Here is the long awaited fall series. It contains all the usual goodies; the illustrations, original text, and various links for pictures…oh & my commentaries. Just wait a while for pictures to load up...it has many.
After this post, it is sort of a review time for me… I need to see whether I should continue with these or not. I know some of you believe that these are useful but somehow I remain doubtful. If I think they are indeed useful… I certainly do not mind doing any work, not matter how tedious…as a matter of fact it is sheer joy. However, if such is not the case… then they are a waste and I thoroughly dislike waste in any form and probably won’t be continuing with them. No, that does not mean I won’t post at all but that this current form of posts will not continue. So keep that in mind.
…so starting with this fall series…here we go…
One quick thing I would like to mention…is that if you are new to these writings or AA / Esky…kindly skip the original article and go all the way down to the illustrations. If you are new, chances are this article will thoroughly confuse you as it goes over A LOT of different ideas in a small space. It contains terminology that if you are not familiar with…you will be frustrated as it will not make any sense & I cannot possibly explain all the things they said. For example if you do not know what the combination of white jacket and grey glen plaid looks like…you will be sort of stumped. Save the article or print it out…and once you have all ideas cleared then read it surely…that is why it is there.
For our usual readers… below is the original survey of observed styles in fall / winter 32-33 season and is complete in text. This should give you many interesting ideas and combinations to think of…in a relatively small space.
All original text is in italics and rest is my commentary. Click on the links to be directed to additional pictures or threads.
Fashion Survey from Christmas / Winter 32-33 season
Comments on highlights of the English season—detailed notes from American centers
RANDOM NOTES OF THE LONDON SEASON
The better valets all seem to have discovered at once that a slight bit of starch in evening dress ties makes them look very spruce to begin with,, insures their remaining so throughout the evening…Week-ends in the country confirmed the previously reported revival of knickers of rather full cut…the men of over 35 evincing a greater liking for the type of knickers that is cut almost on the line of breeches….Very smart, when properly cut, but very difficult to cut properly…
The brown suede shoe vogue seems to have run its course, as far as the upper crust of English society is concerned…The preference given it by the Prince of Wales caused it to spread too rapidly…This will probably not soon affect its great popularity in the United States….But it’s worth remembering.
Fall suiting choices of the Prince of Wales were, among others, the following: another suit of his perennial favorite, the grey flannel with white chalk stripes… one in dusted blue with white chalk stripe … also a blue diamond weave*… all three were made up double breasted… The characteristic collar that the Prince wears with almost everything but full evening dress, featuring an extremely wide apart spacing of the very short points and a rather large knot in the tie, is beginning to catch on like wildfire in London … it may accelerate the slowly returning popularity of starched collars everywhere…
• This is an interesting note and should be remembered. See the fall jackets example below in diamond pattern Shetland. Not only in jackets but it was also observed in suits, best reserved for country or rather informal town wear.
Wales is no longer the absolute monarch of all things sartorial, although his influence continues to be greater than that of any other one man… Young Prince George is beginning to influence fashion more and more, as he, rather than the Prince of Wales, is beginning to be followed by many of the smart young men in London*… Most notable feature of his evening turnout, as observed at the bar between acts of a performance of “Casanova”, was the cut of his trousers … full but tapering to 17 inches at the foot… But then, they were made by his big brother’s tailor.
• This was mentioned in detailed in last Duke of Windsor thread. There was an illustration that accompanied influences of Prince George. Kindly see the thread through the link provided below. It is also important to note that Prince of Wales wore an all matching morning suit for the Gold Cup Day at Ascot. It was in grey worsted also worn by Prince George, as well as a great many of the friends of both the Princes. Prince of Wales always opted for the four-in-hand knot and discarded the traditional Ascot tie, in favor of his usual large knot in a blue and white check. Results were that 85% of the ties counted were four-in-hand and 65% were checks. His hat was a grey topper whose brim was rather straight-ish, just like the brim of his bowlers.
Seen at Southampton: A new note is the checked cotton shirt with a two and three-eights inch collar… These were very popular during the week of the Invitation Tennis Tournament at the Meadow Club… Several were seen in cashmere of Glen Urquhart checks… One very smart spectator outfit featured this shirt worn, unpinned, with a double breasted grey flannel suit, bright red foulard pattern tie, brown snap brim hat, brown brogue shoes and a red foulard handkerchief*… Also noteworthy was the revived popularity of the round collar attached shirts worn pinned snugly under the knot of the tie.
• This is an important combination; red and grey. Remember it, as it will be explained below with an illustration.
Cashmere ties were most prominent … seen in Glen Urquhart checks… shepherd’s checks… foulard patterns … paisleys. Regimental and club striped rep ties very popular … not so many India madras ties but those seen were worn by men whose dress tastes have more than ordinary significance. Madras ties in shirt patterns quite popular … Charvet patterns* and madder foulards very noticeable.
