Vol. I No. VI (Sept 05') CONCERNING SHOES from AA / ESKY
Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 7:54 pm
Dear Members,
While I was browsing for a proper subject for our upcoming fall series from AA / Esky, I thought of doing something different. Instead of going right away from our summer articles of interest to the fall ones, I thought maybe I should touch on a few other topics that may be of interest to you and that haven’t been covered before. So keeping that in mind I decide to start with footwear or shoes. I had the original text for an amazing article that appeared in AA spring of 32 (the 2nd issue of AA)! To my joy not only I had the full text from it but it was thoroughly a fun read. This again never made it to Esky…way too much detailed plus Esky didn’t even started till fall of 33’.
This article (presented below) will take you “behind-the-scenes” of shoe industry of that time. You will see the dynamics and evolution of incoming styles. Plus, I hope it will make you smile many times when you are reading it. Mainly because it addresses some truly unique issues that are never even though of anymore, and the best part is…it is Not addressed to the public But to the actual industry. The writers are AA (A. Gingrich’s crew) & their audience is the retail shoes industry of early 30s. Note the origin of many styles as they discuss in it and how these styles were being reported to the sellers.
The purpose of this to present you guys with many unique ideas and to help you understand the “rules” better. As I always say, at the end of the day you may dispense with all that they (AA / Esky) said…but do it once you have understood the rules fully….not merely because some designer introduced something in his / her recent collection.
All the original text is in Italics, the rest is my commentary. I have tried to explain things as much as possible. So….sit back relax…hopefully this will be fun to read.
From Spring of 32’
CONCERNING SHOES
In view of the recognized American habit of riotous feminine adornment, it is not surprising that a comparison of the volume of production of men’s shoes with that of women’s shoes in the years of peak production shows the former to have lagged behind the latter. What is more surprising, however, is that the volume of men’s production does not show as sharp a proportional decrease as does women’s during the past two years.* The obvious conclusion is therefore, that men in this country have never bought very much above their essential requirements; that is, they have never, as a mass buying public, bought much more than utilitarian foot coverings and it remains for the future to see whether an increase in the consumption of those extra shoes, those additional pairs that are designed each for its specific propose, will materialize.
*Remember that it was written in early 30s during the worst times of depression and that is what they are alluding to above.
WET FIRECRAKERS OF STYLE
Persons concerned with one or another of the branches of this great industry often wonder why they cannot put a certain style over “with a bang” when selling men’s shoes. The answer is just this: you cannot put anything over with any kind of bang unless you concern yourself with authentic fashions. Many of these “styles” sponsored by the shoe trade are bogus as far as real fashions are concerned, and in almost every case where grief has occurred in connection with the failure of one style or another, it has occurred in connection with styles which certain sponsors had “hoped” they would be able to sell. They were not authentic fashions first worn by men of social prestige, wealth or prominence, who are after all, the barometers that indicate the trend. A noteworthy example of failure in style promotion was the scheme that attempted to promote blue shoes for men. Now although many an odd fashion like the beret, or snap-brim hat, came into fashion because some celebrity happened to adopt it for his own comfort, no celebrity was sufficiently stirred to adopt dark blue shoes. They emerged from the fevered imagination of some manufacturer, or perhaps from the overcharged cerebral convolutions of some chemist in a leather tannery. And what happened—they were an outstanding flop! The same thing was true of other novelties, such as alligator shoes for men, which didn’t happen to be socially au fait before they were sponsored by shoe industry.
AX-GRINDING FASHIONS…
Fashion promotion, which has its basis in an effort to sell something merely because the manufacturer wants to sell it, also has its boomerangs. The most striking example of this occurred a number of years ago, in the promotion of black shoes. “Brown shoes are incorrect after six o’ clock” was the basic slogan in this campaign and this was a perfectly truthful statement as far as it went. But a fallacy cropped up as a sequel to this slogan –that any black shoe was formal and correct for evening wear. The idea that black shoes, any black shoes, could be worn with impunity for any and all occasions, led to the promotion of dull black calf oxfords for day wear and evening wear as well. The promotional scheme to sell more black shoes to men was instituted at the request of leather tanners who were not selling any appreciable quantities of black leather for men’s shoes. But it eventually resulted in the buying of only black shoes by the great bulk of American men. About 85% of the total volume for years has been in black shoes. Then came a campaign “Shoes Mark the Man” with efforts to teach men to buy correct shoes for the occasion.
It came nearer the mark than anything done before, but it was not sufficiently understood be the trade to be projected intelligently and consistently. The main thing wrong with the “Shoes Mark the Man” campaign was the fact that neither the producer nor the consumer in this country was prepared to carry it through. Even if the millions of consumers has seized upon the idea and attempted to put it into practice they would have been handicapped from the start because neither the stores nor the manufacturers has shoes to sell which represented the idea of particular type of shoes for the occasion. Shoes that were correct in pattern for city wear were wrong in leathers;--if in black, they were in pebbled grain, if in tan, they were in a shade to light for anything except the outdoor use.
The problem was to bring men into the stores to buy brown or tan shoes for certain occasions and black shoes for others. The matter of color was all important; the surface finish of different types of leather—an equally important feature was seldom touched upon in this era of pebbled and Scotch grain and brogue effects.
THE STYLIST’S BOOMERANG…
To go back to the origin of these styles. Years ago saw the first Scotch and English heavily brogued golf shoes for men, made by the best English boot maker to wear on golf courses in climates that were wet and misty more often than not. They were worn with heavy wool hose. Brought over to this country, the first models were enthusiastically adopted by the young collage men who found them ideal for use on campus paths or gravel or cinders. Incidentally, they made the success if heavy wool hose. Very soon these same shoes were duplicated in black as well as tan, and were worn by every younger man the country over for all occasions except the one for which they were designed.* There was very little difference between the shoes in black pebbled grain leather and the original shoes that were sold for playing golf. Younger men, and later older men too, bought one pair and made them serve—and serve. This naturally cut down an extra sale on a pair of smooth leather shoes of the more conservative type that had very little perforation and were of lighter weight than the heavy brogue shoes. But the greatest anachronism of all was the fact that majority of these shoes were in black instead of tan because men were beginning to learn that brown shoes after six were incorrect! It never occurred to the trade to remind them that black brogued types or any shoes suggesting a sports type, were also incorrect after six.
* This is to be clearly understood once and for all.
Plus, understand what they have said above. In other words merely substituting black leather does not entails that the shoe is a proper town one. Many details like the last, design and texture must be taken into account before making a proper decision. I am not a fan of generic statements such as “no-browns after this that” or “no black after then and this”…for these exact reasons. There are always some exceptions to be found. More on this below.
