The London Lounge

Hello all! Although I have been reading posts on the London Lounge for some time, this is my first post (bear with me) so I would like to say thanks for the wealth of knowledge that this site has lent me over the past few months.

Returning to the topic, I have the opportunity of getting my first bespoke suit this weekend, and although I've got a very firm idea about what I'd like the suit to look like aesthetically, I would like a little feedback on what everyone thinks and some answers to the few questions that I have. I have just recently become interested in sartorial knowledge, so I'm not quite sure about the finer details of the suit. I wear suits year-round, and I am ultimately getting this bespoke suit to compliment my current collection. Since the suit is of course totally custom, I want to have it made in a more formal fashion that I could wear year round.

The suit is going to be a three-piece suit so I will start with the jacket. The jacket is going to be a two-button, single-breasted jacket. I'd like to have it in a black, pinstripe fabric. I don't know, however, exactly what kind of fabric to choose for the suit. I live in the southern United States, and where I live the summers are very hot and humid, and the winters fairly cold. I'd like a fabric that would be light enough to be relatively comfortable in the summer, but also fairly warm in the winter. Keep in mind that this will be a three-piece suit, so I will have the extra warmth of the waistcoat. I was planning on going with a wool, but I don't know what weight would be best, so if you could specify, that would be fantastic. In terms of the aesthetic, the coat will have peaked lapels with a boutonnière notch, the standard chest and waist pockets, a ticket pocket, and side vents. I've always preferred the sleek look of jetted pockets over flap pockets, so I was planning on going with them instead of the usual flap pockets. The pants are going to be fairly straightforward with two pleats, a single back pocket, straight pockets on the sides, and no cuffs. The only question I have about them is the same one about fabric choice.

Finally, we come to the waistcoat. I plan on making the waistcoat double-breasted with four buttons in the usual 2x2 arrangement. I'd like it rather low cut so that more of the shirt and tie will be visible. I've never owned a three-piece suit, though, so I have several questions about the waistcoat. First of all, I don't know whether or not to have a lapel on the waistcoat, and if I should, what kind. A peaked lapel to match the jacket? A notched lapel for contrast? There are definitely many occasions where removal of the jacket is appropriate, so I would like for the waistcoat to certainly look professional and appropriate without the jacket. I plan on getting a fob hole cut into the waistcoat and of course two waist pockets. I am aware that some waistcoats come with a chest pocket, but how appropriate is this? Does it really serve any purpose? Once again, I don't know what kind of fabric (although I assume it will be the same as the jacket and pants).

Thank you all for bearing with me through that long and drawn out description. I look forward to reading your responses!

RAK

Dear RAK,

Welcome to the Lounge (the sunlit side)! And do enjoy the making of your first bespoke suit.
Bespoke tailoring allows you to design your clothes for precise purposes and times of the year, so I'd say the year-round approach is not the best idea. Besides, there is no cloth that really keeps warm in winter and cool in summer - you need to make a choice. You could make a three-season suit (autumn - winter - spring) and think of somehting else for the summer.
I'd suggest replacing black with dark gray. Possibly the pinstripe with a chalkstripe, too - but that also depends on the type of cloth you'll choose (worsted, flannel etc.).
It's true that an extra layer (the waistcoat) keeps you warm almost irrespective of cloth weight, but don't rely on it to choose a superlight cloth: it's like wearing sandals with wool socks in winter. Choose a sensible weight (12+ oz). It won't wear noticebly warmer than a super 9 oz, because it will breathe better (so you won't sweat) and it will hang better, too.
I'm not sure about the ticket pocket on the coat of a business (formal) suit worn with a DB waistcoat. Jetted and flapped pockets - you can always tuck the flaps in if you wish.
How long the waistcoat is should be a function of your body's proportions (torso / legs) and how high the waist of your trousers is (the waistcoat should end a little below the bottom of your waistband). If it's too low, you risk the look of a rental tuxedo, so if you like the idea of a DB waistcoat, go high with the waist of your trousers and adjust the length of your waistcoat accordingly (your tailor will surely be able to advise you). The waistcoat may take peak lapels or a shawl (it needn't have a collar and, if you go for a shawl, the lapels may be sewn into the shoulder seam, so the coat's collar will sit better against the back of your neck). You may ask for the chest pocket(s), too, if you think you'll keep anything in them.
Finally, here is some inspiration for the suit of your dreams:

(note that only an equally substantial cloth will drape and hang so nicely)

Here is also the three button alternative to your design, as posted by Daedalus in the Great Photos section:

(open it in a separate window if it isn't automatically downsized to fit the screen)

Thanks Costi. That's exactly the kind of feedback I was looking for. I think I'll go with your suggestion on the dark gray instead of black, and I'll see whether the fabric the tailor offers looks better with the chalkstripe. The first picture you posted was pretty much exactly what I was looking for, and I'll take it with me when I go to the tailor this weekend. Thanks again.