• Charvet (Re’gence) This is a silk fabric of reverse rep with a double ridge type ribbed surface, prominently featured by Charvet et Fils; used mainly for neckwear squares and mufflers…and not to mention its use by the famed Parisian shirt maker.
In hose, light weight wool six and three ribbed in solid colors … navy, white and canary the most popular colors. In belts, brown cowhide and pigskin, plain or braided, with two English nickel loops, the most favored. In handkerchiefs, silk foulards outstandingly popular… Many in solid colors … Red, hunting yellow, green.
In evening clothes, the double breasted dinner jacket of light weight material, with four bone buttons, by far the most popular garment … In many instances these jackets had side vents. No pointed end ties seen at all … Only the long shapes with square ends. One note throughout was the wearing of colored boutonnieres… Blue cornflowers, white asters, pink asters, yellow roses, red carnations… To be borne in mind, however, by display men anxious to capitalize this chance for color, is the fact that this applied to dinner jacket only, and in summer at that… Nothing gaudier than a gardenia should ever be shown with a tailcoat.
Noted at the horse showoff Southampton Riding and Hunt Club, as well as the tennis matches, was the extreme importance of grey Glen Urquhart flannel trousers for wear with odd jackets… Significant enough, in terms of next year’s trends, to be well worthy of a fall display. Also important, in terms of next year, the steadily increasing popularity of the light cream color gabardine suit.
Almost a majority of the smart males at the Horse show seemed to favor the madder red Persian design foulard ties. Another significant note: the plain white buckskin shoe without toecap, with black soles and heels, had begin to appear in important numbers in the blucher model.
SEEN AT MEADOWBROOK: Cashmere ties in authentic Tattersall checks … very smart, very interesting, very promising… Cashmere ties in foulard patterns also prominent, sharing popularity with madder foulards … Blue foulard ties with white polka dots … several India madras ties. Younger men favoring grey Glen check trousers, worn with white linen or brown gabardine jackets.* Tab collar shirts just as popular as ever … Button down collared Oxford shirts in white, blue, and tan (in the order named) most popular … The round collar attached shirt, pinned noticeable in solid color oxford, blue, cream, and grey most important in the order named. The brown buckskin shoes with crepe soles and heels, varnished black, with blucher front, the most important note in the shoes.
* This combination of grey and white worn in odd jackets / trousers combination & vice versa is an important note. During the summer series I presented examples of this. Kindly see those threads for further ideas.
SEEN AT THE NATIONAL OPEN: The first day, contestants in the National Open Golf Tournament at the Fresh Meadow Country Club were wearing knickers and slacks in about equal numbers. The second day, knickers were in the majority, although by a very small margin. An observer who was content to let it go at that might have decided, then and there, that knickers have already made the great comeback in this country that is reported for them from England. But the third day would have forced him to a second guess, as trousers led on that day by an overwhelming majority. Even white knickers, supposedly deadest of the dead from a fashion standpoint, turned up in flannel, linen, Palm Beach, and gabardine. Light tan knickers of corduroy, gabardine and Shetland were also worn.
V-neck sweaters, of shell stitch, with sleeves, were popular with contestants in yellow white, and light blue, in the order named. In shoes, the contestants favored the all white buckskin with perforated wingtip, rubber sole and heel, or spiked sole and heel. Black and white moccasin type shoes, with spiked sole and heel second in importance. Solid brown leather wing tipped, spiked soles and heels also noted … this is the shoe worn by Gene Sarazen, made on a custom last.
Several contestants wore silk shirts … Walter Hagen wore one with a tab collar. As for the gallery, the third day brought out a really important crowd, making fashion observations well worth while. There was a great surprise in the number of knicker suits noted … The knickers not cut full, but more like the old time models, just a few inches below the knee. The majority of these were of black and white hound’s tooth check and small Glen Urquhart plaids. In shirts, tab collars, both in solid blue and in stripes, were by far the most important, although the round soft collar attached, worn pinned, of solid color oxford, was seen in sufficiently great numbers to show that its revival is no more than mere happenstance.
… It is definitely back. Several of these shirts in blue oxford, some with stripes, were seen with ties to match, as well as quite a number with bow ties to match. Cashmere ties in checks and plaids were popular … Several seen in black and white and green hound’s tooth checks … Each check about a half inch square. Madder foulard in evidence, both in four-in-hands and in bat bows … The India madras tie also popular both in four-in-hand and bat bow. Even striped rep ties were seen in considerable numbers in the following combinations: plum and gold; black, blue, green and gold; red and green; red and blue. Crocheted wool ties two and one quarter inches wide with even stripes ¾ inch wide were popular in Havana brown and yellow, red and yellow, blue and yellow, white and yellow,* brown and blue, red and blue. Another tie worth watching is closely knitted, one and seven-eights inches wide, in solid colors of hunting yellow, maroon and royal blue.
* Yellow being mentioned so often in these above (& below) paragraphs is by no accident. It is a very useful color that you should remember and a must for every tasteful collection. It has some strong upper-northeastern / New England connotations associated with it, as observed through various events but that is all good. I will adhere to this in detail below…when explaining one of the illustrations, so keep that in mind.
