Summer Guide Part 1
The bulk of this comes from a summer 32’ article which will take you…sort of….behind the scenes at Palm Beach during the resort / summer seasons. This is from AA, and I hope you will find the original text as enjoyable as I did.
All the original text is in Italics the rest is my commentary. Click on the links to be taken to appropriate threads as they appear in the discussion below. Keep in mind that the primary funtion of this guide is to expose you with many ideas and what was used for summer wear . You should be able to take whatever you like and use it in our times accordingly.
From summer 32’
Fashion observation was an increasingly difficult task each year, for the last five or six seasons. This little island off the Florida coast, a pleasure park where the social luminaries of two continents play in Spanish patios and Moorish courts for a brief six weeks in the forepart of the year. Has long been of paramount importance as an incubator of authentic fashions for men. By 1930 Palm Beach was crowded with representatives of two distinct classes, the colony crowd, as opposed to the hotel crowd. The colony, composed of those owning their own homes, to whom Palm Beach in the winter and New port in the summer is a habit of many years standing, found itself, each year, more hedged in by the vast horde of climbers to whom Palm Beach represented a gilded gate to crash, and a golden opportunity to flaunt their newly acquired riches.
Those were the days of the famous “Soirees de Palm Beach”, when every last hotel was filled with a rostrum of guests as socially ambitious as their origins were ambitious. The colony aristocrats, dismayed at the prospect of contact with these “low-lifers”, went into precipitate retreat. They did not, however, abandon Palm Beach. They simply went into seclusion. Breaker’s Beach no longer saw their patrician footsteps on the sands. But the depression has changed all that. The “phonies” are conspicuous by their absence. The hotels-that is, those hotels that are open—can boast no more than corporal’s guard, with the result that members of the colony are easier to see, and the job of the fashion observer, who must separate the wheat from the chaff, is correspondingly easier to perform.
A number of very important fashion changes have been introduced this season. We observed them at the Bath and Tennis Club, Sea Spray Beach Club, Breaker’s Casino, Bradley’s, The Everglades Club, The Poinciana Golf Course, and at the new, very exclusive, very smart, Seminole Country Club.
The patios and corridors of the Everglades Club are always filled with the smartest of the colony residents…polo matches at the Gulf Stream Club draw a fashionable crowd…lunching at Le Maze, the chic new Normandy Inn (where liver and bacon still costs $1.50 a plate) adds a few more items to the fashion scout’s notebook…so does tea time at the Bath and Tennis Club.
For convenience in checking we separate the various items of the masculine wardrobe into their several classifications:
Clothing
Summer 32’
Coats are longer. Plain fabrics are out. Exception: the perennial solid colored grey flannel. Exception No. 2: gabardines, which are naturally, solid colored. Cream is the leading color in gabardine, with Havana brown and plain white next in popularity, in the order named. Suits of gabardine, both single and double breasted. Sport coats of gabardine, saddle stitched, three buttons single breasted. The latter invariably worn with grey or white flannel trousers.
A new note in odd jacket and trouser ensembles. Light coat and dark trousers, in direct contrast to the familiar dark coat and light trousers of the past.* Some of the best turned out men at Palm Beach wore cream colored linen sport coats with dark Havana brown linen trousers, the latter in a self herringbone pattern. Another favorite combination among those whose dress preferences have a direct bearing upon the nation’s fashion trends was that of white gabardine sport coat with grey flannel trousers. (This is the beginning of an important change. It should be reflected in your merchandise this summer, Remember how the equally “queer” combination of brown coat and grey trousers caught on!)**
*A beautiful example of this (in addition to the illustration below) is presented by Fred Astaire in the film “Funny Face” while strolling in the first scene at Paris.
Image 4-15-18 at 6.41 PM by The London Lounge, on FlickrNotice that he is wearing a plaid lighter jacket paired up with darker solid grey / charcoal pants. Observe the presence of ticket pocket on his jacket and how impeccably his socks harmonize his shirt/tie combination.
