
These clothes seen on these pages, typical of the countryside, acknowledge their debt to out British cousins. In them, color plays an important role, while the soft, luxurious Shetlands and hand-loomed tweeds with colored checks and plaids not only lend atmosphere but provide welcome variation to the dull monotony of town clothing.**
*Let this be clearly understood.
**What a sentence to end this article with! And how true it is. For those who know the joys of country clothing with all its glorious offerings, see very little in the way of metropolitan standards of everyday dressing.
Alright…now that we are done with this detailed article above, let us look visually at some of the things that were mentioned in the article. And as they say a picture is worth a thousand words, well…here are the illustrations that all of you eagerly await.
This post I would like to start with something that was mentioned foremost in this article and if you have been paying attention… in various pervious posts also. The quintessential “collage uniform” so to speak of 1930s that was observed in various Northeastern campuses. This is from fall of 34’.
Image 4-20-18 at 8.00 PM (1) by The London Lounge, on Flickr
I cannot stress enough to read and re-read this article above and then observe and re-observe this illustration here. I am extremely fond of this attire, even though I believe that the old rule of “no brown with grey” was on to something.
To start off with the details here, this jacket is of brown…guess? yep…Shetland that carries a dark over plaid and is in 3-button roll-lapel model with side vents. Jacket pockets are patch (with a flap) including the breast one…which is patch but without a flap… and the sleeve carries two buttons instead of the customary 4, which in turn signifies that without a doubt it is not part of a suit. Shirt is blue and white striped in oxford cloth with short rounded collar attached and worn pinned. Tie is striped crocheted one. Underneath the jacket is a sleeveless dark blue cashmere pull-over, which may appear black on screen but is actually blue. Pocket square is in foulard blue and white dotted motif. Pants are the classic flannel in a light grey color and are cut with two pleats and a pegged top, which taper gracefully to the shoes. They have self turn-ups instead of the usual pressed cuffs. … note the break (more on that below). Shoes are brown suede in a blucher model with crepe soles and heels. Also note that in addition to these, brown buckskin brogues are also a perfectly acceptable choice here. This ensemble is good for general country wear and golf. Last but not least, hat is brown felt snap brim model with a pinched crown and a dark brown band (can be black also…esp. if Princeton).
Before I go into the details…read below the original text from Esky version, which is actually more interesting than AA’s.
The combination of an odd brown jacket with grey flannel slacks is as old as the 1930’s. All but the extremely dumb undergraduates who were on hand to see this fashion at the time of its first importation from Oxford and Cambridge are out in the cruel world looking for jobs, but this outfit goes on without them
Here note that they are referring to the year 1930 when this fashion first caught on. Then later note the evidence on importation, which I also mentioned at the beginning of this article.
An interesting sidelight concerning the combination of odd brown jacket and grey flannel slacks is that which reveals its vogue as originating with English country gentlemen. From that class, it was but a step to the adoption of the combination by English university students. American students, always partial to odd combinations, were quick to take to this nonchalant, carefree type of dress. Today the brown jacket and grey slacks ensemble is a familiar sight on almost every campus, particularly in the East.
On blue and white shirting…
If universities are to be accepted as a proving ground for fashion—and nothing could be more logical—then considerable significance can be assigned to the fact that the striped oxford shirt in the round collar attached model is currently a very popular one with university men.
Now…note the overall easy fitting of the jacket…in particular the shoulder line and the trousers. If you are observant you will notice that in addition to being rather full in cut, the jacket is slightly long and the pants rather short. That is sort of a collage campus “blue-book” rule…if you must know. The heavy tweedy fabric is an excellent choice for this type of a cut, well articulated… even further by impeccable tailoring. This jacket is plain at the back (except side vents) but were you to observe an alternate illustration, it would not be much effort to locate a belted back, perhaps even the bi-swing pleats aforementioned. These bi-swing pleats by the way are also a golfing innovation. For those of you who are technically inclined, here is some info you might find useful; on a jacket on size 39 regular the estimated length is 31.5” at the back…which (goes without saying) is already 1.5” longer than the average of the time.
Now let us have a look at the suit…This is from early spring of 36’.
Image 4-20-18 at 8.00 PM (2) by The London Lounge, on Flickr
This suit here is a three button with lapel rolled to the middle button in brown Shetland with a bold over plaid. This here is a 3-pc model in which the waistcoat has been left at home. It carries side vents and slanting ticket pocket. This is somewhat of a unique example…more often than not, horizontal ticket pockets were observed on campuses. The shirt is of champagne color with collar attached and the tie is of deep reddish brown color and carries green dots. Pocket square is foulard and is in also green and red motif (different from the tie). Shoes are brown calf Norwegian model, hat is in “snuff” shade, snap brim like the one in the illustration above with a lower crown and slightly wider brim.
Note here, again, the longer jacket with full cut pants. Here the break is more obvious than in other instances. These large sized over plaid checks, Glen-Plaids or other prominent hunting checks are the trademarks of English country men or their students for that matter. This jacket can easily be substituted in place of the jacket in the first illustration. The main difference between this suit…shown here in Princeton…and the one observed say in Scotland, is that this one is made in a considerably light weight fabric whereas the other one will be in rather heavier.
Next having done with brown suit, let us view a green suit worn by university men during those days. This is from early 34’ season.
Image 4-20-18 at 8.01 PM by The London Lounge, on Flickr
Both of them are undergraduates on campus at eastern universities. There are two different things at work here. The left one should be very familiar, as it is nothing but another twist on the very first illustration of brown and grey. I will go over this quickly. The jacket on left is solid brown Shetland worn with a darker gray flannel slacks. Shoes here are brown buckskin with black soles and heels, which by the way were offered as an alternative in the first picture. Now what is different is the rest…that being, starting with the flannel shirt that is grey in color. Collar is short rounded model that is worn pinned. Note this scheme; same color in shirt and pants. Then tie is of rep variety with green and red, which go very well with the odd vest colors. The most interesting piece here is the use of Tattersall “weskit” of a yellowish flannel, which carries multi colored over plaid. The hat here is with black band and the gloves are yellow buckskin. It goes without saying that the absence of plaid in jacket is picked up at the vest, and that either one of these should be plain.
On the right we have something most interesting. For those of you who enjoyed the green DB tweed suit last post have another reason to rejoice here. Even for those who do not prefer green tweed DB’s…here is something in SB version and goes so far to tell you that how much you can push a green tweed suit (in terms of style), that is if you are really determined to do it. This here is probably the MOST formal cut you will ever see a green tweed suit in. This was presented here as the good old reliable “Brooks Brothers” model, which immediately makes you wonder what kind of suits they were producing back then. It is a 3-pc suit on which the vest is DB, six button in a V shape or diamond tip at the front. Jacket is 3-button roll lapel without any vents at the back. Fabric preferred choice was Harris tweed but there is no reason to put cheviot away either. Shirt is a brown glen-plaid oxford, and a solid red crocheted tie. Shoes are dark reddish brown calf. I think I ought to mention this, for I am not sure it is perfectly clear. Do NOT even think about attempting this in a green worsted fabric.