CINDERELLA IN BROWN…
As a matter of fact, brown shoes are perfectly correct at one minute after six if they were correct at one minute before six. The idea that every man must change into black shoes at the fatal stroke of six no matter what his attire happens to be, has all the ludicrous aspects of Cinderella’s predicament at the stroke of midnight. If evening dress is worn or if one happens to have on a dark suit, naturally he wears black shoes but if one happens to be wearing a dark brown, hard-finished worsted suit completed by brown topcoat and soft felt hat, and there is no occasion to dress in dinner coat or tails, then naturally he will wear shoes of dark reddish brown that are correct with this turnout. Should he happen to be caught after six o’ clock in this attire, correct in every detail, and is not required to dress for dinner, he is just as well dressed with brown shoes as he was before the ominous six o’ clock.
There…how is that for a change? Pay close attention here…
HOW TAN IS BROWN?…
Concerning shades of tan or brown calf. Tan is a short term for tannage, and does not indicate so much color as it does a range of shades in tanned leather. The browns so frequently seen this past fall in place of light tans in smooth boxed calf are rich reddish browns, not tan at all. Whereas last year they were worn in plain calfskin only in town with gray, blue and brown suits, this year one saw the frequently worn at sporting events in the country. It is true, however, that the shoes worn at these events were more brouged, or often-in moccasin effect slightly more sporty than the straight and wingtip, conservatively cut models worn in town. A good example of this type of calfskin is in Bourbon brown.
Lighter tan shades are used for trimming white buck shoes for summer wear, and the whole color scheme is lightened by their use in certain types of spring shoes. But the classic reddish brown seen at the Belmont Race Track and Meadowbrook last fall in place of light tans, is good all year round and is becoming more generally accepted. It is much more suitable for town wear in general than the very dark brown leathers such as cordovan, or tans that imitate cordovan.
FASHION IS FUNCTIONAL…
A breakdown of statistics regarding the fashion sponsored by men who are leaders here or abroad, at the famous men’s collages, at important sporting events, yield one fact. It is that certain fashions are worn and started as trends by men who have selected them for particular and specific uses. The man who wears those brown buckskins at the United Hunt for just an occasion as the Prince of Wales wore them several years ago, would not dream of wearing them to his office in Wall Street.
This above paragraph is one of the most important in this article. This IS the key note. See the whole movement of it, and how it changes over time when people follow a specific style.
THE FUNCTION FORGOTTEN
Promoted for town wear and made in patterns entirely divorced from the sporting scene, few men had the temerity to walk out on the city streets in them. Reduced to the simplest terms, it showed that brown buckskin shoes should be made in patterns suitable for sports event, for the country club, but not for town wear, yet the retailers became convinced that brown buckskin shoes for men would never sell when they did not succeed in promoting them after the visit of the Prince of Wales. The all white buckskin shoe has fortunately, however, been saved this fate. As a summer sport shoe, it is a real find, a success in fashion history, and its vogue has been steadily growing during the past two summers and at the winter resorts as well.
LAST SHALL BE FIRST…
“Lasts” are meant to be a technical subject about which only the very elect know anything and those few are careful to keep their own gifted council. As a matter of fact, lasts are always discussed first by an English boot maker.*
*This is early 1930s when they are writing this so make an educated guess as to who are they talking about. It shouldn’t be that hard.
He suggests one type for street shoes, another for sports shoes to be worn at important race meets, another for golf, and still another for evening shoes. The shape of the wood over which he makes his shoes is very carefully and precisely measured, not only to insure as perfect a fit as possible, but also to suggest the occasion for which the shoe is worn.
With scrupulous care he measures the forepart, accentuating the rounded or narrowed effect from the ball of the foot, not forgetting the detail about the heel that make for the cupped effect and gives a solid base. The method of making shoes in America is vastly different from the English method of turning custom made boots from custom made lasts.*
*Here when they mention “custom made” they are referring to a true bespoke product, not like how the phrase “custom-made” is used these days.
But if American methods do not attain the individuality of the English boot in their volume production, it can, however, be said for them that they are vastly superior to volume shoe production methods seen anywhere in the world today.*
*Sadly this is no longer necessarily true. First of few shoes are made in US these days and even then this can be debated against heavily.
American manufacturers are quick to adapt to little niceties of custom style to their volume produced shoes. They have not been slow to note the change in conservative daytime foot wear, and the increasing use in England of a last with straighter inner edge and more pointed toe.
The flange effect on the sole was first used on British-made shoes of heavier construction, not necessarily suitable for wear with sack suit.*
*When the they sack suit here, it means the business lounge suit.
English models of this type are displayed be leading American shops in their windows and clothes that suggest Wall street while in England they are worn only with country clothes. The extension sole of this flange was used with the idea that these shoes would be worn for walking; when the foot spreads, as it naturally does, it would not extend beyond the sole, and although this feature is not practically appropriate for city use, it has been taken up just as the pebbled grains and brogues, and exploited for the novelty of the idea rather than its intrinsic worth in connection with a definite type.
MISCASTING THE TYPES…
“Type” is what should be stressed—type of pattern, type of last, type of leather, even type of heel and sole, inherent with the type of shoe and the occasion for which it is designed. Certain types of patterns like the brogue golf shoes have been misused, so the newer pointed-toe last is starting on its American career in connection with every type of shoe, even sports models in white, or tan and black with white. Certain exclusive shops have ordered this last for every new shoe, in every leather, and it would not be surprising to see a spike-sole golf shoe made on this last making its appearance. Anyone familiar with shoes knows that this last calls for a slightly raised heel, a half lift higher than normal, and if used with its proper heel for sportswear the effect is ludicrous.
For several years men on the continent have had their evening shoes and formal pumps in patent colt made over lasts with narrowed toes, plenty of ball room, a snug fit around the ankle, and a slightly higher heel, which recalls those beautifully cut boots that grandfather wore in the 19th century. The soles are much lighter too. Clifton Webb*, popular dancer-comedian, who always look so much the well-groomed man without any of the eccentricities of dress so often affected by actors, was the first man who ever wore shoes of this type in this country. His evening shoes always gives that glove fitting appearance through the arch and around the ankle that good evening shoes should, and the leather is sleek enough and shiny enough to suggest the last touch of perfect formal turnout. Yet it would be entirely in line with past endeavors for someone in industry to duplicate this light weight, tin soled, high heeled, high arched model, suitable only for formal wear, and promote it in the country over for wear with sack suits and other informal clothes.
*See the suspense film “Laura” from 1944. A magnificent film in its own right not to mention the clothes worn by Webb….especially his character’s “waspish-sharp” tongue. Some members may remember a hilarious fitting scene from the film “The Razor’s Edge” where Webb is in Sulka store in Paris trying on a silk robe, and complaining about the fit to the staff.
White shoes are becoming more and more a feature of observation at every major sport event. The model that accounted for more than 30% of the total of all shoes worn at such events was a plain toe type with a black enamel leather sole. At Palm beach and in California, this model is also worn with a black rubber sole for yachting. There are a number of wingtip* and straight tip models with small or large broguings as well, but the plain toe shoe is the one most often seen.
This was depicted in the last AA / Esky (summer part 2) series illustration on the gent with a white suit.
