Savile Row ripped - new book

[Gruto]

I've just finished Richard Anderson's "Bespoke. Savile Row Ripped and Smoothed". It is mostly about his apprenticeship at Huntsman under Colin Hammick and Brian Hall. It's very informative and highly entertaining:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bespoke-Savile- ... 1847374549

[Manself]

I too have just read this book, and I enjoyed it hugely because it offers a great insight into the day to day workings of a Savile Row tailor. However, anyone who loves the English language will have to get over the less than perfect prose, and there are times when it reads more like a press release for Richard Anderson than a biography. That said I'm sure anyone here will enjoy it, even if it makes them think that times have changed on Savile Row, and not necessarily for the better.

One particular point of interest is the various Huntsman clients Anderson mentions; Gianni Agnelli is among them. The picture of Agnelli that forms the basis of the LL Agnelli tweed shows a very strong shoulder, but Anderson describes the Huntsman coat as having a 'natural shoulder'. Any members who have had a bespoke suit from Huntsman might shed some light on this.

Another thing the book makes me wonder is what a Richard Anderson suit is like? Would any members who've used him be willing to share their insights from the point of view of cut, structure, service and over all experience?

[Gruto]

Obviously, the book is a way of promoting Richard Anderson Ltd. Still, I have a feeling that he is quite honest when he describes Huntsman, Hammick, Hall, Boateng's "bespoke couture" etcetera. A thing that surprises me is the lack of teaching at Huntsman. Hall and especially Hammick didn't really like to share their knowledge according to Richard Anderson. There are many amusing anecdotes, also about a Swede(!) named Scholte, who was "arguably the best tailor of the late nineteenth(!) century ... who Robert Parker used to say "made the best shoulder in London.""

[carl browne]

My first commission at Huntsman was a beautiful DB worsted that Richard cut for me before leaving the firm. After that, Terry Haste cut my clothes, and while there was absolutely nothing wrong with them, I don't think they were equal to Richard's work. There's something about the cut and fit. I'm sorry I don't have the sophistication to provide a better explanation. The only obvious thing is that Richard cuts my coats a little longer and perhaps with a little more room, but still with a nice shape. Since Richard was at Huntsman far longer, I suspect his work to be the more authentic.

I stayed with Huntsman until they stopped travelling to Beverly Hills, near where I live. Richard cuts my clothes now, and each of my new outfits is a re-creation of that first Huntsman suit. I'm really pleased. As far as the quality of the clothes themselves, I can't tell the difference from Huntsman.

Brian Lishak comes out to the Beverly Wilshire Hotel several times a year for fittings, and occasionally, when I can make it to London, Richard fits me.

Brian is a delight. His knowledge is encyclopedic, and his enthusiasm is infectious. I always look forward to his visits. He and Richard are both completely committed to the best possible service and product.

By "natural" shoulder, I suspect that Richard means a shoulder that is not roped or pagoda-shaped, which for him are anathema.

[ykh]

The experience I had with Richard was good. It 's bascially the classic Hunstman look with one button front. However, I would prefer higher notch and he likes a more roomy fit that I normally prefer. I also agree that his 'natural' shoulders mean no roping rather than Neapolitan shoulders. However, the linings in my jacket was sewn by machine and not hand-stiched, almost lile those made in HK. This was slightly disappointing.

[alden]

He and Richard are both completely committed to the best possible service and product.

I have always liked RA and his work. Trouble is that with my stout chest and square shoulders, the look doesn't work for me at all. RA also likes coats cut on the long side as opposed to the short side. Nevertheless, the team of Brian Lishak and RA is a good deal of fun.

It would be great to have a sample of it in the LL Derby.

Carl, we are counting on you.

I think we have a Huntsman team on board...

We could use a few soft tailoring teams though. I know we are a minuscule minority but lets hear from some softies.

Cheers

Michael