New Blue Woollen Flannel Blazer project

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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fabrics
Posts: 47
Joined: Tue Sep 27, 2005 5:10 pm
Location: Taipei
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Wed Dec 15, 2010 7:53 am

This is my latest project. Super 180s Woollen Flannel in Blue
3-2 button, notched, double vents,
buttons: brass buttons. So, this is a blazer!

What do you think of this jacket's armhole execution?


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ay329
Posts: 505
Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2007 3:54 pm
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Thu Dec 16, 2010 3:21 pm

Go all the way and make a vest and trouser...don't leave it orphaned :wink:
couch
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Thu Dec 16, 2010 6:00 pm

Have the final sleeve setting, lining, and pressing been done at this stage, or are the sleeves still basted on? Still a lot of basting thread visible, but the buttonholes and lapel pick stitching appear to be in (hard to be sure at this resolution) which suggests the jacket may be nearly finished.

From what I can tell in the mirror, the sleeve pitch looks good, and the sleeve head and rear sleeve seem clean but adequately full and not tight when the arm is down. When you raise your arms, the shoulders and collar seem to stay pretty quiet. All good. In the second picture, with arm raised, there's quite a bit of very tight creasing from bottom front of scye to just under the sleevehead. This may just be the nature of the cloth (you don't mention the weight, but I would guess a 180s cloth would be fairly thin); if the sleeve lining is not yet in place, it will probably help reduce the tightness of the creasing, as the jacket cloth will not grab the shirtsleeve so much. Do you feel any undue constriction around the upper arm when you move? If not, I wouldn't worry a bit. It looks like your tailor knows what he's doing. If you do feel constriction, I'm sure he will be able to advise on any needed adjustments. This armhole appears (could be an illusion) to be slightly lower/more egg-shaped than your blue Brisa, but the height looks fine to me--it might be a little cooler. As for its shape, and where the sleevehead fullness is fed, etc., it's pretty hard to judge from the pictures. Did you or your tailor make a deliberate change from the blue Brisa? If so, what and why?

On the whole, everything looks nicely judged to me.
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