The London Lounge

As a followup to the previous post (Let's start by defining Bespoke), here is a repost of "Bespoke patterns" article that seeks to differentiate the process and use of bespoke versus MTM patterns more clearly. In MTM a garment is made to a standard pattern and then altered to fit the customer. In "bespoke tailoring", a pattern is made for the client. Note: Please see Tom Mahon's blog www.englishcut.com for more detailed examples and discussion. For example this post: http://www.englishcut.com/archives/000030.html

"Bespoke Patterns"

The pattern is like the foudation of a house. By starting with a
standard pattern (in MTM) rather than one cut for you (bespoke), you are
starting purposefully with an error. Then you are trying to rectify
the error (you made willingly) with alterations. Would you build the
foundation of your home incorrectly, pour the concrete and then
modify the house? Probably not.

But there is an even more important reason not to work this way. To
acheive the fit and the style of jacket you want, the most important
bit of work is the cutting. That is why "cutters" are the superstars
of, for example, SR tailors. They have to be the best. If the cut is
not right, then the jacket will be flawed. So given all this
attention and importance to the cutting, you can appreciate why the
pattern (the roadmap or blueprint for the cutting) must be exactly
right.

I must say I agree. A bespoke pattern should be generated using solely:

1] Observation of the client's figure
2] Discussion of the client's preferences and desires
3] A sufficient number of measures (37 minimum for shirts)
4] A Tailor's square
5] A blank manilla paper or oaktag
6] A pencil
7] A modicum of knowledge

P.S.: The "Bespoke Pattern" link does not work. Hence advance apologies for any duplication on my part.