THANKS TO SUMMER CLOTHES…
The adoption of linen suits and lighter weight summer clothes this past season was almost universal. The fashion is certain to show another big increase this coming summer and exert a direct influence in the types of shoes worn. Tropical worsteds, special cotton waves, and gabardine, are also increasing for summer wear, and this may mean an increase in brown or grey buckskin shoes, as well as the light weight types in brown, and combinations with white. White shoes trimmed with black and tan were worn extensively in the city as well as in the country this past summer.*
This must be noted that the suggestion of two-tone combination shoes in town was only reserved as a weekend or non business shoes, and even then only in summer months. They were never recommended for proper business wear.
This coming summer the regulation tan and white and black and white sport shoes, as well as shoes made in two contrasting surface leathers, such as pebbled or Scotch grain with a boxed or bordered calf in the same color, will be very good. These shoes have been worn more and more abroad since light colored Harris tweed with checks, Glen Urquhart plaids, and Shetlands, are being worn with darker contrasting trousers. Through steady promotion—being carried on right now for the next season—two leather shoes in one color can be linked with growing vogue. The plain toe shoe with saddle made of contrasting grain is good in two shades of brown or tan. On the Riviera last—year, it was seen in two white leathers, plain box calf with pebbled white, or white buck with white pig.
IN THE CABANA’S SHADE…
Tennis shoes are tennis shoes—but there is a new model from Fortnum and Mason in white buckskin instead of the usual canvas, made with a straight tip, on a light, pliable sole of leather and crepe. Canvas tennis shoes and espadrilles are worn oftener on the beach than for tennis by men on Rivera and at Long Island summer resorts. Noticed also at Southampton and Easthampton this past year was an increasing interest in rope soled beach slippers of canvas and the regulation sandals of the type worn by no less a person than Mahatma Gandhi, who would probably be surprised to learn that he is setting a fashion. In connection with beach wear, one wonders who long the well-turned out man will linger in the shade of the cabanas correctly attired as to clothing, wearing an old pair of bedroom slippers or no beach shoes at all. Of course the smooth white sand of out beaches makes it less necessary to wear beach shoes than do the rocky approaches of the beaches at the French resorts, but nevertheless, there is no reason why the correct type of men’s beach footwear should not be featured.
CHANGING GOLF FASHIONS…
One more word about golf shoes. With the increasing importance of the trouser, or tennis slack, for sports use in this country, there has come a trend away from the use of heavy woolen golf socks. Lighter weight woolen socks in small patterns have taken their place and the extremely heavy golf shoes with its thick solid sole is not comfortable with the lighter weight sock. At international golf matches abroad and at the National Open this year, players wore medium golf shoes in pebbled or boxed brown calf, moccasin or winged tip styles with leather soles, also white buck models. In England, gold shoes with a brouged, fringed tongue, extending down over the laces or thong, are worn extensively. The same style is also worn in lighter weight at the races; in this country, it is to be seen at Belmont and the Eastern boat races.
POTENCY OF PIGSKIN…
Pigskin, an ideal leather for men’s shoes, being light, flexible and at the same time extremely tough, is growing in importance. Saddle models are made combined with calf. In white, pigskin makes an interesting brown leather; in tan and brown, it is good looking and practical, but in black it looks all wrong as there is too much grain and surface interest for the type of the shoe that black leather suggests. White pigskin and white elk are wonderful leather for those unlined shoes worn in England for a number of years, which have just recently been introduced into this country. Unlined shoes of heavy calf, elk finish leathers, or genuine elk and pigskin, are ideal for golf wear or for all country footwear. They cling to the foot, and because they are made without seam or box toe, give great comfort, are wonderfully light and cool. Much can be said for the unlined shoe for informal wear. It will undoubtedly become a “natural” in men’s shoes for the coming season and be featured without regard to the occasion or the clothes with which it is worn.
CONCERNING CORECTNESS…
From observations made at the principal style centers, a few races about correct shoes. Shoes for town wear should be of simple design, with wither plain toe caps or perforated toe caps. They are correct in either dark reddish brown or black. Tan calf shoes with winged tips and slightly flanged are meant for country wear and although they are worn in town, are never considered part of the well-dressed man’s town kit. Light brown are meant for country or sports wear, where the atmosphere is more colorful—and are usually seen in brogue lasts, wing tips and flanged soles. Black shoes should be of simple design—never in grain or brogued to suggest a sport outfit.*
This is critical and should be remembered that the mere substitution of Black color in leather does not necessarily make for a proper town shoe but the design and the last must be in accordance also. As such, speaking of rules (Very Strictly here) the full brogue Black calf shoes is “incorrect” for proper town wear and certainly inappropriate for anything in the evening. This also goes true for other shoes (designed) of sporty origins. See below for further info… at text accompanying the illustrations.
Manufacturers should keep this fact in mind and make town shoes in plain, simple designs, country shoes as mannish as possible, and formal shoes fancy but masculine. If this policy were followed, we would see more men wearing the right shoe at the right time, and the shoe industry doing more business. In addition, shoe manufacturers and retailers must keep in touch with new styles—especially suitings. All ensembles are based on the suiting, and shoes must keep in step with everything else. During the past season the students at leading universities have been wearing heavy, shaggy Harris tweed which have called for grained brogue shoes and cordovan leathers, some which overlapping tongues. Thus cordovan, which has been in the discard for the past five years, is again an important item in the ensemble of the well dressed man.
Editor’s note…
While the foregoing article is correct and authentic in its comparisons of British and American Shoemaking, it should be borne in mind that certain fashions reported as growing in importance are, while perhaps important abroad, not yet of significant proportions on this side of the water. For example, the white buck with white pig, reported as a Riviera fashion of last year, has no appreciable fashion significance, as yet, in this country. The same is true of the pebbled grains with a boxed or bordered calf, as well as the pigskin. They are mentioned here simply as foreign news, and should not confuse the fashion picture which is correctly portrayed by the fashion forecast.
Now it should be remembered that these above mentioned latest articles were not being pushed forward as being “correct” in every instance. The purpose of them originally was as mentioned above in the editors note, and for the purpose of this post…there sole purpose is to provide you with many interesting and tasteful options. “Correctness” in dress and observed by well-established rules was always addressed by them specifically in separate pages and they (AA or Esky) were very strict about these matters. Below is a detailed guide to some of the most common footwear (that is still being worn in our times), and it’s related correctness plus the rules about it.
Here is a complete shoe collection that should be suffice the needs of most men except the very specific sport activities, which require particular kinds of shoes. So starting from Top to bottom and left to right….here we go…
Image 4-15-18 at 6.55 PM by The London Lounge, on Flickr
PATENT LEATHER PUMPS
Patent leather Opera pumps for formal and semi-formal evening wear. See the 2nd last shoe “Patent leather Oxford” for more detail. These had a long vamp & a dull grosgrain bow. It should follow the best English tradition in the way of last.
MONK FRONT BROWN CALF SHOES
The monk front is a rare shoe; neither too formal nor too casual it is sort of in between. Suede version is naturally more casual than calf ones. Originally best used for spectator sports wear, today these are worn by many in the city.
