Harrison's Firefly fresco: opinions and experience?

[mafoofan]

There is plenty of commentary on Minnis Fresco, Smith Finmeresco, and H&S Crispaire, but almost none on Harrison's version of fresco, Firefly. I'm curious about it because they have some very interesting colors and patterns that don't seem to be available elsewhere.

Of particular interest, a very light grey (somewhat close to the light grey Brisa) and a petrol blue with stripes:





Thanks to Andrew Rogers for the photos!

Michael--any chance of doing a petrol blue Brisa like that in the future?

[dopey]

Mohair in the blend adds a sheen which you may or may not like, though the amount in the Firefly is much less than in the Cape Kid. I can't recall seeing any Firefly in person so I can't say how shiny it is. My own preference is that suits with a nice mohair sheen look great in the summer for the weekend and in the evening but don't look right during the business day. I would be careful with Firefly for hat reason - try to see how it will look in the light as it ripples.

As for the gray, I just ordered a suit in a very similar light gray from the Smith Finmeresco book only to have Smith say it was gone and send a swatch in a 9/10oz (or maybe lighter weight). It looked good to me and I went with that as I was more interested in the color, so, obviously, I like the shade. It will be in my evolving standard summer suit order - three roll two, dartless, hooked single vent, lapped seams with 1/4 inch stitching (machine) on the lapels.

[mafoofan]

Thanks dopey. I like your summer suit format--I would do something similar, but not quite so trad.

Is that 9/10 oz. swatch from Smith a Finmeresco? I was under the impression that all Finmeresco was heavier than that.

You're right that I don't want to be too shiny during the day, so I'll have to check it out in person. However, I have a whole bunch of ~15% mohair swatches in front of me from another maker that seem plenty matte for business wear.

[dopey]

Sorry if I was being vague. The lighter weight swatch I got was NOT from the Finmeresco book. Smith, or really their distributor, suggested it as a substitute.

[mafoofan]

Sorry if I was being vague. The lighter weight swatch I got was NOT from the Finmeresco book. Smith, or really their distributor, suggested it as a substitute.

Interesting. Is it still a fresco-like cloth, or something else, like a tropical?

On another note: since you are planning on doing double-stitching on your summer suits, how are you going to deal with striped cloths? The combination of striped cloth and double-stitching seems odd in my mind--but maybe I'm making too much of it. I can't remember the last time I saw an example.

[dopey]

Sorry if I was being vague. The lighter weight swatch I got was NOT from the Finmeresco book. Smith, or really their distributor, suggested it as a substitute.

Interesting. Is it still a fresco-like cloth, or something else, like a tropical?

On another note: since you are planning on doing double-stitching on your summer suits, how are you going to deal with striped cloths? The combination of striped cloth and double-stitching seems odd in my mind--but maybe I'm making too much of it. I can't remember the last time I saw an example.

It is a fresco, which looks a lot like the Minnis fresco when I compared them side by side.
As to your other question,

On another note: since you are planning on doing double-stitching on your summer suits, how are you going to deal with striped cloths? The combination of striped cloth and double-stitching seems odd in my mind--but maybe I'm making too much of it. I can't remember the last time I saw an example.

You are right. Striped cloth would look funny on the model I described, which was really derived from sportcoats. I use it for summer suits, not for all suits for summer. If I want a striped suit to wear in the summer, I order it like a regular suit, which I have done.

[alden]

Michael--any chance of doing a petrol blue Brisa like that in the future?

We certainly could do another run of the blue gray Brisa. It turned out very nicely and I have had quite a few requests for it. Right now I am waiting to receive the test of the light grey PoW Brisa in the N by NW shade (hopefully.)

I don't know the Firefly cloth. Smith's "Gilt Edge" book is lightweight and tightly woven tropical approaching a fresco weave. There are some nice colors in that book including the best summer blue going.

Smiths in addition to the Finimeresco also has a 12 ozs traditional fresco (made in UK) in blue and gray. That is maybe what they sent you Dopey. It makes up nicely.

Cheers

Michael

[mafoofan]

Thanks, Michael. I wonder why no one seems to have ever used Firefly.

[alden]

Thanks, Michael. I wonder why no one seems to have ever used Firefly.

I will post some feedback about this cloth later this week after I speak to a few people who may have used it.

In any case, since you have a sample of the cloth, roll it in your fingers...does it feel springy to you, does it bounce back and feel alive in your hand. Or does it just lay flat and not stir....we can learn to tell alot about a fabrics nature ourselves...Give it a try.

Cheers

Michael

[mafoofan]

Thanks, Michael. I wonder why no one seems to have ever used Firefly.

I will post some feedback about this cloth later this week after I speak to a few people who may have used it.

In any case, since you have a sample of the cloth, roll it in your fingers...does it feel springy to you, does it bounce back and feel alive in your hand. Or does it just lay flat and not stir....we can learn to tell alot about a fabrics nature ourselves...Give it a try.

Cheers

Michael

Unfortunately, no, I don't have a sample with me. Those images are from Andrew Rogers's online photo catalogue of Harrison's cloth. But I know what you mean about springiness and feeling alive.

[alden]

I will get a piece of the cloth this week and see what it is like.

Cheers

Michael

[alden]

Mafoofan

I had a chance to see the Firefly book yesterday. The cloth is pretty resilient and has good bounce. The negative we found was its transparent nature, the cloth is so very thin. So, you would have to line the coat and that removes some of the raison d'etre of a fresco. We compared the cloth to Smiths Gilt Edge, same weight, and thought it superior overall, resilient but with more body.

I am going to see if I can make a lighter weight Brisa, though one of the virtues of the cloth is the ability to make it unlined, maximize breath-ability, and yet have great drape to the cloth.

Cheers

Michael

[windchildgmt]

Hi Michael,

It is great to be able to participate in this forum, albeit as part of the smaller feminine presence. I am glad to note that a lighter weight Brisa is being explored, as it would be most useful for the sweltering Middle East climes that my fiancé will soon be departing for.

Regarding the Gilt Edge, what sort of fabric is this? Would it be a fresco as well? If so how is it compared to the Brisa/Finmeresco/Minnis Fresco/Crispaire in terms of weight, drape, hand feel and coolness? Forgive my greenness I'm still trying to wrap my head around the different types of warm weather suiting available.

Also on fresco, does the term refer to the type of open weave or to the yarn used?

Cheers!
Grace

[alden]

Welcome Grace

The Gilt Edge by Smith Woollens is an 8 ozs "tropical worsted" and not an open weave "fresco" style of cloth. If you are going to go very light weight, then a tropical weight worsted is a good way to go and Smith Woollens and H. Lesser carry two excellent ones.

As mentioned above, lightweight open weave frescos are too transparent to be made unlined. A lining fills the pores of the open weave that is intended to allow air to pass through to cool. Hence, the effect is mitigated by the presence of the lining. I find the 3 ply Brisa very comfortable on most European summer days but we may not get the intensity of heat in exists in the Middle East, though desert heat is often "dry" heat. Maybe some of our desert dwellers here can give you some ideas...

Cheers

Michael

[Costi]

I am going to see if I can make a lighter weight Brisa, though one of the virtues of the cloth is the ability to make it unlined, maximize breath-ability, and yet have great drape to the cloth.

Better is often the enemy of good. Brisa excellently proved the point you make in favour of a heavier fresco.
Grace, I'd go for improved breathability over reduced weight. Weight itself does not keep warm - a close weave does. Insulation works well in winter, in summer we need ventilation.