Now notice the cut of this suit, carefully. You will see that it… despite being in a country fabric, follows the lines of a metropolitan one. The pants are worn high at the waist and the vest pushed up…which by the way is a requisite for a suit of this model. Both jacket and vest carry lapels of ample width and note the link watch chain at the vest. Pants are full in cut as usual but taper down very gracefully in this case and end on top of the shoe. No break in either of these instances. Both jackets and pants are cut rather full or along easy lines…something that is helped immensely by the heavier fabric. What makes this ensemble a “student” one and not that of a metropolitan man is….yes you guessed it right…the shirt and the tie. Both of them add a considerable air of informality to the whole outfit. You may dispense with them and that was recommended as a matter of fact, especially if your taste runs more along the lines of subdued or citified. Consider a light blue (I mean Light here) or a light green shirt then choose the according tie, in either blue / green stripe or small neat dotted motif. You can also opt for a little yellow represented in either stripes on shirts or on tie but be careful with it. If you are in the mood for something really unique…you can pull the horizontal striped trick here…the one I explained in detail last time with the green DB tweed suit. As an alternative you can substitute that exact shirt and tie here with ease.
Observe the other options in shirt colors that are available. See the link.
Image 4-20-18 at 8.01 PM (1) by The London Lounge, on Flickr
You have blue, green, and lavender/ lilac or pink. Green is basic here and should be in the light color suggested. With blue go easy on the color as I explained above and finally lavender or pink, works very nicely with green, that is if you keep the shirt considerably lighter. Do NOT go to deeper shades with lavender…unless of course you don’t mind looking like an eggplant or…well…Barney.
It is often said that tweed suits, esp. green tweed are an acquired taste… much more so now in the era of super worsted fabrics and other synthetic materials. There may be some truth to it and I cannot deny that. However, acquired or not… there is something everlastingly unique about a green tweed suit. You known as well as I do that green is already not an easy color to pull-off or make it work. Tweed as a rough fabric adds more to this complexity with its rather rough nature… yet this is where I think these two characteristics merge very well and form something immensely tasteful to view. I personally am a devotee of brown over green…yet anytime I see somebody wear a green tweed suit properly (& that does not happen often), I want to tip my hat in their direction.
That should take care of the suits and odd jackets for the time being. Let us observe an example of overcoat, actually an Ulster as in this illustration below. This is from fall of 34’.
Image 4-20-18 at 8.00 PM by The London Lounge, on Flickr
As they say…cold weather goes with football games—and Ulsters go with both… this here is an Ulster of easy fitting cream colored Harris tweed with a rust over plaid and it carries camel hair interlinings. It is cut large and full and has a wide and high collar, which when turned over (as portrayed) ward off wintry cold blasts that one expects in Stadiums or other outer door place during winter. 9 out of 10 chances are he is wearing an odd jacket of Shetland underneath with obvious grey flannel slacks. Shoes are heavy brown brogues, the muffler is a cashmere Scotch plaid. The hat is the brown snap-brim with a bound edge. Crown is lower than usual and brim a tad bit wider. Gloves here should be yellow string, fleeced lined, which are considered smart accessories with this type of a coat.
This coat does not carry a belt in the back and has a center vent. See the extreme resemblance between this model and the one presented in last article; the grey one at the stadium. Even though Englishmen have no connection with football (at least as understood in US) they in country often wear this coat.
Now on the university favorite polo coat…something that was another university favorite article.
Speaking of football games, brings to mind the camel’s hair polo coat—for many years the favorite collage coat and an inveterate concomitant of the stadium wardrobe. This coat actually became a uniform on the various campuses throughout the country and may be said to have died of over popularity. Elsewhere in this issue, in the article entitled “Freaks of Fashion,” is recounted what happened to the polo coat when it became a plaything of the self-appointed fashionists.* But this seems as good a place as any to mention that last season saw the reinstatement of the coat in its authentic polo model. What the stylists would destroy they first over-exaggerate. And what well dressed men would revive they bring back in its original and authentic form.
*They are referring to the fate of polo coat in early 30s at the hand of “designers” of the time…who never satisfied with the original proportions, started tweaking them and pretty soon the whole affair got carried so far that it was barely recognizable as a polo coat any longer. This “freaks of fashion” is a stunning article that deals in depth with the problems that the apparel industry faced, at the hands of designers of the era…who were bent on twisting every new thing to an extreme and more importantly, the public…who was ready to follow them blindly during the times when they could not afford to make foolish mistakes.
On Scotch plaid cashmere mufflers… see last article for more info on mufflers.
The Scotch plaid Cashmere muffler, an interesting example of which is seen on the opposite page, is currently receiving more than its usual quota of attention. It is important to note that that attention is being accorded by men whose position as leaders of fashion counts for something, and it is interesting to note that those men are about evenly distributed on both sides of Atlantic.
Now…for the last illustration of this university related article. Probably the most beautiful of them all. This one is from Summer of 35’ but I am presenting it in this one because who known when will be the next related article.
Image 4-20-18 at 8.01 PM (3) by The London Lounge, on Flickr
There is much to be discussed in this illustration. I will explain this one by one. First the basic stuff…the son at the left is wearing a 3-pc suit in gabardine with the waistcoat left at home. The jacket is a 2-button SB model with lapel roll to…yes…that’s right what you see…the bottom button (detail below) with a seven inch center vent at the back. Shirt is white oxford button-down, hounds tooth check red and white cotton tie, white linen pocket square, horizontal striped lisle hose, white buckskin shoes with red rubber soles and heels, and a sennit straw hat with club colors on the band.
The father on right wears a DB grey flannel jacket that may as well be part of a suit with lapel rolled to the bottom button…a la Duke of Kent style, with side vents at the back. Trousers are of cricket cloth but can perfectly be of white duck, or just flannel, broadcloth tab collar shirt with deep blue stripes, guard’s rep tie of Royal Artillery, white pocket square, combination last sports shoes in brown & white buckskin and a brown snap brim hat on which the crown is Not pinched.
Time for details…
Look at the young man on the left in gabardine suit. Do you see an Americanized outfit? You should because that is precisely what this is. First of all his jacket is a 2 button roll to bottom…yes that dreaded style that none but the very few can correctly wear. I won’t say much on it…because it will take another 2-3 paragraphs easily… explaining where it works and where it won’t…
just remember this part…that the button stance is much higher than usual and the bottom button is only a little below the waist, which if you think about it, is high. That is the key here. This is not the paddock model with its stiff, horsey oriented lines…it is much different, much closer to a Brooks Brothers model of the era. Note the color scheme here in accessories. Color harmony should be the word as this is exactly what I explained some 5-6 months ago in summer articles. The hatband, tie, socks and shoes all come together to form something that is much more interesting than each in them self. Notice the natural fitting lines of the suit and the length of the pants which are short as to produce no break over the shoes.
The fashion conscious prep school or collage man in search of a smart ensemble after which to pattern his own attire would be hard put to it to beat the outfit sketched on the figure at the left. The fact that the ensemble is suitable for a prep school man takes nothing away from its appropriateness for the university undergraduate. As a matter of fact, the outfit is typical of those worn by collage men at the annual Yale-Harvard Regatta at New London, Connecticut.
Now look at the figure on the right…immediately you should recognize the heavy English influence in this case. As they said you don’t exactly have to be a spectator at a boat race to wear what the gent on the right is wearing because this is what most Englishmen happen to wear to such events.
Starting from the top, as you know…Englishmen never have (or had) a “thing” for the straw, so they do (or did) their best to use felt in every possible instance and this being no exception. Guard’s tie shout English if nothing else…esp. the pattern. Jacket is DB with eight inch side vents and a long roll lapel. So what else is there?
Look again…and you will realize that it has not only “Kent” style lapels but that button stance is in a “keystone” shape which eliminates the possibility of buttoning it at the middle one (Astaire’s favorite). You don’t have to have them in this configuration but this goes to tell you… that you have an option available. Grey and white is another English classic, then completing the ensemble are, the combination shoes. Note here the length of the pants…no break…none what so ever. Pants are full in cut but they taper down at the foot.
