The London Lounge

"No brown in town" says a rule, but here is a melange cloth that looks dark gray in shade or under artificial light, with a hint of a warm, brownish shade. The discreet stripes on a worsted cloth and the cut make this a town suit, with a twist in the colour and button stance.

That looks really nice. How do you like the shoulder seam right on top of the shoulder? On db I don't think I have ever seen a button hole on the lapel down there. It is strange that I have never though of it on db, at least I don't remember thinking of it. On sb I think some are really nice. Those pocket flaps look real nice.

This computer screen makes it look charcoal grey. It would be nice to see it of its real color.

Thanks, Greger. The shoulder is slightly extended, the sleeve seam is not right on top of it (if I understood correctly what you meant).
That buttonhole is a bit of a quirk, yes. Here is where I drew my inspiration from:

What I wanted to do was the 6B stance with two parallel rows and the buttonhole in the lapel made sense to me in this case.
What is it that you noticed about the flaps - the position, the size? It's what my tailor usually does on DB coats.

Costi:

Smart-looking suit! Just the right amount of shirt cuff showing. Whoever made this suit knew what he was
doing. Bravo!

JMB

Very Well Done Costi:

Everything is put together so well, (and yes I even like your shoes ).

How did you have the trousers made? If you could please post some more photo's without the jacket on?

And as for brown not being a town color, well some rules just beg to be broke.

Best Regards,

Cufflink79

Thank you, JMB! I wanted a sober suit that didn't beg for a second look, but, if anyone did trouble to look closer, they would be rewarded.

Cufflink, my shoes finally get some appreciation with you
The trousers are high-waisted with a fishmouth back and an adjustable waistband with buttons (my tailor's special deisgn). As for rules - just what I thought, too

Costi wrote:"No brown in town" says a rule, but here is a melange cloth that looks dark gray in shade or under artificial light, with a hint of a warm, brownish shade.

Very nice suit, Costi. It's interesting how the button stance makes a great effect on the suit. Concerning the no brown in town, that rule has always puzzled me. You find so many examples from the 1910s, 1920s and 1930 of gents wearing brown suits in town. I believe the Duke of Windsor writes that his Edwardian father always wore navy or brown clothes for town wear.

There is a brown suit for every man. The trick is to find just the right shade of brown and the most complementary pattern for the coloring of the particular man.

The opposing point of view about brown goes to the late Charles Revson, who wore nothing but dark blue suits to the office. Of brown he once said: "A man in a brown suit looks like shit!" Go figure.

JMB

Costi wrote:Thanks, Greger. The shoulder is slightly extended, the sleeve seam is not right on top of it (if I understood correctly what you meant).
That buttonhole is a bit of a quirk, yes. Here is where I drew my inspiration from:...
What I wanted to do was the 6B stance with two parallel rows and the buttonhole in the lapel made sense to me in this case.
What is it that you noticed about the flaps - the position, the size? It's what my tailor usually does on DB coats.

The shoulder seam from collar to scye is setting right on top of the shoulder, neither back nor forward. Some tailors put them back a little.

The button method seems to give an piller effect. Not sure it makes you look thinner or not. Bespoke is also for fun.

Maybe the lighting shows the flaps better. For some reason they look just right.

Gruto wrote:

Costi wrote:"No brown in town" says a rule, but here is a melange cloth that looks dark gray in shade or under artificial light, with a hint of a warm, brownish shade.

Very nice suit, Costi. It's interesting how the button stance makes a great effect on the suit. Concerning the no brown in town, that rule has always puzzled me. You find so many examples from the 1910s, 1920s and 1930 of gents wearing brown suits in town. I believe the Duke of Windsor writes that his Edwardian father always wore navy or brown clothes for town wear.

I think some colors have to do with fashions sometimes.

Greger, I see what you mean with the shoulder seam - that's how my tailor always does it. I know the theory of the backward sloping shoulder seam, the bias cut, how the cloth gives along that line - I don't know if it makes a difference, I never tried it. The straight shoulder seam coat is perfectly comfortable.
I agree that there is brown and brown. I couldn't tell you what kind of brown fits me best - this dark one is fine, but also the lighter and more reddish brown of the recent LL Shetland (Derby jacket picked up today, pictures to follow as soon as rain ceases!). There also remarkably many brown overcoats worn in town in AA/Esky illustrations, and neither the cut nor the cloth is country. But then there is town and town, too. And I don't mean towns and cities, but rather town - as in business, and town - as in theatre, concerts, visits, luncheons etc. Why socialize in your business attire when you can't (or, rather, won't) go casual, either?

Great looking suit Costi. And a very good interpretation of the 6 x 3 DB.

I am looking forward to seeing the photos of the LL Shetland. I have seen a few fittings of the cloth and it looked very handsome.

Cheers

Michael

Thanks, Michael!
The LL Shetland is special, I have to get good weather, light and camera to do it justice. Soon, soon!