**This is very important and must be understood. Note that they are referring to what is now known as a time-honored combination…i.e. wearing grey as a neutralizer with brown odd jackets. Time was when (post WW I till recently) grays neutralizing abilities were well known and it “went” with almost everything such as in the combination above. However, pre-20s and 30s it was considered awfully bad taste to combine brown and grey together and such this above mentioned was a “queer” combination for many older people of the time. 70 years later we have no difficulty understanding the combination of brown and grey and as a matter of fact it is rather considered tasteful to match these two.
Well, most of this “go-ness” is psychological and changes form time to time. The best combinations are those that nature gives us….for example harmonizing colors of fall/autumn that are yellow, orange, rust and brown. Blue and white of the sky are another example and the contrast of green and yellow as observed in sunflowers are all but excellent examples.
These days by a similar example, most people think black “goes” with everything. Nothing can be further from truth. Black first of all is not a neutralizer as grey and as such absorbs all the surrounding color…if it makes any sense.
Observe this magnificent Astaire picture below from the film Funny Face.
Image 4-15-18 at 6.42 PM by The London Lounge, on FlickrNote that Astaire is wearing what is exactly referred to as unusual above. Personally, I think this combination will work a lot better if his pants were of the earthly tones of tan, beige, khaki, natural or similar colors. Of course they would be lighter than the jacket and not only would be great with brown but would have worked remarkably well with his shirt, tie combination…and of course his brown suede shoes.
The primary reason why I think brown suede works so well with grey flannel suits is because so much (proportion vise) is grey and so little is brown. In this Asatire example above it can be improved somewhat because brown and grey are about 50/50.
Image 4-15-18 at 6.42 PM (1) by The London Lounge, on FlickrThis is an example of grey and white. While this combination seems perfectly fine in a picture…it is always somewhat odd in actuality. This phenomenon is especially true if the grey is of darker shade. If you want to make this combination works (esp. in this day and age)…try using a very light shade of grey with white rather than medium grey. The light grey (stone) color is superb when paired up with white and creates a beautiful and elegant ensemble. For the purpose of summer and resort wear, both of these articles…the pants & the jacket…can be part of a suit or separate. Jackets can be perfectly of the SB variety also. Wear proper summer shoes with both of these outfits.
This is from late-summer of 34’
Image 4-15-18 at 6.42 PM (2) by The London Lounge, on FlickrThis on the left is another excellent depiction of what was described above as a new (back then) innovation of wearing lighter jackets and darker trousers. On left is a DB jacket of natural linen (as mentioned above also) smarter than pure-white worn with a bluish-grey flannel trousers. The shirt is of blue madras worn with a semi-stiff collar (cuffs are self color) and a red and yellow striped bow tie. This is noteworthy because usually madras shirts are conceived of as extremely casual and rarely seen in a contrast collar model. The socks are of light weight wool with horizontal striping of tan and blue, and the shoes are of brown buckskin. The hat complementing the jacket in color is of natural shade Panama. The swimmer wears a pair of ribbed wool knitted swimming trunks. This also came from European beaches back then and these were recommended in a rather snug fit.
Over here take a moment and study the combination of jacket, shirt, tie and that of socks. Note the presence of 4 buttons on the sleeves.
Linen suits, plain backed, both single and double breasted. But when linen coat is worn as an odd jacket, with grey or white flannel trousers, it has a belted fancy back.
For an illustration of this above mentioned description about belted back jackets, kindly see the like provided below. Observe the 3rd picture from top.
Thread for Belted Back pics
This next picture is from Summer of 36’.
Image 4-15-18 at 6.42 PM (3) by The London Lounge, on FlickrLast thread I posted a picture of a red blazer of home spun tweed, observed at Bermuda. Well, this time here is the correct bold striped version that is never observed these days.
This is Eden Roc at Cap d’ Antibes, which has really no beach but just steps that have been carved out of rocks I guess. The person on your left wearing a blazer is supposedly an Englishman and the one your right is a Frenchman. The Englishman wears a polo shirt underneath, a 3 button SB notched lapel blazer (with all 3 patch pockets) of terrycloth with a muffler to match, light blue-grey mohair crash beach trousers, and a pair of Basque canvas espadrilles with rope soles. You can also have the blazer in cotton flannel or combination of other fabrics but note that this particular blazer above is probably not feasible today at least not exactly the same.