I don’t want the people from Harvard to fell all left out. Here is an amusing little note from Esky, on the university influences and carnations.
There’s a shot cheeyah for Haahvuhd in both these costumes, although in basic detail they are both right of the embattled lines that draw up at New London to watch the Harvard-Yale classic. Anyway, papa’s carnation is Harvard red, and there’s a Cantabridgian cast to the color scheme of son’s accessories. Yale men may solve this dilemma by substituting a blue cornflower for the Harvard red carnation—and so on throughout.
…On how to appear smart without striving for an effect of smartness…
There are two platitudes to set down about both of the ensembles sketched here. The first is that they attain the much-desired effect of nonchalance prized by many well dressed men and second is that, while they are smart, there is no attempt at unusual combinations. In fact, the outfits could be described as conservative dress. These ensembles are suitable for resort wear in practically all parts of the country.
I hope this is enough to stress on the key points that I have been trying to establish since the beginning of this article series. An understanding of concepts is Most vital and much needed over anything else. Here in this case… see for yourself, the outfit on the left is Americanized and the one the right is English. Both are perfectly correct for the occasion and traditional in themselves. Which one will you go for? It is you who will have to make the decision and that will be heavily influenced by your style…the development of which is of the utmost importance.
THIS ENDS SECTION 1 OF THIS ARTICLE
Please be patient when viewing this article. It contains detailed pictures that takes a while to load. IT IS PRESENTED IN THREE SECTIONS BECAUSE OF ITS LENGTH. This below what I have presented took me a massive 55+ hours to create. It contains 10-12 illustrations plus more pictures through the links. Actually, it was two different articles that I wrote on different occasions then linked them altogether to create one behemoth of a post. I don’t think I will be able to present something this detailed again. All this is in hope that people find these useful and actually learn something from these. It is funny but sometimes I wish somebody would have done these for me… many years ago when I was struggling to land on any piece of valuable info regarding sartorial matters. But that is all past…and what matters is now.
So… what do we have here? For a while I have been thinking of doing an article on something that is integral and vital to most of the matters that we study here… i.e., northeastern university styles that were observed during the classical era of 30s. It is not only the styles in themselves that are that important but their extremely heavy influence on the styles of that time (outside the campuses) and in the decades to follow. Before, you go on to say… well I don not care for university fashions and collage students are idiots anyways…I ask you kindly to leave your prejudices aside for a while. For the sake of this article kindly focus only and only what is presented below… not your likes and dislikes about universities. If you do what I say…at the end of this article…you will be glad you did that. There is more you can learn from these few illustrations and the article below than you will initially realize.
And I have added more at the end also. You will go through an exhaustive account of what the collage men preferred during that era and how it influenced many of the styles that are our favorites. Yes…times have gone by and it would be foolish to wear what is presented below to an undergraduate campus (at least in US) or suggest so to an undergrad… unless of course you don’t mind the good old ridicule.
If you focus only and only on the article, you will see the movement of these styles as they came (and were Heavily inspired from English country side) into vogue. The connection between the university styles of the past and that of the country side is exactly like the winter resort season at Palm Beach and then summer in the mainland. Both followed each other as night follows the day. Once that is realized you can take these items from here and use it accordingly in today’s world. Maybe that be your casual-Friday oriented office, your home at suburbs or on weekend in metropolis.
As always what is important is a thorough understanding of concepts and ideas. Mere copying will not get you very far and you will also be handicapped to the actual source….may that be designers, mainstream fashion media, books, magazines or even AA/Esky. In the morning or whenever you change for an occasion, it should not take you 30 minutes to decide what you want to wear and how it is going to “work”. You should not have a copy of your favorite book or magazine next to you, trying to figure out…what goes where and what comes next. If that is happening then something is not right…and should I be permitted to render a guess, I will say it is the basic understanding that needs to be worked at. That is exactly what we wish to accomplish with these fora and lively discussions. So off we go…
This time unlike pervious ones, I suggest all members to read this article. It is relatively easy and immensely entertaining. I have explained things wherever possible and given historic accounts (with restrain) when much needed. After the university article you will find a few more illustrations and various other pictures also. Study those for sure. When you get to the end, there is another article regarding the beloved fabric of many; tweeds. Do Not try to rush through this long post. Print it out study at your own pace. It should be fun. If you see any cross-referencing to old illustrations or articles it is because I want you to realize that how versatile this stuff is and not to be taken only and only as presented…the dreaded idea of “outfits”.
Okay… so this main article is from Fall of 34’ AA. The 2nd one is also from the same time period. Click on the links to be directed to other threads and pictures.
For the first article there is something you need to know…
In pre WWII there were 10 prep-schools in US, from which a majority of boys went to these northeastern campuses, that were of utmost importance…especially from the standpoint of clothes. These schools had everyday habits that later yielded in well-attired gents getting ready for their collage years. To describe them in detail would be rather boring and somewhat dull to most members…especially the ones outside US. But I would like to mention their names for sure so that you know what they were. These were the schools of; St. Marks, Gorton, St.Paul’s, Lawrenceville, Hotchkiss, Choate, Taft, Hill…finally Andover and Exeter.
Now before we proceed very much into this article let me tell one thing simply… In pre WWII university fashions, there was Princeton and Yale… and then everybody else. Well maybe Princeton, Yale, then the northeastern campuses and then everybody else. These two universities preceded all other collages, in every scope of collage fashions as much as you can think. For many different reasons even Harvard was rarely credited with any new innovative ideas. There are a few reasons for this and before this turns into a long drawn out history lesson…I will skip over that in the nature of interest to keep this article enjoyable. These two campuses had rivalry from collages of Oxford and Cambridge. Though many will argue that Yale and Princeton fashions were heavily inspired by them…season to season, just as night follows the day, Princeton and Yale, followed fertile fashion grounds of Oxford and Cambridge. But this was not always the case, as we will see during the course of this article. Quite a few fashions originated in these US campuses and then moved east across the “pond”.
And to be perfectly clear on this…I have no affiliation with any of these campuses and this is NOT subject to favoritism or anything like that.
Kindly view the last article of this series also. You will find a few university styles in there plus it will be used for many cross referencing.
Fall Series Part 1
ON UNIVERSITY STYLES
Concerning the world’s most slippery customer—the collage student; you can catch him but can you hold him? Notes on important fashions that will help you do both.
There are two trips that every forward—looking men’s store merchant ought to take at least once in his life time. One is a trip to the Princeton campus on the day that Princeton plays Amherst its, opening game. The other is a journey to the same place some nine months later on Commencement Day.
The point of this suggested itinerary would be neither football games nor Commencement exercises, but something of a more intangible nature that goes by the name of fashion. It would call for a good deal of lynx-eyed observation. And the object of that observation would be (a) the Princeton freshmen as they come to the university, raw and unfledged, from all sections of America, and (b) the same freshmen as they appear at the end of the school year.
In the first instance one would see them dressed in their local clothier’s interpretation of university styles—for better or for worse, and usually for worse.* In the second instance one would see them after they have caught on to what is being worn by the men on campus whom they follow, to the point of slavishness, in everything including their dress.
*This was not always the case. A lot of these new incoming Freshmen already had their elder brothers in Princeton and other esteemed campuses, so their were exposed a bit to university fashions and how everything went along. For example the prep school of Lawrenceville comes to mind immediately, which is located close to the Princeton campus in Mercer County. It is to Princeton, what Exeter is to Harvard and Taft is to Yale… i.e. a big contributor of student body going to Princeton (about some 40% in early 30s). And it is also through these prep schools (mostly) that the elder brothers of the new coming freshmen came from.