In golf hose, although solid colors are still most popular, patterns are slowly returning. Plaids and Glen checks as well as small jacquard patterns were seen. Half hose were more colorful than ever, tartans, checks, argyles, and horizontal stripes. Practically all hose were woolen, with yellow the leading solid color.
Differing slightly from the consensus of preference among the contestants, the gallery on the third day showed the following sweater colors, favored in the order named; yellow the big color, white, second, but Havana brown, rather than blue, the third. These sweaters were divided about 50-50 between the sleeveless and the sleeved. Most of them were shell stitch. A new shade, noted in V-neck sweaters of cable stitch, was coral.
SEEN AT NEW LONDON: By far the most important note in suiting was the light tan gabardine in a single breasted notched lapel model, wither in two or three button. Second in importance was the grey Glen checked single breasted suit and the medium grey flannel double breasted. Two observations of great significance: 1. Nine out of ten jackets had a seven inch vent; 2. Cuffs of trousers were rolled up at the bottom, rather than self turned, as worn by most of the younger men.
The brown Harris Tweed, or brown Shetland, with grey slacks, remains strong in favor of the undergrad at Yale, as of Oxford. At New London, tab collared shirts were overwhelmingly predominant … chiefly in British stripings, with blue the leading color but grey a close second. Button-down shirts were popular in white, blue and light tan, in the order named. Prominent also was the 2 ¼ inch square collar attached shirt, worn pinned … noticed most in grey oxford.
Noteworthy, and more important than personal opinion, is the fact that draped clothing, in sports clothes as well as in the business and town type, was everywhere in evidence. The drape suit is scoffed at by hard boiled retailers as being “a success with the critics but a failure at the box office”.* The words may yet have to be eaten, as its fashionable importance is till in the ascendancy, and that means that its volume importance is still soundly predictable. Draped clothing is not extreme, not faddish, although “adaptations” of it maybe (and won’t get anywhere if they are). Drape suits have simply been gentlemen’s suits, the staple of gentlemen’s tailors, for a long time. And all signs still point to a wide acceptance for clothing of the gentlemanly type. **
* Think about this for a minute. There is certainly some truth to it. Like the film “Citizen Kane”, everlastingly popular with critics but never quite the same with general public (as opposed to say Casablanca), the Drape suit is no different. There are numerous aspects of a proper Drape suit that attract the critics or “purists” but to common public it is rather “elusive” as certainly it is not the most appealing to an un-trained eye. However, “failure” is probably not the best word to describe its success with the masses, as it has been more successful than that.
** How true they were about its prediction. By the way…as you should be aware of the fact that the origin of Drape lounge suit lies in early 20s NOT 30s, hence the reason why they are referring it to as something that has been around for a while.
The revival of straight bat bow ties 1 ¾ inches wide was very noticeable at New London … mostly foulards in madder colors and in polka dots. The most important new note in neckwear, however, was the introduction, for the first time in appreciable numbers, of cashmere ties with authentic Tattersall checks on a white ground … checks of black and yellow, black and red, black and blue, all black, all brown, all blue. This started in a big way at New London, continued bigger as the season advanced (see previous mention under Southampton notes). The striped crochet tie showed at New London that it has been definitely taken up by university men … numerous examples were in evidence.
New London was also most important this year in that it furnished the handwriting on the wall regarding the now very evident popularity of the reversible topcoat … Glen plaid on one side, gabardine on the other … the weather being a bit cool in the morning, eight of these sprang up out of nowhere.
Well…let us start with our illustrations for these fall series.
First and foremost I would like to start with combination of grey and red that was mentioned in one of the first few paragraphs above. I presented another illustration in last (Duke of Windsor) thread that beautifully depicted this as well. Kindly see link provided above to be re-directed to that thread.
Duke of Windsor post
…so this illustration below is actually from summer months of 36’ but since the fabric is flannel and red and grey combination was discussed above…I am presenting it here.
Image 4-18-18 at 6.12 AM (2) by The London Lounge, on FlickrThis gent is actually on an airplane. This is for a trip involving town or country destinations maybe even resort where the luggage is kept to a bare minimum with just a pair of plain grey or white flannels included in the luggage plus what is shown here. Originally these were recommended very rather informal town-wear but these days they will take you almost anywhere you can think of. This is a look (if you pay attention) that is almost thought of as the trademark look of 30s west end London.
The suit is a 3-pc SB 2-button peak lapel in a grey flannel fabric that carries prominent deep or dark red chalk stripes. This is a fabric that is rarely seen these days, mainly owing its rarity to the texture and color of chalk stripes. This suit is worn in either welt or jetted pockets. Worn with it (here) is a checked madras light grey colored shirt with soft attached collar. Tie is foulard and deep maroon NOT bright red. Vest is SB and carries six buttons & is without lapels. Wool hose are wine / dark red color NOT scarlet red…(they are shown here lighter for your assistance) , pocket square is white linen and brown calf monk front shoes. The hat is brown felt and in “pork-pie” shape. With the substitution of any of the above mentioned two slacks the whole outfit is effectively transformed.