Before going on any further, this should be explained…Observe the color of the pants. This color is totally or almost gone these days from RTW market. It is a derivative of the ever light shade of grey except this one carries a hint of blue in it also. Crash usually refers to a rough textured fabric produced by combining thick and uneven yarns in weaving. It can be of wool (above in the picture), cotton, rayon, linen or blends of fibers. Originally worn by the Egyptians some four thousand years ago and much used in their dress. It has long been used as a toweling.
From summer 32’ on color in suits and sports clothing.
Cream, Havana brown, green and white in just that order of importance are the outstanding notes in suitings. Worn as suits, odd jackets, or odd sports trousers. In single breasted, double breasted, and semi-Norfolk models. Linen, Natural Color, is of vital importance. This is really the first time that men in society who come to Palm Beach have ever in number deviated from the traditional white as the color for linen, and incidentally of more than passing importance is the more practical quality of this natural color linen, in that it does not soil as readily. Ranking with natural linen is the acceptance here of Ninghai silk suits, and this same fabric as an odd sports jacket material made in the semi-Norfolk model.
…& how right they were! Indeed in the years to follow off-shades of white were best recommended for smart dressing (in suiting & evening formal wear jackets) in stead of the usual plain white. This as noted above were the beginnings of this tradition that still exists in out times regarding light colored suits and jackets. Note that this practice of wearing off-shades of white did not necessarily start out of economic necessity but was a combination of other things as well. Most dominant in all of those was the “step-and-a-half-ahead” theory of smart dressers. These people, as I have written before, constantly “filtered” with color brackets and established norms. When black considered was most correct for formal wear they invented Oxford grey for formal day wear and mid-night blue for evening wear to distinguish them from everyone else….and later to justify their practice established the wonderful story of mid-night blue appearing darker than black in artificial light. No matter what you say…I can easily spot a midnight blue apart from true black in any artificial light and I don’t quite buy their nice little story…however entertaining.
Or that light off-shades of whites are more economical / practical than pure white. These people were dominantly of the affluent class and as such being economical in color of their jackets was not even of the least bit concern to them. Throughout the 30s this circular movement of smart-dressers and their followers…was seen over and over again.
Impressively important is the tremendous number of white linen sports coats, single and double breasted, with emphasis on the double breasted coat worn with stone grey flannel trousers.* Plain bright colored espadrilles, worn for on as well as off the beach wear in white, yellow, red, Palm Beach blue, and coral, with quite a few of the umbrella striping also being worn. In odd trousers, stripes worn by the older men.** Small hound’s tooth checks, white and stone grey are the important thing. Gray double breasted flannel sports coat.
* This stone grey color that they are referring to is an extremely light shade of grey that is rarely seen in our day and age. Due to its lightness it was not only appropriate for summer / resort wear but also went well when pairing up with other lighter colors such as in odd grey slacks with natural linen or with white ones.
** Here it is the mention of striped trousers (mostly light grey chalk striped) to be worn underneath the jackets. This was a hide-and-seek game again. These pants usually were considered too old fashioned for the younger crowd but the young ones did not hesitated even the least bit…when they felt like picking it up again. Oh and “young ones” meant people in their mid to late 30s or 40s, Not men in their 20s or something.
It is a very classy look that is almost never done these days. Best possible example is with a navy blue flannel jacket (with plain not gold buttons) or maybe a solid cashmere / alpaca cardigan for a more relaxed look. Think of semi-formal daywear combination where a darker jacket takes the light colored patterned trousers…this combination of blue jacket and grey striped pants is no different. However, formality vise it will be still and odd jacket/ pants combination unlike the semi formal day version of this. It should be mentioned that this look of blue plain jacket and striped grey flannels, works best with black shoes unlike most odd jacket / pants combination. It is one of the more formal odd jacket/pants combination and as such correctly takes a black lace up (preferably on a town last) rather than a heavy suede blucher or likewise. You can try to pair it up with a more casual brown shoe but the effect will be somewhat strange & unusual.
Black and white checks in sports jackets. Shetlands, tweeds and linen (That’s new) , worn with grey flannel trousers. Glen Urquhart plaids and over plaids as well as shepherd’s checks. The latter very important, in cheviot and worsted jackets with belted backs.
