Jacket in progress

[zegnamtl]

Yesterday I visited a tailor that I have been using only for alterations and repairs to date. He has a good background as a tailor but I have seen little of his own work.

I brought him some fabric that I purchased recently from Douglas Woollens in Montreal (thank you to LL members for bringing this shop to my attention) to have a jacket made.

This jacket will be what I deem a heavy use jacket, (see jpeg below) so the fabric is a rather thick and with a tough weave. The tailor is aware of the abuse it will suffer as he has repaired damaged shoulders for me in the past.

I am fortunate in the sense that I do not have to run around looking like many photojournalists you see and most certainly none of those you see in TV programming or Hollywood’s take on the trade. I spend most of my time going against the grain of the trade and carry little more than what you see below.

He has assured me he will construct the shoulders slightly differently to help withstand the straps. How he plans to approach this was not stated but the shoulders did not feel like anything I have worn to date.

One of my concerns is that he took only 10 measurements before starting out. He knows that I am very close to a perfect 40r, but none the less I was surprised by this.

When I was giving him my thoughts on how I would like to see the jacket, he clearly viewed my thoughts as mere rough guidelines. When I explained I will use this as a work piece and therefore I would like it a little shorter than normal, he replied: no, I don’t like it too short. he did compromise and meet me half way.

I asked for special pockets to place 3 or 4 of my flash memory cards inside the jacket to be safe but within quick reach. He was very accommodating to these requests.

I find the button stance a touch low.

I had hoped to take a few pictures during the first fitting, but it is rather awkward to shoot into a mirror while a tailor is attempting to measure and adjust.

The canvass work was beautifully done. I wanted to shoot the inside of the jacket and he was less than enthralled with the idea, the jacket disappeared to the back room!

I have another fitting at the end of the week.
Hopefully I will someone come along to shoot a few pictures and get a better explanation of his approach to my shoulder abuse issues.

[pchong]

Nice cameras and lenses! what body are those? I recognise the 70-200 f/2.8L (I have the same lens) but don't recognise the other - red ring L lens, but don't recognise the lens shade.

A little to comment on the coat, looks like the right front quarter is shorter?

[zegnamtl]

Only one side of the jacket was pinned at this point as we debated length and button stance.

The lens is a 28-70 2.8
I work with only two bodies, and two lenses,
either a 14mm, a 17-35 2.8 or the above mentioned.

Occasionally I will add a Leica M series body.

[TVD]

No interlining yet, or can my eagle eyes spot fused interlining? That is usually darker than the mottled natural linne plus horsehair colour of the traditional canvas.

[zegnamtl]

This tailor does no fusing.
It was the first question I asked.
Full canvass or nothing at all.

The canvass was partially sewn inside.
I felt it and it appeared to be nicely done.
I had hoped to shoot it for commentary, but alas, the tailor did not approve of this.

[TVD]

Ah, I see. It is already the proper cloth covering the lapel. Sorry, I am just used to the upper side of the lapels not being added until the second fitting, which leaves room to adjust the width and shape at the first. These things may differ from one tailor to the next.

[zegnamtl]

TVD,

No the cloth on the lapel is only basted in, and is not the final fabric.
But this is one of my concerns.

I find the tailor's approach is as if he knew my frame inside out and hand made dozens of suits for me in the past.
Perhaps I am overly concerned for nothing.

[alden]

Dear Sir,

I would like to see the buttoning point about 3/4 inch higher then where it is now. I think it willl give your jacket better shape. Showing less shirt gives what you do show more effect, a more concentrated look.

Keep us up to date on the next fitting.

[TVD]

He has already cut the pockets, so the length of the jacket can only be shortened a bit without making it look out of proportion. the canvas is an unusual colour for me, but the basted stitches on the outside and your description of the inside indicate all is weel with the unfused canvas.

I agree that the button stance could be a hint higher.

Obviously he likes to do things his way. Usually it makes little sense to argue beyond a certain point. Let him finish, and it will either work out and you will love the result, or you will try another tailor next time. What you have so far does not look catastrophic by any means.

Please post photographs of your progress.

[Incroyable]

Only one side of the jacket was pinned at this point as we debated length and button stance.

The lens is a 28-70 2.8
I work with only two bodies, and two lenses,
either a 14mm, a 17-35 2.8 or the above mentioned.

Occasionally I will add a Leica M series body.

I think you should add a Rolleiflex although the Leica M, especially the M3 is quite classic and practical.

[jklu]

Much as I, as a proud owner, love the M3 and Rolleiflexes, a metered M body - perhaps even with AE - would be more practical.

[pchong]

Unfortunately, these days, a digital body is way more practical, especially if one shoots moving objects like portraits or sports.

If I had the choice, for work which does not require speed, like landscape or architecture, and where a sturdy tripod is available I would go back to a totally manual method and get an Alpa 12SW with a suitable Zeiss Biogon T* 38mm f/4.5 or Schneider 38mm f/5.6 Super Angulon XL. Would be marvellous!

I was speaking with Thomas Weber (one of the founders of the company which revived the famous Swiss camera manufacturer) recently, and he told me that Alpa can indeed be fitted with a digital back, I believe Leaf and perhaps others make such a digital back.

[zegnamtl]

Gentlemen,

I dashed in for my second fitting today.

Mr. Alden, I have asked him to raise the button stance as prescribed.

I was alone and did not bring a camera today, the tailor was more clearly more comfortable.

While inspecting the interior pockets and other details, it became clear that jacket is in fact a mix of fused and canvass after all.

TVD, you were right.
The jacket he claims is fused in the lower area near the pockets to save weight,
"it would be just heavy otherwise" it is canvassed in the upper chest area.
He had originally agreed on fully canvassed.
The jacket is taking shape nicely, and is far from a disaster, the lapel work that has been done is well done.

But I do believe that my search for a bespoke tailor will continue.

[JRS]

I'm curious, where did you have it made? (this is gqgeek btw) I've been considering trying to find a cheaper tailor for my next jacket, but I couldn't bear the thought of getting something I was completely unsatisfied with in an attempt to save a few hundred bucks. I've been meaning to try out Giovanni Troiano with some pants, but it keeps getting put off b/c I've been doing big wardrobe upgrades in other areas and there's only so much money to go around!

[zegnamtl]

Good evening JRS,

I went for my final fitting, the jacket will be ready this week.
It is going to perfect for a working jacket that will take a beating.
But I have realized that I would not get a fine piece made at this shop.
It was done by Prestige in Ville St. Laurent.

TVD was correct with his eagle eye,
the jacket has some fusing.

Not in the same league as Achod, who I believe you have used?
From what I can see, Achod is perhaps the best in the city at the moment.

I do not believe I have visited Giovanni Troiano,
I assume this is not the shop on St. Laurent blvd, just before little Italy, west side?

I fully concur on the shameful lack of funds restricting our desires!