The London Lounge

I recently received my first bespoke suit, in a mid-grey SW flannel. I love the look of the suit and I am overall very happy with it. The excitement I felt when I entered the tailor's to that last fitting was phenomenal.

Back at the office (I wear it as a work suit) I noticed that I feel the jacket to be a little tight over the back, particularly when I am slouching at my desk in front of the computer (I should improve my sitting position I know). And the feeling of tightness in the jacket grows throughout the day.

My question is therefore is this something that can be remedied? Can the tailor "let out" the jacket a little at the sides and the back? Or is all excess cloth usually cut away so that nothing can be done?

Thanks for any replies to my sartorial predicament!

A good tailor should leave a reasonable amount of extra material in the seam to allow for future "growth" or adjustment.

I remember feeling unfamiliar tightness in my first bespoke suit. I've since realized the feeling was that of a properly-sized suit....I was no longer swimming in my clothing!
That said, if the jacket is truly uncomfortable your tailor should be able to alter it to your satisfaction.

I would make sure to wear it a few times before making any changes. From my experience, it may just be that it needs to mold to your body a bit.

Your tailor most certainly left excess cloth inside {outlets}..The back center seam should not be let out from the top unless the back is recut.. Just 1/4 inch in the blades can make a difference but as Yale Cameron said above - you may just need to break it in.. How high are your armholes ? Deep armholes will pull everything when you move ..

Many thanks for your responses. I am glad to hear that I am not alone in having this experience (what a difference there is between a bespoke suit and RTW, the feel of the suit is so different).

Old Henry: My armholes are quite high (the highest I have ever had as I have only worn RTW suits previously). The collar does not move at all when I move my arms which was something quite new and exciting compared to my RTW suits. We did go for a slim siluette and the tailor took abit in on the sides at the final fitting. I'm glad to hear that this, should it be necessary, can be taken out again.

As you say I guess have to wear it a bit before I can decide whether to have it "let out".

A related question: Should one be able to sit comfortably with the jacket buttoned, or should this feel abit tight?

Thanks

If you can move around and the collar does not move then the coat is fine . If there is not enough room the collar will lift off. You should feel a well fitting coat just a bit . .... a bit "quick" is what I think they used to call it.. You will learn to love this this feeling. Have fun and order another.. Frank .

Thanks Old Henry. I do enjoy it and I definitely order another. I fear that I have been bitten by the bespoke bug, for which (I am sure LL members can attest) there is no cure!

The only cure is to order a tweed. 16oz and over.

When I got my first suit home, I thought it was a size too small ( in rtw terms ), and too short.
After a few wearings, ..... the canvas started to break in, ... it dropped down to the perfect length ... it is tight to slip on ... then it fits as comfortably as a jumper!
I now love it .. it has molded to my body to the point that I can almost recognise myself when looking at it hung up.
To wear it is a sensual delight, .. it makes me feel good.
I want more !
Give me more !
Good luck and enjoy !
Rowly.

Thanks for all your responses. I have worn the suit twice, and just put it on again this evening to see how it feels, and indeed it is getting more comfortable!

I will for sure order more, but I am not sure I am ready for tweed yet I need to focus on building up a decent work wardrobe first.

Any thoughts on what cloth I should go with for my second commission? I am thinking dark blue, and I need something that will not wear out too quickly (I only recently learned that woolen flannel, which is what my first suit is made of, wears out quickly). Are worsted more durable?

Thanks