The moral? Simply that a merchant can catch the collage student-to-be with promotional honey but he can never hold him in a million years if that honey later turns out to be so much fashion vinegar. Try to get those particular Princeton freshmen who got a bum sartorial steer, all the way from their squeaking shoes to their brand new hats, to go back to the local merchants who did the steering. Just try! They have been subjected, at least in their own minds, to ridicule, and ridicule is a notoriously strong motivating agency. Strong enough to last not merely four years but an entire life time.*
*Again over here is the case for those poor freshmen who were without the help of any elder brothers in these campuses, where fashion innovation took place mostly.
All of which brings us to the inevitable conclusion that the job of catering to the collage student—or to the future collage student, with a view to keeping his trade during and after his campus years—is an usually exciting one. In it, the proper approach to the whole subject is all-important. And that approach is best expressed in the distinction between “collegiate” and true university style, remembering that collegiate is to university fashions what jazz clothes are to true fashions.*
* i.e. the exaggerated features. This is a VERY important distinction. Make note of this.
Collage men today are dressing more conservatively and more for the occasion, than any other group of men in the country. That statement may be a generality, but the failure to recognize it and to deduce from it each individual particular of collage dress is responsible for weaning away more young men from more local men’s stores then you can shake a stick at.
The issue for those merchants who want to do a good (i.e., lasting profitable) job of catering to the collage men in their communities is clear cut. The requirements are first, a broad but exact knowledge of what merchandise is accepted by the well-dressed collage man as meeting his standard of dress and, second, a program of promotional activity carefully keyed to that knowledge. On the second score, aids in that direction will be found in generous measure throughout this issue. As for the answer to the first point, with specific reference to this coming fall season, just keep on reading.
SUITS
Among the major clothing trends of the past two years, the tendency toward rougher surfaced fabrics has been one of the most pronounced of all. Not dramatically, but with gradual and irresistible persistency, this tendency has marked itself as being of increasing importance. The general acceptance of rougher fabrics is a foregone conclusion.*
*I have stressed on this point in particular, regarding fall posts and have provided a few examples of this. For those who are still not convinced, there is more on that… in this article also.
But with reference to university men, “acceptance” is too mild a term and for it should be substituted the word “demand.” To say that all one sees on the campuses are Harris tweeds, Shetlands, cheviots and homespun would be an exaggeration. But it would be a pardonable one.
The trend toward the rough is the chief point to be made about fabrics.* As for model, the salient features may be quickly summarized. Shoulders are natural, jackets are longer and backs are plain except for a center or side vents. There is usually a fullness at the chest and shoulder blades and a decided flare at the hips.
The favorite coat is a three button notched lapel single breasted model and very often there is an addition of cash pockets. In some cases, patch pockets or bellows pockets are worn and, in many cases tweed suits a welt seam on the collar, lapels, pockets and front of coat. Trousers are pleated and taper gracefully to the foot.**
With respect to colorings, there is a predominance of rich browns in a variety of shades and mixtures, while in many cases shades of Lovat are coming to the fore. Greys, of course are also popular—particularly in combinations. At the same time, Glen Urquharts have not lost their hold and are still favored by many, very often with the addition of a colored over-plaid.***
*Read the detailed notes on tweed fabrics, including various types of tweeds and their characteristics.
**See the predominant influence of British campuses in many of these sightings. About two decades later (during 50s), all these details would merge into what is now largely known as the American Traditional clothing. You should be able to see many of these small details and notice how they changed later. Plus see the origins of many of these styles and details are chiefly English or heavily influenced by English details.
***Again, this cannot be stressed enough i.e., the use of Glen-plaid by university men. These checks and plaids were everywhere. US campuses were extremely strong on Glen-plaids with few of the hounds tooth variety, where as the British campuses were equivalently strong on the tartan checks and plaids of English origins.
To be classified well up on the list of popular patterns are both shepherded and gun club checks, while there is a comparatively sudden vogue for over plaids which may be either of a darker color than the suit or contrasting color. Not infrequently, one meets with the return of the ever popular black and white herringbone. Herringbones are also to be seen in brown and tan, as well as in black and brown.
For more dressy occasions, the university man favors the double breasted suit.* These jackets follow the same lines as those of the single breasted suits, as previously defined, the only important point of diverging being a tendency toward a more definite waistline.** Flannels, worsteds and cheviots are favored, with chalk stripes and check effects dominating. Some of these suits also carry cash pockets and vents, while, again, trousers follow fairly much the same lines. Color tends towards the navy blue and dark greys.***
*This is a Vital piece of info , so be sure to make a note of it. Purely a US understanding. This is a rather broad topic in itself, as to the respective formality levels of a SB vs. DB suit. Let me remind you, that the Englishmen never viewed DB as any one bit more formal… on the contrary it was always viewed as something that the younger people preferred in place of a SB 3-pc suit (which was essentially considered more formal than a DB suit, and perhaps still is). In case you are unable to guess… the good ol’ Duke had A LOT to do with it. Later another significant change came from WWII era restrictions.
This early collage perception is one of the root causes of why the DB in US is (usually) viewed as more formal of the two.
**This is strange… I mean the acceptance of waistline on US campuses. Around WWI, there was no waistline to speak of… later during the 20s & 30s… campuses saw an acceptance of slight waist line, and then after WWII it decreased again. On the whole the campuses in US have generally been more shy of accepting this feature, which again is English in nature.
***Note the reference to the ticket pockets.
ODD JACKETS
Few fashions attach more interest to themselves than the pronounced vogue for wearing odd jackets, slacks and waistcoats. This trend is responsible for the very popular mixed suit ensembles which have been dinned into the ears of so many people, not without appreciable effect.
Favored odd jackets are made up in Harris tweed, Shetland, cheviot, Irish homespun, Donegal tweed and gabardine. They find their greatest vogue in a three-button single breasted notched lapel model and very often they carry a belted back with bi-wing pleats. It should be added, however, that on the smarter jackets fancy backs are on their way out, with probable cause being traceable to the increased popularity of bold plaids and checks.
The more fashionable sports jackets carry a center or side vents, regular pockets with flaps and a cash pocket. These odd jackets are rather long and follow very much the same lines as those of the single breasted rough fabric suits.
The Norfolk jackets, which were popular year ago, have again been caught up in the fashion wave and are finding acceptance with clothes-minded undergraduate. A few Norfolk jackets were seen on the campus of Princeton University in the fall of 1933 and at that time Apparel Arts mentioned the return to this once-popular garment for sportswear. Since then, the Norfolk jacket has gone on to an acceptance, or rather re-acceptance, that is little short of remarkable.
But there are as many downs as there are ups in fashion, and on the downward trend are to be listed solid colored sports jackets. These, in fact, are seldom if ever seen. Practically all sports jackets carry definite patterns, whether hound’s tooth check, Glen-plaids, over plaids, district checks or herringbone. These jackets are very often worn in contrast to solid colored dark grey flannel trousers, or trousers that carry a small check or herringbone pattern.
TOPCOATS AND OVERCOATS
There are as many types of topcoats which find favor with university man as there are purposes which they serve. First in the heart of the undergraduate, however, comes the single breasted balmacaan, this is the regular balmacaan and is made of Harris tweed. Also to be reckoned with is the reversible type, made of tweed and gabardine.
Among those coats which serve a functional purpose is the gabardine balmacaan which is very often used as a raincoat. The popular double breasted camel’s hair polo coat, which has been a favorite for past five years, is still worn by many.* Likewise, the short raglan single-breasted coat with notch collar is again returning to the popularity it once enjoyed.
