Basic wardrobe and shoes

[Edward Bainbridge]

I'll have to renew my stock of clothes; some of them are starting to be threadbare, others don't fit me anymore etc. Luckily, I do have some things left, but let's pretend I'm at zero. If I'll have two or three suits, possibly an overcoat made, what would you recommend?

I'm not engaged in business, I'm living in a medium-sized city (not up north), occasionally more formal, but mostly not, and sometimes in the country, though not taking part in country sports. If I'm lucky, Scotland in late summer or early autumn.

How many pairs of shoes? Frankly, I'm wearing always the same. At least they can breathe when I'm at home, which is a lot, there I wear slippers. Some people seem to have a pair for each day of the month, others just change between two from day to day.

While I'm at it: I saw Lobb's Philip II - they look wonderful. Is there a more affordable alternative? As these aren't bespoke, are they really better to wear, or is it the looks and the name that makes the price?

[culverwood]

You say you are not engaged in business. I take it from this that you will not need suits for work so perhaps 1 "Sunday best" suit for functions and evenings in a dark blue cloth would be enough and you could then buy more sports coats, blazers and trousers which you would wear more often. You will need black tie and perhaps also a morning coat and trousers too.

Shoes minimum for me (in your position):
2 black - 1 cap-toe oxford, 1 loafer (JL Ashley type)
5 brown - 1 brogue, 1 chuka, 1 loafer, 1 derby, 1 oxford (you choose the type)

I find it hard to pay very high prices for shoes that are not bespoke and would suggest a C&J alternative to the Philip II. The fit of RTW shoes depends on whether the last suits you and you may find another manufacturer has a last which works out better for you.

[storeynicholas]

I second Culverwood in finding an alternative to the 'John Lobb' RTW; they have no connection, beyond exploitation of the name, with JL and are not, to my mind, in the same league as many other RTW, such as Edward Green and C&J and Tricker's

[Edward Bainbridge]

Thanks!

Suits: That more or less is what I had considered, too. I don't much like the constant downgrading to more and more casual clothing - for myself, that is; I'm not a militant and if I see somebody in casual clothes, it doesn't bother me, of course. So I tend to wear suits or at least coats outside of business, houses of worship and smart "events". Black tie - of course, in fact I'll have to take my old one to an alteration tailor finally. Morning coat - never owned one, one really doesn't need them that often, does one? I'll keep my eyes open in charity shops maybe, but it's not top priority.

Shoes: So seven pairs, seems a reasonable number, about what I thought, too, or feared. I don't really like loafers, but that's a minor point. I'll probably start with a pair of brown and black oxfords, or black oxfords and brown derbys, and something sturdier for the country. Concerning the fit, I'll certainly try them on and wouldn't order any online. I'm not keen on the John Lobb name as such, though I wouldn't mind it - I just saw those shoes and very much liked the look. The price of £1000 isn't just over my limit, I also would go for bespoke shoes if I spent that much probably.