Choosing a tailor in London
Posted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 9:23 pm
Gentlemen,
I am currently in the process of exploring my options, and choosing a tailor in London. I thought I would post here, in the hopes of getting some advice and opinions.
I'm hoping to find a tailor that I can build a long term relationship with. I can expect to be able to commission one to two suits per year from an off-row tailor. I say suits, but the reality is that I work in software, and most of the time, suits are not appropriate apparel for the office. Therefore, my commissions are more likely to lean towards odd jackets and trousers, although I certainly will require a suit or two at some point. I should mention also, that I'm 39 years old, and am portly.
This will not be my first experience with custom clothing. I have twice had shirts made in Hong Kong, as well as two suits, also in Hong Kong. I have also had shirts, trousers, and a disaster of a blazer (the less said about, the better), in India. My experiences with these commissions has been mixed. The first time I had shirts made (through Raja Fashions), the sample shirt was fine, but the other shirts were only ok. The second time I had shirts made (through Jantzen) was significantly better, and I was very pleased with the shirts. I should note though, that I was in Hong Kong at the time, and made my order in the shop itself. When I collected the shirts, I also commissioned 2 suits from Jantzen. I am reasonably pleased with the cut and fit of the suits, but the fabrics I was steered towards (knowing little about fabric at the time), have not worn well. One suit is unwearable now, as the trousers tore, and I'm unlikely to get more than another year or two out of the other. My experience in India was likewise mixed. The blazer was a disaster, 2 pairs of trousers (in Indian linen) are wonderful, the other 2 pairs (in a heavy cotton twill) were merely acceptable. Apparently, even though I had asked that all the trousers be cut the same way (with only a minor change to the fastenings), the shop owner had used a different trousers-maker for the cotton trousers than he had for the linen, and the fabrics had been cut to different patterns. Oh well. They've all been learning experiences, although none of them have been "true bespoke" (with the possible exception of the Jantzen shirts). I now feel that I'm ready to step up to another level.
When I started speaking to tailors, my plan was to commission an odd jacket (or possibly a suit) in linen, to wear next summer. However, the lead time quoted thus far has been significantly less than I was expecting. Therefore I'm currently considering something more appropriate for colder weather.
So far, I have met and spoken to cutters at Sims and Macdonald, Connock and Lockie, and Chris Kerr. I'm planning on speaking to Graham Browne as well.
Sims and Macdonald are the cheapest of the three. When I asked whether they cut a pattern for each customer or used a stock pattern, the answer was "it depends on the customer", which didn't fill me with optimism. The coats that they showed me all looked well made, but there was clearly not much handwork. They also told me that most of their buttonholes were machine-stitched, but that they would do hand buttonholes "if the customer really wanted it". They also seemed uncomfortable with deviating too much from a standard style. They quoted approximately £1000 for a 2 piece suit in a fabric from the Harrisons of Edinburgh linen book, and they said that they typically did 2 fittings.
Connock and Lockie are the most expensive of the three. The elderly cutter that I spoke to explained the entire process to me, starting with sketching out a design, through to the multiple fittings. He made a point of explaining that he was comfortable cutting whatever I wished, and seemed particularly proud of a 3 piece suit in an edwardian style he had recently finished for a customer. The coats that they showed me (in various phases of construction) were beautiful, with extensive hand work. He also talked about action backs, unstructured jackets, and so forth, in addition to more typical cuts. He showed me the complete price list, which ranged from approximately £1400 to approximately £2400, depending on the fabric chosen. When I asked about the number of fittings he said, "well, for a first suit, typically at least 3, sometimes 4, occasionally 2, depending on how right we get it the first time." He also made it clear that no garment left his shop until he believed it to be perfect.
Chris Kerr is priced in between the two, and has a number of high-profile (and well dressed) clients. He made it clear that he was happy to make whatever I wanted, and when I asked about details such as action backs, lapel rolls, unstructured jackets etc., I was told that it wouldn't be a problem. He mentioned that he did a lot of work for film, and so was conversant with a wide range of styles and cuts. The coats that I was shown (in various stages of construction) were all finished to a very high standard, and the construction seemed to be quite good quality. There was quite a bit of hand work, including hand-padded lapels. However, there was less handwork than Connock and Lockie, and in particular, the shoulder seam and sleeve head were both machine done. I was quoted £1300 for a two-piece suit from the same fabric as at Sims and Macdonald, and a similar price for a coat in an 18 oz tweed with trousers in a 14 oz worsted flannel. I was told that there were typically 2 fittings.
I am currently leaning towards Connock and Lockie. I would be keen to hear from any Lounge members with experiences with them, or with Chris Kerr. I am also keen to hear any recommendations for other london tailors in a similar price bracket. I am planning to bespeak the pieces in the 2nd or 3rd week of August, as I'll be in the US next week.
