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Buttonholes on traditional bespoke

Posted: Thu May 09, 2013 5:19 pm
by alden
This is what buttonholes on a traditional bespoke shirt should look like, a real work of art.

Image

Cheers

Re: Buttonholes on traditional bespoke

Posted: Wed May 15, 2013 9:02 am
by AndyM
I am surprised by the lack of response to this post. A properly sewn buttonhole is a thing of beauty and usually only found on bespoke, I once watched a tailoress sew a buttonhole on a jacket, she was extremely skilled and fast but it seemed to me to be a complicated procedure! When you see the work that goes into a properly tailored garment the price often becomes very reasonable.
I cannot remember where I heard it but I was told that craftsmanship is about taking care over details.

Re: Buttonholes on traditional bespoke

Posted: Wed May 15, 2013 9:18 am
by andreyb
I guess this is just a case of one picture worthing a thousand words... and definitely worthing more than a thousand one-word replies with "great", "super", "subscribed", etc. Fortunately, they are not en vogue on this non-vogue forum! :)

Andrey

Re: Buttonholes on traditional bespoke

Posted: Wed May 15, 2013 1:00 pm
by Manself
Perhaps the silence is the (non) sound of jaws dropping, and all the members who have recently defended the quality of London shirt making eating their words!

I write this wearing an industrially produced MTM shirt by Simone Abbarchi, and I feel green with envy when I look at the hand-stitched button hole.

Re: Buttonholes on traditional bespoke

Posted: Wed May 15, 2013 1:21 pm
by Scot
and all the members who have recently defended the quality of London shirt making eating their words!
I don't feel the need to eat my words at all. The quality achieved by some London shirtmakers is very good. But this is in a different league and I am delighted to admit it, and to see such craftsmanship still in existence. Is the disctinction between "traditional bespoke" and merely "bespoke" useful in addressing the difference in expectation and outcome? I think it might be.

Re: Buttonholes on traditional bespoke

Posted: Wed May 15, 2013 1:30 pm
by J.S. Groot
To me there is not other response than to cherish that rare feeling of being confronted with something of such aesthetic supremacy.

... And, obviously, to be pleased with the fact that I will be spending the entire fall in Paris and thus hopefully increase the occurrence of such confrontations :D

Re: Buttonholes on traditional bespoke

Posted: Wed May 15, 2013 2:32 pm
by soren
And here's some buttonholes made by a shirtmaker in Bangkok (sic!). Unfused collar and cuffs and thick MoP buttons...

Image

Image

Re: Buttonholes on traditional bespoke

Posted: Thu May 16, 2013 2:51 pm
by Miles Messervy
I had a shirtmaker in Rome who used the same type of thick m-o-p buttons. It's always a pleasure to contemplate their rich, buttery yellow sheen and substantial format. Just this morning, as I put one of his shirts on, I was making a mental note to salvage those buttons once the shirts themselves are no longer wearable.

Re: Buttonholes on traditional bespoke

Posted: Thu May 16, 2013 8:18 pm
by hsw9001
alden wrote:This is what buttonholes on a traditional bespoke shirt should look like, a real work of art.

Image

Cheers
Is the shirt by Lanvin? The pleats and button are similar to an old Lanvin shirt I have seen.

Re: Buttonholes on traditional bespoke

Posted: Thu May 16, 2013 9:06 pm
by Badden
I'm guessing it's Mary Frittolini, who trained under Pierre Duboin, the former head cutter at Lanvin Paris.

Re: Buttonholes on traditional bespoke

Posted: Fri May 17, 2013 6:58 pm
by hectorm
No more guessing here. That´s definitely the hand of Mary Frittolini (present -if not in the direct making of the buttonholes- for sure on the photograph holding the shirt) :D
Oh, come on guys....... well, at least hsw9001 was more subtle.

Re: Buttonholes on traditional bespoke

Posted: Fri May 17, 2013 10:28 pm
by droy3
Does anyone know if Mary travels to NA, and if so where abouts? Also, does she speak English?

Thanks in advance.

Re: Buttonholes on traditional bespoke

Posted: Fri May 17, 2013 11:14 pm
by J.S. Groot
From corresponding with her, I have the impression that her English is excellent, although she claims to be a novice. She travels to Paris.

Re: Buttonholes on traditional bespoke

Posted: Sun May 19, 2013 5:15 am
by ismailalmurtadza
J.S. Groot wrote:From corresponding with her, I have the impression that her English is excellent, although she claims to be a novice. She travels to Paris.

...but her website is in Italian.

murtadza

Re: Buttonholes on traditional bespoke

Posted: Sat May 25, 2013 12:51 pm
by alden
My shirts have at least 16 buttonholes so you can imagine the time in handwork involved. :shock:

And yes, this is a classic example of traditional bespoke at its finest. And yes, this clearly differentiates real craftsmanship from industrially produced CAD CAM MTM products made entirely by machine. They really are not the same products. And all the wanting to believe they are will not change the truth.

Image

Cheers

Michael