The London Lounge

A few things occurred to me this Fall as the colder weather moved in.

I mentioned in an earlier post but will repeat myself for emphasis regarding linen shirts. They should be as much a constant for cool weather as for warm. Avoid cotton at all costs and wear flannel when possible. We have access now to the highest quality linen made, but flannel is a different story. And I saw a flannel shirting sample book from the 1930s the other day and intend on trying to resurrect them if the CC awakes from its current coma and we can get back to making great fabrics again.

The other thing that came to mind for Fall dress is the value off the rollneck, turtleneck or Polo sweater. Keeping your neck covered is a great idea in cool weather and the Polo sweater is a very stylish and efficient way to do it.

Finally, having made two items of outerwear in a 50/50 wool/cashmere blend this summer, I am convinced that this is one of the very best fabrics for cool weather. The wonderful warmth of cashmere paired with the strength and resistance of wool makes a great fabric for our tailors to work with. And so I have initiated a project to make the highest quality blend possible for the CC. It isn’t as easy as it seems but I imagine the result will be extraordinary.

Cheers

Certainly agree with the above.

Cashmere/wool blend is the tops for warmth and durability.
I don't own anything with a 50-50 blend but know that cashmere will certainly keep you very warm. Right now I only have a 90/10 wool/cashmere blend coat and even that warms great.

Though I combine it with a cashmere scarf from Begg in a wispy weave, neutral oatmeal color - very practical and beautiful quality - and that helps a great deal with the cold. .

A roll neck – also great for cold weather.
I bought one recently in black single ply cashmere from Lockie over the net – inspired by previous comments here on LL. Certainly one of the best and most useful purchases I have made in quite a long time. I measure the usefulness of a particular item by how often I actually wear it – and a black turtleneck gets a lot of use this season.

I wear the turtle neck often with an old pair of black Chelsea boots, previously collecting dust, and I must say they have also proven very enjoyable to wear with the turtle neck, they seem to work well together.

No flannel dress shirts yet but would certainly be up for that idea.
Just have some very casual flannel shirts from firms like L.L. Bean and they serve their purpose as well.

I think that clothing providing warmth is the overriding consideration in this winter season but certainly why not try to put it all together stylishly?

What I had on my list for the next fall/winter shirt is a Cahmerello cloth made by Alumo. It is a 85/15 cotton/cahmere mix, with a great soft hand.
Michael, were you referring to woolen flannels or cotton flannels for winter shirtings? I was not aware (yet) of woolen shortings at all

emde wrote: woolen flannels or cotton flannels for winter shirtings? I was not aware (yet) of woolen shirtings at all

Although not as common as cotton flannels, there are several sources of RTW wool flannel shirts. Pendleton, LL.Bean, Orvis, Johnson Wollen Mills, etc. Definitely only for the rugged outdoors (or baking oneself at home impersonating a lumberjack).
Something much more dressy, as hinted by Michael, could be very welcome.
Meanwhile, I leave cotton flannel for children´s pajamas and in winter wear viyella shirts instead, which I would highly recommend to everybody. Particularly, if possible, in merino blend, with the right texture for those tweed jackets. It wears soft and warm, but very hard. I still have several T&A tattersalls dating from the 90s in very decent shape.

I second the vote for Viyella. Great stuff. I have nearly a dozen from different makers, most own-brand by Viyella. Made for tweed, or for wearing over a lightweight ribbed rollneck. Don't know how I'd navigate winter without 'em.

Something much more dressy, as hinted by Michael, could be very welcome.

Yes what I saw from the 30s was wool flannel shirts. The samples were all an ecru background with various patterns in gray or brown: glen checks, stripes, windowpanes etc. They looked great to me. I am going to have some samples made.

Cheers

A huge thumbs up to the idea of flannel for shirts. I'd be very interested in this as I really like the idea of thick outdoorsy shirts but my body is not the same shape as the ones upon which the RTW makers base their patterns. There are some great heavy flannel shirtings used by Japanese brands like Iron Heart and The Flat Head, but the shirts don't begin to fit me (or many other Westerners).

We all seem to be talking about casual, fall dress ideas and that is fine since fall and winter suiting is apparent enough. For trousers you cannot go too heavy, and moleskin or corduroy is ideal. Twill shirting, while not as warm as flannel is widely available. Keeping the neck well covered is essential and for this, even the most modest of dressers can wear the scarf without calling the least bit of attention. As for the roll neck sweater, I love them and would pay any reasonable amount if I could only find one in my size of medium tall. I have only seen them in the standard S,M,L,XL and custom does not seem to be an option. Any ideas?

Rodes,

This is one area where the current fashion for skin-tight clothes and low-rise trousers may work in your favor. If you can find a maker who is producing roll neck sweaters cut very close to the body, you may find a size that will work well for you--that is, with long arms and body compared to the chest and waist measurements. For example, I ordered these basic lightweight ribbed turtlenecks to wear under Viyella shirts. The arms, neck, and body are quite snug but the neck is tall (which I prefer) and the sleeves and body are long enough for me (I have a 35" sleeve length for a 39-40" chest and 30.5" waist). They are not superior materials, but if you find a producer you like whose cut fits as these do on the form, you might find you don't need a tall size--you could just go up one size and the fitted cut and elasticity might keep them from being too roomy. Good luck!

couch,
That's a good idea and one that I never thought of. I'll check it out. Thank you.

"Cotton is death." At least that is what explorer, survivalist, outdoors people say.

If I were to wear a cotton roll neck I would become soaked in perperation almost immediately, hot weather or cold. All I would need would be a little breeze from the North and I'd be toast.

Wear wool and linen.

Cheers

I agree, Michael, as a base layer for strenuous outdoor activity in frigid temperatures. I find cotton works nicely in a slightly underheated office or home. But my point was the utility of the current "fashion" cut in this one respect. I have cashmere/cotton blend roll necks cut like this and am on the lookout for pure cashmere rollnecks cut similarly. I can't wear pure wool (even merino) knits directly against my skin without irritation in normal indoor temperatures. I'm open to linen, if I can find a knit with a fitted cut that doesn't sag.

For a base layer for strenuous outdoor activity I rely on wicking synthetics, with wool or a wool blend above. But I don't like the feel of synthetics next to the skin for normal indoor/outdoor wear, especially with tailored clothing.

Perhaps another idea is the traditional neck sweater offered by the UK firm, Guernsey Woolens Ltd. They offer a "bespoke" option which would be ideal. However, I am unfamiliar with the style. Does anyone know if it does a good job of covering the neck?

The nautical sweaters from France and Guernsey usually include to this day some amazingly thick roll neck sweaters. But you had better be fit as a young midshipman to wear one as they are made to wear very very close to the body to improve warmth retention. I have a few of these all wool sweaters that I wear under a heavy coat when the frigid winds blow from the NE. They are the best.

Cheers

alden wrote:"Cotton is death." At least that is what explorer, survivalist, outdoors people say.

Cheers

I love naturally died cotton denim, but it is not practical for cold or wet weather (nor is it particularly comfortable in extreme heat). Therefore, as a future project, would it be possible to create a heavy wool twill cloth made up in the quality of your covert cloth but died blue using natural indigo? Such a cloth could mimic the look and feel of denim but be a lot more practical for extreme weather. In addition to making a great pants, it could be used for coats and jackets as well.

I have a naturally died wool shirt jacket that is a couple of years old, and with wear, it is finally starting to show the same types of color variation that that give naturally died denim such character.