Now…lets get the details right. Observe the shape of the peak lapels & their width. The jacket is worn buttoned while sitting and the sleeves carry proper taper…and 4 buttons on them, set next to each other. Trousers are rather “full” in cut and that is observable specially at the hem with their width being quite ample. Most important of all in this illustration is the combination of grey and red, which is why I presented this in the first place. See the use of suit fabric, then the shirt and the tie combination and finally the socks. If this does not emphasize on the phrase “color harmony” then I don’t know what will. This depicts three patterns; stripes, checks, and dots… whose use & effect together is considered by average public to be that of poison.
These days you may dispense with the red socks and the hat if such is not your style or opt for brown calf oxfords in place of monk fronts. What you should remember is the sheer “neatness” of the light grey shirts. I will confess that it is indeed a personal favorite of mine as well. There are three colors of shirts that you should learn to employ in your weekly sartorial needs. These are; Light Grey, light Lavender / lilac and finally Yellow. Actually there is one more...that is Pink, however I will explain about this later. The first two colors are very hard to go wrong with; the third one (yellow) is a bit tricky. You have to be careful with yellow as NOT all shades of yellow are desirable. Usually in light colors that do not have the “acidity” of bright lemon will work fine. Instead of the darn-old (and certainly overused) combination of blue and red…with a navy blue suit… try a lavender shirt and a deep purple tie. Or with the same suit a pink shirt and a purple / violet and pink motif tie.
You Must think outside the tyranny of solid white and blue (darker blue ones…I have nothing against the sky blue color) shirts. If it pleases you to know…I will tell you that I have only one solid white shirt in my wardrobe, and even that I have never used…and absolutely cannot think of using solid white shirt with a solid colored suit and tie. Similarly I have never used the solid royal-blue color shirt. Now, I am perfectly aware that there is nothing wrong with them but at least don’t use them unless you absolutely have to. What I mean to say is that…when selecting a shirt for an occasion…you should NOT think of the white shirt firstly. You are to be always thinking color and pattern. Repeat this after me… “Color and Pattern”. Being “classical” or “conservative” is no excuse for using solid white shirts all the time…and as most of us know it used as an excuse by 90% of the population, most of whom cannot think of any other shirt color.
Moving onto the 2nd illustration for city / town fashions… this is from Fall of 34’.
Image 4-18-18 at 6.12 AM (3) by The London Lounge, on FlickrThis is one of the two quintessential colors for country; Brown and Green (& both of which are featured in this post). For both of these colors it is hard for me to imagine them in worsted…and in solid at that. Nothing quite portrays the beauty of brown and green as heavier woolen fabrics (of course I am being subjective here).
Actually since the use of brown was heavily observed by well dressed men in town…it sort of remained there. As always, this use of brown was much more prominent in US, and never quite had the same following in London. So, this suit is a black and brown Cheviot. Many interesting things present here in this suit. It is a 3-pc suit with SB jacket that has 3 buttons and the lapel is rolled to the middle button. It carries a ticket pocket and very open front quarters which are elongating vertically…or cutaway style if you will. The vest is DB and surprisingly has a higher crossover. You see…the usual customary starting V position for SB vests is right in the horizontal vicinity of the breast pocket….of course this is assuming that the breast pocket is in the proper place. Db vests are usually lower than the above mentioned observation…this illustration above is rare as the vest starts up high. It carries 8 buttons and is V shaped or “diamond tip” in the front.
Shirt is even striped in reddish brown color of soft madras with a matching stiff round collar. Tie is of solid deep red color, pocket square is of green, red and yellow foulard, and gloves are buff pigskin “gauntlets”. The topcoat is of natural shade covert cloth, and the Homburg hat is of greenish-brown felt. Shoes are reddish brown calf on a town last.
Since this post is about fall styles…let us observe more brown suiting for town while we are at it. Below is from Fall of 34’
Image 4-18-18 at 6.13 AM by The London Lounge, on FlickrBefore I go on explaining anything about this. Kindly observe this picture carefully. Do you see how this is matched together? Do you see the simplicity in this illustration? Nothing in this outfit is a standout by itself…yet when you put these 3 things together; shirt, tie and the suit… the overall effect is much more elegant than you can initially think of. This is 3 colors; Red, Brown and Yellow…and that is it.
This is a fine checked Saxony fabric in brown color with a brown-reddish over plaid. This suit is a 2-pc with SB peak lapel jacket in a 2-button model. Shirt is brown and white madras with tab collar, tie is of wine rep with narrow gold-yellowish stripes. Pocket Square is of white linen. Observe the scale of pattern and how it is used. This suit will lose no less than 50% of its beauty if it is worn un-buttoned.