BROWN REVERSED CALF SHOES
These here are on a town last, which is interesting to note. This is the ultimate sporty / country shoe. Best suggested for spectator sports, country or very in-formal town use. This last phrase is very important and I cannot stress this enough. Even if you intend to use this with the best of your town suiting, you should at least understand the basic principle of it. Incidentally, these were a favorite of Duke of Windsor and Fred Astaire, both of whom used these with their town suitings thoroughly…and thereby shattered the old prejudice against them forever.
BROWN CALF NORWEGIAN BROGUES
These are of sporty origin also and as such recommended for country and spectator sports. It should be noted that this shoe is often made in black calf these days, and despite there being many elegant examples of such…nevertheless it is still a rather casual shoe.
BLACK CALF OXFORDS
The quintessential town shoe. The black calf cap-toe Oxford with leather sole. These pictured above are with plain toe-caps, i.e. undecorated. This is to town footwear what brown buck is to country / sporty events. An absolute must for every man’s wardrobe. Correct with dark city suitings and with day time semi-formal & formal wear.* Toe-caps can be punched or plain stitched. Medallions are permitted but remember the basic principle…more decoration, i.e. less formal. It should be noted that these were also offered on the English “straight” last, and were of waxed calf boned with deer bone.
*The only exception is the wing collar / ascot “full” morning coat ensemble.
Although, these days it can be worn with the full morning coat without much trouble….it is not best advised. This above mentioned look is the most formal of all day wear, and requires the light upper oxford at minimum with either button or lace closings.
Many men these days use this black oxford for their evening wear needs also. While it is not in the best of taste to wear it with evening wear…here is what you can do to modify the look a bit. If special ordering this particular shoe, order it without the toe-cap or even better use a “whole cut”. Then if it is desired for evening wear….simply change the laces to flat silk ones and viola! You are closer to the correct evening footwear than you think.
FRINGED TOUNGE SHOES
Brown wing-tipped brogues with overhanging tongues for golf or country wear. Popularized immensely by Duke of Windsor on golfing courses during the 20s & early 30s. Even in this day and age it is not recommended to wear these types of shoes with your city suiting….way too casual for that.
These shoes were also worn in Scotch grains with the above mentioned “flanged” soles. They were worn by students at Yale and Princeton rather extensively in combination with Harris Tweed and contrasting slacks.
BROWN CALF SHOES
These are basically the brown version of the above mentioned black oxfords, usually with slightly more decoration. Here depicted in a square last with perforated toe-caps. These are correctly worn with many city suitings. Back in 30s they were recommended by AA /Esky in dark reddish brown colors. Today they are preferred by many in lighter shades of brown, and often surpassing black shoes as a favorite form of town footwear.
A more casual alternative to these will be in reddish brown wingtip model, possibly in cordovan. That however is most suitable for country wear and walking in suburbs.
BLACK DRESS BOOTS
The “grand daddy” of all modern shoes in terms of formality. The “Most” formal day time foot wear you can (or could) possibly opt for….recommended for Formal daytime wear only. There is a smaller oxford version of this, which is equally correct in its use. Pictured here in black calf with fawn colored box cloth uppers. Other correct colors for uppers are; grey, ivory, biscuit, and white (for weddings only & used to be worn by groom when the DB vest was of off-white or white color). The color of the upper portion often matched that of the vest, but not always.
PATENT LEATHER OXFORDS
The most correct shoe (along with pumps) for formal evening wear. Perfect with either semi-formal (black-tie) or formal (white-tie) evening wear. These shoes usually (back in the day) had a high Cuban sole and high instep. It is best to wear this oxford with flat silk laces, if you can find them. Patent leather is the most traditional, however many men opt for plain calf due to the fragile nature & the look of patent leather. Even rarer is the use of plain black “Russia Calf” treated with the birch tar oil to give it a very distinctive shine, not to mention a unique aroma. Note that this shoe “correctly” speaking does NOT carry any toe-caps or broguing of the sort.
I think while we are at it let me mention something else also. These oxfords are “LESS” formal than pumps NOT more. In the matters of formality the pumps precedes the oxford shoe, whether in plain calf or patent leather. However, the velvet slip-on is indeed less formal than the evening oxford, and therefore best reserved for in-house use or at one’s club. For something truly unique and imaginative…try the opera pumps in black velvet with a grosgrain bow although it is Highly unlikely that you will ever find this article in RTW shoes.
BUCK SKIN HOUSE SLIPPERS
These are to be worn only at home. Most informal.
NORWEGIAN PEASANT SHOES (on the floor, left side)
These are best for lounge wear at club, home or summer / resort wear. Again, worn by many with suits these days.
BROWN FIELD BOOTS
In brown calf these are for true country wear or park riding. Also recommended for various activities in the vicinity of the Paddock area.
Below are some illustrations from Fall of 39’ these will show you the appropriate hosiery and what type of shoe to wear with specific articles of clothing. Descriptions are written on the illustrations.
TOWN & FORMAL EVENING FOOTWEAR
Image 4-15-18 at 6.55 PM (1) by The London Lounge, on Flickr
SKI AND WINTER RESORT FOOTWEAR
Image 4-15-18 at 6.55 PM (3) by The London Lounge, on Flickr
FALL WINTER TOWN & COUNTRY
Image 4-15-18 at 6.56 PM by The London Lounge, on Flickr
CRUISE AND RESORT FOOTWEAR
Image 4-15-18 at 6.56 PM (1) by The London Lounge, on Flickr
FOOTNOTES TO A SUMMER SHOE WARDROBE
Let us not forget the good old summer shoes. Now this illustration below is from summer of 34’ and actually it’s a small shoe cleaning advice from their editors. I was fortunate enough to recover the exact text for this, which is presented below in Italics; it is well written and rather amusing to read owing its debt to their editor’s witty comments. Shoes are pretty self explanatory since this is an actual picture rather than an illustration.
Image 4-15-18 at 6.56 PM (2) by The London Lounge, on Flickr
The picture tells the story of the various shoes but the matter of their care is a story itself. First, it is almost as important to tree your shoes, upon retiring, as it is to remove them. Next (unless you have a valet—and don’t we have all?) you must clean them. To take the new look off brown calf shoes, vary the shade of polish –a dark brown one day and a deep red, like the famous Royal Navy Dressing, the next. After applying polish, brush, then rub in Meltonian Cream, then polish the shoes briskly. White and white trimmed shoes require a liquid paste that won’t rub off. To get a high shine on white buck skin, use Coates Polish on Turkish toweling, let dry, then rub with soft cloth. Contrary to what you hear, don’t use a wire brush on brown buckskin—use an old hairbrush. Coat the edges of soles and heels with black waterproof enamel. Clean the leather trimming on white shoes with a neutral Meltonian Cream.
Finally remember the primary purpose of this whole article is to help you understand the evolution of some of these styles and the whole movement behind the rules and regulations. Ultimately you should be able to take many interesting ideas from this and help establish your own style in a tasteful manner. That is most important of all.
Hope this is sufficient for the time being.
Sincerely
tutee
Edit for date change
This above article appeared in Spring of 32' Not spring of 33'. AA started in winter of 31' therefore spring 32' was the 2nd issue published. I have corrected the dates above.