Here is something extremely relevant to what is prescribed above. From summer of 34’.
Image 4-15-18 at 6.42 PM (4) by The London Lounge, on FlickrFirst and foremost the single most important thing worth mentioning in this illustration is that the jacket is Not of Tweed Shetland variety as you would naturally think but of Cotton!....made to replicate the look of tweed for summer weather. Clever isn’t it? A best example, that emerged from Newport and Southampton during the 30s. These were woven in such a way that you could not tell the difference between an actual tweed one and a cotton one from even fifteen feet. Available at the time in various versions of hounds tooth pattern, this one carried an extension tab at the slit of one lapel, which buttoned over when the collar was tuned up. This obviously obviated the need for an extra muffler after a session of exertion under the summer sun…especially if the tie was not worn.
The shirt is of white oxford with soft buttoned down attached collar, and that at the time was probably the next best shirt to a proper mesh tennis shirt (worn especially for tennis). White flannels are appropriate on and off the court, for summer resort wear. However, light grey flannel can be substituted here without much pain. Tie is of brown, yellow and reddish stripe. The shoes are brown and white (buckskin) combination with rubber soles and with their brown calf trim is suitable for general resort wear. Note the plain white socks, which are made of lightweight wool. Remember, that is only correct to wear them in the above mentioned setting, i.e. for summer / resort / country wear with proper sport clothes. White socks are never worn with town suitings.
As they said that there is a first time for everything and as such, that was the season (summer 34’) when for the first time…washable representations of Scotch Plaids appeared for summer wear. It was recommended best for smart dressing because it avoided the bulkiness and weight of tweeds meanwhile providing the same elegant look. It is extremely important to remember that back in those days the idea of wearing light-weight tweeds was not that popular. Tweeds were heavy and were worn as they were supposed to be.
On the use of white Gabardine from Summer 34’
Among the harder working fabrics whose utility makes them suitable for a verity of purposes is white gabardine. The uses of white gabardine are many—it is employed for suits, for sport jackets and trousers and is very often used for white dinner jackets. It has unusual draping qualities when tailored correctly and always has a crisp, cool look to it.
Remember here that the average summer weight for Gabardine was about 12-13 oz back then hence it’s draping qualities.
An important revival: the time honored combination of blue coat and white flannel trousers. Once before this was almost synonymous with Newport and with correctness, but its adoption by every last jazz orchestra in the country killed it as a high fashion item. Now it has reappeared, worn by men who count. This coat is almost invariably double breasted, by the way.
Summer 33’
On the use of DB dinner jacket and summer Formal wear
Double breasted dinner jackets first and foremost. However, important to note is the tremendous increased use of white mess jackets in the more exclusive places; the Colony Club, Whitehall, Passy, Everglades, and the Patio Marguery. Although this garment is correct only for on boat wear, from which it has been adapted, its increased use by the class of people we have seen wearing it here may be the beginning of a permanent summer fashion, although we really see greater possibilities, in the small beginnings here this season, for the single breasted, shawl collar, white linen-dinner jacket, worn with black tie and trousers. The summer dinner coat shirt is defiantly a soft collar attached one. This, as you already know is the accepted thing at Yale and Princeton; both young and old are using it here. The tie is semi-butterfly.
Now…as I said it before, understand the origin of DB dinner jacket and as such see that it is less formal (& less acceptable) than the customary 3-pc SB dinner suit with the proper black-tie vest. I am being very strict here with rules…if for not much then just for the sake of this article. DB dinner jackets correctly take the turn down collar whether starched or soft. Marcella soft evening shirt with turn down collar goes divinely well with this attire for a reason. Originally introduced as a resort / summer article this DB dinner jacket was brought to town in fall & other seasons by none other than Duke of Windsor (at least he certainly insured their lasting value for year around wear in town). Of course, all of us know his preference for turn down collar evening shirts…and well they went with this “new” DB dinner jacket. Also know that the DB dinner jacket can take a wristwatch but SB 3-pc version cannot. Absence of the vest and it’s already reduced formality has to do much with that. In the most correct sense, a DB dinner jacket should NOT be worn with starched stiff wing collar (& certainly never with a white pique tie). This is a must for summer colored dinner jackets, much more so than for black ones.
