Apparel Arts and Esquire Images

[Frederic Leighton]

Beforehand, in the 1910s and 20s, clothes were excessively trim. The effect was rigid, formal, and confining, especially when paired with the hard, starched collars of the time.

p.128 fig.1 - light blue batiste shirt with starched collar
p.128 fig.2 - white pleated bosom shirt with wing collar
p.128 fig.4 - grey oxford shirt white starched collar
p.104 - blue striped broadcloth shirt with white separate starched collar
p.114 The soft shirt is made in a neckband style, worn with a starched collar
p.103 Upper right - shirt with colored body and white starched bosom, collar and cuffs
p.103 center - soft pink shirt with black stripe (starched matching collar)
p.106 - white broadcloth shirt and starched collar
p.106 - narrow bosom starched plain linen dress shirt with two studs, a white winged collar of medium height with large tabs
p.115 - even striped, soft madras shirt and matching stiff collar
p.122 - the shirt has a starched demi-bosom, with blue and white horizontal stripes, plain white starched cuffs and a starched wing collar

At p.122 I had to stop. A starched collar was the standard option well after the 20s, the 30s and even the 40s. As more than one person told me*, most of the garments were ironed using some sort of starch. I think my mum, well trained by her mother, used spray-on starch for my dad's shirts (and not only for the collar) until the 1990s.

*None of the people interviewed are fashion bloggers.

[Russell]

As more than one person told me*, most of the garments were ironed using some sort of starch. I think my mum, well trained by her mother, used spray-on starch for my dad's shirts (and not only for the collar) until the 1990s.

*None of the people interviewed are fashion bloggers.

Frederic,
My mother like yours was also well trained by my grandmother - she always used startch on cotton shirts i.e. mine & my fathers. It wasn't the spray stuff though it was the powdered type which had to be mixed with water. She still does it now if she gets her hands on my laundry when she's over for a stay.

Happy days.

Regards
Russell

[Minh]

Yes, starched collars were used in the 1930s, but they were more of the turn-down variety, instead of encasing the neck like a cardboard cylinder, as in the pre-World War I period. The broader point is that the clothing of the 1930s was more comfortable than that of the 1900s or 1910s, as the Duke of Windsor pointed out. That's not to say that the clothing was utterly and starkly different. The idea is that the 30s saw a meeting of several trends -- the greater comfort of clothes, the less constricting cut, the revival of color, the popularity of tweeds and other country fabrics in the city -- that made it an exceptionally stylish decade.

[Frederic Leighton]

Frederic, My mother like yours was also well trained by my grandmother - she always used startch on cotton shirts i.e. mine & my fathers. It wasn't the spray stuff though it was the powdered type which had to be mixed with water. She still does it now if she gets her hands on my laundry when she's over for a stay.

Thank you, Russell - I really enjoyed you sharing your story! Best wishes to you!

The broader point is that the clothing of the 1930s was more comfortable than that of the 1900s or 1910s, as the Duke of Windsor pointed out.

Minh, I like how you draw the evolution of men's clothing along the decades and I agree that it might be seen as a constant walk towards more relaxed choices. This is our point of view only, though. Can you imagine your grandson telling to his son of how formal his grandad was, with his funny habit of always wearing cotton underpants?! ..and not only for formal occasions (like a visit to the doctor), but even for dinner at home! I'm sure most of us are perfectly happy underpants'-wearers and don't see this garment as undermining comfort (especially when wearing the correct size).

The idea is that the 30s saw a meeting of several trends -- the greater comfort of clothes, the less constricting cut, the revival of color, the popularity of tweeds and other country fabrics in the city -- that made it an exceptionally stylish decade.

The same could be said of the 20s or of the previous decade - new cuts, new trends, more comfort compared to the past. The vast majority of LL members agrees on the 30's being a golden era of men's clothing, but this remains a very personal, partial and temporary (of our time) choice.

Again, a process which led from the amoeba to man appeared to the philosophers to be obviously a progress though whether the amoeba would agree with this opinion is not known. (B. Russell)

[Minh]

Fall 1934 Apparel Arts continued.

A three-piece suit with a beautiful double-breasted waistcoat:





The formal shirt, made of linen.



The double-breasted ulster (to be worn with a mink fur collar)



Even the advertisements had gorgeous illustrations:





University fashions, with a nod to the London Lounge tweeds:

Among the major clothing trends of the past two years, the tendency toward rougher surfaced fabrics has been one of the most pronounced of all. . . .To say that all one sees on the campuses are Harris tweeds, Shetlands, cheviots, and homespuns would be an exaggeration. But it would be a pardonable one.

The trend toward the rough is the chief point to be made about fabrics. As for model, the salient features may be quickly summarized. Shoulders are natural, jackets are much longer and backs are plain except for a center or side vents. There is usually a fullness at the chest and shoulder blades and a decided flare at the hips. The favorite coat is a three-button notched lapel single breasted model. . . .

[hectorm]

The detail in page 33 (ad for Cross Country felt hats) of the chap wearing a leather buckle strap (watch or monocle?) through his lapel buttonhole just made my day!
Thank you, Minh.
Edited: added watch or monocle?

[jb]

Thanks for more great images, Minh. Menswear is supposed to be in an upswing, and just based on the attendance at Pitti, that appears true. Still, while we have gained in access and spontaneity with the web, we don't have any publication with the high editorial quality of the ones we have lost.

[bestsummerever]

A bit belated, but thank you for these lovely images and this thread, Minh. Truly inspirational, especially the collaged fabric textures.

[Minh]

Thank you jb, hectorm, and bestsummerever. It's a pleasure to post these vintage issues of Esquire and Apparel Arts for people who appreciate them!

It's interesting to compare the illustrations with some real life versions, like this photo of Fred Astaire from 1936:

[Man at C&A]

It would be wonderful if we could do that houndstooth coffee & cream in a LL linen.

[lgcintra]

Wasn´t it done already?

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7113/7855 ... b11be2.jpg

[Minh]

The holiday season continues with Esquire from 1936. More to come this weekend.

The large herringbone, vested, peak-lapel suit, October 1936. The raincoat has a camelhair lining.





Young men's fashions in evening clothes, October 1936. The silk labels are elegant and subtle fine ribbed grosgrain silk, as opposed to the smooth satin facings used today. Lovely double-breasted navy overcoat:





Evening dress recommendations from December 1936. A rule that's often missed today: the white waistcoat should not fall below the front of the tailcoat.





Note the astrakhan collar on the formal overcoat above, similar to the collar on the overcoats worn by the Duke of Windsor and Winston Churchill below:





A sumptuous Christmas photo-spread of shirts, ties, and scarves from December 1936:

[theoldesouth]

Carry on, Minh!

Thank you!

[alden]

The selection of accessories is so wonderful. We are sorely lacking in these garments. The scarves and ties are so elegant. I would love to recreate some of those. Have to work on it.

Thanks Minh

Michael

[jscherrer]

Great idea to expand the LL repertoire Michael. Agree with you on the elegance of the scarves for sure.