These are the detailed versions. Accurate & precise text will be added in photo journal section later. You will also be able to view most of them over there for exact AA/ ESQ text.
Since our primary focus last time was on SB country suiting, I decided to go ahead and choose a few DB models this time. Mainly for town & dressy wear.
Our first illustration is from early 40s during either Mar-April Months. Sadly, the exact date on this is lost but it surely is no earlier than 42’ & no later than 44’. Clearly judging from the presence of Marine officer in the illustration it is from WWII era.
Vol. I No. II (March '05) Page 1 by The London Lounge, on FlickrThis is the AA / Esq illustration where they famously "endorsed" Glen-Plaid DB version for proper town wear. You can agree with them or disagree that is up to you but nevertheless keep two things in mind. 1 Glen Plaid is above all a country pattern (at least its origins) and 2. DB is essentially a town model (again some exceptions like DB patch pocket odd jacket or blazers). How you decide to mix and match these is upto your personal taste but never forget their origins.
Anyways, so back to the illustration. This is classic 6x2 style DB model with red over plaid & with jetted pockets. Worn here with red foulard tie and a light blue / greenish striped shirt. Over here noteworthy is the line of the shoulders i.e. quite broad. A detail that start to signify the exaggeration of the “Drape” model introduced in 30s. Slowly but surely, later during the decade… the terms English Drape, British Blade, or British Lounge fell into disuse (certainly true for US market) and only “Lounge Suit” or “Suit” remained.
Note the lower button on the jacket is left unfastened, a detail that predominated in the decades to follow. Pre 40s…mostly in 20s & 30s it was quite fashionable to fasten all buttons on DB except when Roll-lapel version was worn in which case the upper button was left unfastened. Note the size of the check above.
Our next illustration is from summer 34’. Presented here so that you can pack the right “gear” when leaving for spring/ summer vacations.
Gentlemen I invite you to look and appreciate something long forgotten from apparel markets of today. A glorious DB 6X2 jacket with patch pockets that is cut along easy, soft lines.
dbpatch1copy1jj by The London Lounge, on FlickrThis was best recommended for proper resort and spectator sports. Now a days this can be used almost anywhere within reason.
Starting from the top; hat is brown leghorn with white shantung (silk) “puggaree” band. A panama or sennit straw hat may also be worn if such is your style. For jacket and trousers they can be either parts of complete suits, to give you as many possibilities as possible in the way of change of outfits. Jacket is light tan in color can be either an odd jacket in gabardine***, flannel or shantung, or part of a suit of the first two above mentioned materials. The light grey flannel trousers maybe odd pants, or part of a complete suit of this exact same model. AA/ Esq recommended both colors and fabrics as interchangeable. Also noteworthy is the fact that jacket maybe lighter than trousers just as perfectly it can be darker.
A few things here about this combination of gray and tan or browns. This is one of those cases where an illustartion or picture looks better than the real life examples. For whatever reason I always think that gray matches up with blue MUCH better than with tans or browns and personally try to use earthly tones of tans / sand / khaki to match up with browns. Whether you like that combination is up to your personal taste but it is certainly correct even though a bid odd. If you are using a gray as in above picture keep the shade as light as possible.
Another thing worth mentioning here is that this DB odd jacket can take a patch or welt for the breast pocket. Welt pocket for breast makes it somewhat less sporty than all three being patch.
***Contrary to a very popular belief, the recommended weight of Gabardine for summer wear by AA / Esq was 12-13 oz. According to them it was precisely this weight that helped it tailor much better. Plus it was the weave that was of primary interest in summer not necessarily the weight.
Note the shirt, an interestingly clever idea to pair up white soft lounge (point) collar worn pinned here in a tan broadcloth body with matching cuffs. A scheme usually reserved for formal events, however the formality was reduced (above illustration) by substitution of a soft point collar in place of separate spread or cutaway, secondly it is worn pinned. A button-down soft shirt in oxford cloth can be worn as well. The Tie and handkerchief are both of red foulard but they need not match. AA / Esq advices its readers to keep them apart (a far better choice). They can match in either pattern or color but NEVER both.
Shoes are plain white buckskin with red rubber soles and heels and they are without linings…in true summer way. King George V made these white buckskin immensely fashionable back then. Two-tone “spectator” shoes in chestnut and white buckskin are also an appropriate choice.
Now…with those details aside note a few things, kindly. See that the lower button on the jacket is fastened (very acceptable in 30s) . Also note the 4 buttons on the cuff and the width of the lapels (covering over ¾ of the chest). A DB peak lapel must be given breadth and / or dimension to effectively display its beauty. Breast pocket with this style of jacket was usually in patch but can be perfectly of the "welt" type (regular) also. Note the length of the trousers. See how they effectively rest on top of the shoe. No break here (particularly for causal settings).
