The London Lounge

Bespoke Pin Dot Tie In The Making:

Yes, the length, width, knot and construction on this tie were specified in detail - and the pattern is unique and on file for the future but what makes this tie unique and bespoke is the listening and the attention to detail such as the bespoke weaving of the silk.


This tie is not finished but our client who is a LL member gave us permission to share photos and details to date.

Almost a year ago this tie started as a conversation about colors with an interest in a Celtic green pin dot. We were working on a series of English woven pin dots and the combination of the green on midnight blue sounded very nice. Here is a close up of the silk:




The requests included a 7-fold construction and an interest in a rolled edge. I tend to like a folded edge, but our client loves the look of a rolled edge and it came out looking quite elegant after some construction revisions.

Here is a photo of the tie before folding:





The bespoke process is a give and take one that often involves quite a bit of experimenting.

While it is important for a bespoke tie maker to know his fabrics and what typically works best in a technical sense and having a house style is something that cannot humanly be prevented* - the number one most important aspect of bespoke making is the listening.

Rolled edges on untipped ties is an acquired taste but one that I am starting to like very much thanks to the request of our client.

We have another new project that is underway now that is influenced by this client that I will post about later. The winter in Thailand is something like spring elsewhere but this particular new project is on hold due to the cold. I do not understand this but my Noina my wife smiles and tells me to be patient Thai style....


* As a young undergraduate I worked as an intern at a public TV station and spoke to the station manager one day about how wonderful it was that public TV had no bias. She smiled and explained that there is always a bias even if it was what you do not put on the air.

In the same way a bespoke maker may say that they only make what is requested but there will always be some stylistic and technical differences.

David, you are too modest. Of course you are warming to a rolled edge on an untipped tie when the rolled edge is as stunningly executed as the one you picture. I know from experience with your pocket squares that the rolled edges you produce are exquisite, but this is the most perfect I have ever seen. That on the Rubinaccis I've seen is much less meticulous and leaves a kind of fluted, wavy edge--jaunty in its own way but a very particular look. Assuming your folded tie retains this precision, I'd imagine this edge construction could be used on the most sober and gravitas-requiring tie. Please keep us posted with additional photos as the tie progresses.

". . . stunningly executed . . . " an understatement?

I have been viewing this rolled edge for several minutes, absolutely entranced. I understand, now.

I don't think I even know what a rolled edge is:however, David, I want one.

Now what do I do?

Thank you for your kind words.

Ed, they say that a picture is worth a thousand words so perhaps this post will help explain what we are doing with this tie.

As I mentioned earlier the client who ordered this tie is responsible for the design of the silk, tipping and overall construction and should get the credit - he may post later.

The tie was finished and express mailed today along with a 4-fold grenadine made with Fermo Fossati silk.

Please note that I follow the school of clear communication when possible and the four-fold tie is exactly four folds not six. We make 6-fold grenadines on a regular basis and they have the advantage of a very beautiful and natural drape.

This particular grenadine tie was again an evolution of the client's requests. In this case it was not the drape that we were working on but the durability of the grenadine's back seam.

3-fold grenadines have a folded and not folded edge of silk that are joined together in the back. Sometimes the back seam on a 3-fold grenadine can have a small tear over time due to the loose weave of a grenadine.

6-fold grenadines are joined together in the back with two folded edges of silk and do not have this issue. They are also quite a bit more expensive due to the extra silk required and time to do the folds.

Our 4-fold grenadine construction is a happy mix of the 3 and 6-fold grenadine construction styles which will last a long time (as it has two folded edges on the back seam) and have an enhanced drape and a moderate cost.

We are considering phasing out 3-fold grenadine construction in favor of 4-folds.

Back to the 7-fold pin dot:

Here is the tie shortly after the first photo.

We prefer to use a rotary blade as once you are used to it you will have more accuracy. We use scissors for trimming small pieces of silk.

The calculator and rulers are constantly used to check the balance of the tie as it is being made. This is very time consuming and a big reason why luxury ties cannot be mass produced.



Here you see the tie after it has been folded and pinned. Holding the tie up and checking for twisting is important at this point. The fit and feel of a well made tie owes a lot to the balance when folded which must be done slowly or the tie's balance will be slightly off.






Finally, the finished seven-fold tie:

The construction is finished but the tie is not until our client wears it and approves.

David:
The tie looks beautiful and the rolled edge appears to be coming out even better than I had expected.
I look forward to its arrival, along with the grenadine.

For those of you who have not yet dealt with Sam Hober, they are a real treat to work with and do their best to translate what you think you want into what you actually want and into what can be done, and they get you there with great results. They are also not afraid to listen to their customer's ideas (including ones much odder than the tie above) and try something new, with customer service second to none.

Bowties?

Strong recommendation!

David, do you make ascots, pocket squares and long silk scarves?

uppercase wrote:Strong recommendation!

David, do you make ascots, pocket squares and long silk scarves?

David will no doubt give you a more detailed answer, but he makes fantastic neckerchief large squares out of cotton and cotton linen with edges that are unmatched. We have worked on a scarf/ascot design, but I have only managed a crude powerpoint sketch or I would share it. Perhaps when the design is further along it could be posted.

Excellent report, thank you for it and congratulations to you both for such a successful project!

uppercase wrote:Strong recommendation!

David, do you make ascots, pocket squares and long silk scarves?

I have squares, large and small, from Sam Hober. The rolled edges, especially the corners, need to be seen to be believed and appreciated -- they literally put those of others to shame. Their ties are the best I have touched, seen or worn -- no exceptions.

As I implied above, I also have a square from David. In my case, I sent him a piece of marbled silk that had been badly bound and he was gracious enough to remove the old edge and provide one more like what you see here. I suppose you could say it was sort of a CMT commission for a pocket square . . . . I don't know if that is a service he still offers, since it's been awhile, but if one found a unique piece of cloth it would be worth inquiring.

Dopey,

Bowties are not too far off the horizon, and I have not forgotten your diagram.

Please standby for further updates.

UpperCase,

Thank you for your question.

Pocket squares and larger squares with rolled edges finely crafted corners are one of our strong points. We make bespoke squares daily. As in a choice of fabric, length, width, shape and size.

We currently make bespoke scarves from our Thai silk and English Macclesfield prints. We could use many of our other silks also.

We plan to expand our range of fabrics for scarves in the future.

Couch,

Yes, I remember the marbled pocket square. Depending on the fabric we are happy to use a client's fabric to make a pocket square.

Currently we are not setup to do printing in-house but it is something that I would very much like to do for a number of reasons.

Shredder,

Thank you for your kind words.