The London Lounge

From time to time members post questions about where to go for bespoke shirts. I have been mulling this one for a while and am so far uninspired by the usual recommendations (Sean O'Flynn, New & Lingwood, Hilditch & Key etc).

I live in London so have no intention of looking outside SR and the West End. I notice that Huntsman have a bespoke service for shirts. Does any member have experience of their product?

sartorius wrote:From time to time members post questions about where to go for bespoke shirts. I have been mulling this one for a while and am so far uninspired by the usual recommendations (Sean O'Flynn, New & Lingwood, Hilditch & Key etc).

I live in London so have no intention of looking outside SR and the West End. I notice that Huntsman have a bespoke service for shirts. Does any member have experience of their product?

I think they are made by Sean O'Flynn... It was discussed on LL a few months (weeks?) ago.

Frog in Suit

According to his website, Sean O'Flynn trained at Huntsman but I was not aware that they subcontract their bespoke shirtmaking to him. Can anyone verify this or is it just a rumour?

As a general proposition, most bespoke tailors "farm-out" shirts and do not have a bespoke shirtmaker in-house. One tailor told me that he carries shirts as a service, and shirts are not his expertise.

A couple of exceptions that come to mind are Stephen Latchner who is in-house at Norton and Robert Whittaker at Dege.

Good luck.

Can anyone comment on Norton's product?

sartorius wrote:Can anyone comment on Norton's product?

Do not just walk in to Norton's . Norton's is a very odd operation. Stephen Lachter effectively sublets his space there. He has his own clientele and runs his own business. He is excellent, but you really need to contact Stephen directly otherwise you will be judged to be a Norton client, with a significant surcharge for the work then being done by Stephen.

My advice is to call him first, or email him, so there is no misunderstanding. I like him very much. I used Dege for some years, but the customer service is non existent, and they also farm stuff out to the same group of women, common to all the London makers. They have gotten sloppy in my opinion.

Stephen is very good about email: STEPHENLACHTER@aol.com

Thanks. I have actually just been to Norton's (which, reassuringly, was extremely busy!). And it was worthwhile because I got to meet Stephen face to face. His prices appear on a par with other makers. You're right about him running his own business though. His business card says "Stephens & Co, Bespoke Shirtmakers" rather than Norton & Sons.

For those who might be interested, the set up seems to be as follows:

1. Stephen measures and cuts in Saville Row but the making itself is done in a workroom off site (in London, but out east somewhere).

2. The service does appear to be a genuine bespoke service for shirts. They make up a pattern from your measurements taking into account things like posture and build. From my conversation this afternoon the client seems to have absolute flexibility over every aspect of the shirt, including button placement, collar dimensions and fit.

3. There is no minimum order but they will include a small surcharge for the pattern if you only order one shirt.

4. Lead time is 3 weeks from measuring to first fitting and a further 3 weeks from then until completion.

5. Stephen was wearing one of his own shirts (in fact he told me that he hasn't worn a shirt from anywhere else for 30 years). It looked good.

Thanks for the feedback on Dege. I'd also still be interested to know whether Sean O'Flynn is indeed the maker at Huntsman.

sartorius wrote: I'd also still be interested to know whether Sean O'Flynn is indeed the maker at Huntsman.

He is. WHen I first went in for a measurement, he was delayed because of a visit to Huntsman around the corner.

My experience with Dege is common to others on the board.

No idea about Stephen Lachter's work-- he is coming to NYC next month and I've tried to hook up in London but have been otherwise engaged.

Sartorius:

Glad it seems to be working out for you. I will see Stephen in NY next month, and then again in London in May. Hopefully I will then be able to take possession of the first version of my blousson and Saharienne. He was the only shirtmaker who was interested in doing these two models. The down side is that it will have taken 4 or 5 visits, but I will take that as a positive sign.

P.S. When I saw Stephen in London last June, he immediately identified my (Bugelli) shirt as Italian. He has a very good eye.

Very interesting that there was activity in Norton's. It is a very flawed business model, in my opinion, but then I don't have an M.B.A. like the young owner.

tteplitzmd wrote: Very interesting that there was activity in Norton's. It is a very flawed business model, in my opinion, but then I don't have an M.B.A. like the young owner.

What, if I may ask, is their business model and in what way does it differ from that followed by other SR houses?

Frog in Suit

You have an owner/impressario who is not a tailor/cutter/stylist. The pricing is ridiculous. In effect, the owner bought the Norton name. Stephen Lachter and John Kent have their own business within that address. The demise and resurrection of Norton is well chronicled elsewhere. Be very careful if you just walk in.

tteplitzmd wrote:You have an owner/impressario who is not a tailor/cutter/stylist. The pricing is ridiculous. In effect, the owner bought the Norton name. Stephen Lachter and John Kent have their own business within that address. The demise and resurrection of Norton is well chronicled elsewhere. Be very careful if you just walk in.

Thank you for the response and for the warning. I have no intention of going, as I am satisfied with my current tailors (Meyer & Mortimer) and see no reason to change.

I am not certain it is so rare to have a proprietor who is not a "practical man", i.e., a trained cutter or tailor; of course, in most cases, the owner has grown up in the businesss, so to speak. The Messrs Cundey père & fils, at Poole's, who I believe are not cutters, would be an example. There are also quite a few instances of firms taking in sub-tenants, to help with the rent.

Norton, on their web site, mention John Kent as their cutter. Does it mean in effect that he wears two hats, that of Norton's cutter, and his own, independent, one? That sounds like a built-in conflict of interest. Would the pricing be different as well, whether one went to J.K. directly or through Norton?

Frog in Suit

It sounds as if Stephen has quite a good reputation and people on here that are using him are pleased.

Has anyone used Sean and what is the prevailing view on his work? Is he recommended?

Curiously, has anyone happened to try Richard Anderson's for bespoke shirts? I know that they also outsource to a shirtmaker but not sure who.

Thanks!

alebrady wrote:It sounds as if Stephen has quite a good reputation and people on here that are using him are pleased.

Has anyone used Sean and what is the prevailing view on his work? Is he recommended?

Curiously, has anyone happened to try Richard Anderson's for bespoke shirts? I know that they also outsource to a shirtmaker but not sure who.

Thanks!

I have used Sean O'Flynn for twenty (?) years, in person when he was running N & L's bespoke shirtmaking, then via N & L's Michael Blackwell . I have also seen him more recently since he now "lives" on my tailor's premises (Meyer & Mortimer). I am very hapy with my shirts and have always found him very engaged in, and enthusiastic about, his work, but I have never used another bespoke shirtmaker, so cannot compare.

Frog in Suit

Frog in Suit wrote:Norton, on their web site, mention John Kent as their cutter. Does it mean in effect that he wears two hats, that of Norton's cutter, and his own, independent, one? That sounds like a built-in conflict of interest. Would the pricing be different as well, whether one went to J.K. directly or through Norton?

Norton's head cutter at the moment is David Ward. He used to work at Poole's. His other claim to fame is acting in a well-known BBC documentary.

John Kent is "slowly recovering", according to Mr Lachter's words.

Andrey