*This was depicted in an illustration in last series, plus the gabardine reversible coat was mentioned with much emphasis in that article.
Another favorite on more dressy lines is the single breasted notched lapel fly front model with extra cash pocket, very often made of Harris tweed. The balmacaan has a short military collar, five leather buttons and slash pockets; when made of gabardine, of course, it has regular bone buttons.
A new topcoat which had its origin last spring on the Princeton campus is a long, easy fitting, four button double breasted checked Shetland Ulster type coat. It follows the trend toward the new models in overcoats which, in turn, follow rather closely the once-favored greatcoats.
It is a foregone conclusion that many overcoats will be seen this winter in variations of these Ulsters.* In some cases—and here the matter of choice hinges upon the pocketbook—similar coats will be worn with fur lining and fur collars. As for the short warm, it is evoking little interest other than that which is being shown by the sportsman.
*See below for a beautiful illustration of these Ulsters. Moreover, see the grey with blue over-plaid Ulster (at a football stadium) depicted in last post.
SHIRTS
Among the various types of shirts worn by the collage man today, probably the most important one from the standpoint of fashion development is the even striped oxford with round collar attached, the collar being worn pinned. A frank diagnosis of the status of this shirt does not show for it a complete and definite acceptance as yet, but on the other hand it attaches more interest to itself than any other model by virtue of the increasing attention that is being accorded it. As the season prolongs itself, this shirt will undoubtedly find more favor every day.
Second to it in point of interest, although actually more popular at the moment, is the button-down attached shirt, made up in solid color oxfords, cotton flannels and wool flannels. Tab collar shirts, while they have fallen off from their last year’s peak, are still worn extensively by university men and are particularly suitable for more dressy occasions. These shirts are favored in definite, colorful striped and check patterns.
As for shirt colorings in general, blue still leads the field by a considerable margin, with tan and grey following in the order named. Yellow started to take on early last spring and is still on the way up,* while dark tones are also very much in evidence in shirtings for fall.
*Here it is again… the reference to yellow in shirts. I explained this in detail last time. Kindly see that article for further info.
NECKWEAR
Last spring, the most important tie on the campus was the pointed end bat bow tie, which was favored in India Madras, neat foulard patterns and, to a certain extent, in stripes. There is little to add to that statement in bringing the account up to date for this year, since every indication points to the prospect that these ties will continue in popularity this fall among university men.* With respect to pattern, however, there is certain to be a revived interest in regimental and club stripes.
*And how right they were… these madras ties will continue to be a favorite among university men for decades to follow. However, one more thing must be mentioned here and that is the poplin based ties. Remember those as an alternative also… they were offered usually in compliment to the poplin shirts, that were sold at the time. The best combination harmonized but never exactly matched the shirt’s pattern.
A significant innovation among university men is the bow tie made of light weight wool. These are seen in authentic Scotch Tartans, as well as neat foulard patterns, and should be a favorite for the fall season.
For the past year, university men have worn crochet knitted ties and in this category all types, styles and colors have been popular. A revived interest is in evidence for fall in wide wale crochet ties on dark colored grounds with spaced bias stripes of unusual light colors, such as coral on black, pale yellow on deep green, pink on grey and many other novel combinations.
Another important element in the fall neckwear picture is the attention given to stripes of all types. Regimentals and clubs are foremost, with a well defined preference for neckwear with black grounds. For dress, neat geometric patterns in Spitalfields and Macclesfield effects are unusually popular and there is a renewed interest in shepherd checks of navy and black.
The wool tie that swept the country over a year ago is till seen on many well dressed undergraduates, and taking into consideration the informal type of dress that is worn by students today, this tie should remain in their wardrobes as a staple. As based on observations made at Yale and Princeton, the prediction may be made that the wools favored will be colorful Scotch tartans and definite bold patterns.
HOSIERY
The subject of student preference with regard to hosiery has long been a moot point, involving considerable debate on the part of those interested, but on the basis of an extensive survey this much at least may be set forth; that the university man prefers light weight wool hose to anything else that maybe worn, and in most cases he prefers this hose all year round.*
*Now “most cases” being the critical word here. Those members interested in extensive details will remember that the university students… (in decades preceding 30s) also preferred the heavy woolen golf type hose that were associated generally with golf and other sports. Historic reason being that many of the “sporty” shoes that were brought over from Scotland and other English playgrounds demanded a heavy woolen hose, which was sort of essential, to ensure proper function of these thick pebbled leather shoes. Now, this was until the US shoe manufactures “caught on” what the fuss about these new shoes. Later once they started developing these styles in US…(completely divorced from the function for which they were intended)… the students no longer needed the heavy hose and were quick to dispense it in favor of lighter weight hose.
This topic… the relation between country footwear and their acceptance in Universities is explained in an article through a link below. Those members who are interested in this may want to read the detailed article.
Shoes article
The return to rougher surfaced fabrics has naturally affected many articles of dress and one finds that, in keeping with the resulting demand for color and pattern, hosiery has taken to patterns that lend themselves to tweed and homespun suits, as well as to more masculine and stouter type of shoes in vogue.
One finds such patterns as Argyle plaids, gun club checks and colorful horizontal stripes well in foreground, not to mention a tendency toward mixtures in hose and a revival in old colors with a “dusty” tinge. Wool hose in solid colors of deep tones, in 6x3 ribs, are also highly favored, while for more formal wear there is solid color silk hosiery with colorful clocks and 6x3 ribbed silk and lisle hose.
FOOTWARE
In dealing with each separate article of merchandise, a constant reference to rough suiting may seem repetitious but it is none the less essential to a proper interpretation of the fashions under consideration. If suitings are rough and shaggy as they are then other apparel must follow the lead.* And that applies to the shoes as well as to many other articles of apparel.
*Here note the direction of this movement. As I explained earlier accessories… say hose, follow the footsteps of footwear directly, which in turn follow the suiting.
For at least five years, the smartly dressed student on the better eastern university campuses has worn plain white buckskin shoes with black rubber soles and heels, in many cases the year round. These are still seen in abundance, but under compulsion of the trend toward rougher surfaced fabrics they are slowly giving way to the more rugged and masculine type of stout brogue with heavy soles and heels.*
*Once out of collage and into the working world, these same men tend to favor the shapely English lasts that were used by their elders also.
One of the most significant footnotes of all is that which involves a dark reddish brown Scotch grain shoe which is made on the English straight last with a noticeably rounded toe. The shoe has a straight toe-cap with heavy punching and has foxing on the side with bold punching. In connection with it, it would not be too much to say that it marks a new point of departure in shoes for university men.
Another model that is evidently finding favor with a number of undergraduates is a brown calf shoe with blucher front and three brass eyelets, all of which are oversize. The shoe has a very thick crepe sole and heel and its color is a dark reddish brown. Another popular reddish brown brogue has a square tapered toe and a blucher front; it features a sewn moccasin effect. Both shoes mentioned are important and in connection with them it is to be emphasized that the color is a dark reddish brown.*
*This is following the lead of the dark reddish brown suiting, also immensely popular at that time for country and town wear. It was offered in various patterns in woolen or worsted flannel types and often carried “dusted” (read fuzzy) chalk stripes or windowpane patterns.
Occasional wingtip brogues are also seen, but they are not overly popular. The Jai Alai shoe, on the other hand, has won immediate success at Yale and Princeton, as well as on other campuses, being seen in white and in white and black saddle. There is every reason to believe that the Jai Alai shoe of brown buckskin will be important for fall. With Jai Alai shoe being made in a reverse calf to resemble the brown buck—and not forgetting that the price is in its favor—it should attain considerable popularity during the coming season.
