Glorious Twelfth

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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Scot
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Sat Oct 30, 2010 12:20 pm

My tailor is having trouble getting a suit length from this P&H book. Apparently there is "trouble at t'mill". I hope this is not a sign of things to come. On the other hand maybe it is fate. I have an odd jacket from this bunch and, as a cloth, it doesn't impress me, though the patterns are nice. This was to be a lovat herringbone with a red/yellow overcheck. I may ditch the idea and select from another book. The most obvious alternative is, I suppose, the J G Hardy Worsted Allsport, but I hear the new book is not so great. Ideas for cloths of this type/weight would be appreciated.
old henry
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Sat Oct 30, 2010 1:55 pm

The new Alsport heavier tweed is a far cry from the old , but the Worsted Alsport book is as good as ever. FS
Simon A

Sat Oct 30, 2010 5:30 pm

If you are looking for a "country" pattern in a milled worsted of 13-14 oz, you could look at the Dugdale English Classics book. It has POW checks, houndstooth, herringbones and windowpanes. I have seen some suits made up from this book, and the hand and drape seem good. Well priced too. Perhaps one of the tailors could comment on what it is like to work with.
old henry
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Sat Oct 30, 2010 7:18 pm

Dugdale is a sturdy cloth and a pleasure to work with. Your tailor will thank you . F.S.
old henry
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Sun Oct 31, 2010 4:01 pm

Also , the Glenhunt book by Bateman Ogden is a sturdy ,strong ,pleasure to work with cloth ..
GSC
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Sun Oct 31, 2010 6:11 pm

Frank, you've written before about your preference for Lessers 13 0z. How do you compare it with the Dugdale 13/14 and the Bateman Ogden? Thanks GSC
S. Gillette
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Mon Nov 01, 2010 12:16 pm

old henry wrote:Also , the Glenhunt book by Bateman Ogden is a sturdy ,strong ,pleasure to work with cloth ..
Having two jackets from this book, I must say that it is truly underrated in the internet community. Strangely enough, many tailors I have spoken to or used do recommend it. Some of BO's other offerings are also worth a look.
old henry
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Mon Nov 01, 2010 7:55 pm

I agree whole heartedly with what S.Gillette has written. Any hand tailor will love working with Dugdale and Bateman Ogden cloths and you will enjoy them for quite a few years. Frank Shattuck..
Scot
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Mon Nov 01, 2010 8:24 pm

I have a suit from a Bateman Ogden mohair mix which is good stuff certainly. Thanks for all the other suggestions - very useful.
ismailalmurtadza
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Tue Nov 02, 2010 6:10 am

Henry and Members,I have a swatch from Porters and Harding and is also known as The Glorious Twelth a lightweight (11.oz).Are all we here are saying the same/related cloth,except for the heavier weight....just curious?
What is your opinion on the 11oz cloth,will it stand well(drape) for a trousers and a sport jacket?.An 11oz is tolerable in tropical Malaysia ,after all I'll be wearing them ,most of the time in an air condition room In fact,I was contemplating of getting a Gunclub for a SJ and a gray herringbone and a few plain weaves for the trousers.
Hope to something from you peolpe.

murtadza
Rowly
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Tue Nov 02, 2010 3:22 pm

Regards Country Jacketing, .... I have always used Bladen Supasax ( I think this is saxony finished lamb's wool? ) in my RTW wardrobe. I like the clean smooth hand and the rich patterns...and find the weight to be ideal. What bunches should I be looking at, and in what weights, in order to get the same or similar cloths, but for bespoke commissions? thanks, Rowly.
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