The London Lounge

Greetings -
For several weeks I have enjoyed reading this form and researching in advance of my first bespoke Savile Row suit. I believe I have learned the basics of the different house styles and the differences between AS soft tailoring and the more military cuts.

My question is what style best compliments my rather "out of shape" body? I'm 5'11" and tip the scales at 240 lbs. I'd don't have a big pot belly - rather I'm thick thru the torso and have a round face.

One strategy I have used to see whether a style would work for me, is to look at the tailor's own body shape - I'm certainly more like Steven Hitchcock than Edwin DuBoise or Thomas Mahon yet all profess a"soft"/AS house style.

So, should I go to Steven Hitchcock, Huntsman, Davies, Poole, Steed?????

Any suggestions or pictures would be very much appreciated.

Cheers, st.tully

I believe this is partly a question of taste in silhouettes, and of how your bulk is distributed. I'm sure any of the firms you list can cut a body that flatters you. Probably at least a little front drape will help avoid any risk of an overstuffed look, even at the more military tailors. I'd hypothesize that the shoulder treatment will be the area where the greatest differences in effect will manifest.

Some tailors, especially those to tend toward a military cut, will like "strong" shoulders--that is, ones that are built up with padding to a more horizontal or even concave (pagoda) line--on a bulky or softer figure to enhance the impression of greater power and muscularity. Sleevehead treatment can vary (roped or natural), but a built-up shoulder tends to make a squarer angle from shoulder line to sleeve. This approach can be quite effective if well done. It often, however, has a very different (and better) effect when the wearer is standing still than when he is in motion. Heavily constructed shoulders inevitably move stiffly when the arms are moved, and tend to lift when the arms are raised--a less dramatic version of American football players' shoulder pads.

At the other extreme is a very lightly constructed shoulder with little or no padding. Again, sleevehead treatment can vary, but especially if a "natural" or softly rounded sleevehead treatment is used, this approach yields a much more rounded transition from shoulder line to sleeve. Depending on your taste, it can seem to exaggerate, or at least not compensate for, a softer or bulky figure, especially at rest. On the other hand, it will move much more naturally with the wearer and thus not call attention to its artifice.

The decision about which of these two poles you prefer, along with how much fullness you like in the body, is a personal one, and you should try on some jackets of both types if necessary to determine your inclination. I'd suggest visiting several of the firms if possible (either on visits if you're in the States or on the Row) to help with this process. Even on visits, most of the firms you mention would probably have a jacket or two with them that is close enough to your size to help you judge what kind of look you respond best to.

There is a wide middle ground between these two extremes, and you can choose how far in each direction you care to go. A military-cut like firm like Huntsman or Dege might go from the midpoint to the "strong" extreme, and a "soft" tailoring firm might go from the midpoint (or perhaps slightly less in the case of A&S) to the rounded extreme. I'd say Poole tends to start around the middle and work toward either extreme as the client's figuration and preferences suggest.

I would guess that Angus Cundy, elder guv'nor at Poole, might be near the height and weight you give, so you can see his choices:







John Hitchcock at A&S looks to be a little trimmer, but still gives an idea of a typical A&S shoulder treatment:





Other members will no doubt have additional thoughts for you. Good luck, and keep us posted.

This is excellent insight. Thank you. Perhaps we could delve into any other sartorial devices for making the pudgy svelte. I suppose if the Duke's tailors figured a way to make a 5'2" fellow appear taller there is hope fore me looking thinner.

I am used to a softer shoulder, a la Oxxford. So I was thinking Steven Hitchcock could be a good option as his shoulder treatment is soft yet has roping to give substance - I am thinking the roped shoulders will balance out my round face. Has anyone recently used Steven Hitchcock and cares to give a review?

What else should a slightly overweight, round faced fellow keep in mind, other than a diet? Perhaps a SB peaked lapel would be a good counter to the round face? Higher or lower button stance?

Also, regarding choice of tailor, I'm hoping to find one who will give some thought to these questions rather than just agreeing with whatever I suggest. I know much is a matter of personal taste - BUT often what we see in our mind's eye as looking good is not what others think looks good on us. I may think of myself as Cary Grant but in reality, I'm a later model George V.

I use Steven on a fairly regular basis although not exclusively. I use him for fairly classical business attire that will fit in anywhere. I am similar in height to you but closer to 185lbs. Shoulders are as you describe and he will take the time to get a good fit around the armholes which for me is what makes all the difference in bespoke.

He will likely cut fairly wide shoulders for your which will help. He naturally cuts a fairly wide torso and then brings it in as you like. I am always having to push him to tighten up the torso and open up the front quarters. It is all relative, but I live and work more on the continent than the US or UK. I don't want Tom Ford tightness but I do like a slightly trimmer look than Steven would do on his own. For the other French/Italian tailor that I use it is the opposite story - have to keep him from making the suit fit like a Speedo.

For your situation depends a bit on where you work and what you want but I suggest you let him do a waistcoat, peaked lapels, standard three button rolled to two. Trousers cut for braces. Without comment he would surely cut a fairly wide trouser that would suit you well. I would discuss with him button placement. You may want to go a bit lower than he naturally would to open up the chest a bit.

Overall no doubt that Steven can cut for you just fine - take the time for fittings on the first one.