The London Lounge

Hi,

I already have a dark grey h-bone suit using this particular fabric.

Is it also appropriate for sportjacket? "///\\\" is about 1cm. It will be SB notch lapels/soft shoulder/with pactch pockets.
This is 11oz wool/cashmere fabric. I wouldn't want people think that I am wearing an orphaned jacket.

Thanks.

Gray herringbones may be successfully made into sports coats, but those varieties often have a larger scale. However, even though the cloth itself is not necessarily "sporty", if you style jacket as described (possibly adding a line of handstitching 1 cm from the edge on the lapels and around), it shouldn't be mistaken for an orphaned suit coat.

Dear Fabrics

I am personally not particularly keen on grey sportscoats, probably because I wear a lot of grey suits and like a bit of variation in colour when off-duty.

However, I would argue that the cloth you propose is perfectly suitable for a sportscoat. You may want to follow Costi's pertinent recommendations regarding details not usually considered appropriate for a suit - I would definitely consider patch pockets with or without a flap, maybe you could even go for some hacking jacket or golf jacket details.

One other thought though: I believe there is far too much anxiety about a sportscoat being mistaken for an orphaned suit jacket. 99% of people won't notice or even know the difference, and for most of the remaining 1% good fit and good taste in cloth, cut and detailing will be far more relevant than whether it might be an orphaned suit coat. I probably wouldn't wear a pinstripe jacket without matching trouser, but with, say, a plain navy worsted - or your grey herringbone, for that matter - you can be perfectly well dressed even if it were an orphaned suit coat, provided the other elements mentioned above are given.

dE

Des Esseintes wrote:...with, say, a plain navy worsted - or your grey herringbone, for that matter - you can be perfectly well dressed even if it were an orphaned suit coat, provided the other elements mentioned above are given.

Indeed, the Italians even have a name for it: spezzato (split). Especially when you are away from home and living off a suitcase, it may prove very useful to combine suit coats with slacks (or other suit trousers), within the boundaries of common sense and good taste. A perfect example is using the SB coat of navy blue suit as a blazer with a pair of gray flannel slacks (that may even be part of a gray flannel suit).
I agree with Des Esseintes, grays and blues are best left for town suits, but a gray herringbone sporty coat worn in town for leisure pursuits is not out of place. In general, town-styled clothes in country fabrics are preferable to rustic designs in city cloth. Given the fact your cloth is not too rustic (cashmere blend, small herringbones, lightweight) you need to be quite subtle with the design, so that it won't look like an orphaned suit coat, but not like a country coat cut in city cloth, either. Simple (no flaps) patch pockets, welt breast pocket, 3B roll through the top buttonhole, side vents, simple back (no pleats, yokes, bi-swing), matched horn buttons (and the lapel stitching, if you like it, but not necessarily) should be enough to give the jacket its right character.
You might even wear it as an alternative coat with your suit trousers:

Costi wrote: In general, town-styled clothes in country fabrics are preferable to rustic designs in city cloth.

Very true, and related to the relative formality of the cloth,I guess. I believe this illustrates that the type of cloth comes before the cut when the formality of a garment is determined. In most cases, a more formal cut in a less formal cloth renders the garment less formal, a less formal cut in a more formal cloth just looks inconsistent and out of place - think of a Chesterfield-like coat in cavalry twill (not only acceptable but with a certain charm,in my eyes, not far from a covert coat even) vs a field jacket in a charcoal worsted wool cloth.

Of course there are limits to this all too simple formula: I personally wouldn't like a morning coat in tweed... but I am probably just too narrow-minded! And, of course, patterns play a role in this game, too.

dE

Fabrics

Texture is important in making a gray sportscoat look sporty and not orphaned. I prefer to see some rustic bulk in the way of a cheviot or old styled Harris or Shetland tweed for this coat. If the cashmere is very full as opposed to very flat, you might be able to get away with it.

That reminds me to say that the last time I was in W Bill, they had a roll of heavy old style Harris in a tremendous gray herringbone.

Cheers

Michael