Our 3rd illustration for this series is also from summer of 34’.
bi_belt_back_copy by The London Lounge, on FlickrAt first glance quite similar to the illustration above yet incredibly different at a closer inspection. This is an outfit that was recommended for morning to noon and night activities at a summer resort (all except formal evening occasions). These days, as with above mentioned illustration, you can wear it almost anywhere and still be considered “dressed-up”. Shown over here with a polo shirt, trousers, a foulard muffler in place of a (collared) shirt & a tie when jacket is added. This odd jacket is a two button notched lapel model with a belted back and a “bi-swing” pleat that that allows complete freedom of swing. (Look at the shoulder blade section to see a huge pleat).
This jacket is of linen or Palm Beach cloth, usually in the shade of natural linen, the light tan shade shown here. The trousers are blue-gray, either of light flannel or of even lighter weight washable fabrics. The shoes are plain white buckskin, without toecaps, with red rubber soles and heels.
AA/ Esq recommended that you need not have any hesitancy about showing up without a shirt and with a foulard muffler doing the shirt customary duty in filling the “v” of your jacket. This is a stunt that started sometime summer of 33’ and gained great acceptance during the Palm Beach season where it was affected by the best-dressed sportsmen there. Now, they in turn were following the lead of the lordly folk who inhibited the watering places of French Riviera during early 30s.
Now that said….you can always wear a shirt and tie (like recommended in pervious illustration) with this outfit and effectively increase its formality. This jacket goes exceptionally well with golfing outfits. Note the “bellows” pockets…that is mainly patch with a flap on top and the two buttons on the sleeves (that are one button distance apart).
As rare as they are these days, these belted jackets can also be in either double pointed yoke, one-piece belt with inverted box pleats (running from yoke point to waist line). Center seam from waist to bottom finished with inverted pleat
OR
In square yoke back with one piece belt. Four laid pleats and center box pleat usually extending from yoke to belt. Inverted box pleat in center seam below waistline. Belts on both instances can be plain (like in picture) or heavily stitched.
Further more the belt length in addition to half-length (only back) & full-length (all around) can also be of three-quarter length, in which case the belt crossing over generously gathers at the waistline and ends in vertical darts well towards the front. This belt-usually hugs the waist very well, giving the jacket a very smart suppressed effect, which, together with the appearance of long lines ( due to the paralleling of the darts and the coat front) gives an unusually long appearance. A style most flattering to shorter gentlemen.
Kindly keep in mind that all these details simply cannot be added correctly in a RTW garment (with a pre-supposed model) then applied to an actual customer…hence their decline. More than often it require the critically keen eye of the tailor (or customer), that effectively locates the correct positioning on your jacket with according proportions. Mere correct positioning or proportions by themselves are no good. It is the combined harmony of these two that results in the most flattering bespoke silhouette for the customer.
(Actually there are a few more interesting belt-back styles but I will adhere to them for a later discussion)
Finally…we reach to the last illustration for this series. The most formal outfit of all in this series…and accordingly will accompany most detailed commentary.
From Spring 36’. Perfect for your Easter and other formal daytime festivities.
Vol. I No. II (March '05) Page 7 by The London Lounge, on FlickrThis gentlemen is a (in foreground) 3-pc DB suit in herringbone pattern that is of sturdy (somewhat) hard finished worsted fabric. Done here in a long 6x2 “Roll” lapel model, in which the lapel “rolls” over all the way to the lower button but can be effectively worn at the middle button stance also. This style of DB was immensely popularized in 1930s by Duke of Kent….though his suits were usually of 4 buttons rather than customary 6. Later Duke of Windsor also picked up this style, in similar 4 button DB jackets. See the picture at the bottom of this description.
Rest of the outfit includes black Tie, worn here with white pearl stick-pin, an Oxblood-striped Madras shirt worn with white spread collar and a white pocket square. Note how the stick-pin and striped shirt serve as the “noise absorbers” for the noise generated by black tie. Outdoors, a dark blue or gray overcoat and a black homburg would be most appropriate. Modern day rendition of this suit will be without a vest.
Now, lets move towards the details. Note the jetted pockets. Starting from the top, note that the sleeve head is very slightly raised (rope effect) most due to the added layer of slight pad at the sleeve head. A practice, very commonly done (to this date by some tailors) when shoulders are without much padding.
Observe the armhole… placed very high and precisely (can be seen much better due to raised arm). Note the curved shape (Contour lines) of the jacket….from armhole (chest) to the waist line and then from waist to the bottom (skirt). This jacket has higher placed button stance which is of utmost importance to gentlemen of shorter height….see the position of the lowest button with respect to jackets hem. See the taper on the sleeves, which “grips” the shirt cuff beautifully without letting it move much.
Now lets move towards the lapel…nothing short of an art itself. Gentlemen, if I can have your careful attention for a moment….lets start with the outer line of the lapel (at the lowest button). Note, its “roll” from lowest to the middle button…this is one of the most vital areas that give lapel its life so to speak. The effect of the roll (or lack) is most apparent in these first few critical centimeters.
Then from middle to top button note the continuation of the curve ever so slightly and then all the way till top…this lapel is never stagnant. While it is not my personal style (I like them more straight)…nevertheless it is quite impeccable, to say the least. Then regarding DB peak lapels, the width is also noteworthy….covering more than ¾ of the upper chest area it is precisely this width that gives it a thoroughly pleasing aesthetical effect. In a DB if the gorge is set low then the button stance must be shifted accordingly to a lower length….tough not recommended for anyone unless excessively tall (usually the shape of the jacket is greatly effected). If the gorge is lower yet the button stance is at regular height it results in some what un-flatteringly short lapels, which often compromise the entire look.
