The London Lounge

In the great, and largely settled debate regarding the propriety of buttoning ones’ sleeve buttons, the following historical evidence, albeit in uniforms, presents itself.

The larger question is why? The button looks not only missing or unbuttoned, but it is deliberately set off to be impossible to button even if the buttonhole were a working buttonhole, which it doesn't appear to be.


https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File ... kko_05.jpg
Emperor Nicholas II's coronation uniform (1896).


https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File ... _photo.jpg
Emperor Alexander II of Russia (c. 1878 or 1881).

Note that this detail was not seen on the 1801 coronation uniform.
http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/m ... 720s-1917/

Great execution of the embroidery.

Thank you for sharing these observations and photos!
It is very interesting to see that this is not something from the second half of the 20th century, but has much older roots!

It’s cheesy. Please don’t do it.

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Napo ... ject_2.jpg
The Emperor Napoleon in His Study at the Tuileries.

Other kinds of buttons were made like this on dress uniforms. Even in London.

Some civilian frock coats with false turnback sleeves have a button above the cuff where it can never button. If memory serves, none other than NJS recommended this style if having turnback cuffs.

Here on an Officer's short-tailed coatee, 8th (King's Royal Irish) Light Dragoons, 1815 (c):
https://collection.nam.ac.uk/images/960 ... /78260.jpg
https://collection.nam.ac.uk/detail.php ... 3-09-286-1

Into the same category of unbuttoned buttons we can add the style of leaving the last, or first, depending on your point of view, waistcoat button unbuttoned. A style considered correct until today.

Here, a Royal Naval uniform: pattern 1795-1812 has pocket buttons that can never be buttoned, as they don't reach the buttonholes.

https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collectio ... 71257.html

For full unbuttoned sleeves, allow me to present Sir Henry Morgan (Welsh: Harri Morgan, c. 1635 – 25 August 1688) “Welsh privateer, landowner, slaveholder and, later, Lieutenant Governor of Jamaica... His life was romanticised after his death and he became the inspiration for pirate-themed works of fiction across a range of genres.” A brand of rum is named after the Captain, which bears the slogan "To Life, Love and Loot." on the label.


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Capt ... ,_1671.jpg

Completely unbuttoned.

Undress Windsor uniform, as worn by Prince Augustus Frederick (a son of King George III) in 1798

NS

I don’t think European aristocrats of the last or any century were much interested in “new wealth signaling” like our middle class poseurs of today. The open buttonhole is not repulsive per se, or not nearly as much as the intent of showing other blokes the high price tag of bespoke clothing, gold Rolex, 900 hp supercar etc. If anything, real Euro cats are more keen to hide their wealth these days lest it draw the attention of certain ravenous governmental agencies.

Speaking of blokes and conspicuous consumption, I am always stunned on my visits of America to see so many 900 hp supercars lining the streets in a world where they will be driven 40 mph most of their adult lives. It’s another hilariously futile display by the terminally insecure that eliminates any hope of Style (our subject here.)

Cheers

Perhaps it is a sign that Europe's "ravenous governmental agencies" have the right idea.

alden wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 02, 2020 4:06 pm

I don’t think European aristocrats of the last or any century were much interested in “new wealth signaling” like our middle class poseurs of today.

Not so sure - in the 19th Century, this is what you knock up for your country cottage to hide the fact that your granddad was a welsh sheep farmer-turned nut & bolt manufacturer! (Freud would've had a field day explaining the size of that tower)



But I suppose in this case it was trying to look like your family were landed gentry who arrived with William the Conqueror.

All wealth started somewhere and was often grabbed rather than hard won, but there we are. Nobody likes a show off though.

arch wrote: ↑

Tue Mar 03, 2020 2:51 pm

All wealth started somewhere and was often grabbed rather than hard won, but there we are. Nobody likes a show off though.

+1

Faux and unbuttonable buttons on a justacorps pocket.

https://thegentlemanscloset.tumblr.com/ ... -suits-but