Observe yet another example of such elegance. This is also from fall of 34’
Image 4-18-18 at 6.13 AM (1) by The London Lounge, on FlickrThis is a 3-pc suit in which jacket is of two button in brown Glen Urquhart plaid with a large dark blue over plaid (recommended in any of the above mentioned fall woolen fabrics). Shirt is of cream colored broadcloth with rounded attached collar that is worn pinned, tie is of dark brown and blue rep silk, and hat is brown snap brim with a slightly narrower brim.
This would be an incomplete post about fall styles if it didn’t mentioned a green tweed suit…so here it is from Winter 33 / Early 34 season.
Image 4-18-18 at 6.12 AM by The London Lounge, on FlickrYes… this is another one of those dreaded combination feared by average public…the mixing of blue and green together. I really like it and would be pleased to explain this in depth. This beautiful DB suit is of tweed with jacket buttoned at both middle and bottom buttons. Color is a rare shade of green with ever so slight hint of blue in it. The fabric is rather heavy, slightly rougher and contains a herringbone pattern that is quite large & prominent…and it is suppose to be that way. This is not the micro small herringbone pattern…do Not confuse it with that. Shirt is blue broadcloth with rounded attached soft collar that is worn is pinned. Tie is of silk with green and blue stripes, sock are classic “Old England” style with horizontal green stripes on a lighter ground. Shoes are reddish brown brogues (of Norwegian calf) and slightly heavier in construction to compensate for the heavy fabric of suit. Hat is brown felt with a wider brim, on which the crown is not pinched. The other gent is wearing a brown tweedy suit of bold Glen plaid checked pattern. He wears a cream shirt with it and brown shoes also. In both cases brown buckskin can be substituted without much effort, if any.
About that hat…there was an alternative to the brown one… I presented it below through the link. This is a greenish rough felt hat with brim turned up all around.
Image 4-18-18 at 6.13 AM (3) by The London Lounge, on FlickrThe glorious shadings and colors found in the feathered coats of the gaming birds have been faithfully caught in a hatter’s felt. For the newer and shaggier suits, no better choice of hats can be made then one of these blue-green; brown green, or grey green Lovat or heather casts in hats. The number of possible shades in the Game Bird range offers a flattering selection for any rough fabrics.
Read below for further understanding of these hat styles.
Note the two alternative methods of wearing the hat. This is exactly opposite to the vogue of a few seasons back, when the turned up brim called for an un-pinched crown, and the snap brim hat was always pinched. No reason for the change, except that, in each instance, the men who set the pace in these matters always veer away from a thing the minute it begins to seem common.
Above is another stunning advice by them. Understand it thoroughly and try to see the movement of all this.
Let us go over the details. Town suiting featured rougher / heavier and country / sporty patterns. So this one is DB which is a city silhouette (at least thought of from 30s and on wards) but the fabric is that of the country. I hope you gents have taken notice of my mentioning of this phenomenon in earlier posts also. While the suit is overall easy fitting, still the jacket is slightly more fitted than the pants, which are of full in cut but worn with minimal of the break. Have a close look at the matching presented by their staff… Quite nice….won’t you say? With blue and green you have to be careful…note that shirt is lighter than the suit and the tie bridges up the blue green gap of suit and shirt.
CLUB CAR, COUNTRY CLUB—AND CORNER CIGAR STORE TOO
Sketched here is a lounge suit in an easy fitting double breasted model that is well adapted to the rough textures that are the dominant note, at the moment in men’s suiting. What has it got to do with the corner cigar store? Nothing, we simply mention that in protest against the kind of fashion copy that (a) gives clothes such silly names as lounge suits and (b) suggests that you wouldn’t dream of lounging anywhere but in a club car or country club—so we included the corner cigar store too, just to keep our fashion consciousness from getting to uppity. In fact, given more space, we might have added that you could wear this outfit to the poolroom, too. In that case, however, we couldn’t refrain from adding that it would make you look if you had better places to spend your time, lounging or otherwise. The point is, clothes like these typify that particular phase of good grooming, fortunately very popular at the moment, which suggests that you don’t give a hoot about your appearance, and that you have more important things on your mind.
Clever isn’t it?
Additional socks were also offered in wool with small patterns. See the link below to view them.
Image 4-18-18 at 6.14 AM by The London Lounge, on FlickrIt is inventible that woolen hose should come to the front again. They have color, pattern and comfort in cool weather to recommend them. Spats had just about ruined the wool hose business when along came rougher suits, and spats aren’t so companionable to tweed suits. A good heavy shoe, brogued or otherwise, in dark reddish brown Norwegian or Scotch grain is perfect at the pedal extremities with almost any of the “go rough” ideas. Choose your weight in hose, these are very light and soft wool; the pattern is a miniature Argyle, and last but not least, the toes and heels are reinforced with lisle.