While I was browsing for a proper subject for our upcoming fall series from AA / Esky, I thought of doing something different. Instead of going right away from our summer articles of interest to the fall ones, I thought maybe I should touch on a few other topics that may be of interest to you and that haven’t been covered before. So keeping that in mind I decide to start with footwear or shoes. I had the original text for an amazing article that appeared in AA spring of 32 (the 2nd issue of AA)! To my joy not only I had the full text from it but it was thoroughly a fun read. This again never made it to Esky…way too much detailed plus Esky didn’t even started till fall of 33’.
This article (presented below) will take you “behind-the-scenes” of shoe industry of that time. You will see the dynamics and evolution of incoming styles. Plus, I hope it will make you smile many times when you are reading it. Mainly because it addresses some truly unique issues that are never even though of anymore, and the best part is…it is Not addressed to the public But to the actual industry. The writers are AA (A. Gingrich’s crew) & their audience is the retail shoes industry of early 30s. Note the origin of many styles as they discuss in it and how these styles were being reported to the sellers.
The purpose of this to present you guys with many unique ideas and to help you understand the “rules” better. As I always say, at the end of the day you may dispense with all that they (AA / Esky) said…but do it once you have understood the rules fully….not merely because some designer introduced something in his / her recent collection.
All the original text is in Italics, the rest is my commentary. I have tried to explain things as much as possible. So….sit back relax…hopefully this will be fun to read.
From Spring of 32’
CONCERNING SHOES
In view of the recognized American habit of riotous feminine adornment, it is not surprising that a comparison of the volume of production of men’s shoes with that of women’s shoes in the years of peak production shows the former to have lagged behind the latter. What is more surprising, however, is that the volume of men’s production does not show as sharp a proportional decrease as does women’s during the past two years.* The obvious conclusion is therefore, that men in this country have never bought very much above their essential requirements; that is, they have never, as a mass buying public, bought much more than utilitarian foot coverings and it remains for the future to see whether an increase in the consumption of those extra shoes, those additional pairs that are designed each for its specific propose, will materialize.
*Remember that it was written in early 30s during the worst times of depression and that is what they are alluding to above.
WET FIRECRAKERS OF STYLE
Persons concerned with one or another of the branches of this great industry often wonder why they cannot put a certain style over “with a bang” when selling men’s shoes. The answer is just this: you cannot put anything over with any kind of bang unless you concern yourself with authentic fashions. Many of these “styles” sponsored by the shoe trade are bogus as far as real fashions are concerned, and in almost every case where grief has occurred in connection with the failure of one style or another, it has occurred in connection with styles which certain sponsors had “hoped” they would be able to sell. They were not authentic fashions first worn by men of social prestige, wealth or prominence, who are after all, the barometers that indicate the trend. A noteworthy example of failure in style promotion was the scheme that attempted to promote blue shoes for men. Now although many an odd fashion like the beret, or snap-brim hat, came into fashion because some celebrity happened to adopt it for his own comfort, no celebrity was sufficiently stirred to adopt dark blue shoes. They emerged from the fevered imagination of some manufacturer, or perhaps from the overcharged cerebral convolutions of some chemist in a leather tannery. And what happened—they were an outstanding flop! The same thing was true of other novelties, such as alligator shoes for men, which didn’t happen to be socially au fait before they were sponsored by shoe industry.
AX-GRINDING FASHIONS…
Fashion promotion, which has its basis in an effort to sell something merely because the manufacturer wants to sell it, also has its boomerangs. The most striking example of this occurred a number of years ago, in the promotion of black shoes. “Brown shoes are incorrect after six o’ clock” was the basic slogan in this campaign and this was a perfectly truthful statement as far as it went. But a fallacy cropped up as a sequel to this slogan –that any black shoe was formal and correct for evening wear. The idea that black shoes, any black shoes, could be worn with impunity for any and all occasions, led to the promotion of dull black calf oxfords for day wear and evening wear as well. The promotional scheme to sell more black shoes to men was instituted at the request of leather tanners who were not selling any appreciable quantities of black leather for men’s shoes. But it eventually resulted in the buying of only black shoes by the great bulk of American men. About 85% of the total volume for years has been in black shoes. Then came a campaign “Shoes Mark the Man” with efforts to teach men to buy correct shoes for the occasion.
It came nearer the mark than anything done before, but it was not sufficiently understood be the trade to be projected intelligently and consistently. The main thing wrong with the “Shoes Mark the Man” campaign was the fact that neither the producer nor the consumer in this country was prepared to carry it through. Even if the millions of consumers has seized upon the idea and attempted to put it into practice they would have been handicapped from the start because neither the stores nor the manufacturers has shoes to sell which represented the idea of particular type of shoes for the occasion. Shoes that were correct in pattern for city wear were wrong in leathers;--if in black, they were in pebbled grain, if in tan, they were in a shade to light for anything except the outdoor use.
The problem was to bring men into the stores to buy brown or tan shoes for certain occasions and black shoes for others. The matter of color was all important; the surface finish of different types of leather—an equally important feature was seldom touched upon in this era of pebbled and Scotch grain and brogue effects.
THE STYLIST’S BOOMERANG…
To go back to the origin of these styles. Years ago saw the first Scotch and English heavily brogued golf shoes for men, made by the best English boot maker to wear on golf courses in climates that were wet and misty more often than not. They were worn with heavy wool hose. Brought over to this country, the first models were enthusiastically adopted by the young collage men who found them ideal for use on campus paths or gravel or cinders. Incidentally, they made the success if heavy wool hose. Very soon these same shoes were duplicated in black as well as tan, and were worn by every younger man the country over for all occasions except the one for which they were designed.* There was very little difference between the shoes in black pebbled grain leather and the original shoes that were sold for playing golf. Younger men, and later older men too, bought one pair and made them serve—and serve. This naturally cut down an extra sale on a pair of smooth leather shoes of the more conservative type that had very little perforation and were of lighter weight than the heavy brogue shoes. But the greatest anachronism of all was the fact that majority of these shoes were in black instead of tan because men were beginning to learn that brown shoes after six were incorrect! It never occurred to the trade to remind them that black brogued types or any shoes suggesting a sports type, were also incorrect after six.
* This is to be clearly understood once and for all.
Plus, understand what they have said above. In other words merely substituting black leather does not entails that the shoe is a proper town one. Many details like the last, design and texture must be taken into account before making a proper decision. I am not a fan of generic statements such as “no-browns after this that” or “no black after then and this”…for these exact reasons. There are always some exceptions to be found. More on this below.
CINDERELLA IN BROWN…
As a matter of fact, brown shoes are perfectly correct at one minute after six if they were correct at one minute before six. The idea that every man must change into black shoes at the fatal stroke of six no matter what his attire happens to be, has all the ludicrous aspects of Cinderella’s predicament at the stroke of midnight. If evening dress is worn or if one happens to have on a dark suit, naturally he wears black shoes but if one happens to be wearing a dark brown, hard-finished worsted suit completed by brown topcoat and soft felt hat, and there is no occasion to dress in dinner coat or tails, then naturally he will wear shoes of dark reddish brown that are correct with this turnout. Should he happen to be caught after six o’ clock in this attire, correct in every detail, and is not required to dress for dinner, he is just as well dressed with brown shoes as he was before the ominous six o’ clock.
