Illustration of the week #20: Bentley or DB7?

[alden]

I have had quite a few emails with questions about Polos, camel colored 6x2 DBs and the like so it is an opportune time to explore the differences and characteristics of each model.

Many of you like the chic of the classic Ulster variant Polo but want the sleek lines of the 6 x 2 DB. But borrowing and exchanging elements from one to the other can lead to some confusion.

An Ulster variant (including a Polo) will always appear more boxy when compared to a 6 x 2 DB. The Ulster, with its reversible collar, has a higher button stance, higher closure point and shorter lapels as compared to the low slung 6 x 2 DB.



The lower button point and arching lapels of the 6 x 2 immediately gives length and sweep to the coat. And given that the 6 x 2 is a city coat, it is normally tailored closer to the body and has a more narrow cross over.



These are two very different coats and styles: an imposing Bentley and a sleek Aston Martin.

,

The Polo has a special place in my heart because when winter strikes, I prefer to be covered from the elements.



One is not as protected from the wind and cold in a 6 x 2; its more a show coat, a city, protected by city walls, coat. Other interesting forms of insulation need to be found in winter if you choose this model.



The most common variation on the theme of the Polo is the one worn by Windsor. It’s a bit of a cut and paste mix. The collar of his 6 x 3 DB coat is a standard peak lapel and not a reversible one. This handsome, full peak lapel is matched with patch pockets taken from the Ulster. The result is a hybrid, a sort of sporty Cayenne.



The 6 x 3 DB, peak lapel variation with patch pockets intrigues many of you and my advice is to keep it as a 6 x 3 as this version has the advantage of being buttoned higher in the case of foul weather. A 6 x 2 DB with patch pockets is neither fish nor fowl and the ungainly mix leaves two buttons wandering about the chest with no where to go and nothing to do.

Reserve the 6 x 2 for your sleeker city coats and if you decide to make it up in camelhair or camel colored wool, please do not call it a Polo!



This 8 x 3 peak lapel version should have two show buttons lopped off. As a general rule, if you can avoid show buttons, do so.

So we have discussed three styles of coats that are commonly referred to as Polos. Pick the one that suits your style and usage best.

In the next installment we will take a look at reversible collars and, as you will suspect from this lead in, they are not all sewn equal.

Cheers

M Alden

[Lance]

A wonderful, informative post which clarifes many of my misunderstandings. Seems like there is much interest in the Polo and this post will help us all. Thank you Michael.

[radicaldog]

As ever, a very exhaustive treatment of the issue, Michael. Many thanks.

Windsor's coat appears to be a 6x3 with a fairly hard roll to the second button -- which of course isn't to say that the top button isn't functional (my guess is that it is). Would you say that this style is the most versatile, in the sense that in camel hair cloth it could be quite an appropriate city coat? (The reversible/storm collar is certainly more casual, no?) There are some AA plates showing young men wearing this style of coat with black tie to great effect, in my opinion. Yet a 6x3 peak-lapel polo doesn't look out of place in the country either, especially if the cloth has a fair bit of nap. Depending on the final look of the LL camel hair cloth, I might attempt to (instruct my tailor to) create some kind of all-rounder overcoat.

[alden]

RD

The Ulster with reversible collar is very much city wear. If you choose to have it cut in a dark color cloth, it appears very city.



Or if you are one of the happy few who naturally exude style, you can wear it in any color.



So I would not necessarily say that the 6 x 3 DB is more versatile. It is probably similar to models we are more used to seeing these days from RTW and fashion.

Cheers

M Alden