DB dinner jackets were recommended for resort-summer / club / home wear in the early 30s ( as mentioned above), later in the decade after Duke’s countless London evening appearances in these…DB dinner jackets were recommended for city formal events even in fall time albeit with caution. The use of patent / Russia varnished leather monk front shoes for resort wear (mostly West Indies) was best suggested with DB black jackets or lighter versions, not with SB 3-pc dinner suit. But, that was back then. These days you may certainly wear the DB black dinner jacket all year round at any possible black-tie event as observed on Prince Charles also.
By the way, I think I should mention this…DB suits and jackets are not that formal as people think they are. Back in the days…in most instances they were considered more causal, fresh and were more appreciated by the younger crowd. Quite the contrary to modern day where wearing DB articles is considered a sign of formality, and often suggested for elder people.
From summer of 33’ on summer fabrics and materials
Climatic conditions, as one of necessity’s guises, have been the mother of many articles of use and fashion in men’s apparel. Noel Coward’s observation that “mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the mid-day sun” is one way of accounting for many of our present day warm weather fashions. The Hollanders and English who followed the flag with commerce to India, Java, Africa, New Zealand, and other hot countries learned from the natives the secrets of warm weather comfort. Without benefit of science, but through the experience of centuries, the natives of these countries have discovered how to use nature’s help in combating the hot rays of the tropical sun. The cellular constructions of the fibers of jute, flax, and similar local vegetable fibers will probably always remain a main secret to most of these dark-skinned folk, but they have long since learned the practical value of clothing that allows a constant circulation of air about their bodies. Probably, too they may never hear what science now knows about the heat absorbing qualities of dark clothing, but they long ago learned the wisdom of adhering to the natural off-white colorings of the fibers that they use of their garments.
And, taking the tip from those who ought to know, white clothing has long been obligatory for naval and military officers whose duties lead them into the heat of the tropics. The khaki shade of the service uniform represents a sacrifice of comfort as a concession to grim necessity, occasioned when white uniforms were coffee dyed simply and solely to make them less readily discernable to the keen eyes of native snipers. Early prints and engravings of naval officers consistently show white clothing in use for summer wear. It is evident that experience long ago taught the need of protection against the un-shaded heat at the sea, and the need of clothing that reflect rather than absorb this heat.
Man has conquered nature’s limitations by adapting his clothing to climatic conditions. Men from the northern countries finding themselves in tropical climates, have found it necessary to dress in a fashion that competes with the thermometer. And that is why there is a sound, sensible, and even scientific basis for the summer fashions that are coming into vogue at the present time. Practically every item of summer clothing that is accepted today by the fastidious social leaders who set the country’s mass fashions has been adopted directly from the traditional dress worn by colonists in those countries. Health and comfort are the primary factors of this new change. Along with these two considerations is the basic fashion acceptance among the leaders in social circles of a wardrobe that is planned—that is functional and suitable from a standpoint of fabric, model and color.
The problem of the influence of the sun’s rays upon the body is one which has had a great deal of attention and it has been determined, recently, that the use of materials of red or orange color may be of benefit in the tropics for the protection of the body from the actinic rays which are believed to act prejudicially to the human system. These colors are found in linings of native clothing, as well as in many of the natural fabrics as dyed by the natives in India. Thus soldiers, traders, and explores, who have long known, through the intuitions of the natives, what science is only beginning to find out for itself.
Witness the woolen material called solaro, in which a read thread is woven in the cloth, forming a lining which gives this protection from Sun’s actinic rays. Serge, flannel, and tweed are also recommended by those who have had experience in the tropics, many of whom avoid cotton as a general rule, although it has been used in fabrics with other materials and found most successful. A popular fabric which has found favor through years of tropical experience is a cotton and linen gabardine which in many instances is made to resist rain without interfering with the porous nature of the cloth.*
*As I mentioned before, it is the weave that should be of the primary interest in the summer Not necessarily the weight (a common misconception found in our times is that…the lighter weight makes for a cooler fabric).