There…how is that for a change? Pay close attention here…
HOW TAN IS BROWN?…
Concerning shades of tan or brown calf. Tan is a short term for tannage, and does not indicate so much color as it does a range of shades in tanned leather. The browns so frequently seen this past fall in place of light tans in smooth boxed calf are rich reddish browns, not tan at all. Whereas last year they were worn in plain calfskin only in town with gray, blue and brown suits, this year one saw the frequently worn at sporting events in the country. It is true, however, that the shoes worn at these events were more brouged, or often-in moccasin effect slightly more sporty than the straight and wingtip, conservatively cut models worn in town. A good example of this type of calfskin is in Bourbon brown.
Lighter tan shades are used for trimming white buck shoes for summer wear, and the whole color scheme is lightened by their use in certain types of spring shoes. But the classic reddish brown seen at the Belmont Race Track and Meadowbrook last fall in place of light tans, is good all year round and is becoming more generally accepted. It is much more suitable for town wear in general than the very dark brown leathers such as cordovan, or tans that imitate cordovan.
FASHION IS FUNCTIONAL…
A breakdown of statistics regarding the fashion sponsored by men who are leaders here or abroad, at the famous men’s collages, at important sporting events, yield one fact. It is that certain fashions are worn and started as trends by men who have selected them for particular and specific uses. The man who wears those brown buckskins at the United Hunt for just an occasion as the Prince of Wales wore them several years ago, would not dream of wearing them to his office in Wall Street.
This above paragraph is one of the most important in this article. This IS the key note. See the whole movement of it, and how it changes over time when people follow a specific style.
THE FUNCTION FORGOTTEN
Promoted for town wear and made in patterns entirely divorced from the sporting scene, few men had the temerity to walk out on the city streets in them. Reduced to the simplest terms, it showed that brown buckskin shoes should be made in patterns suitable for sports event, for the country club, but not for town wear, yet the retailers became convinced that brown buckskin shoes for men would never sell when they did not succeed in promoting them after the visit of the Prince of Wales. The all white buckskin shoe has fortunately, however, been saved this fate. As a summer sport shoe, it is a real find, a success in fashion history, and its vogue has been steadily growing during the past two summers and at the winter resorts as well.
LAST SHALL BE FIRST…
“Lasts” are meant to be a technical subject about which only the very elect know anything and those few are careful to keep their own gifted council. As a matter of fact, lasts are always discussed first by an English boot maker.*
*This is early 1930s when they are writing this so make an educated guess as to who are they talking about. It shouldn’t be that hard.
He suggests one type for street shoes, another for sports shoes to be worn at important race meets, another for golf, and still another for evening shoes. The shape of the wood over which he makes his shoes is very carefully and precisely measured, not only to insure as perfect a fit as possible, but also to suggest the occasion for which the shoe is worn.
With scrupulous care he measures the forepart, accentuating the rounded or narrowed effect from the ball of the foot, not forgetting the detail about the heel that make for the cupped effect and gives a solid base. The method of making shoes in America is vastly different from the English method of turning custom made boots from custom made lasts.*
*Here when they mention “custom made” they are referring to a true bespoke product, not like how the phrase “custom-made” is used these days.
But if American methods do not attain the individuality of the English boot in their volume production, it can, however, be said for them that they are vastly superior to volume shoe production methods seen anywhere in the world today.*
*Sadly this is no longer necessarily true. First of few shoes are made in US these days and even then this can be debated against heavily.
American manufacturers are quick to adapt to little niceties of custom style to their volume produced shoes. They have not been slow to note the change in conservative daytime foot wear, and the increasing use in England of a last with straighter inner edge and more pointed toe.
The flange effect on the sole was first used on British-made shoes of heavier construction, not necessarily suitable for wear with sack suit.*
*When the they sack suit here, it means the business lounge suit.
English models of this type are displayed be leading American shops in their windows and clothes that suggest Wall street while in England they are worn only with country clothes. The extension sole of this flange was used with the idea that these shoes would be worn for walking; when the foot spreads, as it naturally does, it would not extend beyond the sole, and although this feature is not practically appropriate for city use, it has been taken up just as the pebbled grains and brogues, and exploited for the novelty of the idea rather than its intrinsic worth in connection with a definite type.
MISCASTING THE TYPES…
“Type” is what should be stressed—type of pattern, type of last, type of leather, even type of heel and sole, inherent with the type of shoe and the occasion for which it is designed. Certain types of patterns like the brogue golf shoes have been misused, so the newer pointed-toe last is starting on its American career in connection with every type of shoe, even sports models in white, or tan and black with white. Certain exclusive shops have ordered this last for every new shoe, in every leather, and it would not be surprising to see a spike-sole golf shoe made on this last making its appearance. Anyone familiar with shoes knows that this last calls for a slightly raised heel, a half lift higher than normal, and if used with its proper heel for sportswear the effect is ludicrous.
For several years men on the continent have had their evening shoes and formal pumps in patent colt made over lasts with narrowed toes, plenty of ball room, a snug fit around the ankle, and a slightly higher heel, which recalls those beautifully cut boots that grandfather wore in the 19th century. The soles are much lighter too. Clifton Webb*, popular dancer-comedian, who always look so much the well-groomed man without any of the eccentricities of dress so often affected by actors, was the first man who ever wore shoes of this type in this country. His evening shoes always gives that glove fitting appearance through the arch and around the ankle that good evening shoes should, and the leather is sleek enough and shiny enough to suggest the last touch of perfect formal turnout. Yet it would be entirely in line with past endeavors for someone in industry to duplicate this light weight, tin soled, high heeled, high arched model, suitable only for formal wear, and promote it in the country over for wear with sack suits and other informal clothes.
*See the suspense film “Laura” from 1944. A magnificent film in its own right not to mention the clothes worn by Webb….especially his character’s “waspish-sharp” tongue. Some members may remember a hilarious fitting scene from the film “The Razor’s Edge” where Webb is in Sulka store in Paris trying on a silk robe, and complaining about the fit to the staff.
White shoes are becoming more and more a feature of observation at every major sport event. The model that accounted for more than 30% of the total of all shoes worn at such events was a plain toe type with a black enamel leather sole. At Palm beach and in California, this model is also worn with a black rubber sole for yachting. There are a number of wingtip* and straight tip models with small or large broguings as well, but the plain toe shoe is the one most often seen.
This was depicted in the last AA / Esky (summer part 2) series illustration on the gent with a white suit.