Finally while we are at it let me mention one more item of importance…i.e the “overlap” or sometime referred to as the “crossover” effect.
Overlap or cross over refers to the placement (horizontal distance) of the buttons in a DB jacket. Normally 11.5 cms to 15 cms… maybe 15.5 is (or was) used. The closer the distance…i.e. narrow crossover or overlap…the more vertical shaped the lapel will be. Much recommended for smaller men. Astaire’s DB suits are prime example. (Note that these measurements are NOT constant for all sizes and a rough guide for say a size 40R jacket. Actual width will varry on customers measurements and tailor's discretion)
Now conversely, larger crossover is much preferred for tall and slim gentlemen, where emphasis must be on width rather than length…i.e. more, horizontal then vertical look. Here, the lapels tend to move more in a horizontal fashion…thereby increasing breadth. Prime examples would be suits worn by Cary Grant or Gary Cooper. In this case, the position of the gorge can be low also…without much harm…infact it is often preferred by tall men.
Now the question becomes what if a slim (but not so short) man wants a wide look? The solution is something truly brilliant. For such a case where horizontal lapels are needed with a narrow crossover…the anchor button positioning is changed….such that it is a few small cms away from the edge of the jacket.
The result?
You have horizontal shaped lapels (moving across) yet the overlap/crossover is still on the narrow (vertical) side.
Finally…we move to the trousers. First thing you should note is that they are quite full in cut compared to the jacket (where often 2-to-4 darts are used). This is a typical characteristic of suits from Savile Row during 30s (still somewhat true)…this was observed much more on the suits from US during that era. This fitted jacket and full cut pants combination was also a personal favorite of the Duke. Yet, one thing that clearly sets apart that era (from nowadays) was “fall” or line of the pants. They almost always rested on top of the shoes…usually with only a slight hint of a break.
Here in this above illustration….this is also true. Note the crease of the pants both front and back leg. On the left leg (straight) the line continues all the way down to the cuffs without any interruption whatsoever….something that is quite hard to accomplish.
Shoes are black calf on a town last. Note the shapely waist on the shoes.
Now…lets shift our attention toward the suit in the back ground. It is a 3pc SB suit in classic navy serge variety. Worn here with a white shirt, yellow colored tie and black town shoes. Now what is so special about this? You will ask.
Well, this is one of the VERY few instances in AA / Esq where a plain white solid shirt was seen with a solid colored suit. Note this for what it is worth…that AA / Esq people tried their best possible to avoid white shirts at all (for lounge suits)….especially for solid suits. This is a scheme that you will see over and over with well dressed people of the era.
Rightfully so!
It is precisely in the color / pattern mixing and matching that a master will be revealed apart from a novice or a beginner.
You will see these great dressers of the past, countless times wearing shirts that are almost solid…yet not quite (usually with micro small stripes or other intricate patterns), seemed white but on closer inspection…always with color. Usually, something like very light shades of blues, grey and cream. It often seems like that they looked for an excuse to use pattern and color.
This above mentioned phenomenon was also observed…even in formal wear. It is noteworthy that they (sartorial luminaries) even outrageously “flirted” with Black & White schemes for formal wear. Midnight Blue (for evening wear) & Oxford grey (for formal daywear) are prime examples of this.
I wrote “flirted” because at first glance it appears that they wore solid colored shirts & ties …yet…on closer look…always different. From a distance always black and white (for formal wear)….yet again…not quite. This “flirtation”…so to speak was one of the many tasteful characteristics / skills of the era….& well employed by all great dressers.
The main idea was (or is) to take the color & pattern away from formal wear and inject it elsewhere….when ever possible. So…less formal the garment, higher was the “potency” of this color / pattern injection. Therefore, you saw the most amazing and beautiful patterns appeared for country and weekend suits.
Actually, there are a few other details I can go over…but I think this should do it for the time being. Remember, white shirts are and always will be classic but they should not be used as an excuse for a lack of style. If the conditions permit you should try to employ pattern matching whenever possible so that you get more efficent at it.
Here is the Duke of Kent style DB from late summer-early fall 36'.
Vol. I No. II (March '05) Page 11 by The London Lounge, on FlickrBelieve it or not this is in blue flannel model with white spread (& bold) chalk stripes, though they can be of grey color too. Lapel is rolled to the bottom (with 4 buttons instead of usual 6) & side vents at the back. Note the shirt with stripes that are scarlet in color much like the pervious picture (oxblood stripe there). Black tie, animal figured stick pin (a stunt started by the duke of Windsor), brown buck town shoes, bowler and most interestingly...white stiff (separate) collar on the shirt. Exactly like the pervious illustration. Trousers are full cut along with overall easy lines of the jacket.
So now you can see both the versions of this roll lapel suit. This later one was Duke of Kent's favorite. Also, note that the later one is less formal than the former (solid grey DB).
Sincerely
Etutee
Miguel