The London Lounge

I've seen an advert for Kiton CI.PA. jackets. They have interesting checked linen shirting lining. I'm tempted to opt for a similar solution for a summer blazer I'm about to order. The cloth is a 10oz light navy hopsack-ish wool with a very open weave, almost see-through, so the lining would have to have a blue ground and not too much contrast. But my real concern is with practicality: I like the look of shirtings, and I think they will breathe more than even the thinnest conventional lining material (bemberg etc.), but will they wrinkle in ways that affect the fit of the coat? (Note that it is a very lightweight cloth.) I was thinking that maybe a linen/cotton blend would work better than all linen, even though Kiton uses the latter. Does anyone have any experience with this sort of lining with lightweight jacketings?

Thanks in advance for your feedback.

I would be concerned with the lining catching on my clothing, a problem that may be exacerbated by a light outer shell fabric.

Radicaldog

You can buy cotton lining intended for coats from most trimmers, Weldons has them. I used one in my Polo coat and it is very warm. Cotton is actually warmer than you think and might not do for a summer coat plugging up the pores of a fresco. Unlined is the way to go.

Cheers

Michael

Thanks for all the replies. I think the cloth may be too see-through to go unlined (it's a very open weave). If cotton isn't breathable maybe I should go with a 100% linen shirting lining then, like Kiton did. Though I think their coats are half-lined. Any experience with linen linings?

Never heard of linen linings. Maybe linen and silk could work? Linen catches, creases and might be too heavy with respect to the outer cloth. You could use self-cloth facings in front and cotton Bemberg for the shoulder blades and sleeves.

radicaldog wrote:But my real concern is with practicality: I like the look of shirtings, and I think they will breathe more than even the thinnest conventional lining material (bemberg etc.), but will they wrinkle in ways that affect the fit of the coat? (Note that it is a very lightweight cloth.)

Many tailors recommend ermazine (viscose taffeta) for summer linings; are you including that as one of the "conventional" linings? It's light weight, more porous/breathable than bemberg or silk, slips well over shirts, and is less absorbent than cotton or linen (thus less likely to mat and ruck up when humid or moist). One Poole cutter remarked in passing that he thought it was also the most durable of the linings they use. That was news to me.

couch wrote: Many tailors recommend ermazine (viscose taffeta) for summer linings; are you including that as one of the "conventional" linings? It's light weight, more porous/breathable than bemberg or silk, slips well over shirts, and is less absorbent than cotton or linen (thus less likely to mat and ruck up when humid or moist). One Poole cutter remarked in passing that he thought it was also the most durable of the linings they use. That was news to me.

Actually, I need to ask my tailor. There is a kind of lining he refers to as piumetta (little feather) which seems different from the usual bemberg, and which he always recommends for lightweight stuff. Last year I had a half-lined linen suit made with this lining, and it does seem to have the characteristics you describe.