THANKS TO SUMMER CLOTHES…
The adoption of linen suits and lighter weight summer clothes this past season was almost universal. The fashion is certain to show another big increase this coming summer and exert a direct influence in the types of shoes worn. Tropical worsteds, special cotton waves, and gabardine, are also increasing for summer wear, and this may mean an increase in brown or grey buckskin shoes, as well as the light weight types in brown, and combinations with white. White shoes trimmed with black and tan were worn extensively in the city as well as in the country this past summer.*
This must be noted that the suggestion of two-tone combination shoes in town was only reserved as a weekend or non business shoes, and even then only in summer months. They were never recommended for proper business wear.
This coming summer the regulation tan and white and black and white sport shoes, as well as shoes made in two contrasting surface leathers, such as pebbled or Scotch grain with a boxed or bordered calf in the same color, will be very good. These shoes have been worn more and more abroad since light colored Harris tweed with checks, Glen Urquhart plaids, and Shetlands, are being worn with darker contrasting trousers. Through steady promotion—being carried on right now for the next season—two leather shoes in one color can be linked with growing vogue. The plain toe shoe with saddle made of contrasting grain is good in two shades of brown or tan. On the Riviera last—year, it was seen in two white leathers, plain box calf with pebbled white, or white buck with white pig.
IN THE CABANA’S SHADE…
Tennis shoes are tennis shoes—but there is a new model from Fortnum and Mason in white buckskin instead of the usual canvas, made with a straight tip, on a light, pliable sole of leather and crepe. Canvas tennis shoes and espadrilles are worn oftener on the beach than for tennis by men on Rivera and at Long Island summer resorts. Noticed also at Southampton and Easthampton this past year was an increasing interest in rope soled beach slippers of canvas and the regulation sandals of the type worn by no less a person than Mahatma Gandhi, who would probably be surprised to learn that he is setting a fashion. In connection with beach wear, one wonders who long the well-turned out man will linger in the shade of the cabanas correctly attired as to clothing, wearing an old pair of bedroom slippers or no beach shoes at all. Of course the smooth white sand of out beaches makes it less necessary to wear beach shoes than do the rocky approaches of the beaches at the French resorts, but nevertheless, there is no reason why the correct type of men’s beach footwear should not be featured.
CHANGING GOLF FASHIONS…
One more word about golf shoes. With the increasing importance of the trouser, or tennis slack, for sports use in this country, there has come a trend away from the use of heavy woolen golf socks. Lighter weight woolen socks in small patterns have taken their place and the extremely heavy golf shoes with its thick solid sole is not comfortable with the lighter weight sock. At international golf matches abroad and at the National Open this year, players wore medium golf shoes in pebbled or boxed brown calf, moccasin or winged tip styles with leather soles, also white buck models. In England, gold shoes with a brouged, fringed tongue, extending down over the laces or thong, are worn extensively. The same style is also worn in lighter weight at the races; in this country, it is to be seen at Belmont and the Eastern boat races.
POTENCY OF PIGSKIN…
Pigskin, an ideal leather for men’s shoes, being light, flexible and at the same time extremely tough, is growing in importance. Saddle models are made combined with calf. In white, pigskin makes an interesting brown leather; in tan and brown, it is good looking and practical, but in black it looks all wrong as there is too much grain and surface interest for the type of the shoe that black leather suggests. White pigskin and white elk are wonderful leather for those unlined shoes worn in England for a number of years, which have just recently been introduced into this country. Unlined shoes of heavy calf, elk finish leathers, or genuine elk and pigskin, are ideal for golf wear or for all country footwear. They cling to the foot, and because they are made without seam or box toe, give great comfort, are wonderfully light and cool. Much can be said for the unlined shoe for informal wear. It will undoubtedly become a “natural” in men’s shoes for the coming season and be featured without regard to the occasion or the clothes with which it is worn.
CONCERNING CORECTNESS…
From observations made at the principal style centers, a few races about correct shoes. Shoes for town wear should be of simple design, with wither plain toe caps or perforated toe caps. They are correct in either dark reddish brown or black. Tan calf shoes with winged tips and slightly flanged are meant for country wear and although they are worn in town, are never considered part of the well-dressed man’s town kit. Light brown are meant for country or sports wear, where the atmosphere is more colorful—and are usually seen in brogue lasts, wing tips and flanged soles. Black shoes should be of simple design—never in grain or brogued to suggest a sport outfit.*
This is critical and should be remembered that the mere substitution of Black color in leather does not necessarily make for a proper town shoe but the design and the last must be in accordance also. As such, speaking of rules (Very Strictly here) the full brogue Black calf shoes is “incorrect” for proper town wear and certainly inappropriate for anything in the evening. This also goes true for other shoes (designed) of sporty origins. See below for further info… at text accompanying the illustrations.
Manufacturers should keep this fact in mind and make town shoes in plain, simple designs, country shoes as mannish as possible, and formal shoes fancy but masculine. If this policy were followed, we would see more men wearing the right shoe at the right time, and the shoe industry doing more business. In addition, shoe manufacturers and retailers must keep in touch with new styles—especially suitings. All ensembles are based on the suiting, and shoes must keep in step with everything else. During the past season the students at leading universities have been wearing heavy, shaggy Harris tweed which have called for grained brogue shoes and cordovan leathers, some which overlapping tongues. Thus cordovan, which has been in the discard for the past five years, is again an important item in the ensemble of the well dressed man.
Editor’s note…
While the foregoing article is correct and authentic in its comparisons of British and American Shoemaking, it should be borne in mind that certain fashions reported as growing in importance are, while perhaps important abroad, not yet of significant proportions on this side of the water. For example, the white buck with white pig, reported as a Riviera fashion of last year, has no appreciable fashion significance, as yet, in this country. The same is true of the pebbled grains with a boxed or bordered calf, as well as the pigskin. They are mentioned here simply as foreign news, and should not confuse the fashion picture which is correctly portrayed by the fashion forecast.
Now it should be remembered that these above mentioned latest articles were not being pushed forward as being “correct” in every instance. The purpose of them originally was as mentioned above in the editors note, and for the purpose of this post…there sole purpose is to provide you with many interesting and tasteful options. “Correctness” in dress and observed by well-established rules was always addressed by them specifically in separate pages and they (AA or Esky) were very strict about these matters. Below is a detailed guide to some of the most common footwear (that is still being worn in our times), and it’s related correctness plus the rules about it.
Here is a complete shoe collection that should be suffice the needs of most men except the very specific sport activities, which require particular kinds of shoes. So starting from Top to bottom and left to right….here we go…
Image 4-15-18 at 6.55 PM by The London Lounge, on FlickrPATENT LEATHER PUMPS
Patent leather Opera pumps for formal and semi-formal evening wear. See the 2nd last shoe “Patent leather Oxford” for more detail. These had a long vamp & a dull grosgrain bow. It should follow the best English tradition in the way of last.
MONK FRONT BROWN CALF SHOES
The monk front is a rare shoe; neither too formal nor too casual it is sort of in between. Suede version is naturally more casual than calf ones. Originally best used for spectator sports wear, today these are worn by many in the city.