If you have understood the concepts you will be able to think along the lines of alternatives as well. I am going to explain something elusive. Over here…follow me closely on this…You can take the horizontal stripes of the socks and substitute it at the shirt, may that be blue or green as long as it is lighter than the suit. Then take the solid of the shirt and transfer that to the tie…making it a solid light green or blue color, according to whatever color stripes the shirt has. Then finally add vertical stripes on the socks while keeping the color same. Adding horizontal stripes over here to the shirt will work as long as you keep a few things in mind. 1) Keep the stripes close together and narrow at that….No wide spaced bold stripes. 2) Then keep the color of the tie lighter than the shirt….yes I know rule breaking at its finest… but we are not beginners here so that is fine… Meanwhile making sure that very little of shirt shows…obviously if the shirt is horizontal striped, the collar and cuffs while be white so that leaves a very small portion of shirt where the stripes will show. Next make sure the jacket is with a high crossover if DB or “crooked” ones if you may. This will work remarkably well with a SB 3-pc suit also.
I hope you see what we are doing here. First we are making sure that the stripes are super “busy”…if I may use that word… by doing that you make it seem almost solid in color from a distance…then you add the tie that is lighter than the shirt and the shirt in turn considerably lighter than the suit. Resulting effect is that the eye does not go to the shirt but to the tie instead. You can make the tie darker also if you are confident. While doing all this, remember, that this works because the suit contains a self pattern, which even though being prominent does not jump at the viewer…therefore you are at freedom to do this little trick with shirt and tie. It will work with faint striped suits or solids also. You can try it with bold patterns but it will be very difficult. However, remember one thing clearly… This will NOT work if a lot of shirt or tie is showing. and for the sake of simplicity do Not add pattern to the tie while doing this.
If you have never used anything “forward” like this, then skip it altogether. This is certainly not the advise for faint-hearted. The results can be disastrous if you are not careful… but that is precisely where the “fun” lies. Yet for another different combination…put the vertical stripes on suit, horizontal on the shirt, make the tie solid, and have socks in herringbone pattern. If you are still not satisfied, add an additional small checked pattern on the pocket square. Try it yourself to see! This is what I mean by “fun”.
There is a lot more to this but maybe for some other time. Let us continue with our analysis…
It is worth mentioning that the gent is wearing the jacket buttoned while sitting. Yes…that’s right, and actually both of the buttons are fastened. So hear me loud and clear when I say this... DB jackets MUST remain buttoned at ALL times. I do not care what you are doing…you should not even think about un-buttoning the jacket. The only possible exception to this is…if your DB suit is a 3-pc with a vest underneath the jacket or if you are going to be sitting for extended periods of time…like newscasters or for a very long meal. The “unbutton your DB jacket before sitting” is one of the modern day hooey, probably pushed forward by mass RTW manufacturers. Actually, this is one of the best tests for checking how well a DB jacket fits. When trying the fit of a DB jacket…sit down and see how the jacket behaves. With the majority of RTW DB jackets you will find that the jacket is doing unusual things…like collar will pull back or down, lapels will go out of their way…chest will swell out and other fun stuff…if your jacket is doing all this, chances are it does not fit properly. As matter of fact you should watch some Astaire movies where he is dancing around in DB jackets…yet most aspects are right in their proper place…probably even more so than for most of us even when we are standing straight. Like I mentioned above…the jackets in those days were closely fitted (but not plastered on).
For your viewing pleasure here is an actual picture of Clifton Webb…most members won’t remember him but he was a very elegant dresser. This snapshot below is from his 1944 film Laura; a great film in its own right and one worth seeing. Click on the link provided below.
Image 4-18-18 at 6.14 AM (1) by The London Lounge, on FlickrIn this picture I want you to study three aspects; the collar position at the back, the shoulder line, and most importantly the chest / lapels at the front. In this scene he is having dinner as you can see and nowhere is his jacket doing anything unusual.
Or below view Fred Astaire sitting in a DB flannel suit.
Image 4-18-18 at 6.14 AM (2) by The London Lounge, on FlickrThis should take care of the town suiting for the time being. Let us proceed to the younger audience with campus influenced styles from fall. The date on the illustration below is sadly lost…however, my guess is that it is sometime early to mid 30s from fall season.
Image 4-18-18 at 6.14 AM (3) by The London Lounge, on FlickrIt was a matter of observation by which their staff could tell the differences between students from different years, just by looking at the way they dress. However, with this one it is rather hard to say. The one on the left is wearing an odd jacket in hound’s tooth pattern of brown, beige and red, made in a three button model with eight inch side vents. Worn with it is…what can be best described as a pair of slim grey flannel bags or really baggy trousers. The hem at these measure more than 19” depending on your size. In place of a vest this gent wears a sleeveless white cable-stitched sweater with a colored neck border, which closely resemble that of Cricket clubs worn by English students. The shirt is blue oxford, worn unpinned, with a spaced figured wool tie. The hat is stitched tweed (and was quite popular among the students). Shoes are brown wingtips of heavier last and construction.