Interest is till being shown in the plain white buckskin shoe, as previously mentioned, and it can carry either red or black rubber soles and heels. The same shoe with a black saddle and red rubber soles and heels is favored by many. For town wear, and for more dressy occasions, one finds the black blucher straight toe-cap model on the English last highly favored. Calf shoes with plain, straight toe-cap are also in vogue for town wear; these shoes are not on the custom last but follow more directly the English straight last with narrow rounded toe.
HEADWEAR
The important hat of the university man is undeniably the dark brown snap brim model with a silk bound edge, the band being either brown or black. The hat is worn punched in at the front and the crown is worn in such manner as to form a long triangle with a point at the front.* The front of the hat, when snapped, usually carries of a few dips in it, affording a very nonchalant appearance.
*They are referring to what is also known as the tear drop crown style, when looking at the crown top from above.
The brown snap brim hat with a black band is really the headwear among university men and greatly in its favor is the fact that it can be worn to advantage with suits of any color. The same shaped model is often worn in a very dark grey, but at the present time this color is not on a par with the brown.
For town wear, there is the bowler hat and many of the better dressed under graduates wear it on their visits to the metropolitan centers. The favored shape has a full crown and rather, narrow brim.
WAISTCOATS AND SWEATERS
Among the more fashionable articles of dress at eastern universities is the Tattersall waistcoat with colored over plaids on cream colored grounds. One of its chief virtues is the fact that it fits in perfectly with mixed ensembles of odd jackets and slacks, with the colors of the waistcoat either blending or contrasting with the colors of the ensemble. Of late, considerable interest has also been shown in the solid color hunting yellow Tattersall waistcoat—at its best when worn with tweeds that come within the color range of the browns.
A vest which attracted attention at Princeton last fall was the wide wale cream colored corduroy waistcoat. This vest has been taken up by sportsmen throughout the country and will undoubtedly become a nation wide favorite with university men this coming fall. One of the newer notes is the return to the knitted vest. This garment, of course, is made on modern lines, being seen in solid colors which included yellow, white, natural camel’s hair color, wine, and light navy blue.
Sweaters are also of prime importance with university men who now favor the sleeveless pullover with either a V or a low cut crew neck. These are most popular in yellow and in white, although navy blue and wine* colored sweaters are becoming conspicuous on the campuses of the eastern universities. The natural color Shetland sweater is favored by a great many, being most fashionable in flat stitches. On the other hand, however, there is a sudden vogue for cable stitch which is so popular in the white tennis sweater with colored V’s.
*This wine color (in sweaters for men at least) is a pure English invention, and came from their collages without a doubt. First offered in cardigans likes and then eventually in other models. Actually it came with (then) a new model from the school of Harrow but that is all history…and at best left alone. For those who are interested, timeline is around early 33’ maybe late 32’ at the earliest.
FORMAL WEAR
For formal dances and other occasions when women are present, the university men’s choice is the tailcoat. The newer ones carry a spade-shaped tail that goes to the bend in the knee and which is rather high waisted. Shoulders are broad, while lapel are wide and straight* and are covered with dull ribbed silk.
*I have addressed this before but here it is again… this was the classic rule or rather an observation that large men can have more roundness in their lapels (peak specially) than shorter men. See lapels on Gary Copper as opposed to Fred Astaire’s… but both were wide when it came to peak lapels.
As for waistcoats, the white single breasted pique backless model with V front is the favorite. Dress shirts are a fine stripe or bird’s eye pique, wing collars are high with bold tabs, and the preferred tie is in the butterfly shape. Trousers are pleated and taper gracefully to the foot, while pumps or patent leather oxfords are preferred.
In dinner jackets, the one-button peak lapel model is favored and double breasted jacket with peak lapel is slowly gaining favor. With this is worn a soft shirt, or pleated shirt with fold collar, and a medium width butterfly tie. The white and black waistcoats divide honors. For campus wear, both with tailcoat and dinner jacket, the brown snap brim hat is usually worn,* while the collapsible opera hat is favored for metropolitan centers.
*This was even more so the case when an overcoat was used, in which case their preferred choice was the natural color camel’s hair polo coat and with that the hat went well. It should have been the homburg but these young men were shy of this type of headwear and never accepted it fully. Hence, the snap brim filled the bill for them in brown color but some times in grey. By the way… this was also a habit of Astaire to wear such casual headwear (pork-pie often) with black-tie.
ACCESSORIES
Knitted gloves—in solid yellow, brown and white—are ideal for the campus and their merits have been recognized by most undergraduates. There is also a dual trend toward both the grey and red Scotch knitted glove and the white knitted glove with colorful embroidered flowers which resemble the Swedish peasant patterns. For more dressy occasions, the white mocha glove and the yellow buckskin glove are all highly favored. Gauntlet models are, at the moment, preferred by students.
Plaid wool mufflers, Scotch Tartan wool mufflers and print wool mufflers are finding a widespread vogue and there are still many solid color Cashmere worn, with yellow and blue being the favorites. For formal wear, the white silk or imitation silk crochet muffler gets first call, although some university men who are more individual in their dress favor the pale yellow* with their evening clothes.
*Remember that this was the same sort of “smart” dressed set that started things like off-white shirts for evening wear. Here when they say pale yellow, read LIGHT yellow like cream or ivory.
In connection with the Scotch Tartan muffler, attention may be called to the sketch on the preceding page.* In addition to being appropriate for university wear this muffler possesses the further recommendation that it carries the stamp of approval of the Prince of Wales.
*They presented a sketch of a beautiful cashmere Scottish muffler in bright color and pattern.
Suspenders that are narrow in width and bright in color are much liked and, for the warmer season, belts of buckskin, cotton or some other washable material, with brass loops, are the favorites. Silk foulard handkerchiefs are worn by many and heavy gold safety pins are worn in the collars of soft shirts.
Below is a short statement that their (AA) editors wrote to clarify some of the sketches that accompanied this article. I think its important that you should read it also.
POINT-TO-POINT
Point-to-Point racing has always held a position as dear in the hearts of the British sporting world as the British lion itself. Today, with the increasing vogue for sports clothing in this country, it is only natural that we should turn to those who are recognized as authorities on this type of dress. And so we borrow from the British.*
These clothes seen on these pages, typical of the countryside, acknowledge their debt to out British cousins. In them, color plays an important role, while the soft, luxurious Shetlands and hand-loomed tweeds with colored checks and plaids not only lend atmosphere but provide welcome variation to the dull monotony of town clothing.**
*Let this be clearly understood.
**What a sentence to end this article with! And how true it is. For those who know the joys of country clothing with all its glorious offerings, see very little in the way of metropolitan standards of everyday dressing.
Alright…now that we are done with this detailed article above, let us look visually at some of the things that were mentioned in the article. And as they say a picture is worth a thousand words, well…here are the illustrations that all of you eagerly await.
This post I would like to start with something that was mentioned foremost in this article and if you have been paying attention… in various pervious posts also. The quintessential “collage uniform” so to speak of 1930s that was observed in various Northeastern campuses. This is from fall of 34’.
Image 4-20-18 at 8.00 PM (1) by The London Lounge, on FlickrI cannot stress enough to read and re-read this article above and then observe and re-observe this illustration here. I am extremely fond of this attire, even though I believe that the old rule of “no brown with grey” was on to something.
