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Patterns for outerwear
Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2018 4:18 pm
by alden
A question came up today about using fabrics with pattern for overcoats, walking coats and car coats (3/4 coats.) I have been a fan of these garments for quite some time and I find they are very useful ie they get worn a lot. Worn over a roll neck sweater they can be very chic.
What do you think?
Cheers
IMG_0066 by
The London Lounge, on Flickr
30853742235_f463b9525f_o by
The London Lounge, on Flickr
6100719616_f1b1f85e2d_o by
The London Lounge, on Flickr
IMG_0370 by
The London Lounge, on Flickr
5450702553_a12d94e627_b (1) by
The London Lounge, on Flickr
IMG_0781 by
The London Lounge, on Flickr
Re: Patterns for outerwear
Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2018 4:40 pm
by couch
Absolutely. Is the shooting coat (#5) the LL covert cloth? I still regret missing that subscription . . . . Did #4 (light tan with blue check) get past the test stage? That would be very close to the color I favored for the recently discussed herringbone tweed based on David's description. The check made up as you wear it is superb. Would also make a great odd jacket. As you demonstrate, that general color looks great with jeans, and the light blue and white shadow-check really lifts it.
Edit: many of the RTW shooting coats from Holland & Holland, Chrysalis, Barbour, etc. are patterned tweeds, so there's plenty of precedent for patterned outerwear in the field sports area, suitable for rus in urbe adaptation.
Re: Patterns for outerwear
Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2018 5:54 pm
by alden
Absolutely. Is the shooting coat (#5) the LL covert cloth? I still regret missing that subscription . . . . Did #4 (light tan with blue check) get past the test stage? That would be very close to the color I favored for the recently discussed herringbone tweed based on David's description. The check made up as you wear it is superb. Would also make a great odd jacket. As you demonstrate, that general color looks great with jeans, and the light blue and white shadow-check really lifts it.
Couch
The shooting coat (#5) is LL 1000 gms whipcord. I have an overcoat made from it as well. A real beauty. Both of them.
#4 Tweed never made it. It is a bit more straw color than what you wanted, but a very nice tweed 3/4 coat nonetheless. I made the test in a rugged 700 gms quality to mimic the old (real) Brora tweed. And, yes, this coat is perfect with jeans, and a blue shirt or a blue roll neck sweater. The hand sewn coat has crescent patch pockets and a spalla camicia.
It was a test for Fall 2011...my how time flies..another missed opportunity.
Cheviot tweed sports coat for Fall 2001 by
The London Lounge, on Flickr
There is a great photo of Edwin DeBoise wearing the original Brora version somewhere on the LL. And it looked great as a jacket...some lucky LL member has it.
Cheers
Re: Patterns for outerwear
Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2018 6:38 pm
by ggreen
These are very practical indeed. 4 out 5 times my hand pulls something in this length out of the closet. The one for me would be number 3. I love the light green with railroad overcheck. I don't think this was ever proposed for a subscription?
What do you gentlemen think of raglan sleeve on these shorter coats? Does raglan look too balky on a shorter coat?
Greg
Re: Patterns for outerwear
Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2018 6:46 pm
by alden
What do you gentlemen think of raglan sleeve on these shorter coats? Does raglan look too balky on a shorter coat?
The Raglan works best on the longer walking coats like #3. A well cut Raglan can be well worn in a 3/4 as well. But I prefer a set in sleeve/spalla camicia on the short coats for the extreme comfort of very high arm holes.
Cheers
Re: Patterns for outerwear
Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2018 9:09 pm
by couch
alden wrote:
The shooting coat (#5) is LL 1000 gms whipcord. I have an overcoat made from it as well. A real beauty. Both of them.
#4 Tweed never made it. It is a bit more straw color than what you wanted, but a very nice tweed 3/4 coat nonetheless. I made the test in a rugged 700 gms quality to mimic the old (real) Brora tweed. And, yes, this coat is perfect with jeans, and a blue shirt or a blue roll neck sweater. The hand sewn coat has crescent patch pockets and a spalla camicia.
It was a test for Fall 2011...my how time flies..another missed opportunity.
Cheviot tweed sports coat for Fall 2001 by
The London Lounge, on Flickr
There is a great photo of Edwin DeBoise wearing the original Brora version somewhere on the LL. And it looked great as a jacket...some lucky LL member has it.
Cheers
Ah, I remember that whipcord now. 1000 grams! The proposed tweed #4 color would work fine for me, either in the more straw/orange cast of the photo with the gray scale or the slightly pinker cast of the photo of your coat. I'd love it as a plain herringbone, and would also consider the test as originally made.
This prompts a thought. Given that the membership and its buying power evolves over time (and is growing again), would it make sense to augment the "Good Intentions Trail" thread to gather photos of all the tests that didn't make the threshold in the past, so that if any of them garnered sufficient interest they could be resurrected? Since you've already gone to the trouble of commissioning the tests, the effort to resurrect would presumably be limited to gathering and documenting sufficient demand. Perhaps the thread might be retitled to be more recognizable (though sacrificing some literary style) for new members? Something like "Archive Photos of Past Cloth Club Tests Not Yet Produced"?
Re: Patterns for outerwear
Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2018 11:18 pm
by Concordia
couch wrote:
This prompts a thought. Given that the membership and its buying power evolves over time (and is growing again), would it make sense to augment the "Good Intentions Trail" thread to gather photos of all the tests that didn't make the threshold in the past, so that if any of them garnered sufficient interest they could be resurrected? Since you've already gone to the trouble of commissioning the tests, the effort to resurrect would presumably be limited to gathering and documenting sufficient demand. Perhaps the thread might be retitled to be more recognizable (though sacrificing some literary style) for new members? Something like "Archive Photos of Past Cloth Club Tests Not Yet Produced"?
+1.
Re: Patterns for outerwear
Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2018 11:53 pm
by timjin
couch wrote:
This prompts a thought. Given that the membership and its buying power evolves over time (and is growing again), would it make sense to augment the "Good Intentions Trail" thread to gather photos of all the tests that didn't make the threshold in the past, so that if any of them garnered sufficient interest they could be resurrected?
Good idea. +1.
Re: Patterns for outerwear
Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2018 12:10 am
by alden
Past Cloth Club Tests..ok (PCCT)
Couch,
The picture of the coat gives a better representation of the colors than the snippet of cloth photo. Its more straw than butter.
Cheers
Re: Patterns for outerwear
Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2018 12:39 am
by alden
The 1000 gram whipcord was another exceptional cloth. We made a series of LL bags with the cloth as well. It was so incredibly robust.
My overcoat made from it was a Covert Coat design. There were pictures of the test coat way back when. I still wear it. The two other guys who got the rest of the test, still wear their coats every Winter and love it too!
No one wanted it.
Cheers
Re: Patterns for outerwear
Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2018 2:32 pm
by alden
I am adding all the pictures I have of the various past tests to the Good Intentions Trail thread.
If some of you Testers of the past would like to post pictures of your clothing, it would be appreciated by us all!
Cheers