I know you all have been in this situation, stranded in a fitting booth; in front of an inadequate mirror; a tailor fidgeting and chalking all about you; struggling to see the back of the coat; is the coat too long or too short?; questions coming to you “how does it look?” with your response being, “well how does it look?” as if you were in an echo chamber instead of a tailor’s shop…
Bespeaker, observer and tailor together form an elevated and improved form of bespoke.
The observer’s role is to monitor the fit and balance of the garment along with the tailor. Do not confuse this with the condescending concept of “style consulting.”
The bespeaker is his own style maven, his own man. The observer simply responds to his questions with an understanding of that style and the mission of insuring its realization with a detached and objective view.
Most of us understand what good fit is and the extra pair of eyes can make all the difference. But what is balance? Is the lapel too narrow or wide? Is the coat too short or long? Is the shoulder too wide or narrow? Does the coat fall properly and with good balance? Are the trousers too full, or narrow? Is the line elegant or is it choppy?
From a practical point of view, what does this mean? You can give your custom to one of the few shops that provide this kind of bespoke service or you can form your own.
If you have a friend who uses the same tailor, attend your fittings together. Plan out beforehand the fit and balance issues that need to be addressed. Have the observer check the points off your list one by one with the tailor. You form a winning team: golfer, caddy and observer. Oh…and have fun at your fittings.
Cheers
M Alden