The other suit is 3-pc of rough Irish Donegal Tweed with bright colored nubs…a fabric that was considered popular among the smart dressed set of the day, and later had great acceptance from the masses also. Note the shirt collar…it is wide spread model after none other than Duke of Windsor. It is made of soft cotton and carries a perfect windowpane pattern. Bold patterned hose are of wool, tie is of yellow, red and black stripes and the shoes are Jai Alai in brown reversed calf with black rubber soles.
Lets say a few things about overcoats / topcoats. This below is from Fall of 37’ and depicts undergrads departing for their fall terms.
Image 4-18-18 at 6.13 AM (2) by The London Lounge, on FlickrThis is typifying the trend for university fashions (back then), and the one on the left is a perennial favorite; the DB camel’s hair coat. Worn with it is a chalk striped light grey flannel suit, a solid tan color shirt with soft lounge collar to match, a checked wool tie, brown Norwegian calf shoes and a greenish color semi-sports hat. The latter is worn in many different shapes, to suit individual taste, for example some wear it like a pork-pie, some like a Tyrolean, and others yet in any old nonchalant manner. Gloves in coat’s pocket are capeskin.
The student in the middle is wearing a SB notched lapel, fly front knee-length coat of covert cloth. The suit is of dark blue basket weave in an unfinished worsted. Shirt is of blue oxford with a button down collar, regimental striped tie (note that the stripes are British), brown wing-tipped shoes and a snap brim hat with lower crown and wider brim…that has sort of a backswing (introduced recently then). The gloves are pigskin. The older gent on the extreme right is wearing a derby hat, white muffler with grey suit and yet again…brown shoes. His coat is the typical DB navy blue guard’s coat, and that being a breed of its own demands a totally different discussion. I will relate to that some other time.
While we are at topcoats / overcoats let us look at something even more interesting than all the plain simple topcoat models above. Below is from Winter / Christmas 33-34 season and quite unique.
Image 4-18-18 at 6.16 AM (1) by The London Lounge, on FlickrBefore you going into complete astonishment and daze let me tell you that this is a town Ulster actually worn at a football stadium. Recommended best for people who switch between an office business and sporty setting on Saturday afternoons and thereby causing a conflict in attire, which is effectively resolved by what is presented above in the illustration. See the thing is that…if you are dressed for office, you are considered too formal at the stadium…not to mention maybe uncomfortable also and if you are dressed up for sporty events that is usually apt to be a bit conspicuous around at ones office setting…especially in a metropolis. So what is a person to do? Here in lies the answer…as depicted above.
This coat carries a collar that is much larger than usual overcoat for town, and will ward off any foul wintry blasts that are usually expected during the fall seasons. The overall cut of the coat is well thought of…with heavy fuzzy / hairy fabrics in mind, which is even better when it carries the large & bold over plaid or maybe a smaller check. Take your favorite pick in the fabrics. Recommended weight is 20 oz and up.
Here’s a burly looking fabric that will keep you warm when no other cloth coat will. For those people who find a heavy coat a desirable acquisition, a garment made up of this grey fleece cloth in the new subdued check design should approach perfection. For an in-town Ulster to be sometimes worn at football games and used frequently for motoring, the color and pattern both lend themselves to the new ensembles.
Flaps on the breast and lower pockets keep tickets and things from flying away as well as warm your hands if you use them. Note that the sleeves carry deep cuffs. The gloves are yellow knitted string and with wool or cashmere linings. A heavier type of shoe than that commonly worn to business wear is both permissible and advisable with the outfit. This one sketched here is a waxed calf blucher cut in black. Derby complements the town suiting underneath along with black shoes and the bright yellow and blue muffler complements the sportier part of the Ulster plus the occasion.
In the gents hand is a blanket that is warm, light and soft at the same time. A great looking one in a Scotch plaid pattern is in the illustration below also.
Image 4-18-18 at 6.16 AM (2) by The London Lounge, on FlickrNow here is the thing about mufflers.
Although the long narrow mufflers that are worn ascoted or choker fashion are definitely in, there are many who prefer the square type muffler. Those who have devoted their love for mufflers to this particular type have a decided preference for foulards. Somehow the brightness that might be offensive in other designs is merely enriched and made more beautiful in the Paisley and adaptation of the Persian and British Indian designs these scarf carry. Aside from the color touch, there is a margin of comfort derived from a folded square that the long muffler never quite achieves.
nn by The London Lounge, on FlickrRecommended as an alternative to the Derby hat was Tyrolean type, as not only was it observed more on the sporty occasions but was also more comfortable. The recommended color usually was a derivative of green in some way. As always texture was of importance and more often than not…these were of a rougher texture that again complemented the overall ensemble.
See the one above in the Scotch Plaid rug picture
The horsey Long Island set first introduced the polo coat of natural camel to the land. Now they have sponsored the Tyrolean type of hat—and we like it. These rough greenish hats, with often a narrow cord in place of a riband and a feather in the side and a puddin’ base crown, are rather nice. They go great with sports clothes, and they are light in weight and stay on the head nicely.
It goes without saying…do NOT wear this above mentioned ensemble to a football game in this day and age (esp. in smaller US states). That is not a good idea.