Another favorite of tropical countries is shantung silk. This comes in variety of weights but, as now used for men’s summer suits, is most desired with a fairly heavy “body” to it. Linen has been worn in the hot climates of the world for years. That worn by the natives is of a natural tan shade and is coarse in character.
Bleached linen was adopted, as far back as 1800, for parts of the uniform of British Navy. It was also popular in Beau Brummel’s time and, later on, Thackeray mentions again and again the practice of wearing white duck trousers in the summer months. Coffee planters on the South American plantations today wear a white linen that resembles a handkerchief in weave, but is not quite as porous as the linen that is generally used for men’s summer suits in this country.
Shirtings that have proved most successful in torrid zones are light weight flannels, silks and madras. Headwear of natural fibers has always been preferred—straw hats and straw plaiting date back to ancient Egypt. The preferred neckwear has been that light weight silk known as foulard, and as an equal favorite, India madras.
Comfort and easy fit have been always been the main characteristics of this particular type of clothing*, hence we have, as an established model, the Norfolk jacket, and the great popularity of the cummerbund, double breasted and soft collar—attached shirts. These articles were, when originated in the tropical colonies, dictated primarily by necessity, but today these same items are taken up by fashion-minded men as the essentials of smart dress in the summer wardrobe.
*Here they are talking about summer time clothing, which generally was easy in fit and cut along somewhat fuller lines.
Continuing with the above article…
Gabardine, that favored fabric in the tropics, was the outstanding single item of the entire Palm Beach season. Bow ties and four-in-hand ties of India Madras were another conspicuous note. Silk pongee shirts, fabric shoes, and mesh weaves, in hose, underwear, and shirts are also widely accepted, while a great vogue is beginning for the Norfolk jacket of linen, silk or gabardine. The derivation of all these items from tropical usage is obvious.
From summer of 32’
SHIRTS
A new note, at last. Or rather, such an old one making its reappearance that it accounts to the same thing. Clipped figured shirts…they’ve been dead for five years…now they’re back. Not worn by many men, but worn by those whose choice is very significant. White grounds only.
In sports shirts, first importance goes to the zipper front Antibes polo shirt of jersey mesh, made with half sleeves. Worn both for tennis and for golf. Most seen in solid navy and canary.
Below is an illustration from summer of 38’. If item matching is not your forte…learn a lesson or two from this picture below.
Image 4-15-18 at 6.43 PM by The London Lounge, on FlickrAlright, here you have a light weight wool half sleeve wool sports shirt with silk neckerchief. Grey flannel trousers. Red and white horizontal striped lisle hose, white buckskin shoes with red soles and heels. Red and white striped belt.
Start slowly from the top and then move your eyes down….you should see nothing but color harmony at its finest. Observe the color of the shirt, neckerchief, socks, shoes and even the belt! Then stop…and think for a moment what is he wearing? A simple sports shirt with a pair of slacks, a belt, and shoes.
Yet again…if this is not enough try this illustration below. Dubbed “A whole rhapsody of blue”.
Image 4-15-18 at 6.43 PM (1) by The London Lounge, on FlickrOn the man sitting at right is a shirt of polo style in the (mega rare) hounds tooth pattern, washable beach trousers, and the blue canvas sneakers with white rubbers soles. Yellow as prescribed above was a popular color at the beaches during the 30s. Here present in yellow socks that are of light weight ribbed wool and the terry cloth robe on the fore-ground, which belongs to the gent on the left in swimming trunks.
Again, from head to toe observe this slowly. Frankly speaking these are my favorite two illustrations in this series not necessarily because of what they depict, but what they teach (or are trying to teach). Extremely pragmatic in our era when such attire will take you almost anywhere on a weekend day or on a warm summer afternoon.
From Summer of 32’
NECKWEAR
Charvet patterns on white grounds…triple stripes on dark ground rep, usually with one stripe very brilliant (just the reverse of the three-tone rep stripes on white warp that enjoy such a marked favor at Yale and Princeton)…foulard ties with yellow grounds very important…wash ties…a surprisingly large number of bow ties…many India madras print four-in hands. A limited but nonetheless surprising reappearance of the old DeJoinville neckties with the horizontal stripe. This may mean the return to popularity of this old timer, but it’s too radical to take chances on it until Newport and Southampton have either confirmed or denied its importance. Very good and of considerable importance solid-colored pastel shade woolen or cashmere neckties.
