The London Lounge

I am interested in a dark green tattersall checked jacket. I want it to have a finish and hand which is refined and more Urbe than Rus and with dressy muted colours. The closest I have seen, pattern wise, is in the Hardy Alsport selection, ( 2407-19oz ; 2416-19oz ; and 9937-17oz ).
My problem is that I have no experience of these cloths and need guidance. I don't want heavy thorn proof rough cloth, but something with a more luxury feel. Should I be looking at tweeds, or perhaps lambswool, Saxony or other city jacketing? What would be a good weight? What books should I be looking at? Any advice appreciated , as always.
Thanks, Rowly

I like the Allsport book, or what I know of it:
I have a 1984 jacket (reference unknown, might not even exist anymore) in green twill with a faint dark red (?) overcheck and some blue and other colours mixed in, a three piece SB suit in a Lovat green herringbone (actually more brown than green, but it depends on the light) from 1985 or so, and a three-piece SB suit (1991?) in a houndstooth similar to this (http://www.hfwltd.com/bobb.php?b=jgh&c=2&p=2#thumb) but more vivid (beige background and orange overcheck).
I have in the making a three piece SB in reference 2432 (black and white herringbone: http://www.hfwltd.com/bobb.php?b=jgh&c=2&p=4#thumb ).
Those cloths are all lovely, traditional, and will last forever (My first jacket is just acquiring its final ideal sagginess after all this time ). They are tough and, in the fullness of time, will mould to your body shape, especially after being in the rain a few times . I chose the last one because the colours (B & W) give a final effect of a discreet salt and pepper, suitable, I hope, for town wear, as I am, if anything, an urban animal.
I am not sure the current Allsport cloths, especially the newly introduced ones, are as good, or will last as long, as those.
That being said, I would not describe the cloths as “urban” or “luxury” or “refined”. They mostly have a dry hand. They definitely are “tweeds”; I would not describe them as “city jacketings”.
You need to see them “in person” to decide.
I am not sure I have answered your question, except negatively, but I hope this helps.
Frog in Suit

Frog in Suit,
Thanks for the detailed reply, which is very helpful. I am currently having my second country suit made from the Worsted Alsport range and have decided on another of the patterns for a sports jacket, having seen one made up in Savile Row just Friday past. I find it difficult to envisage the final product from swatches, so this is a great help to me. I have yet to have a suit like yours from the heavier alsport collection but that is definitely on my list. I'm keen to have a few suits for weekend and leisure wear that are individual and not just another business suit. I favour tweeds ( but at the refined end of the tweedy scale) and flannels. More whisky and cigar at the fireside...than dog and gun on the hillside, if you see what I mean.
I bet the grey herringbone will look great for this. Do these suits wear very warm, limiting them to outdoor use? Do you think a 3-piece of this tweed is better as a b3..or can b2 look good also? I might try one of the lighter 17oz cloths in the range for my jacket, to test the water. I know Old Henry feels that the new alsport is nowhere near the quality of the original....but I suppose we're lucky there is any left at all. Please let me know how your grey herringbone turns out...it sounds like a very exciting commission!, thanks again, Rowly