Moving along we venture into the great out doors and the clothing that it brings with it. From Fall of 34’ for outdoor wear.
Image 4-18-18 at 6.16 AM by The London Lounge, on FlickrFor upland shooting this is a single breasted tweed jacket in a 2 button model with a bold red over plaid, blue oxford shirt with medium pointed button down collar, plain knitted tie. A Fair Isle sleeveless pullover and stitched tweed hat. Worn underneath are heavy drab trousers in sold khaki / beige color. The jacket carries large “bellows” style pockets…designed for carrying ample amounts of shotgun shells.
More shooting styles from Fall 34’
Image 4-18-18 at 6.15 AM (1) by The London Lounge, on FlickrThis is yet another variation of the classic and traditional Norfolk jacket in lovat colored heavy tweed, worn with it is a tan cheviot shirt with attached collar. Club striped bow tie, white sleeveless sweater and the green felt Tyrolean hat. Pants are of heavy Shepard’s check / Sponge bag pattern variety. Note the placement of the yellow & green foulard silk square…those next to vertical pleats are actually pockets. This jacket also carries large bellows pockets and a “fancy” belted back.
For golfing and other sporty occasions…we have from Fall of 34’
Image 4-18-18 at 6.15 AM (2) by The London Lounge, on FlickrThis is blue and grey tweed jacket in a three button model with lapel rolled to the middle button. It is of hound’s tooth pattern and carries slanted pockets along with deep side vents. Underneath the jacket is a thick navy blue turtle neck sweater and below are light grey flannel trousers. On the gent’s head is a one piece top cap in black and white shepherd’s check pattern.
For Horsey and outdoor events from Fall of 34’
Image 4-18-18 at 6.15 AM (3) by The London Lounge, on FlickrThis is a brown Shetland jacket in the unique Diamond pattern with leather buttons and bellows pockets, blue flannel shirt with rounded collar that is attached and worn pinned; tie is red and yellow foulard. A cream colored wide wale corduroy vest is worn beneath the jacket, and on gent’s head is a brown felt telescope hat. Trousers are of extreme interest here as they are black and white tweed in a bold herringbone pattern. The over all color of the trousers is that of very light grey…this unusual and must be noted. Plus, note the mixing of three self patterns; small check on jacket, striped / vertical effect on the vest and herringbone on pants. I will elaborate on this specific method of mixing & matching only if someone is specifically interested…it is rather complex and many things have to be considered before you put something like this together.
While discussing the great out doors let me show you something truly unique. This is from winter 34 / early 35 season.
Image 4-18-18 at 6.15 AM by The London Lounge, on FlickrPresented here is something that may appear quite usual to the un-trained eye but I am sure you gents will surely be able to appreciate. Let us focus on the jacket alone for the time being. This is a very heavy brown Shetland tweed jacket with recommended weight 20 oz or more…the interesting bit is that the fabric contains an intricate diamond like “pheasant” pattern…that is quite unique. It is one of those items that are rarely found these days. It is done in a 2-button Norfolk “belted” or “fancy back” design with bottom button placed at waist line. It contains two huge bi-swing pleats at the blades at the back also. Pockets are large and in bellows style, which are either oil lined for carrying tobacco items or leather lined if used for shooting or hunt. Sleeves carry two buttons in observance of sporty nature of the jacket.
Underneath are a pair of heavy grey tweed knicker breeches that are diagonal in weave (a cross model between riding breeches and knickers actually), brown checked woolen hose over which are worn a pair of heavy weight wool anklets, an extra heavy grey turtle neck sweater, a red woolen cap with white pompom, heavy wool gloves in colorful Norwegian pattern (that is traditional feature of such winter clothes of the era), and a pair of dark ski boots of treated elk leather.
Now again focus just on the jacket and take it out of this context for a minute. There is no reason whatsoever why you should not be able to use this jacket with a pair of heavy grey flannel trousers or maybe even tweed ones…though not Shetland…because of its loose nature…but a more closely woven one. With that you should be able to wear one of your favorite wool or cashmere ties and a brown greenish checked hunting inspired shirt of heavy cotton flannel. What I mean to explain is that this beautiful jacket should not be restricted to the scenario depicted above…especially in this day and age where you should be using it for all other purposes But the one prescribed by them.
For those of you who still have a hard time visualizing this fabric…it looks something like this…see the link below to see Astaire wearing one.
Image 4-18-18 at 6.12 AM (1) by The London Lounge, on FlickrThis picture also appeared in Mr. Boyer’s wonderful little book about Astaire called; “Fred Astaire Style”. Astaire’s jacket, according to Mr. Boyer is also of Shetland fabric.
This is it!
That concludes the first part of this series for fall of 05’. Like I mentioned at the beginning… this post is a review time for me as I need to make sure that all of this is indeed worth doing. If you gentlemen find this useful and are learning from it then I will be happy to continue with my efforts. However, if I think there is not much use for these posts then this will be the last one of this sort.
Sincerely
etutee
