The London Lounge

I have a length of cashmere that I finally concluded that it would be suitable for a dressing gown. (For the avoidance of doubt, this is the sort of thing I mean by dressing gown: http://www.newandlingwood.co.uk/product.php?id=516#.) Is it typically a project for a tailor or a shirtmaker? Something tells me it's the latter, but some informed views would be much appreciated.

Shredder:

M'thinks you would be better off with a tailor than a shirtmaker for the dressing gown. Here are some suggestions to discuss with the maker:

A) If the cashmere for the gown is navy blue, you could line it in a plain navy blue, say, from Lear Browne & Dunsford. Or you might prefer a dark blue-and-white paisley lining on a sky blue background. Again, from LB&D.

B) Instead of the red piping pictured in the New & Lingwood ad, consider the possibility of using blue-and-white silk cord. This is generically known as passementerie (read: trimming) and it comes in a variety of
thicknesses. For your purposes it is attached to a canvas strip that is sewn between the seams of the cashmere round the collar and continuing nonstop along the lapels and down the leading edges of the gown. Still more on the turnback cuffs and the pockets. By the way, two-color or multi-color silk cord is often used instead of self-welt on upholstered furniture to add interest. And if you want to embellish the belt on your gown, you might using complementary silk cord bows with tassels on the trails. Very Edwardian.

C) What's a dressing gown without a pair of velvet slippers richly embroidered with flora or fauna? Save the
black velvet slippers with bullion-embroidered initials for black-tie suppers at home after the opera.

JMB

Like pajamas, blousons, shirt jackets &co. gowns are essentially a lot of machine work, which is why they are seldom of the competence of a tailor. I have them made by my shirtmaker (unlined!), whether in silk, cotton or wool.

Costi, what you say makes sense. Furthermore, it should not involve any manipulation of the cloth, I would have thought. With cotton or silk, I would not have posed the question, but wondered whether it is still a shirtmaker's job with cashmere or wool in general. Anyway, I'm glad it's sorted!

JMB, it will be unlined because it is a double faced cloth. It will have piping rather than braiding in order to keep it simple in appearance as well as to not add unnecessary weight because the cloth itself weighs enough at 700g. As for the embroidery, our flora requires simple, monochrome embroidery in either silver / white or gold, so richness is not really desirable in the context. And not to worry about initials, as I think the last time I wore my initials on anything was when I was a schoolboy and do not plan to do so in the future. However, your scenario of coming home from the opera with friends for a late dinner and leaving them momentarily to reappear with a different pair of shoes made me smile: I would never hear the end of it if I were to fuss like that. I would surely earn another nickname, as if I don't have enough nicknames already! And, by the way, the gown is actually not for me but for the Brunette.

Thanks for your replies.