HATS
Pronounced dwindling of the English fad for felts in hot weather. And apparently every last man who has given up the felt has gone for the sailor sennit straw. In the majority of instances, the sailor is worn with a club striped band. Panamas just about as important as in past seasons; it is the sailor sennit straw that has shown a surprisingly great gain.
SHOES
At the Seminole Golf club at least one man in every foursome wore brown buckskin golf shoes, either spiked or with crepe rubber sole and heel. The plain white buckskin shoe with black sole and heel still leads. The best dressed men, in fact, the majority at Palm Beach, treat these shoes with a polish that actually makes white buckskin shine, and varnish the sole and heel. A new note in these shoes is the use of heavy saddle stitching on the sole.
The brown and white and black shoes are by no means out of the picture, of course, but they are receding before the advance of the plain white shoe. A new note in all sport shoes: the use of exposed eyelets. Dress oxfords are of shorter vamp and rather high heel.
And finally to the last illustration of summer series, here is one from summer of 34’
Image 4-15-18 at 6.43 PM (2) by The London Lounge, on FlickrThe outfit on the left and right are about the two extremes that can be found in cruise / summer wear. First lest discuss the fellow on the left. Referred to as “something out of a bandbox” by their editors, this translates to a very casual attire. A DB brown gabardine jacket, a lightweight blue knitted polo shirt, and tan cotton trousers that can almost be called yellow because of its predominantly yellow cast. Shoes are brown and white buckskin. This outfit is recommended only for proper boat wear or for deck games and as such the jacket can be dispensed with if the needs be.
Lets discuss the gent (an Englishman again) on the right. This is the most formal suit of 3pc SB with 3 button roll lapels, jetted pockets, a DB vest with peak lapels and a six or eight button “v” front. Worn here in an off-white color (again) in a tropical (can be washable) lightweight fabric. His shirt blue is worn with a starched collar that goes accordingly with the heightened formality of the suit. Tie is of blue with white polka dots.
It was noted that many men preferred starched collars to soft collars during summer months because of their ability to hold up shape in hot and humid environments.
Personally speaking I think this combination will work immensely better with a light sky blue shirt rather than a darker shade. Now let us discuss the finer details. Like I mentioned this suit’s silhouette is the Most formal that you can possibly wear. Imagine this suit in a dark grey or navy worsted and you have the ultimate formal suit, right below semi-formal daywear or evening wear. Note here that the shoes are white buckskin done in a wingtip brogue model with black varnished leather soles! This is a striking change from all the other summer shoes that are observed above. In this case substituting these shoes with the customary red rubber soled ones will completely ruin the look…because those rubber soled shoes will not go well with the suit’s dressy style.
All in all you are probably best of limiting yourself to a standard 3 piece suit today in lighter colors with a single breasted vest. Save your creative whims like a DB vest for more sober solid winter weights. Refrain from using pure white at all costs!
This also serves as a great example for people who think the limitations of peak lapel are just to city suiting or dark colored fabrics. This is a strange phenomenon that is presented above; i.e. city styling and summer / casual/ country fabrics & patterns.
Now, naturally you will ask…Can the reverse be done? Meaning, country / summer / casual styling on a city fabric…example will be a hacking style suit cut in a blue serge with slanted pockets (including ticket pocket) and tab extension at the collar. Is this good or bad? You decide ...though…it was almost never done back in the days.
Noteworthy, also is the fact that despite the common misconception…DB jacket with hacking pockets is NOT an example of this. Here if you introduce slanted pockets (including a Ticket) on a DB, you are mixing two radically different style aspects together…Not the fabrics of one with styling of another as described above. As such, the introduction of regular ticket pockets on DB is like joining two styles half way in between.
This concludes our summer series. The next ones will focus more on Fall & winter articles.
Sincerely
etutee
but I imagine it can render a very smart look if done properly. Do you happen to have illustrations that depict such combination?
Miguel