The London Lounge

I have been having bespoke suits made now for 15 years and have almost a full range of formalities, mostly lounge suits, sports coats, but also morning tails and 'stroller' (for the masons), and DJ, I occasionally attend white tie events and have been wearing an ex-hire suit I picked up at university, which isn't particularly attractive, thus have been considering having one made for years. It is however a lot of money for a very occasional wear and I'd rather spend the money on other tailoring.

Then I happened upon a seemingly unworn antique tail coat (I was told 1940s by the seller). It fits perfectly to the torso, has beautiful quilting, see photograph, and ribbed silk. However the tails are very long, certainly much longer than today's average, reaching the upper calf. On the basis that I'm over 6 foot, I presume it was made this way. How long is too long for tails today? I have worn brown trousers to more easily show the length in contrast:

Len Logsdail will be your best source, but until then, I believe that tails should go to the break behind your knee. Presumably, tails can be shortened, much as any other kind of hem can be raised.

Concordia wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 07, 2022 9:15 am

Len Logsdail will be your best source, but until then, I believe that tails should go to the break behind your knee. Presumably, tails can be shortened, much as any other kind of hem can be raised.

Thanks for the reply, yes this is the current recommended length, and has been for the past half century, but all tail coats have gone through various fashions of shorter and longer through the past 200 years, be it frock coats, morning/cut aways, or evening tails. For example I have seen all three in pictures from the late Victorian era at mid thigh, whilst in other eras are mid calf.

I believe the generally accepted length is "top of the calf", which could also mean back of the knee. I don't think an inch or two either way is going to make or break the look.