An elegant frame

A selection of London Lounge articles
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alden
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Sun Aug 25, 2013 9:50 am

Mr Classic himself, Jeremy Hackett illustrates how it is to be done:

Image

His wonderfully draped gray flannel suit is not the Mona Lisa, it is the frame of the Mona Lisa. :D And his refined selection of shirt color, collar style and tie provide a focus point that leads us to his face...to him, to the man himself. A perfect execution of masculine style.

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Luca
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Sun Aug 25, 2013 2:26 pm

A couple of fintersting aspects:
> Does the jacket length not look rather short (not excessively so, just shorter than usually shown around this forum)?
> The cut of the arms looks quite 'full' and the lapels are rather wide; not a slimming look.
pur_sang
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Mon Aug 26, 2013 4:08 am

i do like the brand's style, judging from the ad campaigns, but when you go into the store, the jackets are too short, the lapels are too slim.

and obviously, the craftsmanship of the suit are fairly general in my opinion.
alden
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Sat Aug 31, 2013 3:33 pm

A couple of intersting aspects:
> Does the jacket length not look rather short (not excessively so, just shorter than usually shown around this forum)?
> The cut of the arms looks quite 'full' and the lapels are rather wide; not a slimming look.
Hi Luca,

What I was hoping was for you to zoom out on this image and get away from any particulars. Simply take in the simplicity of the overall image. This is more of an exercise in dressing than in clothing.

I have seen Jeremy many times in person and generally I think, if anything, he wears his coats a fraction long for his height. In this case it is very hard to judge jacket length when we see only half a subject's body in the picture. If you Google Jeremy Hackett you will see quite a few pictures of him as he is a favorite of The Sartorialist. You can judge for yourself from these full shot pictures.

The cut of the arms are billowing because of the way Jeremy is standing. Beware of posture in photos.

I like wide lapels, not 70s style wide lapels, but moderately done. Jeremy is a small man and I think these lapels flatter him. They are full of character and give some depth to his frame. I think the RTW and fashion trend of the day or the moment is for very thin lapels. Beware the excesses of fashion, they are intended to ensnare and empty young mens' pocketbooks. When selecting the dimension of a jackets' key details, listen to your tailor. Making clothes is one situation in life when going down the middle of the road is a good idea. Your clothes will never be in fashion and they will never be out of fashion. :D

Cheers
Luca
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Sat Aug 31, 2013 6:01 pm

Good points. Speaking of the overall effect you mentioned, he certainly looks very comfortable and at ease in his kit.
They've got great ad campaigns, too.
alden
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Sat Aug 31, 2013 7:06 pm

he certainly looks very comfortable and at ease in his kit.
"The comfort concept is as follows: If you are not comfortable in your clothes, you will not look comfortable to others, and others will not feel comfortable around you. She wants to feel comfortable around you."

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andreyb
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Sat Aug 31, 2013 9:16 pm

pur_sang wrote:i do like the brand's style, judging from the ad campaigns, but when you go into the store, the jackets are too short, the lapels are too slim.

and obviously, the craftsmanship of the suit are fairly general in my opinion.
It's not a secret that Mr Hackett wears bespoke clothes. Terry Haste used to be his tailor (back when he was at Hackett's Sloane Street shop).

Thus, what you find in Hackett the shop is not necessarily the same that Hackett the man wears.

BTW, one little thing: Mr Hackett has very sloping shoulders ("milk bottle" shape). But you hardly see this in the picture Mr Alden posted... little bespoke magic in action.

Andrey
pur_sang
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Mon Dec 09, 2013 10:27 am

andreyb,

Just by looking at what he wears, I know he does not wear his own branded clothes, which is a bit of a shame. I will love to buy the image he portrays. You say just go bespoke! The problem is I have done so, but sometimes it's not so easy to communicate that exact image of what I want, so if someone can imagine it, make it well and sell it off the rack will be much welcomed. Although lucky me, I have found a tailor that have made me beautiful clothes.

Aside: Same goes to Ralph Lauren, I like the clothes he wears, but you find the same old slim lapel stuff that every other shop has in his stores. For some reason or rather, everyone thinks slim lapel makes you thinner.

Cheers,
alden
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Mon Dec 09, 2013 1:58 pm

For some reason or rather, everyone thinks slim lapel makes you thinner.
The only thing known to man that makes you look thinner is being thinner. End of argument. I know because I just spent four months sweating off a few extra kilos of accumulated foie gras. Diet and exercise mixed with tens times that of iron clad will.

Cheers
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