The London Lounge

Hi, Is a 1/2'' stripe too narrow for a double breasted suit? Are there too many repeats in the pattern? I found a grey double pin in Lessers 11/12 oz book, which reminded me of a similar one I saw in Anderson and Shep's window about six months ago. I also saw a youtube clip of Simon Cundy wearing what resembles a grey 1/2'' rope stripe from Lesser's 13oz book. I may be wrong, of course, ... but it made me wonder is there an ideal stripe width for DB?.... In SB, I find a 5/8'' stripe to be a nice proportion.Thanks for any opinions, Rowly.

Rowly, I find that stripe width between I/2 and 1 inch works very well for DBs. Anything wider and I feel like its a "chicago stripe" and I've never been a fan of tight stripes - pin, chalk or otherwise. If I were looking, I'd focus on the 5/8-3/4 inch range (between the stripes).

DDM

Rowly:

If you're keen on matching the stripes along the lapels of your coat with their counterparts on the collar,
a chalk or rope stripe with 5/8-inch spacing is fairly easy to achieve and looks best on a single-breasted
suit. On a double-breasted suit, 5/8-inch spacing can appear a bit busy.

On the other hand, a double-breasted suit looks better with a wider-spaced stripe which can range from
3/4-inch to 1 1/4-inch spacing. The wider the spacing, the less likely it is to match the stripes on the
lapels and collar. Ideally, you want some of each style in different cloths in your wardrobe.

By the way, wider stripes were more prevalent in the 1930s and often associated with well-dressed gangsters. Why? Because mobsters had oodles of money and could afford tailors, while the average working stiff had next to nothing during the Depression.

JMB

Rowly

Your post have framed a similar question that I thought about recently. I was considering getting Anderson's triple pin grey worsted made up as a single breasted suit but decided that the width between the pins (around 1 1/8 inch?) were too generous for (IMHO) the trimmer style of a single breasted coat. I know exactly the Lesser's 11-12oz double pin cloth you are referring to (# 30882); I like it very much but thought it would make up nicely as a single breasted suit rather than a double breasted coat for the same reason that Jordan Marc articulated in his post. If you are interested in looking at other charcoal double pin cloths, take a glance at Dugdale's Classics 13-14oz book # 9419. I seem to remember the pins being more widely spaced and they are solid lines as opposed to being broken pins as in Lesser's case. Or the Thomas Fisher super 100 book containing a 11oz charcoal triple broken pinstripe # F1831 (1'' spacing).

- C

"Bankers' stripes" = wide chalkstripes in the UK - JMB - aren't stiffs, traditionally, rather hard pushed to work and catered for in concrete in Chicago? Pattered to suit, maybe...
NJS

Nicholas:

Oh, there's a cryptic response! I used the term 'working stiff' not to denegrate but as a 1930s metaphor for gangsters with deep pockets who could afford tailors versus the average man who could barely make ends meet during the height of the Depression. Further, if 'concrete in Chicago' is a reference to getting rid of someone by fitting him with a pair of concrete boots before dropping him in the river, that's more movie mythology than reality. Chicagoans are proud of their lakefront and rivers. Alleys and railyards were more
apt to be the killing grounds.

JMB

DD MacDonald wrote:If I were looking, I'd focus on the 5/8-3/4 inch range (between the stripes).

This is usually my feeling also , however, I really liked these cloths ( Lesser's 30882, and 13oz 29720)... I thought they were quite striking and might look good as db. I agree about not going too wide but wasn't sure about going narrower. I certaintly don't want to talk myself into another misfire. On the wide side, ... there is a lovely rich sporty blue flannel by Harrisons that I admire, and although probably intended for a very large chest.. I am tempted to have it in a sb.., as a jazzy fun suit..( Harrison 39190 ) ... How frustrating it is to find the ideal cloth, but the stripe to be on the wide side? Maybe I should, '' take a walk on the wide side " and broaden my perspective and not be too narrow with my options? .... thanks for all advice, which is helpful as always.... Rowly.

I wonder to what degree the sharpness and contrast of the stripe might affect how the widths play. I suspect a very subtle chalk stripe might be easier to wear successfully at a wider spacing than a crisper and higher-contrast pattern would. You might experiment with this if you have a chance to look at bolts; see what you think.

For those who are tall and slender a broad spacing seems best to my eye. Perhaps 7/8 " to 1 1/8 " would be ideal.

There is no "right" answer to this question. I have some DB's that are fine and close pinstripes and others that have wide chalks that are over 1 1/2" apart.

We're I to give guidance, I'd say that finer close stripes are more for business and wide chalks are more for fun.

Rowly wrote:

DD MacDonald wrote:If I were looking, I'd focus on the 5/8-3/4 inch range (between the stripes).

This is usually my feeling also , however, I really liked these cloths ( Lesser's 30882, and 13oz 29720)... I thought they were quite striking and might look good as db. I agree about not going too wide but wasn't sure about going narrower. I certaintly don't want to talk myself into another misfire. On the wide side, ... there is a lovely rich sporty blue flannel by Harrisons that I admire, and although probably intended for a very large chest.. I am tempted to have it in a sb.., as a jazzy fun suit..( Harrison 39190 ) ... How frustrating it is to find the ideal cloth, but the stripe to be on the wide side? Maybe I should, '' take a walk on the wide side " and broaden my perspective and not be too narrow with my options? .... thanks for all advice, which is helpful as always.... Rowly.

Rowly, err on the side of wider rather than narrower. I don't know the Harrison cloth, but have some fun. DDM

Thanks again for all the advice, Rowly

I saw a DB made from the LL Reverse stripe recently and it was a cracker. Do we have any pictures to post of that one?

Michael

yachtie wrote:We're I to give guidance, I'd say that finer close stripes are more for business and wide chalks are more for fun.

I agree. Hence, I wore all of these for business (including court appearances):

Excellent, Old Dog, especially the first two!