The London Lounge

I have had a few emails asking about the correct height for the notch of the DB lapel.

The notch should arrive no higher than the level of the bottom of the tie's knot. It can be a centimeter or two lower, but if it is higher it throws the balance of the entire coat off greatly.



DB lapels by Scholte for the Duke of Windsor illustrate a good position for the notch.




Cheers

Michael Alden

alden wrote: The notch should arrive no higher than the level of the bottom of the tie's knot. It can be a centimeter or two lower, but if it is higher it throws the balance of the entire coat off greatly.

No doubt that is true. But, have you ever seen someone wearing a DB jacket with the peak lapel notch arriving higher than his tie´s knot bottom?
I haven´t see anyone and I´ve been checking since Alden´s entry.
I guess everybody must be following Michael´s good advice.

hectorm wrote:But, have you ever seen someone wearing a DB jacket with the peak lapel notch arriving higher than his tie´s knot bottom?

Dear Hectorm,

there have been pictures, from tailors in Napoli if I remember well, and they were posted somewhere on the LL.

I will do some research later, unless somebody else is faster than me.

cheers, David

[quote="davidhuhthere have been pictures, from tailors in Napoli if I remember well, and they were posted somewhere on the LL.[/quote]

Thank you David. I had seen pictures from tailors in Napoli in Alden´s entry about "Misshaped lapels", but the high notch is only for SB jackets. Even Mr. de Sica wearing his Neapolitan DB suit has a sensible notch level.

I thought it worthwhile posting an image of one of my own, where the notch sits a shade lower, and almost horizontally. I like the wider overlap, despite having quite a bit of width through the middle myself. I know some would think it unflattering for a more rotund frame like my own, but for some reason it just looks more flattering to my eye.

The cloth is Harrisons Grand Cru, by the by.



desu

ethandesu wrote: I know some would think it unflattering for a more rotund frame like my own, but for some reason it just looks more flattering to my eye.
desu

Dear Ethandesu: if you really have "a more rotund frame" as you said, then your tailor is doing a very good job making us believe otherwise. I liked your DB jacket despite the almost horizontal line of the notches. Overall it's not too wide. It looks just right.

Agree with hectorm - this looks very, very good.

I would have the pockets slightly slanted - but this is personal preference (and perhaps not even such a good idea here - I would discuss this carefully with the tailor, slanted pockets could also disturb the delicate balance we see here).

cheers, David

I would even say (also having a bit of girth around the middle) that the slightly wider overlap helps to balance out the overall proportions. A narrower overlap might emphasize the larger overall breadth. I very much like this suit.

davidhuh wrote: I would have the pockets slightly slanted.

Is just me? or aren't the pockets slightly slanted already?

Thanks for the nice feedback, all - I was quite happy with it myself.
The pockets are straight, not at all slanted, although my poor posture makes it seem like they slant downwards slightly. My only hesitation at first was the straight and slim breast welt pocket, but with the straight notchline on the lapel, I've grown to like it.
For reference in frame, I am 181cm tall, 100kgs and about a 39" waist. I would normally wear a 54 coat if it were ready to wear. Mr Alden has met me in person and can attest to my heavier build.

desu

Ethan - Looks very nice. The overall aesthetic is one that strikes me as being old school in such a way that it feels modern and fresh once again. I am often hesitant on straight breast pockets as well, but I agree that it works with this particular suit. Is this made by WW Chan? Wear it well and Happy Holidays!

Thanks for the kind words, Slew - It is indeed by Chan, fit by Patrick.
Thinking that I may just have this done as my dinner suit...

desu

Desu

Nice looking DB.

I would not say you look "heavy" just solid.

Cheers

Michael

Michael. Thank you for an informative and documented posting. Incidentally the suit is top notch and so is the fabric. Would you please let us know which fabric is it? Thank you in advance. Happy New Year.

Castiglione

Thank you. The cloth is the London Lounge "Mistral" mid-grey hopsack made a few years ago by our members.



Cheers

Michael