BROWN REVERSED CALF SHOES
These here are on a town last, which is interesting to note. This is the ultimate sporty / country shoe. Best suggested for spectator sports, country or very in-formal town use. This last phrase is very important and I cannot stress this enough. Even if you intend to use this with the best of your town suiting, you should at least understand the basic principle of it. Incidentally, these were a favorite of Duke of Windsor and Fred Astaire, both of whom used these with their town suitings thoroughly…and thereby shattered the old prejudice against them forever.
BROWN CALF NORWEGIAN BROGUES
These are of sporty origin also and as such recommended for country and spectator sports. It should be noted that this shoe is often made in black calf these days, and despite there being many elegant examples of such…nevertheless it is still a rather casual shoe.
BLACK CALF OXFORDS
The quintessential town shoe. The black calf cap-toe Oxford with leather sole. These pictured above are with plain toe-caps, i.e. undecorated. This is to town footwear what brown buck is to country / sporty events. An absolute must for every man’s wardrobe. Correct with dark city suitings and with day time semi-formal & formal wear.* Toe-caps can be punched or plain stitched. Medallions are permitted but remember the basic principle…more decoration, i.e. less formal. It should be noted that these were also offered on the English “straight” last, and were of waxed calf boned with deer bone.
*The only exception is the wing collar / ascot “full” morning coat ensemble.
Although, these days it can be worn with the full morning coat without much trouble….it is not best advised. This above mentioned look is the most formal of all day wear, and requires the light upper oxford at minimum with either button or lace closings.
Many men these days use this black oxford for their evening wear needs also. While it is not in the best of taste to wear it with evening wear…here is what you can do to modify the look a bit. If special ordering this particular shoe, order it without the toe-cap or even better use a “whole cut”. Then if it is desired for evening wear….simply change the laces to flat silk ones and viola! You are closer to the correct evening footwear than you think.
FRINGED TOUNGE SHOES
Brown wing-tipped brogues with overhanging tongues for golf or country wear. Popularized immensely by Duke of Windsor on golfing courses during the 20s & early 30s. Even in this day and age it is not recommended to wear these types of shoes with your city suiting….way too casual for that.
These shoes were also worn in Scotch grains with the above mentioned “flanged” soles. They were worn by students at Yale and Princeton rather extensively in combination with Harris Tweed and contrasting slacks.
BROWN CALF SHOES
These are basically the brown version of the above mentioned black oxfords, usually with slightly more decoration. Here depicted in a square last with perforated toe-caps. These are correctly worn with many city suitings. Back in 30s they were recommended by AA /Esky in dark reddish brown colors. Today they are preferred by many in lighter shades of brown, and often surpassing black shoes as a favorite form of town footwear.
A more casual alternative to these will be in reddish brown wingtip model, possibly in cordovan. That however is most suitable for country wear and walking in suburbs.
BLACK DRESS BOOTS
The “grand daddy” of all modern shoes in terms of formality. The “Most” formal day time foot wear you can (or could) possibly opt for….recommended for Formal daytime wear only. There is a smaller oxford version of this, which is equally correct in its use. Pictured here in black calf with fawn colored box cloth uppers. Other correct colors for uppers are; grey, ivory, biscuit, and white (for weddings only & used to be worn by groom when the DB vest was of off-white or white color). The color of the upper portion often matched that of the vest, but not always.
PATENT LEATHER OXFORDS
The most correct shoe (along with pumps) for formal evening wear. Perfect with either semi-formal (black-tie) or formal (white-tie) evening wear. These shoes usually (back in the day) had a high Cuban sole and high instep. It is best to wear this oxford with flat silk laces, if you can find them. Patent leather is the most traditional, however many men opt for plain calf due to the fragile nature & the look of patent leather. Even rarer is the use of plain black “Russia Calf” treated with the birch tar oil to give it a very distinctive shine, not to mention a unique aroma. Note that this shoe “correctly” speaking does NOT carry any toe-caps or broguing of the sort.
I think while we are at it let me mention something else also. These oxfords are “LESS” formal than pumps NOT more. In the matters of formality the pumps precedes the oxford shoe, whether in plain calf or patent leather. However, the velvet slip-on is indeed less formal than the evening oxford, and therefore best reserved for in-house use or at one’s club. For something truly unique and imaginative…try the opera pumps in black velvet with a grosgrain bow although it is Highly unlikely that you will ever find this article in RTW shoes.
BUCK SKIN HOUSE SLIPPERS
These are to be worn only at home. Most informal.
NORWEGIAN PEASANT SHOES (on the floor, left side)
These are best for lounge wear at club, home or summer / resort wear. Again, worn by many with suits these days.
BROWN FIELD BOOTS
In brown calf these are for true country wear or park riding. Also recommended for various activities in the vicinity of the Paddock area.
Below are some illustrations from Fall of 39’ these will show you the appropriate hosiery and what type of shoe to wear with specific articles of clothing. Descriptions are written on the illustrations.
TOWN & FORMAL EVENING FOOTWEAR
Image 4-15-18 at 6.55 PM (1) by The London Lounge, on FlickrSKI AND WINTER RESORT FOOTWEAR
Image 4-15-18 at 6.55 PM (3) by The London Lounge, on FlickrFALL WINTER TOWN & COUNTRY
Image 4-15-18 at 6.56 PM by The London Lounge, on FlickrCRUISE AND RESORT FOOTWEAR
Image 4-15-18 at 6.56 PM (1) by The London Lounge, on FlickrFOOTNOTES TO A SUMMER SHOE WARDROBE
Let us not forget the good old summer shoes. Now this illustration below is from summer of 34’ and actually it’s a small shoe cleaning advice from their editors. I was fortunate enough to recover the exact text for this, which is presented below in Italics; it is well written and rather amusing to read owing its debt to their editor’s witty comments. Shoes are pretty self explanatory since this is an actual picture rather than an illustration.
Image 4-15-18 at 6.56 PM (2) by The London Lounge, on FlickrThe picture tells the story of the various shoes but the matter of their care is a story itself. First, it is almost as important to tree your shoes, upon retiring, as it is to remove them. Next (unless you have a valet—and don’t we have all?) you must clean them. To take the new look off brown calf shoes, vary the shade of polish –a dark brown one day and a deep red, like the famous Royal Navy Dressing, the next. After applying polish, brush, then rub in Meltonian Cream, then polish the shoes briskly. White and white trimmed shoes require a liquid paste that won’t rub off. To get a high shine on white buck skin, use Coates Polish on Turkish toweling, let dry, then rub with soft cloth. Contrary to what you hear, don’t use a wire brush on brown buckskin—use an old hairbrush. Coat the edges of soles and heels with black waterproof enamel. Clean the leather trimming on white shoes with a neutral Meltonian Cream.
Finally remember the primary purpose of this whole article is to help you understand the evolution of some of these styles and the whole movement behind the rules and regulations. Ultimately you should be able to take many interesting ideas from this and help establish your own style in a tasteful manner. That is most important of all.
Hope this is sufficient for the time being.
Sincerely
tutee
Edit for date change
This above article appeared in Spring of 32' Not spring of 33'. AA started in winter of 31' therefore spring 32' was the 2nd issue published. I have corrected the dates above.