To start off with the details here, this jacket is of brown…guess? yep…Shetland that carries a dark over plaid and is in 3-button roll-lapel model with side vents. Jacket pockets are patch (with a flap) including the breast one…which is patch but without a flap… and the sleeve carries two buttons instead of the customary 4, which in turn signifies that without a doubt it is not part of a suit. Shirt is blue and white striped in oxford cloth with short rounded collar attached and worn pinned. Tie is striped crocheted one. Underneath the jacket is a sleeveless dark blue cashmere pull-over, which may appear black on screen but is actually blue. Pocket square is in foulard blue and white dotted motif. Pants are the classic flannel in a light grey color and are cut with two pleats and a pegged top, which taper gracefully to the shoes. They have self turn-ups instead of the usual pressed cuffs. … note the break (more on that below). Shoes are brown suede in a blucher model with crepe soles and heels. Also note that in addition to these, brown buckskin brogues are also a perfectly acceptable choice here. This ensemble is good for general country wear and golf. Last but not least, hat is brown felt snap brim model with a pinched crown and a dark brown band (can be black also…esp. if Princeton).
Before I go into the details…read below the original text from Esky version, which is actually more interesting than AA’s.
The combination of an odd brown jacket with grey flannel slacks is as old as the 1930’s. All but the extremely dumb undergraduates who were on hand to see this fashion at the time of its first importation from Oxford and Cambridge are out in the cruel world looking for jobs, but this outfit goes on without them
Here note that they are referring to the year 1930 when this fashion first caught on. Then later note the evidence on importation, which I also mentioned at the beginning of this article.
An interesting sidelight concerning the combination of odd brown jacket and grey flannel slacks is that which reveals its vogue as originating with English country gentlemen. From that class, it was but a step to the adoption of the combination by English university students. American students, always partial to odd combinations, were quick to take to this nonchalant, carefree type of dress. Today the brown jacket and grey slacks ensemble is a familiar sight on almost every campus, particularly in the East.
On blue and white shirting…
If universities are to be accepted as a proving ground for fashion—and nothing could be more logical—then considerable significance can be assigned to the fact that the striped oxford shirt in the round collar attached model is currently a very popular one with university men.
Now…note the overall easy fitting of the jacket…in particular the shoulder line and the trousers. If you are observant you will notice that in addition to being rather full in cut, the jacket is slightly long and the pants rather short. That is sort of a collage campus “blue-book” rule…if you must know. The heavy tweedy fabric is an excellent choice for this type of a cut, well articulated… even further by impeccable tailoring. This jacket is plain at the back (except side vents) but were you to observe an alternate illustration, it would not be much effort to locate a belted back, perhaps even the bi-swing pleats aforementioned. These bi-swing pleats by the way are also a golfing innovation. For those of you who are technically inclined, here is some info you might find useful; on a jacket on size 39 regular the estimated length is 31.5” at the back…which (goes without saying) is already 1.5” longer than the average of the time.
Now let us have a look at the suit…This is from early spring of 36’.
Image 4-20-18 at 8.00 PM (2) by The London Lounge, on FlickrThis suit here is a three button with lapel rolled to the middle button in brown Shetland with a bold over plaid. This here is a 3-pc model in which the waistcoat has been left at home. It carries side vents and slanting ticket pocket. This is somewhat of a unique example…more often than not, horizontal ticket pockets were observed on campuses. The shirt is of champagne color with collar attached and the tie is of deep reddish brown color and carries green dots. Pocket square is foulard and is in also green and red motif (different from the tie). Shoes are brown calf Norwegian model, hat is in “snuff” shade, snap brim like the one in the illustration above with a lower crown and slightly wider brim.
Note here, again, the longer jacket with full cut pants. Here the break is more obvious than in other instances. These large sized over plaid checks, Glen-Plaids or other prominent hunting checks are the trademarks of English country men or their students for that matter. This jacket can easily be substituted in place of the jacket in the first illustration. The main difference between this suit…shown here in Princeton…and the one observed say in Scotland, is that this one is made in a considerably light weight fabric whereas the other one will be in rather heavier.
Next having done with brown suit, let us view a green suit worn by university men during those days. This is from early 34’ season.
Image 4-20-18 at 8.01 PM by The London Lounge, on FlickrBoth of them are undergraduates on campus at eastern universities. There are two different things at work here. The left one should be very familiar, as it is nothing but another twist on the very first illustration of brown and grey. I will go over this quickly. The jacket on left is solid brown Shetland worn with a darker gray flannel slacks. Shoes here are brown buckskin with black soles and heels, which by the way were offered as an alternative in the first picture. Now what is different is the rest…that being, starting with the flannel shirt that is grey in color. Collar is short rounded model that is worn pinned. Note this scheme; same color in shirt and pants. Then tie is of rep variety with green and red, which go very well with the odd vest colors. The most interesting piece here is the use of Tattersall “weskit” of a yellowish flannel, which carries multi colored over plaid. The hat here is with black band and the gloves are yellow buckskin. It goes without saying that the absence of plaid in jacket is picked up at the vest, and that either one of these should be plain.
On the right we have something most interesting. For those of you who enjoyed the green DB tweed suit last post have another reason to rejoice here. Even for those who do not prefer green tweed DB’s…here is something in SB version and goes so far to tell you that how much you can push a green tweed suit (in terms of style), that is if you are really determined to do it. This here is probably the MOST formal cut you will ever see a green tweed suit in. This was presented here as the good old reliable “Brooks Brothers” model, which immediately makes you wonder what kind of suits they were producing back then. It is a 3-pc suit on which the vest is DB, six button in a V shape or diamond tip at the front. Jacket is 3-button roll lapel without any vents at the back. Fabric preferred choice was Harris tweed but there is no reason to put cheviot away either. Shirt is a brown glen-plaid oxford, and a solid red crocheted tie. Shoes are dark reddish brown calf. I think I ought to mention this, for I am not sure it is perfectly clear. Do NOT even think about attempting this in a green worsted fabric.
Now notice the cut of this suit, carefully. You will see that it… despite being in a country fabric, follows the lines of a metropolitan one. The pants are worn high at the waist and the vest pushed up…which by the way is a requisite for a suit of this model. Both jacket and vest carry lapels of ample width and note the link watch chain at the vest. Pants are full in cut as usual but taper down very gracefully in this case and end on top of the shoe. No break in either of these instances. Both jackets and pants are cut rather full or along easy lines…something that is helped immensely by the heavier fabric. What makes this ensemble a “student” one and not that of a metropolitan man is….yes you guessed it right…the shirt and the tie. Both of them add a considerable air of informality to the whole outfit. You may dispense with them and that was recommended as a matter of fact, especially if your taste runs more along the lines of subdued or citified. Consider a light blue (I mean Light here) or a light green shirt then choose the according tie, in either blue / green stripe or small neat dotted motif. You can also opt for a little yellow represented in either stripes on shirts or on tie but be careful with it. If you are in the mood for something really unique…you can pull the horizontal striped trick here…the one I explained in detail last time with the green DB tweed suit. As an alternative you can substitute that exact shirt and tie here with ease.
Observe the other options in shirt colors that are available. See the link.
Image 4-20-18 at 8.01 PM (1) by The London Lounge, on FlickrYou have blue, green, and lavender/ lilac or pink. Green is basic here and should be in the light color suggested. With blue go easy on the color as I explained above and finally lavender or pink, works very nicely with green, that is if you keep the shirt considerably lighter. Do NOT go to deeper shades with lavender…unless of course you don’t mind looking like an eggplant or…well…Barney.
