The London Lounge

What is the practical reason for having the coat back as two pieces? Would you ever do it as a single piece?

I think the main reason is that it's easier to fit the suit as it is being made, and then easier to alter it later (if necessary). I have known taliors who prefer to make certain plaids with a one-piece back, because they think a backseam interrupts the cloth's pattern in an unwelcome way.

If you take a profile look of man standing and note the curve of his spine and how it goes forward at his neck, out at his blades, in at his waist and out again below his spine at his buttocks. Like a soft, reversed letter S. It is easier from a cutting stand point to cover correctly this area with a 2 piece back. Also, baring in mind the multitude of single vented jackets there are in the US, you will realize the absolute need for a center seam in order to achieve the construction of a vent.

In New York, Fioravanti makes all his coats with a one piece back. He does manages to achieve a good looking back on all his clothes, but uses a great deal of padding in doing so. his clothes normally fit and look very good, disregarding, of course, if you like or dislike his house style.

Leoanrd

I was in Raphael’s shop this morning for a third fitting on my first suit from him (actually, it was the third for the coat, second for both trousers and first for the waistcoat). I saw two large over-plaid tweed coats that were made with a one-piece back. One cloth was especially beautiful.

I know why Raphael does it with some patterns, but I can’t decide whether or not I like it or prefer the way the seam actually accentuates the angles of the back by highlighting the convergence of the vertical lines in the cloth pattern.

So were they yours smoothjazzone?

dopey wrote: So were they yours smoothjazzone?

No -- although I know the jackets you are speaking of -- the one that is really nice is an Alsport 19oz. fabric. If I could fit into that size . . .

I am curious which of the two you that was the really nice one. They were both beautiful,. I liked the one with the hot pink stripes. I commented to Raphael that its base color almost looked inside out or like mattress ticking. The effect was really unusual. The other was beautiful too, but more conventional.