Wed Nov 25, 2020 7:47 pm
What a great photo, Andy. Your observations are definitely interesting, And your comments touch upon one of those moments in history steeped in mystery and magic. In the 1950’s Bangkok was in transition, on the verge of embracing western modernization in full force. Yet ancient customs and ways of living were very much in play.
Going to market could manifest as hopping in a low-slung canoe (known as a sampan) and bobbing around the canals as you made your selection of fresh fruits such as pomelo, mangosteens and the ever-controversial durian. Streets were packed with three wheeled scooters known as “samlors” belching clouds of exhaust smoke, while water buffalo would meander down the middle of side streets as vendors trotted along with their snacks and wares bouncing rhythmically from a pole resting across their shoulder.
Add to this the sudden influx of “farang” or foreigners, with their strange customs and manner of dress, and you had a fascinating, exotic mix of cultural clash. The Thais and the “farang” made gracious attempts to embrace and understand very different ways of dressing, eating, and socializing.
As a young lad it was my good fortune to have witnessed this era before it faded when my family lived in Bangkok during the 1950’s and early 60’s. This was before commercial air travel came into full swing, and most foreigners were either diplomats, missionaries, businessmen or military. It was an open secret that those who had strange job titles were usually clandestine operatives, or “spooks” as we called them. I well remember keenly observing as my father was fitted for several linen suits and a dinner jacket with a tailor in Hong Kong early on during our time in the orient.
My impression is that wool suits were an early false start for many new comers, as well as being the attire for a small group of old schoolers. Although it could on occasion reach rather cool temps during the rainy season, it was warm, to say the least for most of the year. It seemed people opted for linen or cotton suits, while more casual dress, akin to Aloha attire, was considered acceptable for most occasions. Thai silk was making a big splash, to a significant extent thanks to Jim Thompson’s entrepreneurial efforts and many opted for beautiful shirts akin to the “guayabera” style.
There was a graceful element of formality, and it was expected that you would host one or two gala outdoor parties each year for colleagues and friends. These were usually extravagant affairs with sumptuous buffets and decor. Torches and lanterns would illuminate the meticulously kept gardens. Women would wear dresses of shimmering Thai silk that pullulated with a fantastic array of saffron, vermillion, cobalt, and emerald green. I remember climbing up into my secret perch in a mango tree to peer down upon the crowd while listening to the traditional Thai music, mixed with occasional renditions of the latest pop tunes. The air was thick with the perfume of gardenias and incense.
I trust you are well in the times we now face. Wishing you and all our fellow Loungers a safe albeit abbreviated Thanksgiving holiday.
-James