It is often said that tweed suits, esp. green tweed are an acquired taste… much more so now in the era of super worsted fabrics and other synthetic materials. There may be some truth to it and I cannot deny that. However, acquired or not… there is something everlastingly unique about a green tweed suit. You known as well as I do that green is already not an easy color to pull-off or make it work. Tweed as a rough fabric adds more to this complexity with its rather rough nature… yet this is where I think these two characteristics merge very well and form something immensely tasteful to view. I personally am a devotee of brown over green…yet anytime I see somebody wear a green tweed suit properly (& that does not happen often), I want to tip my hat in their direction.
That should take care of the suits and odd jackets for the time being. Let us observe an example of overcoat, actually an Ulster as in this illustration below. This is from fall of 34’.
Image 4-20-18 at 8.00 PM by The London Lounge, on FlickrAs they say…cold weather goes with football games—and Ulsters go with both… this here is an Ulster of easy fitting cream colored Harris tweed with a rust over plaid and it carries camel hair interlinings. It is cut large and full and has a wide and high collar, which when turned over (as portrayed) ward off wintry cold blasts that one expects in Stadiums or other outer door place during winter. 9 out of 10 chances are he is wearing an odd jacket of Shetland underneath with obvious grey flannel slacks. Shoes are heavy brown brogues, the muffler is a cashmere Scotch plaid. The hat is the brown snap-brim with a bound edge. Crown is lower than usual and brim a tad bit wider. Gloves here should be yellow string, fleeced lined, which are considered smart accessories with this type of a coat.
This coat does not carry a belt in the back and has a center vent. See the extreme resemblance between this model and the one presented in last article; the grey one at the stadium. Even though Englishmen have no connection with football (at least as understood in US) they in country often wear this coat.
Now on the university favorite polo coat…something that was another university favorite article.
Speaking of football games, brings to mind the camel’s hair polo coat—for many years the favorite collage coat and an inveterate concomitant of the stadium wardrobe. This coat actually became a uniform on the various campuses throughout the country and may be said to have died of over popularity. Elsewhere in this issue, in the article entitled “Freaks of Fashion,” is recounted what happened to the polo coat when it became a plaything of the self-appointed fashionists.* But this seems as good a place as any to mention that last season saw the reinstatement of the coat in its authentic polo model. What the stylists would destroy they first over-exaggerate. And what well dressed men would revive they bring back in its original and authentic form.
*They are referring to the fate of polo coat in early 30s at the hand of “designers” of the time…who never satisfied with the original proportions, started tweaking them and pretty soon the whole affair got carried so far that it was barely recognizable as a polo coat any longer. This “freaks of fashion” is a stunning article that deals in depth with the problems that the apparel industry faced, at the hands of designers of the era…who were bent on twisting every new thing to an extreme and more importantly, the public…who was ready to follow them blindly during the times when they could not afford to make foolish mistakes.
On Scotch plaid cashmere mufflers… see last article for more info on mufflers.
The Scotch plaid Cashmere muffler, an interesting example of which is seen on the opposite page, is currently receiving more than its usual quota of attention. It is important to note that that attention is being accorded by men whose position as leaders of fashion counts for something, and it is interesting to note that those men are about evenly distributed on both sides of Atlantic.
Now…for the last illustration of this university related article. Probably the most beautiful of them all. This one is from Summer of 35’ but I am presenting it in this one because who known when will be the next related article.
Image 4-20-18 at 8.01 PM (3) by The London Lounge, on FlickrThere is much to be discussed in this illustration. I will explain this one by one. First the basic stuff…the son at the left is wearing a 3-pc suit in gabardine with the waistcoat left at home. The jacket is a 2-button SB model with lapel roll to…yes…that’s right what you see…the bottom button (detail below) with a seven inch center vent at the back. Shirt is white oxford button-down, hounds tooth check red and white cotton tie, white linen pocket square, horizontal striped lisle hose, white buckskin shoes with red rubber soles and heels, and a sennit straw hat with club colors on the band.
The father on right wears a DB grey flannel jacket that may as well be part of a suit with lapel rolled to the bottom button…a la Duke of Kent style, with side vents at the back. Trousers are of cricket cloth but can perfectly be of white duck, or just flannel, broadcloth tab collar shirt with deep blue stripes, guard’s rep tie of Royal Artillery, white pocket square, combination last sports shoes in brown & white buckskin and a brown snap brim hat on which the crown is Not pinched.
Time for details…
Look at the young man on the left in gabardine suit. Do you see an Americanized outfit? You should because that is precisely what this is. First of all his jacket is a 2 button roll to bottom…yes that dreaded style that none but the very few can correctly wear. I won’t say much on it…because it will take another 2-3 paragraphs easily… explaining where it works and where it won’t…
just remember this part…that the button stance is much higher than usual and the bottom button is only a little below the waist, which if you think about it, is high. That is the key here. This is not the paddock model with its stiff, horsey oriented lines…it is much different, much closer to a Brooks Brothers model of the era. Note the color scheme here in accessories. Color harmony should be the word as this is exactly what I explained some 5-6 months ago in summer articles. The hatband, tie, socks and shoes all come together to form something that is much more interesting than each in them self. Notice the natural fitting lines of the suit and the length of the pants which are short as to produce no break over the shoes.
The fashion conscious prep school or collage man in search of a smart ensemble after which to pattern his own attire would be hard put to it to beat the outfit sketched on the figure at the left. The fact that the ensemble is suitable for a prep school man takes nothing away from its appropriateness for the university undergraduate. As a matter of fact, the outfit is typical of those worn by collage men at the annual Yale-Harvard Regatta at New London, Connecticut.
Now look at the figure on the right…immediately you should recognize the heavy English influence in this case. As they said you don’t exactly have to be a spectator at a boat race to wear what the gent on the right is wearing because this is what most Englishmen happen to wear to such events.
Starting from the top, as you know…Englishmen never have (or had) a “thing” for the straw, so they do (or did) their best to use felt in every possible instance and this being no exception. Guard’s tie shout English if nothing else…esp. the pattern. Jacket is DB with eight inch side vents and a long roll lapel. So what else is there?
Look again…and you will realize that it has not only “Kent” style lapels but that button stance is in a “keystone” shape which eliminates the possibility of buttoning it at the middle one (Astaire’s favorite). You don’t have to have them in this configuration but this goes to tell you… that you have an option available. Grey and white is another English classic, then completing the ensemble are, the combination shoes. Note here the length of the pants…no break…none what so ever. Pants are full in cut but they taper down at the foot.
I don’t want the people from Harvard to fell all left out. Here is an amusing little note from Esky, on the university influences and carnations.
There’s a shot cheeyah for Haahvuhd in both these costumes, although in basic detail they are both right of the embattled lines that draw up at New London to watch the Harvard-Yale classic. Anyway, papa’s carnation is Harvard red, and there’s a Cantabridgian cast to the color scheme of son’s accessories. Yale men may solve this dilemma by substituting a blue cornflower for the Harvard red carnation—and so on throughout.
…On how to appear smart without striving for an effect of smartness…
There are two platitudes to set down about both of the ensembles sketched here. The first is that they attain the much-desired effect of nonchalance prized by many well dressed men and second is that, while they are smart, there is no attempt at unusual combinations. In fact, the outfits could be described as conservative dress. These ensembles are suitable for resort wear in practically all parts of the country.
I hope this is enough to stress on the key points that I have been trying to establish since the beginning of this article series. An understanding of concepts is Most vital and much needed over anything else. Here in this case… see for yourself, the outfit on the left is Americanized and the one the right is English. Both are perfectly correct for the occasion and traditional in themselves. Which one will you go for? It is you who will have to make the decision and that will be heavily influenced by your style…the development of which is of the utmost importance.
THIS ENDS SECTION 1 OF THIS ARTICLE