Many thanks, gents!
-Brendan
I am currently in the process of exploring my options, and choosing a tailor in London. I thought I would post here, in the hopes of getting some advice and opinions.
I'm hoping to find a tailor that I can build a long term relationship with. I can expect to be able to commission one to two suits per year from an off-row tailor. I say suits, but the reality is that I work in software, and most of the time, suits are not appropriate apparel for the office. Therefore, my commissions are more likely to lean towards odd jackets and trousers, although I certainly will require a suit or two at some point. I should mention also, that I'm 39 years old, and am portly.
This will not be my first experience with custom clothing. I have twice had shirts made in Hong Kong, as well as two suits, also in Hong Kong. I have also had shirts, trousers, and a disaster of a blazer (the less said about, the better), in India. My experiences with these commissions has been mixed. The first time I had shirts made (through Raja Fashions), the sample shirt was fine, but the other shirts were only ok. The second time I had shirts made (through Jantzen) was significantly better, and I was very pleased with the shirts. I should note though, that I was in Hong Kong at the time, and made my order in the shop itself. When I collected the shirts, I also commissioned 2 suits from Jantzen. I am reasonably pleased with the cut and fit of the suits, but the fabrics I was steered towards (knowing little about fabric at the time), have not worn well. One suit is unwearable now, as the trousers tore, and I'm unlikely to get more than another year or two out of the other. My experience in India was likewise mixed. The blazer was a disaster, 2 pairs of trousers (in Indian linen) are wonderful, the other 2 pairs (in a heavy cotton twill) were merely acceptable. Apparently, even though I had asked that all the trousers be cut the same way (with only a minor change to the fastenings), the shop owner had used a different trousers-maker for the cotton trousers than he had for the linen, and the fabrics had been cut to different patterns. Oh well. They've all been learning experiences, although none of them have been "true bespoke" (with the possible exception of the Jantzen shirts). I now feel that I'm ready to step up to another level.
When I started speaking to tailors, my plan was to commission an odd jacket (or possibly a suit) in linen, to wear next summer. However, the lead time quoted thus far has been significantly less than I was expecting. Therefore I'm currently considering something more appropriate for colder weather.
So far, I have met and spoken to cutters at Sims and Macdonald, Connock and Lockie, and Chris Kerr. I'm planning on speaking to Graham Browne as well.
Sims and Macdonald are the cheapest of the three. When I asked whether they cut a pattern for each customer or used a stock pattern, the answer was "it depends on the customer", which didn't fill me with optimism. The coats that they showed me all looked well made, but there was clearly not much handwork. They also told me that most of their buttonholes were machine-stitched, but that they would do hand buttonholes "if the customer really wanted it". They also seemed uncomfortable with deviating too much from a standard style. They quoted approximately £1000 for a 2 piece suit in a fabric from the Harrisons of Edinburgh linen book, and they said that they typically did 2 fittings.
Connock and Lockie are the most expensive of the three. The elderly cutter that I spoke to explained the entire process to me, starting with sketching out a design, through to the multiple fittings. He made a point of explaining that he was comfortable cutting whatever I wished, and seemed particularly proud of a 3 piece suit in an edwardian style he had recently finished for a customer. The coats that they showed me (in various phases of construction) were beautiful, with extensive hand work. He also talked about action backs, unstructured jackets, and so forth, in addition to more typical cuts. He showed me the complete price list, which ranged from approximately £1400 to approximately £2400, depending on the fabric chosen. When I asked about the number of fittings he said, "well, for a first suit, typically at least 3, sometimes 4, occasionally 2, depending on how right we get it the first time." He also made it clear that no garment left his shop until he believed it to be perfect.
Chris Kerr is priced in between the two, and has a number of high-profile (and well dressed) clients. He made it clear that he was happy to make whatever I wanted, and when I asked about details such as action backs, lapel rolls, unstructured jackets etc., I was told that it wouldn't be a problem. He mentioned that he did a lot of work for film, and so was conversant with a wide range of styles and cuts. The coats that I was shown (in various stages of construction) were all finished to a very high standard, and the construction seemed to be quite good quality. There was quite a bit of hand work, including hand-padded lapels. However, there was less handwork than Connock and Lockie, and in particular, the shoulder seam and sleeve head were both machine done. I was quoted £1300 for a two-piece suit from the same fabric as at Sims and Macdonald, and a similar price for a coat in an 18 oz tweed with trousers in a 14 oz worsted flannel. I was told that there were typically 2 fittings.
I am currently leaning towards Connock and Lockie. I would be keen to hear from any Lounge members with experiences with them, or with Chris Kerr. I am also keen to hear any recommendations for other london tailors in a similar price bracket. I am planning to bespeak the pieces in the 2nd or 3rd week of August, as I'll be in the US next week.
Many thanks, gents!
-Brendan